If your on facebook you've probably seen these already but I've started producing these 3D printed cam timing blocks.
works on all M42, M50, M52, S50, S52, M54 engines.
can order from the link below
https://www.alien-engineering.com/pr...-timing-blocks
Works just like the factory timing blocks but have built in angle for 0-15 degrees of advance or retard. They snap onto the back of the cams and will not fall off. They are reversible, one side advances the cam, flip it around to retard the cam.
The non vanos blocks are for installing a non vanos intake cam into the exhaust side of the head for a cheap upgrade over M50 cams.
Pricing
$20 each
$100 for set of 0,2,4,6,8,10,12, and 14 degree blocks.
If you want a different color or a custom angle please send me a message, that is no problem. Anything from 0-40 degrees will be easy to make.
Last edited by someguy2800; 11-08-2022 at 12:52 PM.
What about the indicator style.
These are so cool.
Question though, and forgive my ignorance.. What is the best way of determining what is best for a given set up? Is there an easier way than doing this on the dyno and making pulls after each adjustment?
These would be great for my retorquing of the 11 mm head studs in my near future.
Very cool Perry.
I'm going to get a few from you to play with the M54.
The way to VANOS is setup on the M54, these would be great to put the cam in a non-standard position.
On the exhaust side, the cam is wildly biased for what I think is emissions....because it doesn't make any sense to me what the range of adjustment is in the WRONG direction. (Hurts VE when you move the exhaust cam with VANOS) On closer evaluation, I found that my exhaust lobe position is nearly 20 degrees off from what works on other boost FI BMWs....
@vollosso
What set should I get for my car?
m52/ s52 Cams
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I figured I would explain why the wacky cam timing works for anyone new to moving the timing around.
The aim when trying to increase boost is that each cylinder filling event has more volume (mass) than the previous event. To do this, you want to increase valve overlap at TDC to maximize the amount of fresh charge volume vs burned charge volume in the cylinder. The key to this is that the inlet port pressure is higher than the exhaust port pressure. As the mass flow through the exhaust increases, the back pressure increases, and eventually you end up with a 1 to 1 ratio with the inlet charge. The engine wants completely different valve timing for the inlet biased pressure, vs equal pressure, vs exhaust biased pressure.
When the engine has equal pressure seen at TDC in the exhaust and inlet ports, it behaves like a naturally aspirated engine.
When the inlet pressure is higher than exhaust pressure at TDC, it behaves like a bigger engine.
When the exhaust pressure is higher than inlet pressure at TDC, it behaves like a smaller engine.
By moving the exhaust timing around, you are trying to "hide" the high pressure from when the inlet valve is open. (In addition to aiding in cylinder blow-down) If you have a "big" cam though, there will be a point where you loose engine power because the exhaust is open too soon, AND the inlet is seeing some exhaust pressure at TDC. This is where you would move the inlet valve timing away from being open at the same time as the exhaust valve, which hurts top end power (The inlet likes to be open earlier at higher RPM) but helps with midrange spool and torque production.
And here are some variations on this strategy:
Due to a mistake in how I interpreted my exhaust VANOS position, you can see with the Turbo M54 exhaust centreline that I was mirroring the shape of the S54 turbo centreline, but the cam off by a LOT. This is where I'm looking to move my exhaust cam splines by 30 degrees to get it lined up with the Turbo S54 exhaust centreline. BTW....I ran that exhaust timing curve (Blue) for a very short time before I locked the exhaust position at -103 Degrees. (The VE took a dive on data logs)
Your 2nd picture doesn't work
HI, i want to place an order. How to do it.
id like to order a set, international order please.
Do you still sell these? I would really like to buy a set. 0deg NV and 0deg normal. And also the piece you made to hold the camshaft in the 3-jaw chuck.
Is it possible?
Hello. I sent you an e-mail. I want to buy these adjustment apparatus. ContactHello. I sent you an e-mail. I want to buy these adjustment apparatus.
Thanks, email returned.
- - - Updated - - -
For anyone else, you can order them on my website here
https://www.alien-engineering.com/pr...-timing-blocks
I think questions are not taken into account. I ask again. I have a combination of m54b30 camshaft and m50nv camshaft. What is your appropriate adjustment apparatus. There are many options but which one you need to take
So if u look on his site he has recommendations for multiple displacement/ motor configurations…
I looked at the web page. There is something wrong with the advertising picture. Inlet camshaft has the letter A. So installed the Exhaust camshaft. Why not plug in the inlet camshaft. The inlet camshaft has the letter E. I want to buy it, but I doubt the faulty application
Bookmarks