2JZ E36 Coupe

[50RTD]

EDIT!

A lot has changed in the last 2 years, so here are the cliffs to date! The complete build thread is below! Cheers!

-Dan

















Engine out:










Engine in:







Brakes & Suspension

















Current Specs:


Car:
1994 E36 318is Coupe
Black Leather




Engine:
2JZGTE (ex Aristo)
Turbonetics T60-1
6Boost steampipe manifold
Titan 272 in/ex cams
Ported & port matched head
Ferrea stainless valves & locks
GSC Beehive valve springs
GSC Ti Retainers
Titan cam gears
Gates T215RB belt
ATi Balancer
EMS 6860 sequential ecu
Mojo LS2 coil on plug setup
PNT intake manifold


Box:
A341 ex-1UZ manualised auto
Stage 1.5 MV shift kit
3500rpm
PWR cooler
MV shift box
B&M Pro Ratchet shifter


Rear End:

M3 Reinforcement Kit
740i 210mm diff
CES Motorsport mount kit
Center & Ratio TBA!


Brakes & Suspension:

Wilwood 6 Piston calipers
355mm drilled & slotted rotors
Braided lines
BC ER Coilovers
Z3 reinforcement plates front
Turner reinforcement rear

Rolling Stock:

18x8.5" +30 front 18 X 10" +25 rear BBS LM reps
Khumo KU36 225/40 front, 245/35 rear





Thanks for reading, for the full story, keep scrolling!

Cheers

-Dan
















G'day all from Queensland Australia!

Thought i would share with you my ongoing 1JZ into BMW build, that i started a few months ago and am hoping that y'all fine folks can help me with all the fun and games associated with committing such a terrible and blasphemous act!

Background Story: [begin flashback]

Im a self confessed Toyota addict, and while i have always loved BMW's for obvious reasons, i was stepping out of my comfort zone when i brought the E36.
Obviously, there was a setting in the DME that detected this 'discomfort' and triggered the engine to spectacularly grenade itself within the first few thousand kays of ownership (of which it had done 220,000km prior). It was proper spectacular too, blew both sides out of the block and sump, the sort of failure you would expect from a poorly executed turbo install, but this thing was a nice bog stock 318is...

Shit happens.

So i brought a second 318is that had fire damage, to salvage the engine from and sell the rest. Great plan.

Went to put second engine in, notice a neat little hole in the side of that block. Fantastic. That was the end of any plans relating to BMW engines. My thoughts were "Toyota's simply dont do that". I have had a couple of Toyota powered vehicles previous to this that made bulk hp and loved every minute of it, while the 2 130hp BMW engines ive owned both ended up with holes in the block...

The solution:









I brought a known condition, low kay 1JZ from a mate (from a Soarer he carefully wrapped around a pole...) and ordered a K's Racing engine mount kit. While waiting for the mounts, the twin turbo's were removed and replaced with a Turbonetics T60-1 twin scroll turbo, externally wastegated with Egay manifold, which suits the twin scroll turbo perfectly, being a 2 x 3 into 1 design with 2 into 1 wastegate outlet (if that makes sense...)

The engine is to remain internally standard, with an EMS 4424 V4 with wideband oxy sensor running the show, 750cc Delphi injectors, Walbro pump, 2JZ cams plus all the other usual gear, 3" exhaust, FPR, FMIC, etc.


More pics to come, but thank you for reading so far.....

[50RTD]

Ok, well i cant post big pics at the moment, but will update as soon as i get the privilege... [EDIT: BIG PICS UP... MASSIVE PICS!]

Seeing as im aiming for ~300rwkw from this thing, the little 318is rear end was never going to cut it, so the bigger E36 diff was sourced, along with subframe reinforcement plates courtesy of Turner Motorsport who were more than happy send stuff out to Australia, which is great.

I had a great deal of fun removing the front 2 subframe bolts/studs, they were in there super tight. They are also, quite oddly, 15/16th hex heads, which i did not believe at first, but when my 24mm was stripping it and the 23mm didnt fit, i got the vernier calipers on it and guess what... 0.93".... aka 15/16ths. First time id used the 15/16ths in a while....

Anyway, after setting fire to my face, the plates were welded in and the rear end bolted back into place. The handbrake cables were an absolute pain in the arse, however after doing 2, it would be easier to do again, but i dont ever want to, im going to suppress that memory.


















More pics to come, thanks again for reading!

[50RTD]

Here are some more, small [EDIT: MASSIVE!] pics for everyone.

These ones are of the EMS Stinger V4, a box full of 3" Mandrell bent and straight mild steel that will one day be an exhaust, and finally 2JZ cams which, with a bit of machining, will slot in for a fairly mild increase in power and revablity.







-Dan

[M5Hunter]

Looking great! Good move on the subframe reinforcements I still need to get mine in.

[Pzary3233]

Wow looks really good! Can you comment on the KS racing mount kit? I'm very interested in doing this swap in the future.

