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Wheels are Bimmerworld TE:AL TA16, they're pretty light! I just hope they're strong enough.Originally Posted by moroza
Tall shifters are awesome.The hand doesn't have to travel very far, you get a lot more "resolution" on what the gearbox is feeling, and my elbow doesn't hit seat or armrest (not that this car has any, but still).
I don't know how helpful it is yet to document my failures, but hoping it will be useful someday lol.
Yep, high-temp Tesa fabric tape pretty much like how the engine harness is wrapped. I considered using factory BMW fittings too (like M60 or S54) but money and reliability come first.
Charging my new Braille battery now, probably incorrectly, and hoping that the super-low current setting prevents damaging it. Battery reads 12.98V now so that's probably enough to start the car with a jump pack attached for insurance.
150 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Last edited by circuit.heart; 06-22-2021 at 06:49 PM.
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Well, I didn't take squat for pictures, but she's on the ground!
153 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
152 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
The Magnaflow midpipe barely clears the subframe, but it does. The E36 version of it might give more clearance - since either way I need to lengthen it to clear my trans, the SpecE46 pipe is no longer a "preferred" option (I guess it's cheaper, that's it). My guess is that, if you have a factory 5-speed manual, the E36 pipe will be plug and play since it's effectively the same application as an E36 M5X/5MT.
I regret not taking pictures, but my O2 sensor comes dangerously close to nicking the guibo. I've got a very careful ziptie on the crossmember right now to keep the O2 sensor leads pulled down and away; I think it'll stay but not sure if it'll hurt the sensor long term (not much space to strain relieve). My AEM wideband sensor also barely has any space to play but if it breaks I care less lol.
The Tilton-specific Motive powerbleeder worked flawlessly. I wasted some Castrol SRF basically waiting for bubbles to stop, should've bottled the clean stuff and put it back in the can. But - holy balls the pedal feel is amazing. The pedal firms up instantly after the initial 1/4" of pedal travel, and after that, the braking force is exactly how much pressure you're putting on the pedal, not how far down in the pedal travel you are. Stopping doesn't take any more effort than a typical OEM Jurid pads setup! I was able to modulate a smooth stop literally just like before the manual brake conversion. No "truck/bus" feeling at all.
Proper street impressions on the brakes will have to wait till I have the complete set of pads I ordered (only have the front CSG's in right now, no rears yet), but it's probably going to be just as impressive as it was on my driveway.
Just waiting on my injectors to come back now, then to install -> DME chip swap -> prime fuel pump -> fill coolant -> fill oil -> turn her over!
Last edited by circuit.heart; 06-22-2021 at 06:49 PM.
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I think it's visibly obvious how pleased I am that it started on the first try. Kudos to my backyard neighbor for lending a hand - torquing the crank bolt with no fixtures (did it in-car in 6th gear lol) was not easy to do alone, but with two people, easy!
AFR's are quite rich right now (10-11:1) and the engine can't seem to come up to temp enough to open the thermostat, so can't let the self-bleeding circuit do its thing till we're actually driving around. I've got a 1281 code probably related to low battery voltage (I was using the poor Braille to cycle the fuel pump, aux water pump and oil pump via cranking before even attempting to start) so I need to rule out the alternator before I strand myself on the way to the muffler shop.
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I'm an idiot!
So, this is a multi-faceted story that I'll keep short, but I learned several things over the weekend.
1) The black and blue temp sensors on an M50 have different resistance values, and the black one is for the instrument cluster. Using two blues will throw off the cluster's temp gauge and make you think you're overheating. Fixed.
20210625_202238 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
2) There's a check valve in the deck of the cylinder head that needs to... be in the freaking head.I believe the machine shop had removed it without telling me, and me not paying attention, didn't put in a new one. Result, couldn't build oil pressure, and I suspect the new M52 is toast in about 3 miles of actual driving. 1000% my fault for not checking.
20210626_124315 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
So that was an expensive mistake... on the plus side, golgo13 was selling an S52 for a good price.
20210627_204041 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
250whp+ on the dyno and great compression numbers, and it's an engine I've personally seen run fantastic, so this is about the best Plan B I could ever find. I'll be moving the accessories, pan, and valve cover from my M52, and dropping it back into Sonata over the course of the next two weeks. Back to the crappy camera this post, that's how much of a whirlwind rush this weekend has been.
20210627_204122 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Can we all agree the Bimmerworld wheels look intense?
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Oh noes!
Neato swap opportunity tho
And yes… it looks great!
Last edited by a777fan; 06-28-2021 at 07:23 PM.
MORΩN ΛABIA
BMW CCA Member
Oh fishsticks... all that work only to lose to a check valve. I didn't know there was one other than in the oilfilter housing; where is it?
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Innocuous looking af haha.
