I blame all of you for this . . . .

[JimLev]

Hope you have a big vise that is bolted to a sturdy work bench and a 3/4” drive breaker bar. 1/2” breaker bars are known to break.
That last 360º rotation is a bitch unless you have a long pipe on the breaker bar.
If you already have the seals and change your mind, send me the vanos and seals, $240.

[spencerhutc]

Waiting for parts so I did some cleaning of the engine bay. The amount of grim that was on this thing was stunning. I really hope the lower temp thermostat keeps the new gaskets from cooking and causing all the leaks. Doing my best to replace every seal and o-ring I see.
KIMG20250407_190408327.jpgKIMG20250407_190405873.jpgKIMG20250407_190359655.jpg

[R Shaffner]

Unfortunately, more frequent oil leaks are one of the prices we have to pay to own a BMW from this period. I've stopped cussing and just shrug and replace gaskets as I go.

One of the issues you'll discover is that the cam cover nuts and studs are designed with stops, so they can't squeeze the gaskets more than a set amount. In my experience that works fine when the gaskets are new, but not as they age.

I bring that up now because too often some uninitiated owners will try to keep turning them down tighter (as one usually can on most cars), but that will strip the treads with this design. If (or I should say when) you run into that the best way to clamp the gasket a bit tighter is to add a second washer to the cam cover nuts.

Some have also used cupped belleville washers to provide a little spring force. They might also help keep the nuts from backing off over time, which seems to happen more easily when the gaskets shrink and become less flexible.

[spencerhutc]

Unfortunately, more frequent oil leaks are one of the prices we have to pay to own a BMW from this period. I've stopped cussing and just shrug and replace gaskets as I go.

One of the issues you'll discover is that the cam cover nuts and studs are designed with stops, so they can't squeeze the gaskets more than a set amount. In my experience that works fine when the gaskets are new, but not as they age.

I bring that up now because too often some uninitiated owners will try to keep turning them down tighter (as one usually can on most cars), but that will strip the treads with this design. If (or I should say when) you run into that the best way to clamp the gasket a bit tighter is to add a second washer to the cam cover nuts.

Some have also used cupped belleville washers to provide a little spring force. They might also help keep the nuts from backing off over time, which seems to happen more easily when the gaskets shrink and become less flexible.

Good tips there! Thank you!

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Unfortunately, more frequent oil leaks are one of the prices we have to pay to own a BMW from this period. I've stopped cussing and just shrug and replace gaskets as I go.

One of the issues you'll discover is that the cam cover nuts and studs are designed with stops, so they can't squeeze the gaskets more than a set amount. In my experience that works fine when the gaskets are new, but not as they age.

I bring that up now because too often some uninitiated owners will try to keep turning them down tighter (as one usually can on most cars), but that will strip the treads with this design. If (or I should say when) you run into that the best way to clamp the gasket a bit tighter is to add a second washer to the cam cover nuts.

Some have also used cupped belleville washers to provide a little spring force. They might also help keep the nuts from backing off over time, which seems to happen more easily when the gaskets shrink and become less flexible.

Uhhh….. That is why you are supposed to replace the gaskets as they age!

[spencerhutc]

Is using Hylomar on some of the gaskets considered a good idea on this engine?

[R Shaffner]

I think the only place BMW specifically recommends it (or similar) is along thee half-moons at the back of the cam cover gaskets. But I've used it (and similar) sparingly in other places too, with no ill effects.

[spencerhutc]

I think the only place BMW specifically recommends it (or similar) is along thee half-moons at the back of the cam cover gaskets. But I've used it (and similar) sparingly in other places too, with no ill effects.

Okay. I was thinking that replacing gaskets and putting in the lower temp thermostat should keep the leaks at bay for a while. Wasn't sure if folks were doing anything above that to keep the drip, drip under control.

[spencerhutc]

Pulled the drivers seat out. Holy cow that was a steep learning curve coming from the more normal 2 or 4 bolts and an electrical connector type of cars. That the seat was not working properly did not help. Ended up pulling both the little motors out of the seat, the ones with the sheathed cables sticking out each end. Had to shorten 3 of the 4 cables. I did the melt, remove the end and re-melt and re-install method since it seemed to be the best way to do it.
I checked a drill up to each cable and ran them all the way down/up whatever to even everything up before reassembly.
I'm going to clean the seats up and replace some of the plastic I broke before I put it back.

Oh, what & where do you lube on these seats while they are out. Mine was moving pretty slow back and forth . . . so I was going to lube the bottom tracks with white lithum grease.

