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Thread: How to bypass your EWS II.

  1. #76
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    I'm going to revisit the Bentley tonight out of curiousity on this subject. I can't prove myself anything right now since my car was totaled and I have since parted it out. Hopefully I will have another car very soon where my motor is going in and then I can prove myself one way or another.

    Again if you look at the diagrams the OP made and the Bentley it seems clear cut to me it should work.

  2. #77
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    What do you think you'll find in the Bentley?

    There is a wire from the EWS to the DME. That wire transmits an encoded message containing an individual serial number (ISN, not SIN) from the EWS box to the DME. This is generated by the EWS box upon detection of a valid key signal. If this signal is not present, the car won't start. If the serial numbers don't match, the car won't start. There is no bypass for this, outside of the software running inside the ECU.

    By "the car won't start" I mean that the starter may turn (if you have bypassed the EWS box as the first post shows), but the ECU will not allow the car to run.
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  3. #78
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    Right, from the EWS the signal goes to Pin 18 of the DME.

    Looking closer at the DME it does look like both the ignition and fuel injection is turned on, off, or at a variable rate (fuel supply). That is, each point to the coils will either be open, shunted to gound, or variably controlled at x freq. So I do see now where it won't matter if the EWS relay is bypassed as the OP stated.

    I now agree with you that the motor will not start without a reflash to match keys and the DME, etc.

    I was thinking in the beginning this is how it should be setup, but I was hoping otherwise. Not that I need to mention this, but if someone really wants your car they will flat bed it to their chop shop. Though I'm just looking ahead to using a different DME and could car less if my EWS is working or not as long as the car will start. Looks like I will have to play along in order to do so.
    Last edited by Brent 930; 06-23-2009 at 05:40 AM.

  4. #79
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    Can we please lock this post?
    It is so misleading and could get someone in trouble frying their DME if they don't read all the way through.
    The original post is not correct, and subsequent discussions always lead back to "oh, you're right it can't work"
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Mods
    Can we please lock this post?
    It is so misleading and could get someone in trouble frying their DME if they don't read all the way through.
    The original post is not correct, and subsequent discussions always lead back to "oh, you're right it can't work"
    I'm not sure it really needs to be locked, but someone should edit the first post to reflect it's true intent. The post describes how to bypass the EWS starter lockout and how to power the ECU, but this is only useful to people who are installing standalone ECUs, as the stock ECU will prevent the car from running if it does not get a correct signal from the EWS.
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  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Mods
    Can we please lock this post?
    It is so misleading and could get someone in trouble frying their DME if they don't read all the way through.
    The original post is not correct, and subsequent discussions always lead back to "oh, you're right it can't work"
    The OP is correct for the purpose like Matt said.

    You obviously don't know much about electronics nor can you read a schematic, so what makes you think someone is going to "fry their DME?"

    I think it was a good discussion looking at all the angles. Someone who does a search and reads thru this thread will be knowledgeable of what is going on.

    I guess locking the thread doesn't hurt any because it's pretty much over and done with.

  7. #82
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    Brent, you are the one lacking diagram reading skills. And apparently lacking "how ECUs work skills" as well. So, take it easy on the guy who got it right, please.

    I don't care what happens to this thread, but anyone who reads your posts will be less knowledgeable about what's going on.
    No PMs. Email through forum please.

  8. #83
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    ^Oh OK Master. So what is your background that says you know what's going on? I think your understanding has skewed this whole thing. I will be waiting for your answer. So who do you think got it right? I'm going to have a field day with you.
    Last edited by Brent 930; 06-28-2009 at 07:05 AM.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    The OP is correct for the purpose like Matt said.

    You obviously don't know much about electronics nor can you read a schematic, so what makes you think someone is going to "fry their DME?"

    I think it was a good discussion looking at all the angles. Someone who does a search and reads thru this thread will be knowledgeable of what is going on.

    I guess locking the thread doesn't hurt any because it's pretty much over and done with.
    Bad day? I can jump to conclusions as quick as you.

