Anyone repair/replace LEDs in third brake lamp on spoiler?

[strad]

Just wondering if parts are available. Three of them are burned out on my 328 (same OEM spoiler as M3s). I know I can get the whole light bar for $75, but I'd rather not do that if $5 in bulbs/leds will cure the problem. A diy would be useful if this is an involved process btw.

[Griz]

They're bulbs can be bought at any auto parts store. It's cheap and easy to repair. I'd suggest pulling the light bar, disassembling, and removing a burnt out bulb to take in to the store for a proper match.

[Jahseso]

replace the whole set of lights for best results. chances are they are all on their way out.

[strad]

Wow, thanks guys. The light bar I saw online said led, but if they're bulbs I guess easy enough. I didn't wanna tear into it if there wasn't anything I could fix!

[BaltimoreBimmer]

Its stupid easy. Like 4 bucks in bulbs.

[strad]

Well, it cost me about $10 in bulbs, and visits to three different parts stores (and I still had to reuse one bulb since they didn't have enough in stock), but got it done. For those who haven't done this yet, you should be aware that there is in fact a fifth screw under a glued-down plastic cap (bastards ). I chiseled the cap off with a wood chisel I had laying around. The bulb number is 2723 (Sylvania).

[paul e]

You Might find it best to replace the entire strip. I had about 4 go out on me, and I replaced them. but I noticed that it took some 'jimmying ' of the bulbs to get them to light in the strip.. In other words, the contacts on the strip corrode over time. Most E36s are old enough, by this time, so that you might consider a strip replacement if you cant get the new bulbs to stay lit.. One problem I kept having is that Id get them all to light, but after screwing in the strip and closing the trunk, 1 or two would be out again. Corrosion and Bad Contacts...

[mikea128]

just did this yesterday since NC apparently passed a law requiring ALL bulbs in spoiler strips to light up and I had a couple out. Did them all with Sylvania 2723 and at least on the first attempt it lit right up and looked great. There definitely was a ton of corrosion on one of the bulb sockets, but I think I cleaned it up relatively well. If this starts to fail, the next step will be some good contact cleaner. Bulbs were about $2 for a 2 pack at Advance Auto. I wonder if anyone has tried some LED bulbs in there? I'm not a fan of overdoing the LED thing, but it really seems like that strip SHOULD be an LED. If this weren't an early-mid 90s design, it probably would have been.

Not too many people drive my car, but the rare times I'd get behind my car with someone else driving, those burned out bulbs would drive me absolutely nuts. It looked pretty ghetto. I guess I should thank NC for this new law, even if it did delay my inspection.

[gamberroski]

What about Taillights??? do the same as the third brake??? has anyone done it?

[M3amazesme]

Okay, I wasn't about to make a new thread when one existed. I recieved a couple pm's about the problems with burnt out lights. I did mine last night and could take some pics but you guys are smart enough if I describe it for you.

1)remove the spoiler light via the two screws on the each side and pull it out.
2)remove the plug in the back of the light bar
3)Next there should be 5 tiny silver screws in the back. One is in the middle. Mine was already there with nothing covering it but after reading other people's problems there may be something covering that middle screw. You may need to chisel it off or something to that effect.
4)After all the screws are out just go ahead and pry the two pieces apart. The gasket most likely will be shot as this is where your original problems are coming from. I just went ahead when putting it back together I used some silicone caulk. Anything to waterproof it.
5)Now that you have the assembly apart there are 7 bulbs. I went ahead and replaced all of them with Sylvania 2723's. (I found them at Advanced Auto). Before I threw those bulbs in there is two seperate metal conductor strips. Go ahead and pull both of those out. Don't worry just pry one end and you should be able to figure out how to pull it out.
6)Mine had corrosion on the bulb contacts so I took some sandpaper and cleaned them up till I had clean metal. I cleaned up some other rusty spots and then put the strips back into the housing. Then just put your bulbs in. Make sure your bulbs have the outside contacts inline and touching the metal strips. I found that they move pretty easily when putting them in and out.
7) Put back together this tedious project. Before putting the housing back together go head and test out the lights first.

Sorry if this was long and drawn out but I thought I would give as much detail as possible to avoid and confusion or future questions.

[Roofus]

Okay, I wasn't about to make a new thread when one existed. I recieved a couple pm's about the problems with burnt out lights. I did mine last night and could take some pics but you guys are smart enough if I describe it for you.

