Anyone with the Nerptech offset rtabs?

[RandomHero27]

looking to see if anyone is currently running these on their car. wondering if they are any good and what their thoughts are. My rtabs are dead. i want to get a new set, and i want to be able to not have the toe issue when going to 0 camber.

http://nerptech.bigcartel.com/produc...inserts-rtab-s

[Novablue454]

Dont have them, but want them. I am currently using the garagastic offset delrin ones and....gross.

[Piner]

Those don't look like they have much articulation in twist. Probably not much better than poly or delrin bushings. Looks like they have less than a 1/8th inch misalignment in any direction.

[Novablue454]

https://store.garagistic.com/BMW-E36...g-arm-bushings

These are the ones I have. They work but I did not have a good time ordering from that company.

- - - Updated - - -

This is the one that seems to be the standard for spherical rtabs, but no toe offset

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensio...aring-Kit.html

and the nerp ones

http://nerptech.bigcartel.com/produc...inserts-rtab-s

[RandomHero27]

Yea, id def be getting the bimmerworlds or syncro design works. But the cost + no toe adjustment is a downside.

[Jrcanes55]

Dont have them, but want them. I am currently using the garagastic offset delrin ones and....gross.

This ^^^ one of mine cracked. I really need the nerptech ones.

[e30 394]

whats the point of the offset, I'm pretty low running less than 2 degrees of camber. Would the normal spherical rtabs not allow enough adjustment?

[RandomHero27]

I want to run 0 camber in the rear. It messes with toe the closer you get. These will give you the adjustment/offset to have normal toe

[e30 394]

So in all stock form, low car, zero camber, do you have too much toe in or toe out?

Currently I'm close to zero camber and low and my car is toed in. My advice is to run a little bit of negative in the rear. Ive had luck with about -1 in terms of tire wear with my cars. Helps with side grip and the tire rolling over and chewing the edges up.

[Piner]

Or just don't run your car low?

The bimmerworld spherical's in my opinion are the best option. The nerptech bearings aren't very well designed given the very limited misalignment capability. Delrin is generally pretty crap since it does not have the required flexibility that joint requires.

The RTAB joint doesn't just rotate around the bolt but there is a side to side twist through its travel that needs to happen or you encounter major suspension bind and it hurts performance. I actually use factory RTAB bushings with the poly limiters with good results soo yeah.

[protomor]

Stock mount with poly limiter seems to be what most people use. I don't get it tho. Seems like it would be more likely to bind. I plan to go spherical eventually. But I have the poly limiters for now.

[e30 394]

Or just don't run your car low?

The bimmerworld spherical's in my opinion are the best option. The nerptech bearings aren't very well designed given the very limited misalignment capability. Delrin is generally pretty crap since it does not have the required flexibility that joint requires.

The RTAB joint doesn't just rotate around the bolt but there is a side to side twist through its travel that needs to happen or you encounter major suspension bind and it hurts performance. I actually use factory RTAB bushings with the poly limiters with good results soo yeah.

Half the fun in drifting is style, for me having a car that looks cool is just as important as it functioning well. I'm not a believer in delrin rtab, I'm thinking about Sycro design works, the sealed bearing seems great for a car that's not a trailer queen. Texas is dusty as hell lol. Any reason you'd choose BM over SDW?

[Piner]

Well the BW and the SDW RTABs are exactly same in function. The SDW part has a nicer appearance but since its going into a place you will never see. The BW part is $65 cheaper and uses the exact same bearing.

I like the orange coating on the SDW RTABs but it isn't worth another $65 to me.

and as for the lowness being a style thing, Style to me is just an opinion since most of the cars that people say are "Style" focused I find to be just recycled Early 2000's D1 copy cat cars that all follow the same general formula (Almost unusable low, Metal flake paint or wrap, huge wing at ridiculous AOA, Flashy JDM wheels, Huge chrome Japanese style graphics, dumb looking body kit) . I don't personally think imitating that look is the definition of style. I enjoy function focused styling because it has purpose.

I liked those cars back when I was in high school (graduated '05) when that WAS the style at the time. Now they just seem silly and dated. I can't see my car from the outside while I am driving. Only thing I care about is if it is holding me back. I always want to push myself as far as I can and having a car that handles properly makes me happier than whatever I get out of having a car that looks cool but handles like crap especially since I know how much nicer a car that isn't too low feels.

I always get setup questions from people and generally the advice that will help the most is to simply raise their car up but no one wants to hear that.

[jalopi]

offset1.jpgoffset2.jpgoffset3.jpg

Would anyone be interested in an offset bushing that uses an OE BMW ball joint/bearing as well?

The models pictured were made with arbitrary spitball numbers in my head, so they won't necessarily look the same as how they do now. I just wanted to draw up a quick model to help me illustrate what I've got in mind.

If I get at least a few interested parties, I'll go take some real measurements and make a prototype. As far as pricing goes, I'm thinking $120 shipped will do the trick. That wouldn't include the ball joint/bearings though. From what I've seen on pelicanparts, you can get a pair for anywhere between $15 and $60, depending on brand.

