328 only start with throttle open, fuel pump always running

[svamp1]

Hi!

I recently bought a 328 that had been sitting for 7-8 years. When I picked the car up it started fine, but then died as we were going up the trailer and did not start again.
When I got home I found that the battery terminals were only hand tightened. Tightened it and it started with some battery booster and throttle applied. The car had been sitting in cold storage and had 8 year old gas in it so didnt think much of it at the time.

I then proceeded to repair the rust (there was a lot...) and swapped in a M50 manifold while I was at it, and some maintenance parts.

However now when I'm done it only starts if I press the throttle while cranking. And also noticed the fuel pump never stops priming when the ignition is on.
When the car eventually starts it runs smooth and idle without issues. No dash lights.

What I've done so far:
New spark plugs
New crankcase ventilation
New valve cover gaskets
New Coolant sensor
New coolant and vacuum hoses
New fuel filter
Drained tank and put in new fuel
Cleaned IACV
Cleaned AFM
Checked for vacuum leaks
Pulled rail to see if it was spraying when turning ignition on and it does not

Fuel pump stops if I pull DME or pump relay

Anyone have any ideas what my next steps should be? Was pretty sure it was because of the CCV at first because it only started with the oil cap before I replaced it with a new one. It starts easier now but I still have to crank 10 seconds and apply throttle or it wont start.

[Eric93se]

Test the crank sensor, should be around 510 ohms, test the new on too, they can be bad out of the box. If you buy a Cam sensor it MUST be OEM Siemens, don't waste your time with any other brand claiming to be oem you will waste your time, yes its more $$.

You should examine as much of the wiring as possible, because I think one of the previous owners wired something to make the pump run like that.

Welcome to the forum bro, post a pic of your car when you can. To use the forums pic host you need at least 3-5 posts or something.

[svamp1]

Happy to have found a forum that is alive and well.
Okay thanks, will test both crank and cam sensor resistance tonight. Also forgot to mention it is a 1997 EU(German) car.

[svamp1]

Have now measured the crank sensor, reading 690 ohms, this is too far off? Measured the cam sensor as well, 13.8, but could not a find if that was a good reading or not. The crank sensor is also on the timing cover even though it is a 97 car, is that usual for a 97 EU car? Otherwise I am guessing it has been swapped at some point?

[Eric93se]

For the crank sensor because its euro it might be different from the 510, search the forum this has come up before. The cam sensor is hall effect so measuring it is done differently.

[svamp1]

Just want to update in case anyone searches this thread later on. I did end up changing the crank sensor as well as the cam sensor (while I was there). I did not use OEM but instead used Hella components, as there was a 1000% price differenc for OEM in my area... And the car started right up. It also primes correctly now, oddly enough. Thanks!