High idle when warm M50B20NV

[Jorle]

Having trouble with a high idle when car is warm. (900-1000rpm) Also, after having the battery disconnected the car runs very badly for approx 15minutes. ("floating" idle between gear shifts as if the throttle is sticking, high idle etc.) After the 15minutes it seems to "learn" and runs smoothly other than this slightly high (but stable) idle when warmed. When cold it seems to idle smoothly @~750rpm.

I have replaced a lot of parts trying to get this problem fixed but nothing seems to solve it;
1. All intake hoses new, no cracks & new pcv valve and hoses
2. Intake manifold gaskets new. I also replaced the o-rings for the connections under the intake. The one thing i may have missed is the hose from the intake elbow to the ICV - on the ICV end of the hose i for some reason did not put a hose clamp on it when i had the intake off, can this cause this much problems? I noticed this after bolting the intake back on so i tried to "fix" it by using a cable tie since getting to it with a hose clamp while the intake is in its place is impossible.
3. ICV cleaned with cleaners, it is not stuck and rattles well by shaking the thing
4. MAF is cleaned and seems to work, gets very rough when disconnected.
5. New TPS, coolant temp sensor, intake temp sensor, Crank position sensor.
6. New spark plugs & VCG (altough it seems the gasket is still seeping oil in the cylinder spark plug well as the coils are still a bit oily. (did not realize to change the rubber grommets under the bolts when i did this last time but this shouldn't affect the high warm idle should it?)
7. New fuel injector o-rings

The o2 sensor & cam position sensor i still haven't looked at, could they be the source of my problems or should i take a closer look on the 2. mentioned ICV hose and get a hose clamp on there? Even though i tried spraying some brake cleaner on there and it did not affect so as i understand it should not let unmetered air from there either? A smoke tester would be better i think but i do not have access to one.
Also there seems to be some oil in the intake, i noticed this when i had the intake out. Also on the now semi-fresh pcv valve. AFAIK this should be pretty normal, right?

Is there anything else i may have missed? Fuel pressure regulator? Fuel filter? Anything?

[sixerguy]

This sounds like a Coolant Temperature Sensor. What happens to the idle if you disconnect the CTS once its warmed? Any change? Check the ohms on the CTS cold and hot compared to whatever the spec is for your engine.
-Drew

[Jorle]

No change really on the idle when disconnecting the CTS. It's a brand new Hella unit. I measured the resistance on it right after shutting the car off and it gave a reading of 220ohms - i believe that is too low of a reading since the spec is 0.27-0.4kohms @176 +/- 2 deg F. 10minutes after shutting it down it was within spec @330ohms which makes me believe the car is running too hot somehow. What could be causing this?

I also changed the o2 sensor and cam position sensor today - no change. It was actually a bit worse again for a good 30minutes of driving after i had reconnected the battery. Revs hanging @1500rpm when pressing clutch or in neutral when approaching intersections. Really frustrating. I was running so badly i had to stop and check if i reconnected the TPS when playing around with the ICV hoses or if the throttle cable was somehow sticking - sure enough everything was OK.

[Jorle]

Still having the same issues. The DME seems completely crazy after reconnecting the battery. When coasting to intersections with car in gear when i press the clutch in to downshift the revs go up to about 2k rpm depending on what gear i am in with no throttle input. What could this be? I am pretty certain that there are no vacuum leaks and if there were could they really have this kind of effect on how it runs?

I cleaned the icv some more and tightened the hose clamps for the icv. It sure does move freely and i even got myself a new connector with new o-ring on that connection from the icv to intake. I also replaced fuel filter with fuel lines and replaced the fuel lines to and from the charcoal canister to throttle body. What gives?
Could it be fuel related? Injectors? Fpr? Something else? I am starting to lose my mind with this issue.

After the dme has adapted after a few restarts and some driving it gets a lot better but still the symptoms are there but much less pronounced. Idles perfectly @650-700 when started cold but when it gets to operating temperature and coming to intersections the rpms drop slowly from ~1200rpm to maybe 950rpm and stays there.
Seems to me like it should work the other way around, as in a bit higher idle when starting cold but should be @~700rpm when warm.