Hyde Motor Works Phoenix Engine build.

[Greenday694]

I know it's been a while since I posted but I have been extremely busy .
After thoroughly going over the engine and using a mechanics stethoscope, the noise appears to be coming from the secondary chain tensioner. The short chain that runs between the exhaust Cam and intake cam. So I'm going to replace everything. Chain, chain tensioner, chain guide. Hopefully that gets rid of the noise. Even though it doesn't appear to be hurting anything, nothing in the oil filter. Buddy freshly built engine should not be making those noises.

In the process I'm also upgrading to a 2.8 L twin screw supercharger. And the eight rib Drive pulley. This will allow me to go above 30 PSI of boost, with a 60% reduction in parasitic losses. The bottom end is built to handle 1200.
Being that it is a track car, meaning it will be run for long periods of time at full power, I'm realistically shooting for about 900. Will most likely turn it down, to focus more on my driving skills. But I will have a push to pass button that will give me full Boost when I want it.

This will be controlled by the ECU and the bypass valve.

I did find a good tuner, tuning Tech by Frank Smith. This guy's been tuning cars since I have been building them. Over 30 years. I honestly cannot recommend him enough.

Now that we are in the final stages of the adapter plate and Inlet piping for the hmw twin screw superchargers, I'm back to getting my suspension and the rest of the car sorted out.

I really want to go up to the cup two tires. Right now I am using the Nitto nto5s. But I'm not sure if my driving skill is quite up to what those tires are capable of. They have a lot more grip, but also tend to break away very abruptly. And I really don't want to put my car into the wall.

Quick Refresher, I have all the welded in reinforcements. Rear subframe, front subframe, front sway bar, rear sway bar. Bilstein B8, H&R sport Springs, H&R adjustable sway bars with adjustable end links. Run at the softest setting. Although many people seem to think that stiffer sway bar settings in the front of the E36 is the way to go? Goes against convention wisdom? I also have the SLR Roll center correction kit. That uses a satirical ball for the lower ball joint, and heim joint outer tie rod, closer to the ball joint so quicker steering. All metal, you joint steering column. So I can really feel what the tires are doing.

Trying to avoid going full coilover suspension. Mainly because of how much real estate I have to give up in the front of the car.

Subframes and suspension are E36 M3. So I already have the smaller diameter front coil springs.

As far as tires are concerned, I'm not really worried about putting the power down, I'm more concerned about taking corners and breaking.

Breaking is provided by six piston Brembo calipers up front and two piece 245 mm rotors. Stock 315 E46 330 rotors in the rear.

Breaking is not a problem. Understeer on turn in is.




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[Greenday694]

Here is the eight rib Drive pulley setup.

https://youtu.be/AucPLcVEtqM?si=SUWm6_h07JMQkLPt

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[Greenday694]

In the link for the twin screw supercharger

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[Greenday694]

https://youtu.be/LjbQ5xIARBQ?si=arj94w93FR2VJKJG

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[Greenday694]

Main purpose for the update is to get some feedback on sway bar settings, and what my new tire should be.
I believe that I have pushed the nt05 to their limit. I'm on my third set. Now when I'm on track, I'm constantly trying to think about Tire temperatures, and how that affects my grip. It's kind of hard to advance my driving skills if I'm constantly focusing on where my tires are as far as temperature and grip level. And because I'm doing track days, I have close to an hour between sessions for the tires to cool down, deflate, which makes it more difficult to set the pressures to where the tires are optimized.
But I do like that these tires are extremely predictable, and give me tons of feedback before they let loose. Maybe I just have to grow a pair, and put on the cup 2s.
But if running too soft of a sway bar in the front is what is causing my understeer, I could possibly learn more from running the nt05 a little longer?

So I guess this is a two-part question. Should I run the front sway bar on the stiffer setting? Or upgrade to better tires?

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[GG///M3]

Tires


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[pbonsalb]

How about NTO1?