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Thread: Replacing brake booster - HELP!

  1. #76
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    Yea, I have the Porsche/Brembo calipers up front. I hate throwing parts at a problem! But, the only thing I haven't replaced is the booster and ABS pump.

  2. #77
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    So is the part ending in 963 or 965 the most current part?

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindspin311 View Post
    So is the part ending in 963 or 965 the most current part?
    963 doesn't have the holder for the pedal travel sensor, I believe all E36 M3's have the pedal travel sensor in the booster. Plug the last 7 of your VIN into realoem.com to check.

  4. #79
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    Seems like the ATE booster listed should do the trick?

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg5.htm#item17

  5. #80
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    I ordered a rebuilt from Rockauto. $155.

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindspin311 View Post
    Seems like the ATE booster listed should do the trick?

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg5.htm#item17
    Hmm, very tempted to try that booster. Didn't know there were any options to buy new under $600.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crustashio View Post
    Hmm, very tempted to try that booster. Didn't know there were any options to buy new under $600.
    And, ATE is an OEM supplier, so no concerns about quality.

  8. #83
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    Replaced mine today. About 4 hours, although haven't bleed the brakes yet. I did remove the ABS pump, I just didn't see a way to get the booster out without removing that pump, and I have a 95. That top left nut under the dash is a bit of a PIA, I couldn't get my hands on it to get it started, but an extension+knuckle and some patience worked. FYI, if I had seen that ATE from Pelican before I bought the rebuilt A1Cardone from Rockauto, I probably would have gone with that.

    Will bleed brakes then report back. Next HPDE is in 2 weeks.

    For the e36, any special procedure to bleed the ABS pump? I don't see anything specific about it in the Bentley manual.
    EDIT: Never mind...I've seen a few posts that say to cycle the ABS a few times if there's still air in the system. Easy to do on grass.


    Last edited by aeronaut; 02-25-2017 at 06:59 PM.

  9. #84
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    I had to pull the ABS when I installed a used booster in my '99, there was no way it was coming out otherwise. Used booster was not the way to go, it was either no difference or worse...hard to tell.

    On the 96+ you can jump the ASC relay to cycle the pump before bleeding. Not sure if that can be done on a '95 since it has no ASC.

  10. #85
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindspin311 View Post
    Seems like the ATE booster listed should do the trick?

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg5.htm#item17
    I called and they do not actually have this in stock/available.
    I checked a number of sources (ECS, FCP Euro, Pelican, etc.) and nobody seems to have the correct one with the pedal travel sensor connector.
    Has anyone found a source for these new?

  11. #86
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    I'll have feedback on the rebuilt one (from Rockauto) I installed later this week, but so far I have no reason to be afraid of it. There's just not much to these. A rebuilt one will have all the seals and rubber replaced. Otherwise, its just a metal shell and a spring.

  12. #87
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    I have a good used booster for sale if anyone needs one. PM me.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris1866 View Post
    I called and they do not actually have this in stock/available.
    I checked a number of sources (ECS, FCP Euro, Pelican, etc.) and nobody seems to have the correct one with the pedal travel sensor connector.
    Has anyone found a source for these new?
    So I'm running into the same issue. RealOEM says the 34331162965 part (with pedal travel sensor) has been superseded by 34331162963 (no travel sensor). So kinda out of luck. BMWNA has zero of the 965 boosters, same for all my suppliers.

    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    I'll have feedback on the rebuilt one (from Rockauto) I installed later this week, but so far I have no reason to be afraid of it. There's just not much to these. A rebuilt one will have all the seals and rubber replaced. Otherwise, its just a metal shell and a spring.
    Any feedback, as that appears to be the only source?


    Anyone else have a solution to replacing a early 965 travel sensor booster?




  14. #89
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    Ok, my 95 brake booster was exactly as pictured here in RealOEM. The rebuilt brake booster I ordered from RockAuto was an exact replacement. It included the holes for items #8 and #11. It included "gasket" #6, preinstalled. It included 2 rubber o-rings, #4 and #12. The included Oring #4 looked robust and I used it. The included Oring #12 look marginal, and I used the 'old' one. The metal body of the brake booster was not painted, and was a rough metal texture. The rubber boot that covers the input shaft appeared thinner on the rebuilt one than on the booster I removed from the car. I have no idea if that implies bad things about the internal seals of the rebuilt booster. My personal experience with RockAutos return policy and support has been extremely positive.

    Last edited by aeronaut; 03-06-2017 at 11:01 AM.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    Ok, my 95 brake booster was exactly as pictured here in RealOEM.
    Thanks bud. I already have one on order just in case I couldn't (still haven't) find a new replacement.




  16. #91
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    If anybody has a 34331162965 booster on hand can you check if the ATE part is 10.6360-1903.4?

  17. #92
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    I bought a rebuilt A-1 Cardone booster from RockAuto after Pelican, Eeuro and my local WorldPac and SSF suppliers told me ATE/OEM was NLA.

    It failed immediately. Do NOT buy a Cardone booster. My supplier was able to find one more ATE booster after I tried to order -965 from BMW and they told me it was NLA. Try your best to find an ATE or BMW 965 booster.

    Anyway, i pulled the booster without removing the ABS pump because I didn't want to deal with that full flush or the mess.

