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Thread: Rear Shock Mount Access Z3 Coupes without removing trim - sources

  1. #1
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    Rear Shock Mount Access Z3 Coupes without removing trim - sources

    Don't know if it applies to roadsters.

    Use the size whole of your choice and drill using the bit of your choice from Harbor Freight 19.99 hole saw kit.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piec...set-68115.html

    I used 3-1/2 because I have big hands.

    White and black plastic hole plugs available in various sizes from
    http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com
    search on site using "hole plug" will lead to page.

    Make sure there is a plug available for the size hole before drilling.

    Center of shock on mine centered 2" from side of car and 3 inches from the front plastic cover/screen assembly.

    A more accurate measurement is shown below = 2-1/16 from the side and 2-3/4 from the front.

    shock location Z3.JPG
    Last edited by CMM3; 05-12-2014 at 01:56 PM.

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    I WOULD DEARLY LOVE TO STRANGLE THE LAZYASSFUCKINGMORON THAT MUTILATED THE CARPETED SIDE PANELS IN MY COUPE!

    DEARLY LOVE!!

    Dan, PLEASE don't promote this sort of Coupe mutilation; it's not that big a deal to access the shocks in the Coupe, and I can have the trim out/in in about one (1) hour.

    Don't do it people, a current/future Coupe owner will want to strangle you for it

  3. #3
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    I just replaced mine, once you understand how it all comes out, it shouldn't take but 45 minutes tops to cleanly access your shock towers.

    1999 z3 coupe 2.8L Daily
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    Randy, I was considering cuttinga tiny 7mm hole (to allow your shock tool to pass through) and possibly finding a plastic cap to make it appear more "factory". Would you recommend this to easily access rear shocks for adjustment purposes?

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    I did the previously Randy approved method of "drilling" the plastic backing from the carpets and "X"ing the carpet with a razor blade to allow the Stayger tool to pass through and still look 95% factory, no caps needed.

    Requires an empty RSM and a small paint pen or similiar to mark the exact location of where the shock will be at.
    Last edited by robb1887; 05-12-2014 at 03:38 PM.

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    Is it appropriate for Coupe owners to cut out the carpet if they put those cool "M" strut hats over the holes?



    Or is that still considered to be the devil's work?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackxs View Post
    Is it appropriate for Coupe owners to cut out the carpet if they put those cool "M" strut hats over the holes?

    Or is that still considered to be the devil's work?

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    Quote Originally Posted by robb1887 View Post
    I did the previously Randy approved method of "drilling" the plastic backing from the carpets and "X"ing the carpet with a razor blade to allow the Stayger tool to pass through and still look 95% factory, no caps needed.

    Requires an empty RSM and a small paint pen or similiar to mark the exact location of where the shock will be at.
    This. This is the most stock appearing, and have actually had Coupe guys tell they couldn't find the hole after they got their cars back!

    It was there

    I can post up some pictures later__currently in the shop with iffy wifi__that details the process.

    Let me put it to you this way: if anyone wants to trade me a pair of black Coupe carpeted panels that haven't yet been hacked up, I'll send you mine in return! I'll even pay shipping in both directions.

    I was hoping a local guy had a set, but turned out he must've already sold them, so I'll be ordering a pair real soon
    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 05-12-2014 at 06:24 PM.

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    in for pics!

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    Please note that this isn't a new development; I've been campaigning to save the carpeted panels for quite a while now.

    These were brand new panels, to replace the ones that the car's owner had cut rectangle holes it, and hated himself afterwards; claimed that it made him sick to look at what he'd done...

















    As Robb says, using an old shock mount, hold it in position and push a China Marker/grease pencil up through the stem hole to mark the underside of the panel. I use Blair holesaws to cut through the plastic, stopping short of going into the carpeted surface. Once you peel off the circular "slug" take an X-Acto knife, or similar and make an X-cut to pass the (newly available again) Stygar-style Koni tool. Certain other brands of shocks__name escapes me__use an Allen wrench for adjustment, and that can be an even smaller hole.





















    With a wisk broom, and a dental pick, if necessary, I promise that you can render the holes invisible, passing scrutiny in any concours judging!



    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 05-13-2014 at 01:24 AM.

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    Awesome as always Randy, thanks for this!

    -Jovan

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    I had no idea this was a sensitive subject, with both interior and exterior mods it never occurred to me the rear trim is worth keeping intact. Hope the goods of originality forgive me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CMM3 View Post
    I had no idea this was a sensitive subject, with both interior and exterior mods it never occurred to me the rear trim is worth keeping intact. Hope the goods of originality forgive me.
    Well, after I got over the initial shock (brrrrr!!) I remembered exactly what panels you were talking about__the ones that *I* put 3" holes in THE SIDE OF MYSELF!

    Dan's Coupe has a true coil-over shock rear suspension; worth a look if you have some idle time (>800 pics): http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/DC-Coupe















    Genuine c/o setup @ rear:



    Anyone ever use a holesaw like this...



    ... to get a couple of pieces like these?





    It was a BIG job!

  14. #14
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    was this the same coupe at the Glenn a number of weeks back? If so, my bud with his silver S54 coupe was also at that event, 2 coupes, 1 event. awesome!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticklemejoviemo View Post
    was this the same coupe at the Glenn a number of weeks back? If so, my bud with his silver S54 coupe was also at that event, 2 coupes, 1 event. awesome!
    Nope it wasn't me, mine is white with a black bumper, before I get flamed for the black bumper it's only plastic-dipped to keep the paint from getting destroyed on the track and comes right off...LOL, the only coupe sporting this look.

    I do plan on getting to the Glen this year sometime.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Well, after I got over the initial shock (brrrrr!!) I remembered exactly what panels you were talking about__the ones that *I* put 3" holes in THE SIDE OF MYSELF!

