Driving my shorty sport home and when i got off the highway i noticed a metal clicking noise coming from under the car intermittently as i accelerate. I Hear lightly it also when letting the car roll. What can this be? CSB? Cv joint?
Kind of like cleo
https://youtu.be/My9W38C339w
And
Watch "E38 cv joint noise" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/0pIXia3awOo
And exactly this
Watch "2003 BMW M5 Drivrline clicking" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/XFwCldFZJPc
Last edited by purplecty; 09-07-2016 at 01:23 AM.
Anyone have experience with this?
Rear CV joint - and fortunately one of the few bits on the propshaft that you can replace
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Thanks Timm! So definitely recommended to replace the CSB and flex joint (guibo) While its apart?
As always do as you feel is best. Although more expensive I believe it's more cost effective to change out the entire shaft assembly. By the time you remove the exhaust system , heat shields, etc. With the new shaft it's one and done. it may be the CV, even if you change the Guibo and center bearing, it's good practice to change the centering sleeve and you still have old "U" joints. With a rebuilt assembly from somebody like Beyer, you'll have a new centering sleeve , Guibo, center bearing, replaceable "U" joints and CV with gasket all balanced, ready to go. Throw on a new transmission mount and you're rolling.
It was my experiance when this happened on my 750 that I dropped the driveshaft down, cleaned all of the old, dry nasty grease out of the end of the drive shaft where it connects to the rear end. Then packed it with fresh grease new gasket and no more noise. Everything else was perfectly fine.
Avenging Angel: 2001 750iL Sport Schwartz II Metallic, too many upgrades to list here..
Kirsa: 2000 750iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Born on 11/99. Sold 12/21/13
The Mistress: 1997 744iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Sold 6/7/12. You will be missed Baby..
Beyer is one of many rebuilders, I had good experience with them.
http://www.beyerdriveline.com/
Drove it to my buddys garage and on the way it had a nasty vibration on acceleration which to me would be the CSB. I ordered the cv joint, csb and guibo(flex joint).
Time to rebuild your driveshaft Purp
- - - Updated - - -
I think it's a Cross Joint
Instagram.com/nordmanmg
Your current situation is not your final destination
Whats a cross joint?
I had my propshaft rebuilt few month ago. All together ~300€
All parts new, new U-joint. But CVJ is old, as it was good, they tested it on balance machine and everything was fine.
My U-joint was sticking in the center, like its stuck, new one is moving free. Shifting improved, and from P to R or, D to R is very soft.
Make sure you buy OEM CVJ, I bought aftermarket and it was 4.5mm too long on the inside, so I couldnt lock it in place on driveshaft with that little lock ring.
Oem was 24mm, aftermarket part 28.5mm.
Last edited by nike32; 01-10-2016 at 06:23 AM.
-E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.
Im pretty sure you can replace the Ujoints in our driveshafts. I ordered an genuine BMW CV joint.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-26111229524
Trevor
01 749i sporty, build 12/00 "Sports Barge",S62
92 VW Corrado VR6,AAA
81 Delorean,B28F
81 VW Rabbit Pickup 1.8T,AWW
03 VW Passat wagon 4.0 W8 6spd
-E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.
Purp,
I had the same exact problem/noise a few weeks ago: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...s-sources-tips
replaced the entire driveshaft, including new guibo, driveshaft seal and tranny mounts too. runs like butter now![]()
"A good scientist is a person with original ideas. A good engineer is a person who makes a design that works with as few original ideas as possible. There are no prima donnas in engineering." - Freeman Dyson
Purp, parts will not help if you not gonna replace X-member/joint, and only machine shop can remove and replace it, because technically it's one way part, which had to be replaced as one whole part with drive shaft assembly
Instagram.com/nordmanmg
Your current situation is not your final destination
Im not replacing the U joints. Im going to do rear CV joint, csb and flex joint on front of driveshaft
Issue was rear CV joint. Replaced this plus CSB and guibo...
Seemed that the grease hardened up and overheated the cv joint. My buddy noticed some play in the center u joint, but at this point im not too worried...
Yep yep!!glad you got it fixed. Mine did not overheat too much so I was able to clean it all out and repack the bearing.
Avenging Angel: 2001 750iL Sport Schwartz II Metallic, too many upgrades to list here..
Kirsa: 2000 750iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Born on 11/99. Sold 12/21/13
The Mistress: 1997 744iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Sold 6/7/12. You will be missed Baby..
Bookmarks