Brake Pads and Rotors ***(tons of pics)*** 540 and others!

[postltima]

Where did you buy the temporary wheel studs? Great to have when you have three bimmers to maintain and change tires summer/winter etc.

[01530iWhite]

i used 2 of the wheel studs from the wheel that i was working on to hold the front rotors in place because they wouldn't mount straight on for me with just the retaining screw. once i had it snug in place, i put the rotor retaining screw in and tightened it, then i removed the wheel studs, put all of the hardware back together, and spun the rotor...something to note..both front rotors, old and new, rub the slightest bit..any suggestions?

[rsebaf]

do one have to replace the brake wear sensor? does it wear out with the brakepads? and is there only one/axle?

will be tackling this myself tomorrow on the front axle so this DIY really comes handy, thanks!

[bimmerspeed]

great DIY write up...

[jeremy35]

Just got done doing the rear rotors and pads in my first BMW...thanks for this guide as it really helped!

One note or question, what is the plastic washer/ring that goes inside the caliper behind the brake pad? I'm guessing it helps act as a seal? Both of mine were broken and I didn't have any spares...so it may be something to add for the materials before the job.

[The Bimmerhead]

very nice write up brah! makes me actually think i can do this too lol.

i have one question tho :" a piston pusher (or a large C-clamp)"

what are those and how exactly do I use them? sorry if it's a stupid question...but i'm not really good with diy.

[bizN]

I know this was already posted about breaking in your pads/rotors but this link also explains if you have zinc coded or anti-corrosion on your rotors that you shouldn't break them in until the rotors are polished from normal wear.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Just figured I'd give my two cents =X.

Btw, How long does this job normally take? The only thing I've done to my car myself was replace the FSU and thats ez as pie. I know this is alittle more technical and Im just wondering if I follow the write-up to a T on my 530i (2003) is it really difficult to screw it up? My father tends to doubt my ability to do it which in-turn makes me a little more cautious when it comes to this. I have all the tools except for the C-clamp which I need to pick up but Ill do that shortly. I'm just nervous about taking the brake off the caliper mainly. Oh btw, don't you need to apply a little anti-shim to the back brake pad so it doesn't squeak since it doesn't touch the actual rotor? I read somewhere that needs to be done so I'm j/w.

[JoshuaM5]

Damn! this is the way a DIY should be represented, just amazing
Appreciate your efforts.

[E39NY]

First I would like to say thank you this is a great post. I have a question when I reinstalled the caliper the bolts didn't go as deep into the rubber boots but they did seem to get tight. Is that normal?

[Doc325i]

no, this is not normal. Is the pin sticking out beyond the dust boot? could mean a few things. Are you sure you tightened the pin enough?

[E39NY]

No the bolt is not sticking outside of the boot it is inside but I noticed it's not as far as it was. I tightened it until it stopped but someone told me that the reason for the rubber boots is to allow the bolt to move as the brake pad wears but I don't know if that is true or not. Any help is appericated

[Doc325i]

If it's within the rubber boot and you have it all the way tight you are OK. Those pins do slide as the pads wear, this is why many clean and lubricate them.

[E39NY]

Thanks for the help!

[keitho64]

Excellent Write Up, thank your for sharing.

[GiancarloArpino]

this is word for word exactly how i was taught to do brake pads but on volvos instead.. i think you forgot two things and correct me if im wrong.. when you remove the calipers shouldnt you clean off all excess brake dust buildup with a little file, and also when installing the pads i dont think you said to put brake pad grease which is important for squeeking

[Doru]

Nick, thanks a million. Your post and CNN's parking brake overhaul helped me do all 4 corners. Car is on rails and brakes quite nicely. Thanks guys

[EverBim]

This is awesome instructions and worked great. The only information lacking was on the sensor. So, it was a sunday and I could get pads but not a sensor. I really wanted to get this done and thought I'd wait to do the sensor later. The instructions said it was on the tire well firewall so I thought I could do it later. I didn't realize on the front left it was attached to the pad! I clipped the sensor off right at the end of the wire since it was damaged from being fused to the old pad anyway. Do I need to remove the pad again or can I just clip it on somehow?

[s car]

I can't imagine this process would deviate too much when performing this job on an i6 car like my 528...but I still gotta ask for clarification.

Does it?

I just ordered pads, rotors, and a sensor today. Installing it all the day it gets here.

Editing my post for easy future reference:

Equipment list for rear break pad/rotor replacement

Tools
*Wire brush
*Flat head screw driver
*7mm allen key or socket
*Zip ties
*16mm socket
*6mm allen key or socket
*18mm socket
(hammer?)

Fluids
*Brake Fluid
*Brake Cleaner
*Anti-seize

[musicman]

This is awesome instructions and worked great. The only information lacking was on the sensor. So, it was a sunday and I could get pads but not a sensor. I really wanted to get this done and thought I'd wait to do the sensor later. The instructions said it was on the tire well firewall so I thought I could do it later. I didn't realize on the front left it was attached to the pad! I clipped the sensor off right at the end of the wire since it was damaged from being fused to the old pad anyway. Do I need to remove the pad again or can I just clip it on somehow?

You can plug in the sensor after installing the pads. that's actually the easiest way.

Thanks for the DIY!!

[kfanciu]

Thanks for the detailed instructions & pictures. I did my rear brakes and am now having a dragging issue. Posted here. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2#post21229702

[arosner92]

First, thanks you for the great post!
After I did my brakes they worked just fine and then started shaking at about 60-70 MPH...so I got all worried something's wrong and read all I could find online about it. I learned something that I hope will help, seems that you have to "brake in" the new brakes and I'll definitely do this tomorrow. Here's the whole "braking in" professionally explained:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Get your wheels balanced/aligned.

[rabih]

nice write up

[Mulepick]

Nice writeup and good photos. Additions to consider:

-you neglected torque values; I think the caliper holder torques to 81ft#, caliper bolts to 22, and rotor holder nut to 12

-I'm surprised you didn't address the issue of cleaning and applying anti-squeal compound to the places the manual indicates on the pad/caliper holder

Good tho

[IconJB]

Just did my front rotors and pads today. A couple more tips:

1. Years of soft BMW brake pad dust caked on the calipers can make them difficult to remove. They do not just come right off after being unbolted. Generous amounts of brake cleaner, and prying them off with a screwdriver helped.

2. It took lots of force to remove the rotor retaining hex screw. A standard size alan key may not work. The rotor will freely turn as you try and loosen the hex nut unless you remove it before pulling off the caliper, by placing vice grips in between the rotor and caliper to stop them from turning. Or you can try hold it by hand.

[chillax5]

Looking to tackle it this weekend. Two questions, do you need to lubricate the slider pins (bolts holding the caliper) and how to pry off the anti rattle clip?