Member
Alright so I was originally going to change my oil filter housing gasket, refresh power steering housing, install hankook v12s (open to suggestions within price range; tirerack is having a sale on these btw), plasti dip my car, and install ?Rieger splitters? but let me hear the bad news mgoods50
Case: There is white rez all over the tank where I pour my coolant, and a little bit on the big hose under it, connecting to the radiator. Still my car has ate an entire jugg of coolant since November...this seems a little excessive for a tank leak.
Last edited by EnlightenMe; 05-07-2013 at 05:48 AM.
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plasti dip. what color? . post pics of the "before"
DeuscheBag
Yeah- put all that off and take a pic of the white mess.
If it's what I think- it's stop leak garbage someone else put in there to hide a problem, or they were duped into thinking it was a good thing to try.
You mentioned white smoke? Is it billowing thick white, or just a wisp or two in the morning etc.?
How long have you had the car?
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BTW- which e36 do you have / year etc?
"It's not what you buy- it's what you build" - unknown
Originally Posted by EnlightenMe
Member
Pictures will be up in the morning, but I assure you it is the stop leak garbage because I put it in myself to attempt to stop the coolant from sinking. It leaked a lot slower...
Um I don't noticed as much white smoke or if any since I changed my oil a few weeks ago, but they used to be very thin on cold mornings and nights.
I have no cats and a track pipe if that helps.
It's a 95 m3 and I've had it since November
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I'll make a thread just for that
Going from Hellrot 1? to whatever yellow it comes out as
DeuscheBag
Mmm-K.
I was reading through your other thread. Something that was never addressed (unless I missed it) was the tune. IS your car TUNED for the 3.5" maf and larger injectors? I have the same setup, except for the transmission and stock cats (no 24#ers with auto, but I do have 19#), and pass with flying colors. I believe you're running very rich. This will cook the O2 sensor as well as the cats, and if you backfire more than once or twice- the muffler too. Also, it won't ever run right without a tune- so your performance / efficiency is off (O2 sensor adaptation is surely out of range).
On the coolant thing- It could be just condensation then. Generally speaking when the HG fails that direction- it dumps into the combustion chamber and billows thick white smoke. Doesn't mean that yours isn't seeping a little into there though.
The best advice I can give you is to pressure test the cooling system and find the leak. This needs to be done with the key in pos #2, heater temp on full hot, blower pos 1 is fine.
Once the source is identified, the repair has to be made. Stop leak is not good for anything but future problems. The quicker you get it out of there with cleaner and repeated flushes- the better.
After that is done, you can concentrate on the performance this car can give you. Think abt it this way-- the extra you're asking the car of is on a limping cooling system, which is weak at best when it rolled out of the factory.
What you have right now is a recipe for disaster.
VR Headgasket Reference.pdf
Check this attachment for detailed info on how HG's can fail numerous ways-- it explains it a lot better than I can.
Funny- this is the third time TODAY I've posted this attachment
Last edited by mgoods50; 05-07-2013 at 05:18 AM.
"It's not what you buy- it's what you build" - unknown
Member
Conforti chip tuned. A little off topic, but if my car was dead for however long (I had it at a shop, they left something on, I don't know how long it was dead for), would I need to re-do it?
I'll try the heater thing, and my mechanic will do the pressure test along with the gasket. This has become more consuming than expected.
Thanks, you've been more help than most mechanics in Souther California.
DeuscheBag
No. '95 is a real chip, not a tune and Conforti is arguably the best.
If dead for a while, ask them to slow charge the battery. Using the alternator to do so puts strain on it, and is not what it was designed to do. Will it eventually charge to 100%? Sure. But at the expense of more wear and tear. A good, deep slow charge will likely only take a few hours. I use a 2A occasionally just to safeguard extra load on my alts.
Thank you, and you're very welcome. You might mention gingerly, about the way to test (that includes the heater circuit) to the mechanic. There's a fine line in pissing someone off by offending them, and being proactive. Even the good indy's are in a hurry, and can make an honest mistake though.
And BTW- that's the difference in an enthusiast and a mechanic
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Appreciation for thkx in sig
Last edited by mgoods50; 05-07-2013 at 06:16 AM.
"It's not what you buy- it's what you build" - unknown
Member
Looks like he found the leak, for the most part. Clean off the white stuff real good and watch it every day. Also, I dont know what why or how, but mine was the bleeder screw. It had a crack in it and would somehow leak. It would cake up the same area you mention but never show up anywhere near the screw itself. Had me totally baffled until I rinsed one day when the engine was cold. I came back from a short trip and for some reason wanted to check something. Being nice, dry and fresh, I started to use a screw driver and it started wetting up. I was like what??? Replaced it and clean radiator, though, 5k later the thermostat housing is starting to leak from last PO work. Like said, the odd thing was it never looked wet (was probably all wet and blended in), and never turned white/blue from antifreeze. It only got that color around the cap area where it has the ridge between the black and clear and all down the sides of the overflow.
Member
Ha that's awesome, I'll cross that off my first world bucket list.
Appreciation for thkx in sig
Last edited by EnlightenMe; 05-07-2013 at 12:58 PM.
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