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Thread: Driveshaft noise

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Driving my shorty sport home and when i got off the highway i noticed a metal clicking noise coming from under the car intermittently as i accelerate. I Hear lightly it also when letting the car roll. What can this be? CSB? Cv joint?

    Kind of like cleo

    https://youtu.be/My9W38C339w

    And

    Watch "E38 cv joint noise" on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/0pIXia3awOo

    And exactly this

    Watch "2003 BMW M5 Drivrline clicking" on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/XFwCldFZJPc
    Last edited by purplecty; 09-07-2016 at 01:23 AM.

  2. #2
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    Anyone have experience with this?

  3. #3
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    Rear CV joint - and fortunately one of the few bits on the propshaft that you can replace
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  4. #4
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    Thanks Timm! So definitely recommended to replace the CSB and flex joint (guibo) While its apart?

  5. #5
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    As always do as you feel is best. Although more expensive I believe it's more cost effective to change out the entire shaft assembly. By the time you remove the exhaust system , heat shields, etc. With the new shaft it's one and done. it may be the CV, even if you change the Guibo and center bearing, it's good practice to change the centering sleeve and you still have old "U" joints. With a rebuilt assembly from somebody like Beyer, you'll have a new centering sleeve , Guibo, center bearing, replaceable "U" joints and CV with gasket all balanced, ready to go. Throw on a new transmission mount and you're rolling.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by motion View Post
    As always do as you feel is best. Although more expensive I believe it's more cost effective to change out the entire shaft assembly. By the time you remove the exhaust system , heat shields, etc. With the new shaft it's one and done. it may be the CV, even if you change the Guibo and center bearing, it's good practice to change the centering sleeve and you still have old "U" joints. With a rebuilt assembly from somebody like Beyer, you'll have a new centering sleeve , Guibo, center bearing, replaceable "U" joints and CV with gasket all balanced, ready to go. Throw on a new transmission mount and you're rolling.
    Wait, what? It comes with all these parts or are you saying to add the drive shaft to my list of parts?? And the u-joints are replaceable? Link so I can see cost?
    Last edited by purplecty; 01-07-2016 at 05:05 PM.

  7. #7
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    01 750 Sport "Angel"
    It was my experiance when this happened on my 750 that I dropped the driveshaft down, cleaned all of the old, dry nasty grease out of the end of the drive shaft where it connects to the rear end. Then packed it with fresh grease new gasket and no more noise. Everything else was perfectly fine.

    Avenging Angel: 2001 750iL Sport Schwartz II Metallic, too many upgrades to list here..
    Kirsa: 2000 750iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Born on 11/99. Sold 12/21/13

    The Mistress: 1997 744iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Sold 6/7/12. You will be missed Baby..

  8. #8
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    Beyer is one of many rebuilders, I had good experience with them.
    http://www.beyerdriveline.com/

  9. #9
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    Drove it to my buddys garage and on the way it had a nasty vibration on acceleration which to me would be the CSB. I ordered the cv joint, csb and guibo(flex joint).

  10. #10
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    Time to rebuild your driveshaft Purp

    - - - Updated - - -

    I think it's a Cross Joint
    Instagram.com/nordmanmg

    Your current situation is not your final destination

  11. #11
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    Whats a cross joint?

  12. #12
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    1999 540i M-sport
    I had my propshaft rebuilt few month ago. All together ~300€
    All parts new, new U-joint. But CVJ is old, as it was good, they tested it on balance machine and everything was fine.
    My U-joint was sticking in the center, like its stuck, new one is moving free. Shifting improved, and from P to R or, D to R is very soft.

    Make sure you buy OEM CVJ, I bought aftermarket and it was 4.5mm too long on the inside, so I couldnt lock it in place on driveshaft with that little lock ring.
    Oem was 24mm, aftermarket part 28.5mm.
    Last edited by nike32; 01-10-2016 at 06:23 AM.
    -E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
    and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordmanMg View Post
    Time to rebuild your driveshaft Purp

    - - - Updated - - -

    I think it's a Cross Joint
    this, one of 4 bearing/ends fall apart

    Instagram.com/nordmanmg

    Your current situation is not your final destination

  14. #14
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    Im pretty sure you can replace the Ujoints in our driveshafts. I ordered an genuine BMW CV joint.

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-26111229524

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    Im pretty sure you can replace the Ujoints in our driveshafts. I ordered an genuine BMW CV joint. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-26111229524
    The Ujoints are peened in place, so you need a special machine to remove them. Some of the rebuilders make the U joint removable for the future. I used Texasdriveline, they replace the joint in the OE manner.
    Trevor
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    Im pretty sure you can replace the Ujoints in our driveshafts. I ordered an genuine BMW CV joint.

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-26111229524
    It must be replaced with knowledge and special tools, it is not take out and replace.
    Mine was,pressed in, then it was welded in place by local cardan shop.
    But pretty simple job it is, then propshaft needs to be balanced as a whole unit.
    -E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
    and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.

  17. #17
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    Purp,
    I had the same exact problem/noise a few weeks ago: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...s-sources-tips

    replaced the entire driveshaft, including new guibo, driveshaft seal and tranny mounts too. runs like butter now
    "A good scientist is a person with original ideas. A good engineer is a person who makes a design that works with as few original ideas as possible. There are no prima donnas in engineering." - Freeman Dyson

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kahlilj View Post
    Purp,
    I had the same exact problem/noise a few weeks ago: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...s-sources-tips

    replaced the entire driveshaft, including new guibo, driveshaft seal and tranny mounts too. runs like butter now
    Thanks for the info. Didnt have time this weekend to do this. Probably next weekend. Parts are on their way...

  19. #19
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    Purp, parts will not help if you not gonna replace X-member/joint, and only machine shop can remove and replace it, because technically it's one way part, which had to be replaced as one whole part with drive shaft assembly
    Instagram.com/nordmanmg

    Your current situation is not your final destination

  20. #20
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    Im not replacing the U joints. Im going to do rear CV joint, csb and flex joint on front of driveshaft

  21. #21
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    Issue was rear CV joint. Replaced this plus CSB and guibo...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    Issue was rear CV joint. Replaced this plus CSB and guibo...
    good work, way to go!
    1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.

  23. #23
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    Seemed that the grease hardened up and overheated the cv joint. My buddy noticed some play in the center u joint, but at this point im not too worried...

  24. #24
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    Yep yep!! glad you got it fixed. Mine did not overheat too much so I was able to clean it all out and repack the bearing.

    Avenging Angel: 2001 750iL Sport Schwartz II Metallic, too many upgrades to list here..
    Kirsa: 2000 750iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Born on 11/99. Sold 12/21/13

    The Mistress: 1997 744iL Biarritz Blau Metallic, Sold 6/7/12. You will be missed Baby..

  25. #25
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    Need to replace the trans mounts (I have them burried somewhere) and appears to have a small output seal leak in the trans as well...

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