    This thread leads the reader to believe you can eliminate EWS with a few simple wire changes. You can not with out a flash. It is misleading and yes, someone with limited knowledge could find themselves in a world of hurt trying to follow a set of instructions that do not work. The only way to eliminate EWS is to flash the DME. Period. Even after the flash, you need to splice 2 wires together. Since I no longer have that set up, I can not go look to tell you what the two wires are. Bottom line, no EWS signal to the DME, no DME control of spark or fuel. Stop trying to make this thread out to be anything more than it is . Completely useless, misleading, and potentially harmful to the system electronics if some inadvertently jumps a wrong wire while attempting a procedure that does not work.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  10. #85
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    I'm not jumping at anything. I took a look, then a harder look, and you can see that from my posts. Do you even know what is going on and how the EWS II works?

    As for the diagrams in the OP they're 100% correct.

    Again, I agree that info will not defeat the EWS II.

    I hope with the added posts this thread won't be useless.

  11. #86
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    Talking Definative quote :

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt View Post

    There is a wire from the EWS to the DME. That wire transmits an encoded message containing an individual serial number (ISN, not SIN) from the EWS box to the DME. This is generated by the EWS box upon detection of a valid key signal. If this signal is not present, the car won't start. If the serial numbers don't match, the car won't start. There is no bypass for this, outside of the software running inside the ECU.

    By "the car won't start" I mean that the starter may turn (if you have bypassed the EWS box as the first post shows), but the ECU will not allow the car to run.
    As a fully trained and qualified BMW Technician, with almost 20 years expierience, I would like to support Matt in relation to the above statement...
    (Although I am currently waiting for a know it all chav on a UK forum to prove me wrong!)

  12. #87
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    Agreed. Yes, the car will crank, yes, the coils will fire. No the car will not get fuel. Why? Because the ECU is not telling the injectors to fire, because it doesn't have a valid EWS signal.
    2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
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  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley68 View Post
    When EWS is flashed off on the DME, you can use the DME for any obd II car, BUT, you still have to have your chipped to key to run it. The chip still sends a code to the ews module to just tell the dme to start, though it doesn't need to have the code at the DME anymore to start.

    FLASHING EWS II off the OBD II ECU WILL NOT GET RID OF THE EWS MODULE or Chip/key. You still have to have a chip coded to the EWS Module or the car won't start. You would still have to bypass this module if you wanted to run without the chip.

    Trust me, I've tried.
    I bought a 95 M3 engine, and installed it in an E21, same sintoms. Is there a solution you found? or i will have to installed a Haltech and deal with all the trouble of mapping it?

    May be thats why the guys at HPF install a new ECU?

    And if the only way is to Flash it, where do you flash it? and will still work without the original key?

    I see a haltech pro 2000 comming my way and a lot of trouble and time on making it to work properly. Shit!!!!!!!!!! happens!!!!!!

    i was thinking on buying a E46 M3 engine, but know unless i have a donor car, forget it!!!!!
    Last edited by jrmbjesus3333; 11-25-2009 at 05:12 PM.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmbjesus3333 View Post
    I bought a 95 M3 engine, and installed it in an E21, same sintoms. Is there a solution you found? or i will have to installed a Haltech and deal with all the trouble of mapping it?

    May be thats why the guys at HPF install a new ECU?

    And if the only way is to Flash it, where do you flash it? and will still work without the original key?

    I see a haltech pro 2000 comming my way and a lot of trouble and time on making it to work properly. Shit!!!!!!!!!! happens!!!!!!

    i was thinking on buying a E46 M3 engine, but know unless i have a donor car, forget it!!!!!
    Yes it can be completely disabled with a flash. Bimmerworld and Turner both do the service. I think they jobber it but as long as the result is what you need...You send the ECU to them. They flash and return. I had it done on the Mcoupe. There is one wire that must be spliced. They will tell you which one. Once done, I used a on off switch and push button for starter. No key to mess with. Or leave the key lock in place for security and switching. ECU just won't read the chip and could be hot wired very quickly.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  15. #90
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    On a 95 M3 motor, you don't need a flash, you just need an EWS delete chip.
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    I'm not jumping at anything. I took a look, then a harder look, and you can see that from my posts. Do you even know what is going on and how the EWS II works?

    As for the diagrams in the OP they're 100% correct.

    Again, I agree that info will not defeat the EWS II.

    I hope with the added posts this thread won't be useless.
    And you would have never took that "harder look" unless MATT didnt keep trying to help you understand why it doesnt work. But dont get all defensive towards MATT b/c you was wrong and he was right.

