Chikinhed's Mini Build

[vollosso]

What upper subframe bushings do you have? Do they seat onto the chassis or stop at the stud?

Deflection is the real issue, maybe a bushing that spreads the load over the chassis more would reduce the deflection.

When i machined mine i made them clear the bottom of the stud.. and they have a 3" dia..

Although i cant remember which bolt needed the clearance to mate with the chassis..


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[chikinhed]

I have Polyflex blacks for which I have made a thick bottom washer and shims so that there is no gap between the top of the bushing and the subframe. The early Polyflex bushing were not a good design. When I tighten the subframe bolt/nut it compresses the poly bushing maybe 0.020". In the video I can see the forward but, washer, stud and bushing moving with the diff and subframe, it's not bushing deflection.

[chikinhed]

I got the eBoost2 installed last night along with moving the AEM failsafe from the pillar pod and installing both gauges in the Rallyroad gauge pod. I think I actually likes my pillar pod better, the cluster is too crowded now. I really don't like that the eBoost2 is bigger than all the other gauges. It was too late by the time I finished the install so I haven't programmed the eBoost2 or driven it yet. That install was very time consuming.

[chikinhed]

I set up the eBoost2 and took it out for a test drive. Here are the numbers I ended with for the night which gave a peak boost of 25 psi at 4000 rpm with it tapering to 21 psi by 5400 rpm and wavering between 20.5 - 21.5 psi to redline.

eBoost2 settings:

SP 80
GP 20
SN 25
RP1 5800
RP2 7200
FAC 16

I think the boost control is a bit better than the AMS-500 for this issue but not good enough. I could probably adjust the eBoost2 to give me a stable 21 psi at this point.

I have installed a three port and a four port solenoid for trouble shooting. I have it configured right now so that the three port is only controlling the 'top' of the WGs (Two Port Connection Method 1). I could try the Two Port Connection Method 2 but the four port solenoid set up looks more promising for accurate boost control. That will be next weeks project now.

One thing I have noticed is the first pull I do the boost doesn't drop off. All pulls after that the boost hits target and tapers off. I need to datalog it next time to confirm it's actually happening.

I already miss my analog boost gauge, the rapidly changing digital read out takes too long for the brain to process compared to a needle. The gauge lights don't match the dash lights blah blah blah. :/

[dburt86]

4 ports are super sensitive to DC changes. Be careful when setting up.

[chikinhed]

Where is this on his website? I cannot seem to find it.

http://www.masonengineering.net/imag...oorsupport.jpg

[3literheater]

Thank you

[chikinhed]

I finally got out to a BMW club autox event. I had some completion today from a brand new Porsche Turbo S. We had similar times but he was using his launch control at every start. My 20 year old M3 does pretty good against a car who's purchase price tax is twice the value of my car.

My 8 yr old daughter came with me to the event and had a blast as my copilot, giggling the whole time and telling me to go faster. A future speed demon.

[CvilleBill]

I finally got out to a BMW club autox event. I had some completion today from a brand new Porsche Turbo S. We had similar times but he was using his launch control at every start. My 20 year old M3 does pretty good against a car who's purchase price tax is twice the value of my car.

My 8 yr old daughter came with me to the event and had a blast as my copilot, giggling the whole time and telling me to go faster. A future speed demon.

That's what it's all about!

[dburt86]

That's awesome

[chikinhed]

Well, that was the longest ‘winter maintenance’ my car has seen but it’s back on the road. Here is a list of what got done:

-Rear subframe forward attach point reinforcements which I pulled the diff, subframe and gas tank to have access to the body underside
—Modified rear subframe for easier diff removal
—Replaced both inner CV joints
—Adjusted e-brake
—Replaced driver side fuel sender
—Painted carbon fibre hood and made custom hood strut mounts, not installed yet
—Painted and installed new front bumper cover
—Painted and installed new nose panel
—Made new intercooler mounts
—Cold pipe repaired due to cut by PS pulley
—ICV cleaned
—Installed BBTB
--Installed new pre turbo meth nozzle holder and nozzle
—Made SS line for pre-turbo WI line
—Made and installed new SS lines for four port solenoid
—Replaced steering u-joint
--Replaced front under tray
—Reconnected forward hose at AC pump
—Made and installed nozzles and plumbing for brake water cooling

I have to change all the settings for the eBoost2 because of the four port solenoid. I’ve hit 23 psi a few times but not for a long enough duration to see if it’s stable to redline. 23 psi is a kick in the pants.

