when are you putting it on, when are we gonna run 'em
Jonathan Green
Wanna run them now? I don't have 200lb extra weight (but still have the exhaust leak).
how the hell did you cut 200 lbs out
Jonathan Green
My brother won't be riding with me.
Jonathan Green
If you want, you can add 200lb with you, and an exhaust leak, then run me again. I promise you won't keep up. Promise.
your girlfriend says my driving scares her.......
Jonathan Green
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...261.16.017.00C
havnt done any research just saw this on turners site. says all m52 motors but doesnt say anything about the "tu" motors :-) but it should be plug and play for the reg. M52 guys
No, that will not work on a dual vanos car.
Last edited by Iceman00; 06-17-2009 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Any updates on this, Ice?
Nothing yet, but before the end of this month, I will have an update (or two) for you.
Someone beat me too it, in my own backyard none the less (FLA)
The only differences are is he used a M54B30 manifold, and I'm using a B25
"My 2000 bmw 323i m52tu got an intake manifold swap. Got the intake manifold from 2004 bmw 330i m54b30.
Parts need just to complete the swap are:
1-intake manifold m54b30
2-m54b30 disa valve
3- turner motorsports m50/54 throttle body adapter plate
Parts I change while I was in there:
Two hard plastic bypass tubes
One bypass hose
fuel injector o rings
throttle body gasket
intake manifold gasket
all vacuum hoses
CRANKCASE-VENTILATION/OIL SEPARATOR
All the vent pipes/hose that go with it
Also many other misc items:
coolant, water wetter, carb/ throttle body cleaner, engine degreaser, seafoam, and seafoam deep creep
My 323i has 120,xxx miles on it. If the stock hoses/pipes have lasted this long, its good for another 120,xxx.
Now what has to be modified to make this work?
Your throttle body has to be grinded on the top right to be able to clear the idle air control valve
Only two of the four throttle body bolts are used
Also the bracket that holds all the wiring will not bolt back on due to the turner plate. The turner plate moves the throttle body forward causing this problem. (no biggie)
You have to adjust your throttle body cable to be able to open complete at full throttle.
I pretty much just flushed my coolant, cleaned my engine very detailed and cleaned the m54b30 manifold completely.The swap is straight forward, everything is reused again or could be replace with new parts. The m54b30 intake manifold itself is bigger and has longer runners than the m52tu. The first 80-100 miles the car seems to adapt itself to more air flow. The difference is completely different at all rpms. The car just revs freely all the way to redline, no more choking.Well worth the 8 hrs of work and about $400 spent in everything.Any questions feel free to ask"
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...5#post10322845
Waiting on my TMS adapter plate now.
Looking for a place that can show (in detail) how to remove the Intake manifold!
BUMP! Manifold installed! But....
(new thread)
Last edited by Iceman00; 10-04-2009 at 07:46 PM.
M54 intake manifold swap:
I’m really not going to go through all the hours I spent online researching this, wading through BS post, false leads, and sparse half assed information. Whatever, now we know it can be done, and I have done it. Most people used a M54B30 manifold off the 3 liter, and I used a B25 off the 2.5. (The differences are said to be shorter (possibly bigger?) ram tubes in the 3.0 manifold vs the 2.5. )
Why did I choose the B25 manifold?
People who have 2.8 engines might want to consider the 3.0 manifold, as I went with the 2.5 because I felt its VE would correctly match up with my 2.5, and because from the dynos I had collected (I have over15 or so) on the M52/54 engines, it seemed like the 325 peaked hp higher, and held peak torque longer. (don’t take my word for it, compare dynos for yourself. 30-40tq drop off from peak to redline with the B30 manifold, 20-30tq with the B25. B25 peaks power over 6000rpm, B30 peaks it at, or below 6000rpm.)
Regardless of what you choose, both manifolds will be a step up from stock, and should maintain low en power (maybe increase it, but I didn’t notice any change), furthermore the installation of either manifold should be fairly similar (the 3.0 has a bigger opening from the TB, but that is all)
The install:
I maxed out my mechanical skills on this one. You really should have a manual, or someone who knows what they are doing near by to help. I started by taking off the covers, next the fuel rail, the intake hoses, the maf etc. One of the hardest part was the fuel system (not losing clips, screws and nuts) , an making sure you do it in proper order. Be careful with the vacuum lines (only 2 of mine were in bad shape) and make sure you unclip all the connectors. The hardest part was actually taking off the manifold, because under the TB had a Pain In the Ass bolt that was hard to reach.
Once all this was done, it was a matter of removing the brackets plugs from your old manifold, and on to the new. From there on, its pretty smooth sailing, but expect to grind down the TB to make it fit on the manifold and adapter plate. It’s nothing to serious, but just be aware. Also, the TB will only mount to the adapter plate with 2 screws. (don’t worry, it fits fine) Once we put the manifold back on, and hooked up all the connectors, we had to adjust the throttle cable slightly (the adapter makes the TB sit forward a bit) Just have someone sit in the car, and Floor the gas pedal while you adjust it.
Once your done, it should look like you were never there in the first place. Stock and stealthy.
Now the moment of truth, the question is “how does it drive”
Pretty much the same……under 3000rpm. After 4000rpm, it a whole new animal. I never thought the car ran out of steam to much at a higher rpm, but this is so much better. I almost forgot to shift (My mechanic did, and so did my brother, nailing the revlimiter a few times) at redline because it pulls so fast, and so smooth. The car doesn’t seem to peak at near 6000rpm anymore, but closer to redline, with no perceivable drop-off in power at all. I’m not sure about fuel economy as I’ve burned through a ¼ tank of gas in less than one night with a few pulls.
I would put the top end gains on par with the headers, but I can’t rate this mod any higher. The power is only usable at 4000+rpm region (headers increased power at all rpms) and this project was a bit more expensive (not by much)
I’ll update later with some numbers, and acceleration data when I get a chance. The only down sides, if could call it such, was no increase in torque (all the power is after the DISA opens) and no change in sound.
Only things you need for this swap are the TMS adapter plate
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TEN9990850
And a M54 intake manifold (do your own research, and find what works for you)
You might also want to look into grabbing a few extra hoses to replace any corroded vacuum lines that you might encounter.
Highs:
Cheap
Large gains
Lows:
Moderate install difficulty
Most gains are in higher rpm region
Last edited by toocool4657; 10-06-2009 at 01:28 PM.
Jonathan Green
time to start looking for an m54 intake manifold
goodjob! glad you like the result.
I'm not to sure at this point. Powerchip possibly because it seems they tune it for your car (based on this review)
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=707238&page=2
Or AA or Shark (in that order)
There is also supposed to be a guy in Miami who can tune, but I haven't got word back from him.
I'm pretty happy on power mods for now, I think I could use a nice appearance refresh and coulpe of suspension and brake upgrades, before I move on to the next power mod.
Do it. Check E46fantatics.com or car-part.com
Thanks.
Last edited by Iceman00; 10-06-2009 at 03:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
lol, had a crazy impulse buy moment and made an offer on ebay for one...and won it...lol...dont even know if i have the time or cash for the rest of the project lol....anybody want an m54 manifold lol
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