Obd1 cam sensors can be tested with a multimeter.
If your sensor has no resistance get a new one.
Cam sensors control fuel.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I, +2 on putting all the stock hardware and electronics back on to see if the car will at least start
and if it does, check for CELs - check idling and observe how the car runs.
Replace sensors that are throwing codes, make sure the car runs perfect.
Then, throw the Turbo stuff back on:
If it runs like crap or not at all again - you know its because:
a. you didn't install the turbo stuff properly, lol or
b. DME, injectors, or bad MAF - not going to question Zack's tune (because I'm not a tuner)
You don't have to connect piping to MAF or anything, just throw the stuff back on real quick. Literally will take 30-45 minutes.
But, my car has always at least started (ran like shit) but started, none the less. And I've literally unplugged (all sensors), replaced, tried different sensor combinations (some plugged, some not). Checked fuel pressure, fuel pump. Everything - it always started.
Try and report back
- - - Updated - - -
AND videos help as well
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-27-2019 at 03:22 PM.
Have you done a boost leak / intake leak test? You may have popped a hose off during your 2 step launch control. That will also cause flooding. Might have been the boost in compression that allowed it to start when you put oil in cylinders.
A massive intake leak will definitely cause flooding. Crank for 15 seconds and pull all 6 plugs. Is it soaking all 6 plugs in gas after cranking?
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
If you hold the throttle down, does the oem ecu do flood clear?
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
well i changed out the camshaft position sensor and nothing has changed.
im going to go over everything again as for cracked hoses and what not and c if i can find anything out of the ordinary.
if i cant seem to figure it out im going have no choice but to take it to a local bmw mechanic who has more free time on his hands.
the car seems like it getting fuel because of the strong fuel smell but i cant seem to hear the fuel pump running when turning on the car but once jumping the relay i hear a fluid splashing sound by the fuel rail,
the car also has a definate spark and after changing around the fuel filter, camshaft position sensor and crank shaft sensor its still the same thing.
i also noticed that the cars rpm gauge doesnt budge when trying to start her up.
im getting aggravated with the whole situation and on a brink of giving up and taking her in to the shop.
Whats the resistance on the new cam sensor?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I surely dont know as much as Zach, but I thought obd1 cam sensors were Hall effect? Would think that would be hard to bench test, you would need to supply voltage it.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Last edited by drstuess; 01-29-2019 at 04:57 PM.
Did you do the starter fluid test, with the spark plugs dry, like I wrote here: #9
That would be very interesting, because that would mean that the ignition part of the DME/coils/etc is working properly (if the engine combusts the starter fluid).
And then you could conclude that there is a problem with the fueling. Replacing fuel pressure regulator, or, better, first measuring fuel pressure would then increase the chances of fixing this a lot.
Fuel pressure regulators can go bad in several ways. I once had one go bad that sent 7 bar (full fuel pump pressure, killing the fuel pump in the process) to the fuel rail. That will cause soaking for sure. And it can also go bad, in that it builds virtually no pressure. Then the fuel doesn't get atomized properly in the cylinder and might also result in a soaked engine, because the mixture won't combust.
Good luck! Don't give up yet.. Or, if you know a good, and not too expensive Indy-shop, let them do the ignition and then fuel pressure test.. Perhaps ask them for a fixed price, so there are no surprises.
Running to the wrong shop, with a guy with insufficient experience, and giving him an open budget to diagnose and replace everything, can cost you a lot (hundreds and hundreds) of dollars before you know it.
Last edited by ed323i; 01-29-2019 at 05:18 PM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
hey yeah i tried to start the car several times with starting fluid and nothing happened.
i also just replaced the fuel pressure regulator to absolutely no change.
got a new camshaft position sensor put it in and still the same thing.
i dont want to give up on trying to get it running as this car has never been worked on by anybody besides my self. headgasket / turbo and fabricating all done bymyself.
its just frustrating .lol
I also noticed the rpm gauge doesn’t move when the I try to start her up . What would be the cause of that ?
well i took the manifold off to check for any lose connections and ruptured hoses and everything seemed fine.
funny thing was right before i unhooked the hoses for the fuel line i tried to bleed the system of fuel and the car seemed like it was about to start.
it seems like everytime the fuel pump relay or fuse is disconnnected the car seems to fire up but dies right away.
also changed the crank sensor with the one im waiting to return to an ebay seller and nothing changed as well.
and this is the car btw:
Last edited by DSGBUILT; 01-29-2019 at 10:49 PM.
quick update guys:
after taking off the manifold and going over everything and also cleaning the icv valve while i was there, the car started right up. i been in the garage for the past few hours so im going to call it a night plus i didnt want to wake up my neighbors with the loud ass hood dump.
come morning time im going to c if she fires right up.
ill keep everyone updated with everything
so after starting the car in the morning the car started right up but ran super rich, it idled at 8.5afr and as soon as i moved it it shut right off..
my next plan of action is to perform a home made smoke test and c if that does anything, i also got a cheap ass ebay 15$ 02 sensor to go with my build maybe thats a possible cause for it running to rich.
Last edited by DSGBUILT; 01-30-2019 at 01:00 PM.
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