    Yes the informative is correct with stand alones but most people have this problem with stock ECU. If they didnt read the whole thread like some do the the first post would misguide them and maybe cause more problems than they begin with. Thats why MATT said either close/lock the thread or edited the OP with informative that wont mislead others (unlike your posts, brent930)
    Last edited by HKWe36; 01-11-2010 at 08:41 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonesmechanical View Post
    It is different, it is a bit controversial, but if you know your stuff, it doesn't look cheap. "riceier" things happen much more often around here with german parts..

  17. #92
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    i wanna do this as well since i only have one key that has the chip and the other is just for the doors. is there an alternative to DEI 555B Transponder ? i found a couple on ebay but they dont ship to canada. did any one have any luck with OP's method ?

  18. #93
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    Bmw 525 tds ews -94/95 e34

    How i can bypass EWS on Diesel engine? i got engine starting but fuel pump is not working.. how i get power to the fuel pump? plz i really need car right now and i dont have time to get new EWS module or any parts... if someone nows color of the wire to give fuel pump power.. plz mail me

    joona.leskinen1989@gmail.com


  19. #94
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    okay, i learned alot from reading this thread. but its like...the conversation keeps going in circles. lol

    here's my dilemma, 96 318ic, (ews2, obd2).
    i had the ghetto-rig where the taped my chipped key into my antenna, and hid it behind my steering column. (i have a swapped column thats non-ews.) everything was fine and dandy, and one day the car wouldnt start. i tinkered with it, couldnt figure it out.

    i left it alone for several days, tried it again, and it started like nothing was ever wrong.

    then i tried it the day after that, and it didnt start again. it seems like it starts when it wants to...so i figured it was my key. paid fifty bucks for a new key from the bimmerdealer, and the car started right up. (after sitting for several days again.)

    awesome, right? wrong. because THE NEXT DAY, IT DIDNT START AGAIN. UHGGG.
    left it alone for a few more days, came back, AND IT STARTED WITH THE NEW KEY. WTF!!!!

    according to this thread, i didnt 'desensitize' my key by leaving it taped to my antenna. (thats like the same thing the dei555b does, right?)
    but it seems like everything was fine with BOTH keys until i taped them to the antenna.

    ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????
    Last edited by darec318; 04-28-2010 at 01:10 PM.

  20. #95
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    this is only good for fooling the handshake between the key and the ews module which will get you crank but thhats about it. I spent 200 shipping mine to bimmerworld and they outsource to active. the OP should work for say remote start though.

  21. #96
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    Here we go again, the post from hell.
    I give up.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  22. #97
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    ive got a problem with ecu, need to replace it but i know that EWS issue, so ive read this topic 3-4-5-6-7 times, the only idea which came up to my mind is: FCUK THOSE GERMANS! WE SHOULD HAVE KILLED THEM ALL AT WW2, so there ould be no EWS,EWS2,VaNos or anything other.....

    instead: Russian cars without any wiring, exept for lighting

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Mods
    Can we please lock this post?
    It is so misleading and could get someone in trouble frying their DME if they don't read all the way through.
    The original post is not correct, and subsequent discussions always lead back to "oh, you're right it can't work"
    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Here we go again, the post from hell.
    I give up.
    What he said.
    2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
    Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
    Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
    Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
    ICE & Misc: Projector Z's w/DDE & 5k HID, 19'' Gold HRE C20's, Custom Aux pwr outlet, footwell lighting, ACS Splitters, Areo Sideskirts, Custom gauge pods, Z8 Start, Pioneer AVIC Z3, Clarus Components, 10" RE Sub in a Mister-X Enclosure, Alpine PDX 4X150 + 1X600 Amps
    Coming soon: and a visit to Randy Forbes

  24. #99
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    before any one starts to curse me I realy have no option but to delete teh EWS or if some one can give me the exact wires I need to run to setup the EWS sistem on e30, I swaped my engine :P

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by spider2077 View Post
    before any one starts to curse me I realy have no option but to delete teh EWS or if some one can give me the exact wires I need to run to setup the EWS sistem on e30, I swaped my engine :P
    I see you are from Craiova, me too.
    You can contact me on messenger, I have the same id as here.
    I can guide you...

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