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Got some progress in tonight, stripped the S52 down to longblock and ready to convert over to OBD1 front sump to install.
20210630_223808 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
I also went digging for the reason why this engine's torque curve doesn't look very S52-like. I get that the M50 manifold helps, but the dyno chart looked like this:
123489235_414262096405386_2664219736193633063_n by Brian Ma, on Flickr
so I suspected either cams, timing, or head work. Cam check:
20210630_132055 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
20210630_132118 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Nothing suspicious here. Runners:
20210630_223131 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Looks and feels like a little Dremel maintenance has been done. Other minor things like underdrive pulleys would help a bit as well - the water pump pulley and power steering pulley are for sale (will come with belt) actually, since I already have some of my own.
20210630_223822 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
This E36 OBDII M50 manifold conversion kit is definitely for sale, I ain't using this ever.
20210630_223828 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Noah was kind enough to include belts and beauty cover for me haha, maybe I'll be able to use the cover if I convert to OBDII one day.
20210630_223833 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
That ECU is the magic stone in this setup I think, unfortunately I can't use it till I convert the engine electronics to OBDII later down the road. Gonna keep this around and see if a friend of mine in Europe has anything to say about the 520i Siemens harness.
20210630_223850 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
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For the purposes you intend I'd consider getting an ATI balancer for that engine. I have an S52 crank build I plan on doing with 85mm pistons and will be using an ATI balancer due to harmonics of the 89.6mm stroke. I don't hold RPM high for very long given what I use my car for, but on a road course car I wouldn't hesitate.
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Quick update. My wife and I are getting better at this than we want to.
DSCF3864 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
The GOOD news is, I don't think there's any metal in the oil. Oil filter is clean as well. I think I can keep this engine around for parts or as a spare, should I crack a cylinder wall of the S52. For sure I'll take apart the PRD oil pump and see if it can be reused in the S52.
DSCF3865 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
DSCF3867 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
The only hitch was that my harness is stuck (internal lock tooth broke off, "failed closed") on the connector relaying data to the instrument cluster, so instead of taking the harness out with the engine, I labeled plugs and moved the harness off the engine onto the windshield.
DSCF3868 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
S52 now looking like the fake-trashy M52 it's replacing.
DSCF3871 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
I had one on the M52 already, just figuring out now how to remove it and transfer it over. Hopefully I don't break Autozone's puller.
DSCF3870 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Because we all agree the S52 crank sucks at torsion, I'm also relenting on the 4-puck clutch disk and pairing the Sachs Performance pressure plate with an original 335i disk. It's not perfect (a light dual-mass flywheel would be ideal) but given the circumstance, softer clutch engagement should make life a little easier for the long crank what with how many times I shift in a lap.
DSCF3869 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Last edited by circuit.heart; 07-06-2021 at 05:07 PM.
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Interesting - I wouldn't have put an ATI on a true M52, but belts and suspenders. As for the flywheel/clutch, twin disk a nice compromise.
Longroof Association
Awesome build dude, fitment is perfect! Love seeing E34s getting some love and above all some track use. Really like what you've done with the seatsI'm definitely going to take some tips from this thread and regarding the M50B30, I was considering doing that to my E34 525iT (NV engine) but your experience kinda scared me ahahah guess I'll need to research more on that
Also plan on eventually swapping a GS6-53BZ, but the engine is an M50, so things are going to be a little different.
Keep it up!
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Oh? I understand that the damper was developed for the S52/M54 crank but I was under the impression that it works for the shorter cranks as well. If it's actually tuned for the long crank's harmonic peak then indeed I would've been wrong lol.
In any case it's on the S52 now, so, maybe dodged a second bullet
DSCF3872 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Had a busy two evenings hoisting the engine in, negotiating with the pushed-back engine mounting (accessing trans bolts sucks, the motor mount arm fouls on the steering box when you're trying to lower it in as well), then just reassembling everything in-situ. Bam, it's now a whole-ass car again minus the hood, which I'll put on today.
DSCF3874 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Had a near-nightmare with USPS shipping an updated chip for the S52, but wanted to shout out RK-Tunes for amazing customer service, they literally overnighted a chip to me via UPS to arrive this morning. Installed it just nowOne last push before Radwood tomorrow!
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It'd have done no harm on an M52 just not necessary - the 84mm stroke is much quieter (harmonically) than the 89.6mm. It's not really a "tuned" setup from my research it's just that it eats up the vibrations better than the glued/rubber stocker.
Are you running a true S52 (in-block crank sensor)?
Sounds like you're well beyond this now but I ended up just cutting the lower radiator support and fabricating a bolt-in, so top and bottom rad support are removable after the bumper and grill surround. I walk the engine and trans out the front of the car w/ the hood off. So much nicer than angling it and such.
