The next thing I need to figure out is the clutch situation.
With the 76mm turbo, I could make over 900 ft/lb.....and from experience it is good to have a little bit of extra capacity for drag racing launches.
My current CM850 twin disc clutch won't hold that power, so I contacted a vendor to go over options. I was advised to go with an entirely new basket, and either a twin disc or triple disc plate stack. (These are custom clutches from Clutch Masters)
Another option I'm considering is going to a Tilton Carbon / Carbon triple disc....but the price is nearly 3 times that of the Tilton triple disc.
Thanks for the options!
The Tilton 7.25" dual disk cerametallic (rally clutch) is not bad to drive honestly, especially when you pair it with a flywheel that has some inertia. You can probably get a nice Tilton 8.5" setup too if you're going to make crazy crazy power, but the 7.25" stuff will hold quite a lot (800 ft-lbs isn't hard from what I remember).
A carbon clutch is nice, but they tend to wear quickly, and I seem to recall their driveability goes down as they get hot and the coefficient of friction ramps up.
I talked to people that have first hand experience with the products that I'm looking at. One of them is currently at the Nurburgring.....on track as I write this....testing for the race this weekend. Others are doing things far in excess of my goals, and had useful feedback. Again...first hand experience...or in some cases...I got to sample stuff.
Tilton triple disc carbon / carbon clutch
Tilton flywheel
Tilton HRB
Tilton 800 Series pedal box
Tilton 79 series master cylinders
Incoming.
Now THAT is quite a stack, my friend! Interested in your decision to go with the pedal box in lieu of a dual master cylinder booster (e.g., Massive Lee) delete to achieve manual braking. I have gone back and forth with that decision on my E46 M3 race car.
Regardless, all good stuff!
Best,
Peter
Thanks! I'm not sure if I'm more excited about the clutch or the pedal box!
I went with the dual cylinders to allow tuning of brake bias with the wide range of tires I'm liking to have in the back of the car.
The Tilton pedals also will allow me to put my feet where I'm most comfortable, and adjust the pedal effort to taste.
Thanks!
Only took me 10 years to pull the trigger....
HI, I use a OS Giken Tripple. not bad to drive and holds the power I make.
Delicious ATI:
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 06-13-2018 at 01:39 PM.
The old ATI damper that was good to 600 HP:
Comparison of the 600 HP damper and the new 1200 HP damper:
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The LPS Fab Alphaloc coupler:
I'll be using these instead of silicone couplers/t-bolt clamps, or Wiggins clamps. A 1/8 turn twist, and they come apart without any bits to hold. (No pins, or clamps)
Is the stock BMW damper good for 240 hp?
In new condition yes. Over time the rubber ring wears out....
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N62 throttle body:
New throttle pedal, linkage, and position sensor:
From left to right - 76 series clutch master cylinder, 79 series front brake master cylinder, 79 series rear brake master cylinder:
Clutch and brake fluid reservoir:
Hydraulic throw-out bearing kit:
Tilton 800 Series Pedal box:
Billet brake bias adjuster:
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 06-13-2018 at 08:21 PM.
Tilton flywheel:
Tilton triple disc carbon/carbon clutch:
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I'm impressed with the details from A.R.E.
This is a billet machined oil tank cap:
The cap installed:
The bottom of the oil tank has an interesting fitting:
All of that is a step up from the usual low budget stuff around here. I love the clutch but that is a pricy piece. 250-300 ft lbs per disc.
Laying it down! Nice kit.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
The clutch in the configuration that I've selected is rated by Tilton at 1005 ft/lbs, and was bench tested on a torque dyno to over 1300 ft/lb. (Tilton break-in, and test every carbon clutch prior to shipment) I've also selected the softest hub spring; there are a number of stiffer springs that I can change to that will increase the capacity further at the cost of additional pedal effort.
However, I didn't chose this clutch because of torque capacity alone. Everyone that has driven one has said it has the best modulated slip of anything they have ever tried. For a street car, that is mostly about my enjoyment of experience, this was a very important strength. Secondly, the heat capacity of this clutch will make running multiple back to back passes at the drag strip a breeze. It's service life is also well beyond any conventional clutch...
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The fitting is for a 110v oil heater element:
I'll be able to pre-heat the oil before running the engine.
Spintric Air / Oil separator:
The fluid that is pulled out of the dry sump oil pan is basically a foam of aerated oil. (This is the working state of fluid in wet sump oil pans as well) The Spintric has a velocity based separator element that removes a lot of air from the oil mixture coming from the engine. The Spintric outputs oil and air separately to the top of the Oil Tank, each getting a dedicated entry location to maximize further de-aeration of the oil. The entry point of the oil into the tank also promotes swirling of the 2.5 Gallon oil reservoir, which has 3 additional baffle plate systems to further de-aerate the oil.
To summarize, the oil foam is pulled out of the engine's oil pan with 3 suction stages, passed through the Spintric to remove air, circulates through 3 stages of baffles in the oil tank, then is pulled out of the bottom of the oil tank to be circulated back to the engine by a 4th pressure stage in the dry sump pump housing.
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4 Stage A.R.E. dry sump pump:
The oil volume and pressure can be tuned by varying pulley sizes, and there is pressure regulator in the pressure stage to fine tune the pressure curve.
Those Spintech deaeration systems are nice. The ARE stuff is finished off really nice.
A.R.E. dry sump pan:
Billet remote oil filter housing:
A standard SBC filter screws on.
Oil Tank vent can.
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