E36 No crank, no start but lights on dash work like normal.

**Grush123** · 10-22-2011, 02:54 PM

Hi guys,

I did search and have been doing a lot of reading in the past few days. I just needed to confirm something.

When I turn the key I get the light on the dash but nothing when I turn the key to crank the engine. Since the car has been sitting for the past four years I figured the battery is junk. I got a replacement and still the same thing.

The car has been in the garage so I don't think the DME could possibly be wet. I thought that it might be the EWS but haven't gone this far yet.

Here is the part that I am a little confused about.

I am getting power at the radio (can't remember the code but that's no biggie). I am not getting any power to the temp cluster. I can't activate the heat/ac controls and they are not lighting up at all.

I wanted to know if this is possibly a symptom that someone has seen before and maybe point me in the right direction.

I also read something about fuse 31 being bad. I checked and this is a 5 amp fuse that was actually bad. I replaced it but nothing so far.

Any help would be appreciated.

Grush.

Update:

I just checked and I am not getting any power to fuse #18 for the fuel pump when I put the key in cranking position. So something is preventing the starter and fuel system from working. Any ideas anyone?

**killaM3** · 10-22-2011, 11:02 PM

so it doesnt crank at all right? maybe starter relay..

**328iFun** · 10-22-2011, 11:35 PM

So the start isn't spinning or click at all?

If not, starter is probably toast. Not sure how difficult it is to replace on a 318. But on a 328 its a total p.i.t.a.

**jmo69** · 10-23-2011, 12:05 PM

I got a similar problem intermittently, although I can start it by pushing or parking it on an incline and bump starting it. I'm hoping it's the clutch switch.

**E30M44** · 10-29-2011, 09:42 PM

If you can hear the fuel pump come on. EWS is fine.

**EurOnly** · 10-29-2011, 09:54 PM

Did you try bump starting it? If it starts then rule out the EWS.

**flyfishvt** · 10-29-2011, 10:45 PM

Originally Posted by jmo69

I got a similar problem intermittently, although I can start it by pushing or parking it on an incline and bump starting it. I'm hoping it's the clutch switch.

E36's do NOT have a clutch safety switch. BMW didn't start installing those until the e46.

**3twenty8is** · 10-30-2011, 02:38 AM

Most likely starter problem. I had a similar problem earlier this week. Ended up just being battery connector problem. I Figured this out after I replaced the battery.

**jereisluke** · 10-30-2011, 02:59 AM

Originally Posted by flyfishvt

E36's do NOT have a clutch safety switch. BMW didn't start installing those until the e46.

I test drove a late 90s E36 323is that wouldn't start unless the clutch was in. Threw me for a loop at first as I thought the car was dead. Then the owner told me I had to push the clutch in.

**flyfishvt** · 10-30-2011, 07:18 AM

Originally Posted by jereisluke

I test drove a late 90s E36 323is that wouldn't start unless the clutch was in. Threw me for a loop at first as I thought the car was dead. Then the owner told me I had to push the clutch in.

That had to be a very late production car. This topic has been covered several times over my 2 years here and it always comes to the same conclusion...no clutch safety switch.

BMW has added certain items to cars at the tail end of a production run like adding EWSII and OBDII to late production 95's. I'm betting that the 323 was one of those cases. The 323 was only produced for the last two years of the e36 run.

**freddybeemer100** · 10-30-2011, 09:45 AM

Is there an old alarm system installed in the car? If not, be sure to check for a faulty ign. switch.

I have a '94 325ic and there is a switch on the clutch arm bracket. It was bypassed by a prior owner or I would have done it myself.

**BMWMONSTA** · 11-04-2011, 09:04 PM

pull out ews from under the glovebox. Most likely white. See if you have power to the red wire( i think). If yes, then power the black and green wire (also from memory). If the starter kicks over, ews is bad.

**Bimmer Dre** · 05-23-2014, 05:13 PM

I had the same problem with my 95 325I conv. My car sat for about 2 months and the battery died. I replaced the battery, turn the key and nothing happened. All of the lights work just as you described. Thanks to reading a lot of posts on here, I ordered a new key from the dealer and the car started right up. My chip in the key was bad. Thanks to all of you guys for all of your help. It saved me a huge towing bill and diagnostic fee.

**aczfenderstrats** · 12-08-2014, 12:29 AM

my 94 325 has the same issue. EWS I. Things I've tested/replaced/ruled out: Ignition switch, starter immob relay, key (ews I does NOT have a chip), no clutch switch, starter, no water in DME compartment, battery, battery connection, engine IS grounded. Car does start with a bump start. This used to be an intermittent thing. Turn the key and get this like 5 times, then it would start. Now it won't start at all. I'm so stumped here! Please help!!!

