There seems to be LOTS of confusion/misunderstanding of how the intake systems on cars work. So instead of continuing to post things scattered in various threads, it'll all go here (hopefully).
Like most things, bigger isn't always better. Yet we see people try to put the biggest exhaust, largest intake, and widest tires on the car they can manage to fit. I blame a combination of marketing and stupidity for this, but perhaps it can be fixed.
This thread will focus on the basics of intake design BEFORE the throttle body. I think I've covered intake manifold design here on BF.C before. I'll make some reference to the intake manifold design here as well, but I'll leave it as something that BMW designed and nobody here will bother to change. If there are any of questions on its design, I'd be happy to start another thread for that as well.
So, onward. The intake manifold is designed to take advantage of resonances that occur naturally in the intake. These resonances are caused by the drawing of air into the cylinders. As the intake valves open/close, they create pressure waves. The mass of the air in the intake is accelerated torward the intake valves on the intake stroke, and when the intake valve closes, that mass + velocity has momentum. This creates a pressure wave that reflects off the closed valve and back out of the intake runner. The harnessing of this pressure wave, and tuning of its frequency, allows the engineers behind the intake manifold to take advantage of it. The reflection of that pressure wave off the back of the intake manifold, combined with other pressure waves from the other cylinders in harmony, will create a pressure wave torwards the intake valve that will arrive just as it opens at certain RPM's. This lets the pressure wave assist with the filling of the cylinder, effectively cramming the air in, instead of just the piston trying to suck in air.
These intake resonance pulses don't just stay confined to the intake though. With the throttle body open, they travel outward through the intake pipes until they find something else to reflect off of. Usually they work their way through the MAF and find themselves bouncing off of the air filter. From this, you can see that changing the length, diameter, or shape of the pipe between the TB and the air fliter will change this frequency. That in itself shouldn't be a problem, but usually these intake resonances can cause slight issues. Most common of which is giving bad readings from the MAF sensor.The MAF is counting on air flowing in only one direction over its sensor, and reversions of the air will greatly confuse its reading. It will be seeing more air "going into the engine" even though that air is actually going away from the engine. This means that small reversions, which should be subtracted from the "air into the engine" number are actually added. The ECU uses this value for fueling, and without knowing why, gets it wrong.
This is where resonance control comes into play. Enter the Helmholtz resonator. The helmholtz resonator is there to attenuate the pulses that are outside of the intake plenum. A helmholtz resonator is a cavity and a duct connected to the intake pipe. Its the triangular thing hanging off the air box on the E36's. Its the gonzo nose looking thing on subarus and the likes. etc... Its the "random empty box" hanging off the intake pipe that most people look at and go "wtf?"
Yes, it has a purpose.
The diameter required for the intake duct is also an easily calculated bit. Its generally accepted that you want the intake velocities to not exceed 180 ft/sec. I'd be willing to bet that the factory was pretty damn spot on with the sizing of that stuff. So I'd be willing to "randomly guess" that somewhere around 3" is the right size for the intake pipes.
Next bit, Notice how straight and short the tract is from the stock airbox to the MAF? thats intentional. As is the air horn (velocity stack) inside the airbox. A bent piece of tube, even a mandrel bent one, will create turbulence. There is an exception to that though, and thats if you can get the air to swirl through the pipe, completing at least one full revolution through the bend. If one full revolution is completed, then all the air in the pipe has traveled the same distance and there is nothing to create a funk with the flow.
Hopefully this will prompt someone to actually "design" a proper intake pipe, as well as cut down on the random un-engineering of the intake system.
Michael McCoy TRM
You're saying the funky flow is a bad thing?Originally Posted by techno550
Last edited by delgadoduvidoso; 09-08-2005 at 11:48 PM.
2007 M Coupe - stock-ish...
1984 318 GTR - more mods go here...
1983 300D - hippie sled...
2019 Nissan Frontier S - cheap truck...
I always wondered what that was for.Originally Posted by techno550
Fascinating. Thanks for taking the time to write it!
E36 DIYs: Air Pump | Vent Gauge | E46 Armrest | SmarTire TPMS
E46 DIYs: Hella TPMS | Aftermarket Horns | Window Regulator Notes | Trunk Wire Harness | Trunk 12V Socket
Excellent post, Mike.
I'm interested to see how quickly a well-written informative post like this falls off the first page to make room for more posts about 19" wheels and crank pulley threads.