[chikinhed]

The four port solenoid with the eBoost2 sure is finicky. I’m having difficulty getting a stable boost curve.

[jakermac]

The four port solenoid with the eBoost2 sure is finicky. I’m having difficulty getting a stable boost curve.

Watching with great anticipation. Glad you're forging new ground (for me)!

[pbonsalb]

What about 2 solenoids, 1 for each WG, whether 2 or 4 port?

[NOTORIOUS VR]

The four port solenoid with the eBoost2 sure is finicky. I’m having difficulty getting a stable boost curve.

Because you need adjustable PID for true proper boost control.

Not sure what your base WG spring is... but personally I'm around 13-14 psi which is just over 500whp for me and I find that the perfect base power level for these cars. You should be able to get close to doubling that (about 30 psi) on a 3 port. Maybe think about going to a higher spring instead?

[chikinhed]

The EWG by itself can’t control the boost below 26+ psi with the three port. The IWG by itself can’t control the boost below 17 psi with the three port. With both, I can get 13-14 psi but at high boost I get 25 psi then it falls to 21 psi, the IWG is blowing open. I’ve tried a stiffer 17 lb spring and increasing the preload on the IWG but didn’t help.

If I can get rid of the spike and oscillations I should be able to select the full range of boost from 13 psi up to 25 psi.

[PEI330Ci]

Are you logging exhaust back pressure?

[PEI330Ci]

Also, are using a 2 port actuator on the EFR?

http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Prod...l-14psi_2.html

I would think that it would be the answer to "holding" the IWG closed at higher RPMs....

[chikinhed]

I have not logged backpressure on this manifold yet and that is the IWG I am using already.

[PEI330Ci]

I have not logged backpressure on this manifold yet and that is the IWG I am using already.

Maybe try using CO2 for the waste gate control?

[chikinhed]

I did some more testing tonight.

This is with SP=40, GP=16, SN=12, RP1=056, RP2=072, FAC=12



This is with SP=54, GP=10, SN=12, RP1=056, RP2=072, FAC=20



It’s getting better. Keep in mind that I was in third gear and the traction control was intervinig.

I did some reading and found someone else’s suggestion when setting up a four port was to set GP and SN to zero and go up from there until the boost curve becomes unstable. That’s next on my list.

[vollosso]

Is that 1800 or 1600 on the egt up top??
12.9 afr??




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[chikinhed]

It’s 1600°F. I still have unknown afr’s as all four wide bands have four totally different readings. It’s probable that the true reading is lean based on the egt readings. I have an older version of the ZT-2 installed now but I’ll be installing the newest version in the next week. Since the datalog I’ve added more meth and a bottle of Torco just to be safe.

I don’t like having multiple issues at the same time but that’s what I’m dealing with. I’ll double check my fuel pressure again. I was hoping that I could get the boost stablized and by then the new ZT-2 would be installed and I could provide Jordan with some datalogs and get a revision. Even in closed loop, <30% TPS, I think it’s too lean as it’s not smooth when it swings to lean, >15:1 on the gauge.

[vollosso]

I was worried about 1800 hah.

I’d get that sorted before boost. 12.9 is really asking for it.

What do your plugs look like?


Edit: By the way I’m not trying to disrupt, just thought I’d comment the concern.

I see huge jumps in knock correction after cars get above 12.3. I recommend people set their failsafes to 12.3 now.


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[chikinhed]

I appreciate your concern. I’ve double checked the fuel pressure, I have done some more datalogging and emailed Jordan.

I had a few runs that were stable at 22-23 psi tonight. It feels fast.