**spyderg0d** · 12-08-2014, 06:15 PM

Odd? My 95 325 vert is supposed to be ews1 but I have a key ring for key chip? Hmmm?

**Nanniepoo** · 12-09-2014, 07:25 AM

Originally Posted by spyderg0d

Odd? My 95 325 vert is supposed to be ews1 but I have a key ring for key chip? Hmmm?

What's the build date? I believe EWSII was added 1/95.

**aczfenderstrats** · 12-10-2014, 09:10 PM

I'm pretty sure this is NOT an EWSII issue as I've seen this problem posted several times (with NO SOLUTIONS) happening in cars with EWS I or no EWS at all. Any ideas on what this could be? I got an e36 paper weight right now

**aczfenderstrats** · 12-26-2014, 05:30 PM

Bump

**Avec** · 12-26-2014, 06:30 PM

What have you done to troubleshoot? Have you checked battery ground? have you tried activating the starter via the data connection? have you confirmed it is not a ignition switch problem? You need to help out too.

**tando17** · 03-04-2015, 01:17 PM

I have a similar problem on my E36 318is 97 model except that this happened when driving and the cut off when wanting to start or bump start nothing would happen though the lights are on at the dashboard. My key does have a computer chip and also the batter on the is totally flat as I resorted to opening the car manually with the key before this incident. should i replace key or battery or what seems to be the probllem guyz please advise i'm dumb founded. A friend of came over once who has some clue in machenics but not electronics and tried to bridge the starter to check if it is the problem it is only then that it cranked but did not have any combustion to start.

**Woodruffscott** · 06-28-2015, 07:41 PM

I have this problem too. 1998 328i Vert. It happens with both keys intermittently, (power to everything, lights, blower, instrument cluster) so it is not the chip. It is either the antenna ring or the EWS. I believe my ride has the EWSIII, so I can't use the "EWS BEHIND THE GLOVEBOX" jumper fix that I have seen recommended for older E36s.

Anyone who knows any jumper fixes for the EWSIII, I would love to hear about it!

thanks!

**LivesNearCostco** · 11-21-2015, 11:46 PM

Quick note--I just went through this with my '97 E36. Radio and headlights worked but wouldn't crank, climate control module was dead, no warning gong, and alarm remote wouldn't lock/unlock doors (just gave warning beeps as if trying to arm the alarm while a door, hood or trunk is still open). Battery was showing 12.3 volts and a jump from another car did not help start it. It turns out my fuse #31 was blown. This 5W fuse powers part of the HVAC, heater core valve, warning gong, OBC/clock, the and the immobilizer (I assume that's EWS).

I replaced it and car started fine, but fuse blew again 2 days later. Another thread said it could be a shorted component or wire blowing the fuse, and one possible short is the heater valve (controls coolant flow to the two sides of the heater core). Other testing can include unplugging the OBC and unplugging the HVAC module. I unplugged my heater valve and drove all today without blowing fuse 31. If that continues a few days, next step is to replace my heater valve.

So if your E36 won't start, the OBC/clock and HVAC displays are dead, and your battery has enough voltage, check fuse #31, or whichever one your fuse box says controls both the immobilizer and heater fan. Then carry a few spare 5A fuses until you find out why it blew. If your OBC and HVAC displays are okay, then it's not fuse #31.

**DFW Kirk** · 07-06-2016, 06:14 PM

1994 325ic auto. Intermittent no start. Normally fires right up with key, and i jumped the red and yellow/black after the ignition switch just to see it work, fires right up. When the no start occurs, I can hear fuel pump, but key turn and jump doesn't turn starter.

However, jumping the 11 and 14 in the diagnosis port starts car (with key on). Bentley manual says there's a starter relay but it's not behind the dead pedal. I replaced the crash relay, no change. There is a small brown relay way up under the dash above the dead pedal, but I can't get to it. Looked at starter relays on ebay and they're large and yellow. I also switched the horn and fuel pump relays and car started, and horn worked!

Car will start after 15-30 minutes after a try and I swear I heard a little metal tink sound like a relay resetting. Couple more clues maybe: if I run the AC it won't start the next try (unless I walk away for 15-30 min, and it ALWAYS starts first thing in the morning. Battery shows 12.4 at rest and goes to 14.3 running, even with air on. Starter red wire is always hot, the smaller other wire has good connection. I redid several ground wires including the frame to block. Again, starts at Port 11,14 jumped, always.