[Mikestokman]

They’re $75 Canadian through the dealership

[e30 394]

Well the BW and the SDW RTABs are exactly same in function. The SDW part has a nicer appearance but since its going into a place you will never see. The BW part is $65 cheaper and uses the exact same bearing.

I like the orange coating on the SDW RTABs but it isn't worth another $65 to me.

and as for the lowness being a style thing, Style to me is just an opinion since most of the cars that people say are "Style" focused I find to be just recycled Early 2000's D1 copy cat cars that all follow the same general formula (Almost unusable low, Metal flake paint or wrap, huge wing at ridiculous AOA, Flashy JDM wheels, Huge chrome Japanese style graphics, dumb looking body kit) . I don't personally think imitating that look is the definition of style. I enjoy function focused styling because it has purpose.

I liked those cars back when I was in high school (graduated '05) when that WAS the style at the time. Now they just seem silly and dated. I can't see my car from the outside while I am driving. Only thing I care about is if it is holding me back. I always want to push myself as far as I can and having a car that handles properly makes me happier than whatever I get out of having a car that looks cool but handles like crap especially since I know how much nicer a car that isn't too low feels.

I always get setup questions from people and generally the advice that will help the most is to simply raise their car up but no one wants to hear that.

^ thems is fighten words..

I can understand where you're coming from. I don't like the cars you described either, I honestly don't like most cars I see lol. I'll take some measurements of my rockers and you tell me if you think its functional (i have no idea what ideal height should be)

Also I didn't know BW kit was sealed as well, thanks for the advice, easy way to save some money!

[Novablue454]

I have to run offsets, because my car is slightly tweaked from multiple hits and even though it measures straight on a frame rack, it was impossible to get 1/4" toe in on pass rear. Now its got 1/4" in on both rears with the offsets. IDK, its odd

[Jrcanes55]

I have to run offsets, because my car is slightly tweaked from multiple hits and even though it measures straight on a frame rack, it was impossible to get 1/4" toe in on pass rear. Now its got 1/4" in on both rears with the offsets. IDK, its odd

This ^^^ my chassis is also tweaked from a few impacts. I have offset rtabs and cncd toe brackets and a thinner bolt head where the trailing arm connects through the bushing. Right now at zero camber I can still run about half a degree toe in.

Sort of related question. For those of you running poly/delrin rtabs what are you setting your rear toe to? I'm about to drop it down to ~zero so when it compresses it doesn't go crazy toe in and destroy my tires.

[e30 394]

This ^^^ my chassis is also tweaked from a few impacts. I have offset rtabs and cncd toe brackets and a thinner bolt head where the trailing arm connects through the bushing. Right now at zero camber I can still run about half a degree toe in.

Sort of related question. For those of you running poly/delrin rtabs what are you setting your rear toe to? I'm about to drop it down to ~zero so when it compresses it doesn't go crazy toe in and destroy my tires.

Probably has to do with spring rates/ride height. I cant imagine with changes much if you're on a decent coilover set up. Maybe through big bumps but not just on power drift. (pure speculation)

[Novablue454]

I'm on Fortune 8k / 7k coils at about stock ride height, 0* camber and 1/4" toe in per side. I am fighting for grip though, I would imagine with less power you would want a more neutral toe.

[tptrsn]

offset1.jpgoffset2.jpgoffset3.jpg

Would anyone be interested in an offset bushing that uses an OE BMW ball joint/bearing as well?

The models pictured were made with arbitrary spitball numbers in my head, so they won't necessarily look the same as how they do now. I just wanted to draw up a quick model to help me illustrate what I've got in mind.

If I get at least a few interested parties, I'll go take some real measurements and make a prototype. As far as pricing goes, I'm thinking $120 shipped will do the trick. That wouldn't include the ball joint/bearings though. From what I've seen on pelicanparts, you can get a pair for anywhere between $15 and $60, depending on brand.

Excuse me for being dense, but am I right that the purpose of this setup is that the factory style ball joints would be more durable than spherical bearings, while providing the required articulation?

[jalopi]

Excuse me for being dense, but am I right that the purpose of this setup is that the factory style ball joints would be more durable than spherical bearings, while providing the required articulation?

Spot on sir. Or at least that's the idea anyway. They'd have the same basic functionality/benefits of the Bimmerworld RTABs, only they'd be offset for slammed/tweaked cars

[tptrsn]

I like it! Put me down for a set please.

[RandomHero27]

So, heres the real question then. i am not slammed by any means. i am lowered on Tein Basics. on 17x8+20 style 5s with 215/40 (maybe 45, i cant remember) i needed a slight roll on the fenders because of the drop. the wheel/fitment is on point in the rear.

with that said, i know its hard to tell for sure, but since im not slammed, but just lowered, would i need the offset rtabs if i want to get to 0 camber in the rear with maybe 1/4" toe in on each side?

[jalopi]

I was also lowered, not slammed, on GC coils and had no problem setting my toe at zero camber with standard RTABs. That being said, there are lots of variables at play, so your mileage may vary