Last edited by 5mall5nail5; 07-10-2021 at 02:41 PM.
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So… whats your extraction and re-installation time down to now?
Awesome work. Would love to see the car someday. My parents are still down in the Bay Area so we might be able to meet up at some point.
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The in-block crank sensor is there, but for now, I'm using a 413 DME and the M50 timing-cover crank sensor. The block is a genuine, stamped S52.
Technically could do the whole out/move accessories/in process in less than two days, but I'm neither a pro mechanic nor have time for that so it's about 16-20hrs of spread out work.So… whats your extraction and re-installation time down to now?
Awesome work. Would love to see the car someday. My parents are still down in the Bay Area so we might be able to meet up at some point.
I'll present the good news first - the car runs, I sorted out a bunch of silly harness mistakes and the S52 is so far happy. Also, Arizona crew Danny, Dane and Kurtis have once again come to NorCal! We managed to take the three E34's around with no issues, big sigh of relief for me. There are some minor bugs left (clutch pedal too low, brake pedal too high, DME code 1281 for some unknown reason) but these all have known fixes, just need some time.
DSCF3875 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
DSCF3877 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
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Cool - did you leave the tooth ring on the crank I hope? I've always left them as it's not definitive as to whether the ring plays into the balance of the crank or not. I figure it should stay considering the engines run that way, even if put into OBD1 blocks.
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I think the ring is important - I had it removed when I built the M50B30 and that engine just did not rev smoothly up top no matter what I did to balance everything else. All these rounds of experiments have taught me "don't over-optimize" -- it's such a low-reward high-risk gamble that apparently I just can't get right haha.
With the engine good to go for now, attention turns to fixing my stupid rear end. The BIGGEST thank you goes to Danny, Dane and Kurtis from Arizona again as they made a second trip up to 1) checkout Radwood NorCal but 2) help me figure out how to extract the awful Delrin RTABs I put in one highly misguided evening. The answer, as is often the case:
DSCF3934 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Did you know? Delrin burns like a candle, just more lit - it drips literal blue fire that spreads along the ground or ignites the cardboard that you're lying down on.
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I also have delrin RTABs. I think mine are from... AKG? I forget. Where were you issues with them? Mine seem to have imprints from the bolts/washers - going to have to replace them. What're you going with?
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The loss of the rear dogbones causes all the side load to re-route through the RTABs, so 1) the Delrin part has to be super stiff to hold all of that, now we risk killing the subframe itself (so far never got to that point, whew), 2) the Delrin binds under side load, 3) the rear steer mechanic of the original dogbone'd suspension is gone, and 4) I noticed my alignment would slip if I hit a bump mid-corner, and it doesn't take a WHOLE lot of load to do that. I had to crank the eccentric bolts like crazy to keep the settings from slipping.
Sure I could band-aid the problem with toothed adjusters for both camber and toe, but I'd like to get that brilliant rear-steer back anyways so it's either back to poly bushings or pressing in M5 sliders. I'd do poly again except for the part where I already tore a set last track day.
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Yeah I have something similar going on - when I run my 275 - 295 Mickey Thompson ET Streets and get the car under heavy load (acceleration, but high torque) I can feel the car rear steer slightly to the right, and recenter again when I get out of it. When I put standard 255 - 275 street tires on (17" so something with lower sidewall) the rear stays better. I may go back to something more ordinary.
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So I was checking out the IMSA M5's, and it's possible that they used rubber RTABs even with whatever tires they were using to race with. I don't have the balls to risk wasting time on it, but it'd be really nice if you could just forever swap in disposable 525i trailing arms lol.
Made some progress on the slide bearings. The tool from Angry Ass is not really optimized for in-situ use (it's intended for a vertical press), so I designed one that is. Big kudos to DanielK for machining it quickly. Makes life easy when you're on your back under a car on jackstands.
DSCF4417 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
I've got the two cups designed such that when you bottom everything out, the slide bearing is centered in the arm's pocket.
DSCF4418 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Test hit - very gentle, I seated the slide bearing straight first with just hand tools. Once I could tell it was going straight, then I went slowly with an impact gun, letting the nut and bolt cool down before risking a snap.
DSCF4422 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Turns out, class 12.9 hardware is pretty hard
DSCF4424 by Brian Ma, on Flickr
Almost back on the road! Next step is to update the midpipe with a new cat.
MORΩN ΛABIA
BMW CCA Member
What's the thread on that rod? 12.9 M12x1.75, or did you find a finer thread somewhere? Putting new RTABs in is one thing, but extracting old ones is another. Tightest bushings I've ever pressed; twisted my 20-ton H-frame like a helix before I made a custom narrow press bed to better distribute the load, then let go with a bang that would've made my Mosin jealous.
Last edited by moroza; 07-22-2021 at 11:44 PM.
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