[spencerhutc]

KIMG20250416_080856672.jpg
This is what the upper timing chain guides looked like after what I was told was 190k

[R Shaffner]

Looks about right to me. (And yes, I'd prob put a little white grease on the seat mechanism.)

[spencerhutc]

Looks about right to me. (And yes, I'd prob put a little white grease on the seat mechanism.)

Where?

[R Shaffner]

I can't remember the rails on the e39, specifically. Been a while. But I know I've had seats out and cleaned the rails. Sometimes I've added lube when it seemed they needed it. Sometimes I haven't. (Too little lube is better than too much, in any location where dirt collects.)

[spencerhutc]

Making progress. Engine is mostly back together. Of course I figured out I'm missing more parts.

Is there a reliable way to check the engine mounts to see if they are bad? I see a few cracks on the LHS mount, the RHS looks new.

The transmission fluid lines going into the coolant to oil cooler refuse to come off the cooler. One of the plastic release mechanisms is missing / broken. I'll go buy the little release tool today.
How prone to leaking are these lines? Should I just clean them up and leave them alone?
The broken rear cover is finally replaced. Also did the rear main seal since it came in the box of free parts with the car.KIMG20250504_175729240.jpg
It's pretty much back together at this point. I'm missing the pipe that goes from the water pump to the transmission cooler. I think I can still get the engine stabed into the car without that and put it on when it showes up.
Before KIMG20250330_141814722.jpg
After KIMG20250504_175751981.jpg

Almost did not replace the injector o-rings, glad I did they were hard as a rock. Also cleaned and re-sealed everything else on the intake manifold.

[spencerhutc]

Goteverything back together and fired it up for the first time. Noleaks, everything looks good. Runs nice and smooth.

Tragedystruck in the form of the transmission not working. Fresh fluid andfilter. Shifter works as expected, but nothing happens. No forward orreverse gears.


Anyoneever have this happen?


Gota place for me to start troubleshooting?

[spencerhutc]

Change of plans, this car is getting a manual transmission swap. Picking up the transmission and misc parts on Saturday. Let the chaos begin.

[spencerhutc]

Change of plans, this car is getting a manual transmission swap. Picking up the transmission and misc parts on Saturday. Let the chaos begin.

Picked up the manual transmission and a bunch of miscellaneous parts. Of course now I have an order going with FCP Euro to get all the little stuff I'm missing and stuff that should be replaced.

Sent from my E7200 using Tapatalk

[SinceTheHire]

May I ask how you procured your transmission, etc?

[R Shaffner]

Wow. Nothing like a little scope creep. But I agree - this engine is great with a manual.

Most of us manual owners with the M62TU prefer the M62 or M60 intake manifold. (Makes it run much better above 4,500 rpm.) You can still find used ones for not much.

[R Shaffner]

Plus, the single most important thing you can do to get better acceleration in that car (other than boost or NOS) is to keep the auto differential with the manual.

[spencerhutc]

May I ask how you procured your transmission, etc?

I R&R'ed the auto twice and was very frustraed since it did not work. I hit F*** it and moved on to the '07 530xi Wagon.
The very next day I opened up Farcebook market place and there is a guy 68 miles away with the majority of the parts who had been trying to sell it for $1500 for months. I got it all for $1000. The other misc parts from FCPEuro were ~$450.

- - - Updated - - -

Cool man. Thanks for the tip!

Wow. Nothing like a little scope creep. But I agree - this engine is great with a manual.

Most of us manual owners with the M62TU prefer the M62 or M60 intake manifold. (Makes it run much better above 4,500 rpm.) You can still find used ones for not much.

[spencerhutc]

After I cleaned it all a bit. Drive shaft is off to the side.
KIMG20250629_214356502.jpg

[SinceTheHire]

The very next day I opened up Farcebook market place and there is a guy 68 miles away with the majority of the parts who had been trying to sell it for $1500 for months. I got it all for $1000. The other misc parts from FCPEuro were ~$450.

I suppose the answer is "experience", but how do you evaluate the condition of a transmission, or even trust the mileage?

[spencerhutc]

I suppose the answer is "experience", but how do you evaluate the condition of a transmission, or even trust the mileage?

Pull the case apart and check it.
Take it to a transmission shop if you know nothing about them.
Alternate cheat/cheap method, drain and check the fluid for metal bits.
Say a prayer? Make sure you pray to the transmission god and not the rain god.