[50RTD]

Hi guys, thanks for the replys.

357i, i recon you'll need them more than i will, the LS must put out some awesome twisting force... great fun!

Pzarry, the K's engine mounts were great, very well constructed and sits the engine (rear sump 1J) with about 10mm to the firewall and 10-odd mm to the crossmember. The factory oil filter/cooler fouls on the passenger side engine mount (right hand drive) but thats no big problem, as im going to put a bigger cooler in anyway.
K's had the engine mounts in stock, but needed to make the gearbox mount. The gearbox mount was...terrible. It didnt even come close to fitting either the bolt holes to the gearbox mount, or left to right across the chassis... may as well have been from a completely different car. Im making my own from scratch, didnt want to stall progress by sending the mount back and waiting for a new one...
Originally, i was going to make my own engine mounts, but for the price of the K's mounts, and the fact that they fit perfectly, i wasnt about to reinvent the wheel, besides there are enough headaches to be had in the swap!

[50RTD]

This is whats left of the 2 BMW M42's...

The first one spectacularly grenaded itself, blowing both sides out of the block. Wasnt doing anthing silly at the time, just cruising along nicely at around 120kph, then without any warning, bang, the thing dropped its guts. Was a painful exercise, i was a long way from home, cost another 1k to get it towed.













Second one was in a car i brought cheap, however under the impression everything engine wise was in good nick.

Seemed all good until...hello! Worked out well in the end, sold everything off it and quadrupled what i paid for the car, but did waste a lot of time in the process.









So i was thinking by this point that a Toyota engine would be the go. I sat down, grabbed a Oettinger Pilsner, had a few sips and then bang!

























Ok, so the last one was bullshit, but the decision was made to go with Toyota and start drinking Asahi.....

[baltic e36]

So i was thinking by this point that a Toyota engine would be the go. I sat down, grabbed a Oettinger Pilsner, had a few sips and then bang!

Now that's funny

I wonder what happens when you get a woman in your hands

[Monty540]

Classic

Laughing and crying with you

[Pzary3233]

That was a great way to start the morning.... Ugh... Work

[EThirtySicks]

Good stuff so far, man

[Pzary3233]

I'd almost be swayed to ditch the lsx to go to a 1jz

[50RTD]

Thank you for the comments guys, appreciate it!

Pzarry, i recon the LS swap is awesome, perfect for the E36 chassis, probably lighter than the 1J/2J too. Ive seen a few LS1's make huuuge curry on standard bottom ends, very very impressive. I dont think there would be anything more fun than chucking a V8 E36 around a track....


Ok well, i thought i would throw a few pics up about how im planning to attack the basic wiring side of things, firstly because those of you who know these things better than i do may be able to point out anything im missing, and secondly because a lot of the build threads i read have very limited information about the wiring component, so hopefully those of you who may be considering doing a similar swap yourself can get some sort of basic insight into it.

Please bear in mind, im no expert with wiring and to be honest, i was a bit daunted by the idea, however after doing a bit of research, things became a bit clearer and it actually seems to be quite straight forward, as im sure those of you who have done it will concur.


Ok, first pic. Everything that happens between the BMW chassis and BMW engine goes through the X20 plug, which is the multipin plug closest to the fuse box in this pic. For example, when the ignition power is turned on, the DME is turned on through this plug. When the key is turned to 'start', power to the starter motor goes through this plug. This is the same for all the relays critical to the engine, such as the main power relay, fuel pump relay etc and all the critical engine sensors that go to the dash cluster, such as water temp, oxygen sensor etc etc. All the other stuff like indicators, horn, lights etc, goes through a different harness. This baby is all about the engine, which is good.

Get to know what goes in and out of this plug, and how that can mate up to your new engine and you're on a winner.







Ive removed the entire BMW harness, however will be using as much of the factory wiring as possible in an attempt to keep it neat and not introduce problems by re-doing what the factory has already done....well. Will have more info on this later.


One of the things i wanted to do with the wiring of this car, is to have everything possible going through multipin plugs, to allow the engine to easily come in and out, if i ever wanted to... you know.... put a 2J into it.

With this in mind, i pinched a second X20 plug from my other E36 parts bitch, which will be used to interface the EMS to the engine, through one big, sexy plug. Works out pretty well, the EMS has 24 pins, the BMW multiplug has 25 pins, all of various sizes, some big for high power stuff, some small for non-power hungry stuff. And (the best bit i recon) the BMW fuse box has a spot to hook a second X20 plug onto.... you beauty!!














So the second multipin plug has all the good stuff for the EMS, such as water and air temp sensors, injector power and triggers, cam/crank angle sensors, ignitors, fuel pump trigger, fan trigger blah blah blah. All the critical wires, such as crank angle sensors etc are shielded, earthed (at one end only) and are positioned within the plug away from other higher current, interference causing wiring.