    Steps:

    1) Remove air box and intake boot
    2) Remove ASC throttle body actuator and cable (if you still have it)
    3) Remove master cylinder reservoir after siphoning all the fluid you can out of it. This provides easier access to the hard lines underneath than if you leave it attached (I tried it both ways)
    4) Undo the soft lines on the reservoir and remove it
    5) Undo the two hard lines to the master cylinder
    6) Unbolt the master cylinder's 2 x 13mm nuts and pull it
    7) Cut the tie wraps holding the positive battery cable and various ECU cables from the firewall, and disconnect the brake pedal travel sensor connector
    8) Disconnect the vacuum check valve line and pull it off of the intake manifold.
    9) Using a flat head, pry the two clips for the three round ECU connectors in towards the engine. The whole frame holding the connectors will pull up. At this point, disconnect the battery and remove the connector caps.
    10) Unscrew the 13mm nut on the front of the ABS pump located towards the driver headlight. Then lift the pump up and over it's retaining clip and slide it forward ~.5inch
    11) Disconnect the four bolts, clevis pin, spring and bracket inside the car. For this part remove the crash pad/knee bolster in addition to the trim panel. It is only 3x10mm bolts. This makes removing the booster bolts from the firewall way easier with a series of ~2 foot extensions
    12) Pull the old booster. You need to pull the studs and then the piston out of the firewall. Then tilt the booster up (can first) and shimmy it past the ASC actuator bracket, ABS pump, dipstick and electrical connectors. It just takes some wiggling and experimentation.
    13) Assemble in reverse order. Pay attention to the orientation of the clevis pin brake switch bracket and make sure the two tabs clamp down correctly or it will spin and not be functional.

    That's not an exhaustive instruction but hopefully is helpful for whoever is looking at it and trying to figure it out next.

  18. #93
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    Is everyone buying tge rock auto rebuild booster or is there anotger source?

  19. #94
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    My rockauto/cardone booster has been fine. Installed ~4 months ago.

  20. #95
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    Replacing brake booster - HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by sifu424 View Post
    If anybody has a 34331162965 booster on hand can you check if the ATE part is 10.6360-1903.4?
    I've seen that cross reference today while looking for 34331162965, but referencing cites seem to all be in UK.

    Also saw a reference to a TRW part.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-11-2017 at 02:26 PM.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    I've seen that cross reference today while looking for 34331162965, but referencing cites seem to all be in UK.

    Also saw a reference to a TRW part.
    I'm in the same boat. The brake booster in my car has a line to the manifold and the sensor so unless 34331162963 includes provisions for these (all the ones I've seen online do not with that part number) I'm fucked.

    I did find that ATE still appears to make and sell 10.6360-1903.4 in europe which appears to cross reference to 34331162965.

    I haven't found the TRW part and nothing appears on their site when I searched.

    I found the ATE part here:

    https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/193895


    https://www.piecesauto.com/fr/servo-...3/74.3298.html


    https://www.oscaro.com/servo-frein-a...-4-227819-74-p


    https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/ate-193895.html


    https://www.recambioscoche.es/ate-193895.html


    https://www.mecatrouve.com/piece.aut...or00308823.htm



    They look kinda sketchy to me. No idea how much I'm going to have to take it in the ass on shipping and taxes just to get this part from Europe though.

    I guess I can always dispute it with my credit card company if this site turns out to be shady (or they'll just sell my cc # to someone lol)
    Last edited by golgo13; 10-18-2017 at 04:37 PM.

  22. #97
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    For posterity's sake, here is the breakdown:

    New part numbers

    BMW: 34331162963
    ATE: 03.7760-3102.4
    ATE: 300139
    EAN: 4006633101257


    Old part numbers

    BMW: 34331162965 (prior: 34331160614)
    ATE: 10.6360-1903.4
    ATE: 300093
    EAN: 4006633274654

    This might help people searching and trying to cross reference
    Last edited by golgo13; 10-25-2017 at 12:27 PM.

  23. #98
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    Looks like my ATE brake booster arrived from France yesterday. Shipping was one day short of two weeks. Box arrived without any import fees, so I guess these guys did their paperwork right.


    All in all, I'm very happy. Still not sure why ATE stopped selling these here in the US - but probably due to taxes and shit.



























  24. #99
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    Looks like my ATE brake booster arrived from France yesterday. Shipping was one day short of two weeks. Box arrived without any import fees, so I guess these guys did their paperwork right.

    All in all, I'm very happy. Still not sure why ATE stopped selling these here in the US - but probably due to taxes and shit.
    Although that doesn't explain why it's also not available as a BMW dealer part.

    Thanks for doing the detective work on a source for this brake booster! For the general benefit, here's a direct link to it from your vendor in France:
    https://www.mecatrouve.com/search?q=10.6360-1903.4
    (The web site is in French, which I happen to speak.) Prices are in Euros and include VAT at around 20%, which would be deducted for shipment outside the EU.

    Neil

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    Thanks for doing the detective work on a source for this brake booster! For the general benefit, here's a direct link to it from your vendor in France:
    https://www.mecatrouve.com/search?q=10.6360-1903.4

    Neil
    Interesting, there is the reference to the replacing TRW part, that (I donít read French) is sourced from ATE if I understand the reference correctly. LOL!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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