    Dan's Coupe has a true coil-over shock rear suspension; worth a look if you have some idle time (>800 pics):
    It was a BIG job!
    And now the panels have 3 - 1/2 inch holes in the top to match, but with the plugs it still looks er, kind of stock.

    Most importantly.... I have been forgiven by the Grand Poo-Bah of BMW's himself for my sacrilegious act, I may still enter the land of classic BMW's and race tracks, and now feel inner peace once more.
    Thank you Randy :-)
    Last edited by CMM3; 05-13-2014 at 10:05 AM.

  16. #16
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    I hate to bump such an old thread but maybe someone else might have the same issue.

    Does anyone have measurements for the "Randy Forbes" approved method?

    I initially had no intention of drilling holes in mine but I'm reconsidering. Since installing coil overs, I have thrown out the old rear shocks and mounts; I really don't want to disassemble and reassemble my rear shocks to use the current mounts to mark my holes. I have the TC Kline tool, is that the same size as the Ron Styger tool?

    Thank you guys in advanced.

    db
    [oo]|[||][||]|[oo]
    '95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
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  17. #17
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    My whole rear interior is out right now as I installed cheapo KSport coil overs temporarily (spare set I had). Headed out to Dorkfest in a week, and I was planning to leave most of the rear interior out for the trip. One, to gain a crap ton of storage space, and two, to keep the mounts exposed for when I install rogue RSMs and a different coil over set.

    I've also been contemplating cutting holes....originality/collector value be dammed.

    Maybe if we get enough people on board, the value of 'RSM hole cut' cars will out pace unmolested cars.....ha! Yea right.
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  18. #18
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    I plan on cutting mine and putting little fabric covers in place. I parted an M6 awhile ago with a design like this and plan to replicate it on these cars. Basically a circle with little tabs underneath to keep it place with friction (or velcro...). Either that or do it once and install the RSM's that can be serviced from underneath the car...

  19. #19
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    good job randy but honestly guys...the first time it might take you up to max 1h to remove all needed parts to access the struts, but then its a 30min job. If you dont trust your mechanic just remove it yourself and bring him the car "naked" as I did.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chamberlin View Post
    My whole rear interior is out right now as I installed cheapo KSport coil overs temporarily (spare set I had). Headed out to Dorkfest in a week, and I was planning to leave most of the rear interior out for the trip. One, to gain a crap ton of storage space, and two, to keep the mounts exposed for when I install rogue RSMs and a different coil over set.

    I've also been contemplating cutting holes....originality/collector value be dammed.

    Maybe if we get enough people on board, the value of 'RSM hole cut' cars will out pace unmolested cars.....ha! Yea right.
    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    I plan on cutting mine and putting little fabric covers in place. I parted an M6 awhile ago with a design like this and plan to replicate it on these cars. Basically a circle with little tabs underneath to keep it place with friction (or velcro...). Either that or do it once and install the RSM's that can be serviced from underneath the car...
    You're hurting me

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    You're hurting me
    Randy, by chance do you have measurements for cutting access holes your way, without using an old RSM?

    I'm not crazy about the idea of cutting anything, trying to restore the interior the best I can. I just repaired/rebuilt the mounting tabs on the rear dividers over the past couple of weeks with fiber glass and painted it to match. Not to mention the JB weld I used to fix the glovebox mounts. Previous owner was a little rough on the interior parts, crushing some of the mounting tabs and stripping almost every screw head (I ended up just ordering all new mounting hardware for most of the interior).

    I just need access for track side adjustments. I drive to the track, so I'd like to keep my trunk in for storage.

    db
    [oo]|[||][||]|[oo]
    '95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
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  22. #22
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    I don't have measurements, as I mark each set as I go.

    It took me a while, but I finally ordered a new set of panels for my own Coupe, and marked/drilled those while I had someone else's Coupe apart for new shocks. If you had asked me before I got the time to put them in my own car__a wide window of opportunity__I might've been able to provide dimensions, but they're fitted now.

    I do however, have the original mutilated pair of panels, for anyone that prefers that look

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    I don't have measurements, as I mark each set as I go. It took me a while, but I finally ordered a new set of panels for my own Coupe, and marked/drilled those while I had someone else's Coupe apart for new shocks. If you had asked me before I got the time to put them in my own car__a wide window of opportunity__I might've been able to provide dimensions, but they're fitted now. I do however, have the original mutilated pair of panels, for anyone that prefers that look
    :/

    I made the decision a couple nights ago. How far down does the tool have to go in before it reaches the shock? I'm thinking if I can somehow mill a slot in a grease pencil and secure it to the shock, I can possibly install the carpets and get my marks. I just need to know how short the pencil has to be.

    db
    [oo]|[||][||]|[oo]
    '95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
    (<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
    '00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)

  24. #24
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    Sorry to revive this thread, new member here. Is it possible to measure the hole from the outside(carpeted side) off a known datum, like some interior trim piece? THe coupe I just bought has adjustable dampers, and I would like to access the tops without having to remove the panels.

    I've read lots of threads and have learned Randy Forbes has the best advice!

    Quote Originally Posted by ///Mpmp1025 View Post
    :/

    I made the decision a couple nights ago. How far down does the tool have to go in before it reaches the shock? I'm thinking if I can somehow mill a slot in a grease pencil and secure it to the shock, I can possibly install the carpets and get my marks. I just need to know how short the pencil has to be.

    db

  25. #25
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    Up. I hate removing trim, it does not bother me other than the panels in the B-pillar, and near seatbelts. Those drive me crazy. So has anyone done any tasteful mods that would give easy access to whole rear mount but look oemish and that would keep noise out.

    My trunk is already 2/3:rds carbon so I am up for good ideas and solutions.


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