[ new here; finding my way aroundwhite/gray US spec 10/1995 e36 m3 110k miles, w/complete mechanical refresh, almost stock, v. street ]
Avoid having your foam changed at all costs. Or at least specify is MUST match in density.
My only complaint with Jonni's work is that whatever he did to my clients foam made it feel like you were sitting on a seat, not in a seat. It's possible it wasn't even the foam and just the new material... I don't know, but I hate driving his car as a result.
Love the look of the Vaders. It is common practice to cut and patch degraded upholstery foam but you need to use the right stuff to get another 20 years out of them.
97 BMW M3 (s52b32) - VF-Supercharger kit ( Vortech V2-SQ supercharger, 32 pound injectors, VF tuning ), VDO/LeatherZ Gauge Kit (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Boost), UUC Motorwerks RSC36 Exhaust, Stainless Steel 6-2 Exhaust Headers, Bilstein Sports, Rear Adjustable Camber bushings, Wheel Spacers 10mm in front 25mm in back, Uprated Clutch, UUC Shift Knob, Short Shifter and Clutch Stop, Cross Brace, Mason Engineering front strut bar, Contour Wheels, Euro Ellipsoid (Angel Eyes) HID Headlights, braided steel brake lines, aluminum thermostat housing, mishimoto aluminum radiator and silicone hoses and a partridge in a pear tree
FWIW my foam was in perfect shape, it was just all the leather that needed replacing. The quality of the materials that Joni uses is great, any messes that I have gotten on the leather have come right out with leather cleaner.
I like the vaders in the car because they are 'correct' for the vehicle (and the grey interior is awesome), however, the vaders kinda suck to sit in. No lateral support at all. Recaros are def the move, or some custom cobra nogaro's using BMW fabric.
Finally flushed and refilled the differential, this time I went with Royal Purple 75w140 (after doing a bunch of reading on this and other forums). It seems that diffs that have added clutches / more lockup than factory respond better to this vs. the redline that I was using prior. After the fill I went and did a bunch of tight figure 8's in a local parking lot and had 0 LSD clutch chatter, so at the very least the amount of friction modifier in this formula seems appropriate. Don't want to speak poorly of redline - but it appears that wasn't the right mixture for my car.
Last edited by jaysonx; 08-24-2024 at 01:00 PM.
You are doing a very nice job of restoring the car to its original best driver's car of the 90's.
97 BMW M3 (s52b32) - VF-Supercharger kit ( Vortech V2-SQ supercharger, 32 pound injectors, VF tuning ), VDO/LeatherZ Gauge Kit (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Boost), UUC Motorwerks RSC36 Exhaust, Stainless Steel 6-2 Exhaust Headers, Bilstein Sports, Rear Adjustable Camber bushings, Wheel Spacers 10mm in front 25mm in back, Uprated Clutch, UUC Shift Knob, Short Shifter and Clutch Stop, Cross Brace, Mason Engineering front strut bar, Contour Wheels, Euro Ellipsoid (Angel Eyes) HID Headlights, braided steel brake lines, aluminum thermostat housing, mishimoto aluminum radiator and silicone hoses and a partridge in a pear tree
Is the Motive pump worth it for you? Never had a pump that didnt leave me pissed off, but would love one that actually works. Do you have to overfill the pump for it to work? And how is cleaning? I cant imagine a few drops of old ATF in my diff is going to matter, but it always bugged me not being able to clean the internals between cars/fills.
The motive power fill and power bleed for brakes are 100% required IMHO, great products. I clean it out with carb cleaner or similar, then soap/water and let it sit in the sun after every use. I also have a pump style extractor that is helpful for draining pretty much anything. Some of the most helpful items I have in the garage.
Last night up in NY near the Catskills, last unofficial evening of the summer.
Looks like the guys at stanceworks are now out-indexing this thread for 'E36 Barn Find'.
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Typical over described BS by Mike.
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