First or all, thanks a million to cwise12 for the excellent guide!
However, I'm confused about the splitter cables, and how i attach these to the new projector?
So I'm upgrading from stock xenon projectors to bi-xenon. I should be able to split the electrical current from the full beam (ie the blue male connector in the video) and feed the new projectors. But i haven't figured out where the other end goes. There seems to be no female plug anywhere. Do i need to buy another set of splitter cables, and what would the specs be?!
I recorded a short video to illustrate this. Thanks in advance for your ideas!
https://youtu.be/skl2m2TYySY
I guess i found the answer in this video at 4:55:
https://youtu.be/MALhlsdNtl0
So the solenoid comes with just raw wires. I need an extra pair of 9006 connectors and "rubber boots" which should go on the raw wires. It might be useful to add them to the list of material at the top of the guide. Or did i miss something?
Hello,
Thank you for your guide.
I used it to install new EvoX-R 2.0 from Retrofitlab with 9006 splitters.
For those who would like to do the same and install EvoX-R 2.0 instead of the EvoX-R (1.0 ?), I must warn you I had to do some mod!
The EvoX-R 2.0 are shorter than the first version...
When I mounted it in place of the OEM projector, I had this :
The lens was far from the hole...
I had to trim the support screws :
Work done on 3 screws with the last one unmod as reference :
And then after all screws trimmed and mounted :
You can see on the latest picture I added bigger nuts to keep a gap between the plate and the original nut to keep it on the thread.
I'll take pictures in some days when headlights will be on the car.
Thank you!
Aarrrggghhh, pics are missing! Does anybody still have them somewhere? I've got a set of EvoX-R 2.0 I'm eager to install this weekend, but I've no clue of the screw dimensions or anything like that! Will M4 screws be fine? I'm planning on buying new ones, trimming them so they fit, get some locking washers of sorts and be done with it, trimming the light pod tower bracket thingies seems a bit extreme, like so:
https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...evox-r-v2.html
Does anybody have any more clues on this?
Live slow, die whenever
So I took my lights apart and did a bit of digging around at a local hardware store in a hurry and made this makeshift solution out of some alu tube and some 4,0 wood screws:
They're about 19mm in length, added washers for more adjustability. It's a makeshift solution, I'm not too happy with it, it does the job right now, but I will be taking the lights apart again to do a better job. The more permanent solution is going to be to use the old stock screws, get the washer off and cut more thread into the mounting end and use nylon nuts or loctite to keep them from undoing then add washers. That way I should retain stock stability and more adjustment with getting the beams to match up. Will update this thread when I finally get to it.
Live slow, die whenever
is this, or similiar midification possible to pre facelift bmw e39 1998?
Probably not Shiremux the housing is different unless you have xenon lights from factory.
Mehman are they m4 threads for the bolts? I just got the projectors will probbly tackle the project next year. I don't want to shave down the towers either.
Just did this and thought I'd contribute: To eliminate the gap, remove the 4 posts, and use a dremmel cutting wheel to remove the washers. Then use a 4MM .70 pitch die to extend the threads on the 4 posts down to about 5mm from the end. Finally, purchase four more M4 lock nuts and spin those down (locking part first) so that the bottoms are 10mm from the end. Add rubber spacers and mount the projector.
hi guys ... can the EVOX-R V2.0 D2S Bi xenon be converted to United Kingdom beam standard ? if yes can you tell me how as im located in uk. thanx
Screenshot_2.jpg
It's been a long time since I've done this projector swap, but I don't recall them being interchangeable between LHD and RHD. I checked the website and it does specify left hand drive, so it may require full disassembly and or custom fabrication of your own shroud, I'm not sure if you can simply flip them.
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Just doing this now with evo rx2, and I don't get a couple of things:
- Everyone keeps mentioning 3 screws/bolts. My projectors have 4 screws, I'm not sure why people are saying 3?
- The 4 oem bolts won't work without modification. The projector will be too far from the housing and it needs to be flush. I cut off the washer on the volts and threaded those bolts further.
