No Thanks! I beleive in Santa, The Easter Bunny, and BMW's "lifetime fill"
OK, sounds easy (It is!)
The underside of Jackcat's car is sexy. I just like to look at it and get jealous.
I replaced my Diff fluid at 75K miles and used Royal Purple. It was part of replacing the SEALS at the driveshaft and axles...all three of mine were leaking a little. They're something to look at/examine when doing Jackcat's DIY. The seals are very inexpensive, just takes some time to drop the shaft and/or axles.
Jason5driver is sending me an Amsoil Carekit. If there's some 75w90 gear fluid, I will replace it again at 100K miles.
Amsoil. When you care to send the very best.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Everyone is free to post links to earlier DIY's. I have a Quipie doll for the earliest thread posted by it's author.
All razzing aside. One of the reasons for this thread was combat the 'lifetime fill' b.s. from mother BMW.
Some of the undercarriage was painted black after I followed the wife home one night, and saw the glare off the suspension. Goofball details.... ...now all the hose clamps in the engine bay are black too.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Jackcat,
I have a quick question, If I am looking at changing my diff fluid at 164,xxx. should I still do it? Is the Diff fluid like auto fluid, if you change it too late you almost just signed a death wish
Thanks
Marc
Go ahead and change it. I didn't do mine until 130,000ish. Not the wisest thing, but live and learn. Also the diff doesn't have the small parts for things to get clogged. Like the valve body of an auto transmission. If something were to go wrong, unlikely IMHO, used diffs can be picked up on ebay for $200-300.
Ya that's what I was think. By the way how much better did everything feel once the flush and fill was done? Hopefully I'll do this at the end of the weekend or on monday and I'll report back.
Marc
It's hard to say. It was one of those project where I did several things to the car at once.
ya I feel ya, Im in the process of doing a lot of work and just trying to get everything situated for D-Day lol. I think I have a slight leak on my head gasket. But im trying to get everything else taken care of before I tear my car apart and drive my buddies e30 for who knows how long lol. Its just one of those worry moments lol.
By the way appreciate the help man and your HG write up is amazing
while I realize this thread has probably been inactive for a while, I've got to ask, is there any way to seal a pinion bearing leak? Just where the U-joint meets the diff, there's a leak, and I would like to try to seal it rather then try and replace the seals/bearing...
No. And deep down or right there on the surface you know in your heart there is no snake oil to add to your differential to make that leak stop. And you know any additive that makes that claim is a joke.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...n+seal&ct=clnk
You need to drop your half-shafts and do the driveshaft too. Drop all three, remove old seals, install new, button up, filler' up and be done.
Seals are cheap.
Fluid is too.
Labor is prolly 3 hours but if you knew what you were doing, you could do it in under 2.
Save your money.
www.eactuning.com for seals and fluid.
Pick an indy mechanic that knows what the **** he is doing.
All rear end seals were replaced on my car at 75K miles, at 135K now and still dry. Replaced my rear diff fluid last week with LubroMoly 75/90 as I do every two years. I check my rear seals when I'm under the car every oil change. If one started to leak...I'd replace all 3.
Last edited by bimmerfiver; 12-22-2010 at 01:09 PM.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Thank you kindly
Replacing the seals would probably be a good bet, seeing as it's got just about 295 000km on it ^^; Will see about replacing the pinion seal for now, and investing in the parts and labour for the half shaft seals and such. Tis ****ing cold out right now, and I don't feel like freezing my balls off in my garage doing all the work, and the only leak is at the driveshaft/diff section.
Gear oil can be found cheap at the local parts store, $12 for 1L of synthetic, and the seals are under $20, from what I've been told.
Please educate me, you say it's easier to come out when the fluid is warm but doesnt the viscosity decrease when warmer? 75 when cold and 90 when at operating temp? I thought that this feature was essentially for the same reason for motor oil. When cold a thinner lubricant will flow easier then when at operating temps the oil thicken for better protection at high temps.
It seem counter intuitive, but then again I'm no mechanic
1996 328is SOLD 2001 525i-SOLD 1998 E36 M3-SOLD
2009 E60 M5-SOLD 2008 E60 545i-SOLD
2009 BMW 135i FBO MHD stage 2+ (work in progress)
Nah. Hot oil flows better. Think syrup of any sort. Put it in the freezer, it's thick. Put it on waffles, it flows and fills all the little syrup traps.
Hot oil = better time to drain
Yeah that's what I figured.. traditional thought warmer fluid the space between molecules inrease thinning the fluid..but with 75w 90, 5w 40, etc the oil gets thicker when it gets warmer that's why i was wondering why it makes it easier to come out when it's warmer?
Regardless I would like to do this for preventative maintence.
1996 328is SOLD 2001 525i-SOLD 1998 E36 M3-SOLD
2009 E60 M5-SOLD 2008 E60 545i-SOLD
2009 BMW 135i FBO MHD stage 2+ (work in progress)
Just go with it, Do it when it's hot.
Where did you buy the pump? Trying to use gravity seems like a lot of extra hassle and tubing.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Got it off the Amsoil web site a few years back
You have 2 options:
1. The Pump as shown by Jackcat559.
2. Gravity Fill: I posted in a previous thread (1st page), I use clear vinyl tubing and gravity fill.
After doing this job, I can honestly say that you will not regret buying this for $10.
It was so nice to just pump in 5 loads of this thing. I can't even imagine how long a gravity fill would take with such viscous fluid.
Spend the $10.
http://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
What differential oil do you guys recommend? Plan on doing it as I'm approaching 150k. 96 BMW 528i Auto.
I used royal purple 75w-90 for mine ... And it's holding up GREAT..!!! And I used REDLINE MT90 for my transmission drain and fill... Super smooth shifting...)
1998 M3/vert Cosmos Black- Daily Driven
1990 325i alpine white- Daily Driven
1998 M3/very Titanium Silver- Flooded
1989 325is alpine white-T-Boned
2000 540i6 oriental blue-SOLD
1998 528iA alpine white-SOLD
used royal purple 75w-90 also, changed at about 52K mi
2008 Lexus LS460
2016 Lexus NX200t
PUREVIP
Island Elites - West Coast Elites
Team Airrex
ClubLexusHawaii
2002 540iA Sport (SOLD)
1998 M3/4 (SOLD)
Just picked up 2 quarts of Redline 75w140 since that's what my local indy recomended.
+1 Royal purple 75w-90, good stuff, flushed mine on my 2000 528i at 150,000.
My CCV Delete Mod : http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
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