Hello, I bought a beautiful black BMW with a performance trim. The car is rust-free, with beautiful black buffalo leather, air conditioning, memory seats, car alarm.
The car has been in a barn since 1997 and is (yet) undriveable.
I started by changing the oil. There was just a black smelly mass. I also cleaned the tank and the pump in the tank. Both pumps work.
Someone once tried to revive this car by replacing the main relay (working), both sensors (working), the fuel pump (working).
That's the end of the story for now, because I have no spark. I followed these instructions exactly:Guide: Troubleshooting BMW M30 Motronic "No Spark" - bigcoupe.com
but I came to the end of replacing the ECU, which is difficult for me to get to to make sure it is really working. Is there no other way to test the whole system?
In the place where the ECU is, I found two burnt out relays, one green
8 373 700 and the other long orange without marking. The numbers on the pins are 1,2,3,4. Do you know what it is? Maybe it is missing somewhere.
Last edited by mannem; 04-24-2025 at 11:26 PM.
How do I upload a photo, ?
Last edited by mannem; 04-25-2025 at 10:25 AM.
Today I went through the whole list once again.
I came to the sensor test. The sensors themselves are 1020ohm.
However, during the pin test, I only measured 0.2AC for the gray one and 0 AC for the black one. What does this mean exactly?
Last edited by mannem; 04-20-2025 at 07:58 AM.
So I made a mistake and measured volts . When I set the meter well, I got good results. So the last one is the ECU...
The ref sensors are to be tested on ACV, one must crank the engine via the starter to receive the correct signal
Speed is about 4.0V. Ref is about 0.4V. Depends how fast the engine rotates
yes, I know that already. The values change quickly during measurement, and highest value is 0.3 and 4. I also thought of trying to measure up to the ECU socket. what if the supply cable is damaged?
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Last edited by mannem; 04-22-2025 at 10:56 PM.
Yes, measure at the ECU socket. Easy to find, the shielded wire sets. Thick and grey.
I got a letter from a company saying they can check the ECU and possibly repair it. I really went through everything and found nothing.
Are you able to translate the first post to English?
The 013 is VERY hard to repair if fully dead. One needs two 008 ECU (the US spec 533/633/733) for parts as well as the basic parts to the 013 ECU. I have 10-12 fully dead ones at the house.
Today I tested again unsuccessfully. The sigal goes all the way to the ecu. I tested pin 4 again and it has 9V when running.
What is the lifespan of such an average unit?
What is Pin 4?
I do not have schematic handy. Six pins are taken up by the reference sensor set alone. Pin 1 is black for coil. Pin 13 is brown/red for coolant sensor.
There are only about 27 pins total.
Input from the ignition switch. ECU power supply. I sent the ECU to a local expert who knows it, so I'll see, hopefully he will at least tell me if it works or not. If it can't be repaired, I'll get another one.
Oh, if the 003 KLR (knock unit) is bad, the car will not start. It would be rare for them to go, but I guess anything is possible.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ms-pinouts-etc
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
I got a message from a technician that the control unit is bad. There is one chip that cannot be bought new. It is marked 91122 RCA X 8423 and is on the S706 board. I don't know how to insert a photo...
Probably had a voltage spike, wiped it. 3.2L cars with the -008 ECU can be used for parts to repair the -013
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
I have some bad 013s if you want to buy some off me for parts. Just PM me.
I already got a working one. I'm waiting for it to arrive. The old one was damaged by an electric shock. Is it possible that the new one is damaged too? Is there anything I should check?
I am unsure what causes them to have a voltage spike. The non turbo ECUs do not seem to have this issue. Perhaps due to all the -013 specific parts, some are to regulate voltage to around 5V. When they fail, I believe 12V is sent out and kills parts.
Recommend to have it rebuilt while out. Recap it. The ignition driver. Some pulse items. Lots of small stuff.
now I have no idea what you mean. how do I check/fix it?
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