In this video, I see there's aftermarket screws that came with the projectors. I did not receive these aftermarket screws. I did fine modifying the original screws, but if you don't have tap and die set, it would be nice to have the aftermarket screws. See this video at 6:38 min.
- Can someone elaborate ob aiming the projector? I don't really understand what the below means:
"Now comes the most important part of the install: aiming the projector relative to the high beam reflector. Once you install the light frame in the headlight, this is impossible to do. It’s super important to get it right now!
Rig up a way to power both the high and low beam at the same time. I used a car battery and some jumper cables to do this. Go somewhere dark where you can see the beam produced by the lights (I used my back yard, with the lights shining on the trees 100+ feet out). Tighten / loosen the correct nuts on the projector to align it correctly with the high beam."
Are we talking about the 4 nuts bolting the projector to the reflector assembly?
Based on this video, it seems all 4 nuts have to be at exactly the same distance.
12:27 in this video
https://youtu.be/acFmyHM3q8s?si=VME3u03mkPcWyRa0
Looks good, are they mounted into both housings?
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e39 Touring SOLD.
This is actually just the evoxr2 projectors, high vs low beam.
I didn't realize i needed to align evoxr low beam with oem high beam (H7) so I'll do that. Will also need to do 25 feet distance, will be better.
Looking at doing this…with regards to the gap on the 2.0. Is it purely a cosmetic thing or does it affect projector performance and light pattern (my guess is you would see a hard cutoff on the side of it was affecting light pattern but you never know)
Yeah the gap there with the 4 screws that mount the projector to the housing. So you ground off the “washer” and ran a tap down? Or did you remove the posts and tap that end so they could go deeper into the housing? If it’s just a cosmetic thing I am kind of inclined to just leave it as is anyways.
Yes I carefully cut the washer, but to avoid marring the stud/screw, I then just pulled it off with snips, after cutting it 90%.
Then I extended the threaded portion of the stud. I think that's the only way to do it. It was a relatively easy task if you've used a tap and die set before.
I think it's M7x1.0 thread.
It's definitely not just cosmetic. This is how you align your projector.
When you take the headlight apart, replace the projector, before putting it back together you have to align this new projector with the oem high beam.
The alignment takes place before you put the headlights back together.
To align the projector, you will need to adjust the nuts on these bolts. This will move the light left/right, up/down.
Also refer to this if anything I explained is unclear
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/b...#post-13921571
Also for my E53 X5, I decided to go with a different projector. It's too late for E39 already, but I had recently learned there's a better projector, as posted by M5E39Restorations
So this is what I'm going with for my X5 2002 headlight rebuild. It's a little bit more expensive, but apparently better.
It cost me 247 USD
You may want to consider it vs evoxr projectors.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ct_jtOuq...YzcXU0c2U5ZHNv
Thanks for the follow up. If you don’t trim the washer and thread the screws your 2.0 projector will be sitting back a little bit from the shroud. But you should still be able to mount and aim th projector since you have the “washers” there anyways. The problem as I understand it is that the projector lens then sits a bit farther back from the shroud/housing and leaves a visual gap. I’m trying to figure out if that gap is purely a cosmetic issue or if it would impact the performance of the projector
Also, how do you run the solenoid wires out? Do they squeeze out the boot or you cut another hole?
In my case I removed all the oem halos tubes and fiber optic wires, as I installed orion v5 for angel lights. So I don't need the socket for the oem angel light bulb. That's what I used to run my wires out.
Ahhh makes sense.
Missed your previous comment. I'm no expert, so don't know for sure if it's purely cosmetic or functional as well.
I think you can't go wrong mounting it OEM style, and it's really not that hard at all.
I didn't try to seat the projector back, so not sure if there would be any fitting issues either.
Watch this video starting from 06:20
They have new screws supplied with headlights, so that might be an easier solution if you don't feel like adding thread to the studs
https://youtu.be/acFmyHM3q8s?si=kBXf0GIV53y3qujm
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