When I have a sec in the next few weeks I am going to drop the oil pan and safety wire the nut. I assume I should drill it for the oil return while off.
Should I just blow the oil drain plug to 1/2 NPT, or should I aim to make another fitting higher in the pan?
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Do you guys usually take cams off the head before dropping the head at the machine shop, or leave them on? Or does it depend on the shop?
Related, but does anyone have a shop recommendation in RI?
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Dropped the oil pan this afternoon so I can safety wire the nut and drill and tap the drain plug with the pan out. It was kind of a pain, but was a good learning experience. Also got to use a cherry picker for the first time. Hope I didn't break anything, but I think i am good.
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Looking good. Safety wire is the cheapest/most effective way to secure the oil pump nut. As for the turbo drain, I had my oil pan drilled up high but I think the crankcase pressure backs up the oil allowing it to come out of the turbo intake during FLT. I think a scavenge pump would help but you're just adding another potential failure point. Removing the oil pan bolt and hooking up a return line to your turbo with a vent to atmosphere seems like the way to go. Butters mentioned this method and it is the route I plan on taking. Oil in your fmic piping and maf gets old.
Thabks. Picked uo a 5/8 T fitting to give it skme space for expansion. I also Installed the rally road bracket arm and OPN and tapped the drain plug to 1/2 NPT. I am cleaning the oil pan gasket surface with scotch bright pads, but there is some really stubborn gunk on the outer portion of the surface.
Is it generally okay to go at it with a wire wheel? Or do I risk scratching up the surface too much?
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These work
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Well, that whole drilling tapping drain to 1/2 npt is really catching on.
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Drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT in the intake. Threads were tight and supplemented with some epoxy on threads, so should seal. I will either be safety wiring and epoxy the icv fitting, or follow Butter's lead with a sharkbite fitting. It probably depend how patient I am.
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That fitting next to the vacuum booster port will likely interfere with your dip stick. I inserted a 90* street elbow in that location to clear it..
WOT
Balls. Thanks for pointing that out. Rookie mistake. My oil pan and thus dipstick is out right now, so I didn't even consider that interference. I guess I will hold my breath and see how it lines up and whether I can snake it.
Edit. Butters gets away with it in this pic, so I am optimistic. I assume s/m52 is the same oil pan and dipstock location?
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Last edited by drstuess; 02-28-2018 at 09:08 PM.
You can twist and move the dip stick tube. Won't be a problem. It rotates very easy when unbolted
I leave mine unbolted and vented side ccv tube a Air filter for venting.
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That crooked fitting may leak after pressure is applied to it
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Yeah I was a little bummed at how that came out; I need to get better at getting my drilling orthogonal. It is drilled into one of those extrusions, so there is probably half an inch of thread engagement though. Fitting isn't actually cocked, just the hole and tap goes in a couple degrees off vertical. Fingers crossed, and I will slow this stuff down going forward so it doenst cute me in the ass.
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Get a bit and tap them out to 1/8 npt
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Yeah, they are both drilled and tapped to 1/8 NPT. Threads were good and plenty of material through the entirety of the extrusion. I also did not run the NPT tap all the way through ( to it's widest point), so the fitting was very tight when secured.
Overall, the thread to thread engagement is very good tight over the length of the whole extrusion, it's just the axis of the helix that is a little off plum. I am getting defensive, but I think it sealed pretty well. I appreciate pointing that out, and I will keep an eye on it. Time will tell.
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Vacuum and boost leaks are really, really annoying. I've only been at this for a year or so and I can tell you I've had my fair share
No need to get defensive, everyone is here to help. I can comment because I've had fittings look worse than that before. Mine we're no where near perfect (still aren't) but they do the trick
Understand, and I really appreciate the help based on all your experiences. I wasn't truly defensive, just trying to joke that I was defending the fitting too much just in hopes it doesn't leak.
In other news, oil pan is back on the car. Snaking it back on with subframe still in the car was a pain and I needed a bunch of help from my wife. If there is a next time, I will probably just drop the front sub frame. I also dropped a bolt in the bellhousing. Thats not the end of the world, as I will take transmission off for Zf swap anyway.
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Head is off and headed to the machine shop and installed a Stewart water pump over the weekend. This was along with building a shed with the better half ( it still needs painting), as I am running out of space in the garage and my wife is getting annoyed).
Also picked up a zf and ordered fx stage 3 clutch and flywheel, oe TOB, and beisan vanos stuff.
Overall, plugging along and learning a bunch so pretty happy.
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Head is off and headed to the machine shop and installed a Stewart water pump over the weekend. This was along with building a shed with the better half( it still needs to be painted), as I am running out of space in the garage and my wife is getting annoyed.
Also picked up a zf and ordered fx stage 3 clutch and flywheel, oe TOB, and beisan vanos stuff.
Overall, plugging along and learning a bunch so pretty happy. Alos, not sure I have posted enough to post non auto related pics, but here is the incredibly boring shed.
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Spent a few hours today cleaning the block. Just went by hand with a soft scotchbrite pad, brake cleaner, and a razor. Surface is smooth to the touch and getting there. There are a fair amount of dark spots and spots that it looks like there is stuff there, however I can't remove it by hand and I can't feel any change in the surface if I run my hand over it ( it all feels smooth). Do I need to get it all to a mirror, or is it good as long as it is smooth?
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there's often debate on how much of the block you should take off and what to use...
That's about how mine looked. I didn't bother with the sanding blocks or any of that stuff
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