Upgrading fuel lines to twist on stainless

[dragon850]

Continued:
Let's get to business!
Use WD40 to lubricate the metal lines so the hose goes on more easily.
DSC_0928.jpgDSC_0929.jpgDSC_0930.jpg

The ABA 13 clamp is not meant to be tightened all the way, it has to be tightened till you visually see the hose compressing, basically good and tight.
You will need to fish the lines through the wheel well upwards. Connect and tighten the lines at the wheel well first, then connect and tighten the same line at the top. One at a time.
The lines should be the same length as a multi section junction you just removed.
Connected hoses, drivers firewall:
DSC_0931.jpg

Decided to also replace the single line at the passenger firewall, good call cause it was worth it!
DSC_0933.jpg

[dragon850]

Continued:

Slip on the heat shield before you fish through the fuel lines, heat shield should be a bit longer than the line.
Finished:
DSC_0935.jpg
And 3 multi junction hoses!
DSC_0934.jpg
Eliminated 6 clamps and any chance of leaking.

- - - Updated - - -

Here is what you need to buy for this upgrade:
Gates Barricade Hose, very tough high quality FI hose 225PSI rating, 5/16.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110986661871...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
ABA FI Stainless steel clamp, can't say enough good things about it, way better than anything I tried before. #13 this is exactly what you need for the 5/16 ID Gates hose. Comes in a 10 pack.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00
Heat shield, reason why BMW uses multi junction section down there is heat and abrasion, this heat shield takes care of both!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

I would recommend doing this upgrade on all 750/850 M70 engines!
Test drove the car 0 leaks at full boost! Awesome!!

[72tpik5]

Thanks very much for a great write up dragon. This is a very important improvement that must be done, we know what comes if we don't. I just ordered my kit.

[jayseitz]

So what your doing is ELIMINATING the [3] metal factory fuel lines that come up around the wheel well and replacing them with the new rubber fuel line covered with the flexible fabric heat shield........
eliminating [6] fuel clamps I would think makes good sense..... and I guess the Fabric shield helps protect the rubber fuel line down where the metal lines were....

Looks good, Thanks for the write up, I need to do this on both my old 750 and my M73 850 [constantly chasing fuel leaks and replacing clamps] etc etc ....

[dragon850]

Yep, that's exactly what I did. Eliminating 2 metal fuel lines at the driver's wheel well and 1 at the passengers firewall. 750il is very happy now with no gas smell in the engine bay! And no smells in the cabin at full boost!
I will also do this upgrade on my SC 850 when the new engine goes in...
The 850 had leaks on the cold start, so I had to assume very strange sexual positions to be able to get to the drivers side firewall clamps and tighten them up continuously, no fun...

So what your doing is ELIMINATING the [3] metal factory fuel lines that come up around the wheel well and replacing them with the new rubber fuel line covered with the flexible fabric heat shield........
eliminating [6] fuel clamps I would think makes good sense..... and I guess the Fabric shield helps protect the rubber fuel line down where the metal lines were....

Looks good, Thanks for the write up, I need to do this on both my old 750 and my M73 850 [constantly chasing fuel leaks and replacing clamps] etc etc ....

[fursideup]

Always wondered why TySonja is so happy all the time - "very strange sexual positions" explains everything!

See you in a couple of hours.

Yep, that's exactly what I did. Eliminating 2 metal fuel lines at the driver's wheel well and 1 at the passengers firewall. 750il is very happy now with no gas smell in the engine bay! And no smells in the cabin at full boost!
I will also do this upgrade on my SC 850 when the new engine goes in...
The 850 had leaks on the cold start, so I had to assume very strange sexual positions to be able to get to the drivers side firewall clamps and tighten them up continuously, no fun...

[dragon850]

Always wondered why TySonja is so happy all the time - "very strange sexual positions" explains everything!

See you in a couple of hours.

LOL, heading your way after I finish my coffe

[Timm]

Great write-up and pictures, thanks!

[danno14]

Sticky candidate?

Well done

[Sansouci]

How do the plastic ties hold up or are they some hi-temp plastic?

[dragon850]

How do the plastic ties hold up or are they some hi-temp plastic?

The little plastic zip ties are only there to hold down the heat shield in place, so they are just fine so far.
Really enjoy starting the car now and not smelling any fuel in the morning

[JDP530]

Ed, are you still running the long fuel hose from wheel well to fuel rails? Looks like a good upgrade to me to eliminate some clamps and the shorter metal fuel feed lines going to the fuel rails.

[Republican]

Sorry to revive an old thread!

Just wanted to say that I followed these instructions in my 1993 E31 850Ci – my first DIY repair on my car. I had an intermittent fuel leak that was coming from the back of the engine and figured this would be a good place to start, since these fuel lines seem to be trouble anyways.

Wanted to share some tips for those considering doing the job.

1. You can do it. If I can, you sure can!

2. One thing I learned in this process is that when taking the rubber tubing off, my brain, at least, wanted to grab the portion of the tubing that was *over* the metal portion and pull (or push). No. Grab it a few inches before to pull or push. It makes it easier. Hopefully that makes sense but happy to elaborate.

3. Same goes for putting the heatshield on the tube. At first, it goes in somewhat easy, then halfway through, you can't push anymore. This is hard to explain, but instead of trying to push the tube into the opening of the sleeve, instead put your hand at the end of the sleeve (where it should already be about halfway onto your tube) and do a "inchworm" action and pull that end down, creating some slack in the middle. Then, pull that end down. Reading this, I'm sure it makes no sense. If anybody has trouble and needs a hint, just reach out to me. Haha.

4. For the E31, I was scared to pull the metal lines out through the wheel well. Don't worry, they won't snap! Thanks to Dragon/Ed for the calm advice on this. Once you know the lines in the engine bay are free and clear, pull. Also, it helps to continually adjust the lines in the engine bay a little to give yourself more room. You'll see by my photo below that I was able to pull them fully out.

5. There are other lines/wires around the fuel lines/fuel rail, so be careful of these.

6. Mark your lines. I used a red pencil. For reference, the line that is closer to you (if you're looking at the wheel well)

7. Oh, and one final note, when re-attaching the new lines to the metal lines in the wheel well, thread it up the hole before attaching. It's a pain to try and shove it in *after* you've clamped it, and you increase the risk of kinking the line, etc. So, thread them through, then reattach and clamp.

I ordered all 3 parts I needed on Amazon here:

1. Fuel Line: Gates 27348 Barricade Fuel Injection Hose-15' Length, Inner Diameter 5/16"
2. Heat Shield: Heatshield Products (204012) 1/2" ID x 10' Hot Rod Sleeve Roll
3. Clamps: ABA 22013 Mini Stainless Fuel Injection Style Clamp 10-PK

Hopefully this is helpful. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions.

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