-Paul
"Good. Now go and show them to the guy with the checkered flag." -Colin Chapman upon being shown the wind tunnel results for the Lotus T80.
so no one makes a good intake right now your saying?
- Most seem to stop at "big pipe = more flow".Originally Posted by M3Alpine99
- Not one has any process for controlling intake resonance.
The general trend for all seems to be a combination of the above. "its a big pipe, so it flows more. Oh, and it SOUNDS cool. Its WAY LOUDER."
Michael McCoy TRM
so in your opinion... whats the best intake system??! from reading your post i think ill be putting the stock air box back on..
informative post, thanks good read.
it really seems like the stock airbox isn't "perfect" yet either because they designed it to dampen the intake noise right?
--DrDubHold on let me get my laptop and read this on the toilet.
Techno, perhaps you should start designing parts and sell the designs to these manufacturers. Or just start making them yourself. The dyno doesn't lie. If you make a better part, people will buy them.
-Paul
Last edited by ettsn; 09-09-2005 at 04:21 PM.
"Good. Now go and show them to the guy with the checkered flag." -Colin Chapman upon being shown the wind tunnel results for the Lotus T80.
Originally Posted by M3Alpine99
The parts are out there, if you know where to shop...
....
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
...and another clue is what I need. So that extra noise is most likely turbulance? Or is it noise from the filter? Can you recommend an intake system that is a better design than others? Great write-up!Originally Posted by badmonkey
always wondered what that was for.
so the velocity stack in the stock air box is a good thing? (i took it out but have the stock box, with like the half that faces the front cut off. got bored.)
umm i would love to engineer stuff like this
We're sorry, but you have been banned from using this site.
You have been banned for the following reason:
(flaming, language, inappropriate comments, bashing and trolling)
You have 2147483647 minutes remaining on the ban.
{That is 4,082.979 years}
So you're saying that a Green Gizmo or Tornado might actually help a a CAI?
ex-1995 Cosmos M3 Coupé - deck spoiler / koni struts + shocks / x-brace / clears / unstaggered contours / yokohama avs es100 / alu thermostat housing / emp water pump / porterfield r4-s pads / gc rtab shims / bavauto ss brake lines / fdm / ie rsm plates / kicker sub + box + amp / sylvania silverstar lows / lamin-x / loc-tite'd opn / lots of refurbishing
Retired - mason strut brace / jl stealthboxes / tms chip + hfm / s&b filter + outerwears / ecis heatshield / alpine 9835 + aux
E36 ///M DIY & Tech - Door Handles / Underpanel / Coolant Hoses / Gear Ratios / 3.5" Intake / Lower Chain Tensioner / Threaded Starter / IAT Sensor / 24# Injectors
nothing is good for the car ha?
2006 e60 M5 Dinan S2
2001 M5 Carbon Black Dinan Stage 3 - Sold
2003 M-Tech 540i - sold
1995 /// M3 Alpine White - sold
techno550, so would short ram or long tube be better? I heard some ware that the longer tube will allow more turbulence to build up, don't know if this the good turbulence or the bad though
Thanks Mike, good read
///Andres
11 X5d sport - daily tow rig
09 335d - evolve tuned 327whp / 490wtq
97 M3 - NASA TTB
95 M3 Turbo - 3.0l s52, PTE74GTQ, AEM EMS & CDI, etc
the right length tube is best. The usual *compromise* between the long and short tube intakes is the source of the air. long tubes try to get air from behind the front bumper/foglight. This is usually dirty air though. The short tubes sit in the engine bay and get whatever washes off of the radiator, which is usually fairly warm.
The air from in front of the combustion chamber won't make it all the way out, but that pressure pulse can.
watch the fuel cloud in videos like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_QyUD6V5_I
You can get a sense of the scale of reversal of flow in the intake manifold.
Michael McCoy TRM
McCoy said my Dinan Long Tube Intake was supreme Ruler...
On my NA cars, they've had the stock airboxes in place. I've drawn up some basic tube based intake systems, and done some basic analysis, but the gains are still quite small. Much of it being very reliant on the filter, and nothing beats a good large paper panel filter.
On the M3, a bigger panel filter would be my choice if I were to design an intake from scratch.
I've had a number of people ask about your typical tube type though, so I might throw some time that way. Need to pick a proper filter element though.
Michael McCoy TRM
Bookmarks