Just have to make sure that the two plugs are not accidently hooked up to the wrong harness... that could be nasty, however i have a prevention plan in the works....

[IWannaBMW]

Great project man! keep the pics coming

[50RTD]

Great project man! keep the pics coming

Cheers mate! Love your avatar and sig, piss funny!

Latest pics 4 ju'z.

1J came out for completion of engine side of wiring, final fitment of oil feed/return, catch can plus a general pretty up.

Beers were had, and sillybuggers eventuated.
It was suggested that the T61 was WAAY to small, and should be replaced with something a little more.... err...industrial. A Holset HX55 was found nearby and dummy fitted for shits and giggles.

Beholdeth thee!

[leonidas]

i had a 1jz back in my mkiii a few years back, which made me consider this option as well.
i'm just discouraged because there is no information as far as wiring in the motor.
i'm totally following this thread!
lookin good so far and i can't wait to see the final outcome.

[dirty30]

I want this swap soooooooo bad! keep us in the loop'

[leonidas]

one other thing, are you using the front sump or rear sump oil pan? its rear isn't it?

[50RTD]

G'day guys, thanks for the replys!

Leonidas, this particular engine is from a Z30 soarer and is rear sump config. I originally wanted a VVTi version, but they are all front sumps, although i believe you can swap the sump from the earlier version.


Im currently stuck into the wiring, so not much visual progress yet, but please accept this engine stand pic in the interim...

[Beema23]

hey hows it goin? good engine swap, im pretty much on the same lines as to swap my 328i engine with the 1jz , im in brisbane as well, this is giving me a good idea.

Btw how much is the cost if u dont mind me asking. cheers m8!

[50RTD]

G'day mate,

Cheers for the comment, your car would make a better base for this sort of swap, having a bigger diff and brakes than the 318is...

Cost wise, it can be done for much cheaper than i have done it, this one has blown out a bit, but hopefully will be done right the first time round.

I recon you could probably get an bog stock auto 1J into the car and running for as little as $3000 if you did most of the work yourself, but if not, it would cost at least $2k in labour to get it fitted, once you factor in wiring costs, mounting, exhaust fab, consumables, cooling systems etc.

Start adding single turbo's, standalone computers, big fuel systems etc, you can double or triple that cost. Unfortunately with this sort of stuff, if you do one thing, you need to do another 3 things and the cost just blows out.

Cheers

-Dan

[dcskate102]

Looking good. I'm installing a single in a week or so here.

[Beema23]

G'day mate,

Cheers for the comment, your car would make a better base for this sort of swap, having a bigger diff and brakes than the 318is...

Cost wise, it can be done for much cheaper than i have done it, this one has blown out a bit, but hopefully will be done right the first time round.

I recon you could probably get an bog stock auto 1J into the car and running for as little as $3000 if you did most of the work yourself, but if not, it would cost at least $2k in labour to get it fitted, once you factor in wiring costs, mounting, exhaust fab, consumables, cooling systems etc.

Start adding single turbo's, standalone computers, big fuel systems etc, you can double or triple that cost. Unfortunately with this sort of stuff, if you do one thing, you need to do another 3 things and the cost just blows out.

Cheers

-Dan

well ive went around moss street and asked around, the range is around 8 - 10 grand for the swap including the parts of the engine , custom mounts etc. do you think its a fair price? is this is your first time doing this engine swap?

[BMWTurbo]

I'd say $8-10k drive in drive out is a fair price, there are many things that will go unnoticed/thought of when doing conversions.

As a reference I got my Auto 2jzgte into the 7 for a bit over $5k, including the front cut price, doing the lot myself, aside from the tailshaft and some of the exhaust system.

You could easily double that money as soon as you start changing things though...

[50RTD]

Looking good. I'm installing a single in a week or so here.

Nice mate, got links to any pics of yours?

well ive went around moss street and asked around, the range is around 8 - 10 grand for the swap including the parts of the engine , custom mounts etc. do you think its a fair price? is this is your first time doing this engine swap?

Yeah i agree with BMWTurbo, your probably not going to get much change from that sort of money, getting a workshop to do it. There are a lot of man hours involved and with labour at $80-100/hr these days, it wont take long to rack up the bill. Auto and Manual will have significant price differences too (manual 1JZ R154 boxes go for $1200-$1800 plus clutch etc), modifying the BMW box to accept the 1JZ would cost similar money too.


You might be able to do it cheaper by skimping on a few costs, i.e reusing old hoses & belts, re-using the old clutch (if manual) plumbing into standard exhaust system, not fitting the aircon etc, but this is simply poor practice and should be avoided.

As for me, ive not worked on BMW's before and had to buy a full set of Torx bits (male and female) an extra 18mm spanner and socket, and have used my 11mm, 13mm, 16mm and 18mm tools for the first time in a long time. Toyotas are generally 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm and you can look at a bolt and know which one it will be, however BMW like to mix it up with an assortment of 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20mm etc.

But its all fun and games!