1)remove the spoiler light via the two screws on the each side and pull it out.
2)remove the plug in the back of the light bar
3)Next there should be 5 tiny silver screws in the back. One is in the middle. Mine was already there with nothing covering it but after reading other people's problems there may be something covering that middle screw. You may need to chisel it off or something to that effect.
4)After all the screws are out just go ahead and pry the two pieces apart. The gasket most likely will be shot as this is where your original problems are coming from. I just went ahead when putting it back together I used some silicone caulk. Anything to waterproof it.
5)Now that you have the assembly apart there are 7 bulbs. I went ahead and replaced all of them with Sylvania 2723's. (I found them at Advanced Auto). Before I threw those bulbs in there is two seperate metal conductor strips. Go ahead and pull both of those out. Don't worry just pry one end and you should be able to figure out how to pull it out.
6)Mine had corrosion on the bulb contacts so I took some sandpaper and cleaned them up till I had clean metal. I cleaned up some other rusty spots and then put the strips back into the housing. Then just put your bulbs in. Make sure your bulbs have the outside contacts inline and touching the metal strips. I found that they move pretty easily when putting them in and out.
7) Put back together this tedious project. Before putting the housing back together go head and test out the lights first.

Sorry if this was long and drawn out but I thought I would give as much detail as possible to avoid and confusion or future questions.

Just did this myself. And have to say step 7 is one not to miss. You can plug the light bar in without putting the cover back on to test it out. Big time saver if you do have corrosion and one of them doesn't light up.

[E36TitanM3]

Mine were a bitch to get all lit up once inside the housing. I had to enlarge the plastic holes so the bulbs could move a little bit. Then I had to wiggle each bulb until I found its contact point. All 8 (i think) still goin strong though. I re-routed mine to the rear deck lid in the cabin, because I took off the OEM spoiler. The weather cant get to it in there

[das borgen]

Well, it cost me about $10 in bulbs, and visits to three different parts stores (and I still had to reuse one bulb since they didn't have enough in stock), but got it done. For those who haven't done this yet, you should be aware that there is in fact a fifth screw under a glued-down plastic cap (bastards ). I chiseled the cap off with a wood chisel I had laying around. The bulb number is 2723 (Sylvania).

yes

[LuxoM3]

FWIW - DO NOT BUY *interior* bulbs from the auto store - these will either POP or burn out within a couple of weeks. (Ask me how I know that!)

Get the LEDs bulbs off EBAY. Vendors sell them in lots of 8 to 14 for about $15 shipped.

[Roofus]

Mine were a bitch to get all lit up once inside the housing. I had to enlarge the plastic holes so the bulbs could move a little bit. Then I had to wiggle each bulb until I found its contact point. All 8 (i think) still goin strong though. I re-routed mine to the rear deck lid in the cabin, because I took off the OEM spoiler. The weather cant get to it in there

I'd like to see a pic of that if you have one.

[mtdwye0]

Any link to the Ebay ones? point me in the right direction...thanks.

Matt

[E36TitanM3]

I'd like to see a pic of that if you have one.

A pic of the elarged holes or a pic of the re-routed light?

[elton528i]

I recently bought a high arch spoiler which had the whole bulb holder missing, the lens just had 7 holes in it (quite handy being 5mm tho), i ordered a pack of 10 x 5mm 12v pre wired leds from ebay, wired 7 of them together, pushed them into the holes and put a blob of silcone sealer over the top to hold them and seal it all, £3.29 GBP with free delivery, dealer wanted £49.80 + 17.5% vat for the whole unit, (they dont sell the holder seperately).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350317393330&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

oops, didnt read the post about the led bulbs to fit the standard holder, easier that way lol

[mtdwye0]

^^^^ ebay link above has been removed. Can anyone point me in the right direction on ebay (seller's name or whatnot) for these LED bulbs. My local auto stores don't carry the 2723s anyways. Thanks.

Matt

[M52 POWER!]

Guys FYI the correct part number is Osram/Sylvania #2721. 2721 is 12V 1.2W (OEM), 2723 is 12V 2.3W.

If you go with the 2.3W your spoiler will be strangely brighter and the bulbs last half as long from nearly twice the heat!

[blckstrm]

Guys FYI the correct part number is Osram/Sylvania #2721. 2721 is 12V 1.2W (OEM), 2723 is 12V 2.3W.

If you go with the 2.3W your spoiler will be strangely brighter and the bulbs last half as long from nearly twice the heat!

The correct part number is 2723 as originally stated. The voltage and wattage are molded into the back of the light bar itself.

20171008_144320.jpg

[M52 POWER!]

Interesting! The bulbs I pulled out of my OEM bar are individually stamped "OS 12/1.3"

[blckstrm]

Interesting! The bulbs I pulled out of my OEM bar are individually stamped "OS 12/1.3"

I've owned my car for the last 100k miles, but there's still that first 120k where it was (perhaps questionably?) maintained by someone else.

I've been surprised at times the things either the PO or even the dealer worked on.

I'll pull mine out and look when I get home tonight. I think I have a couple "original" bulbs still, though I didn't find the plastic cover over one of the screws, so it seems like mine has been cracked open before.

I'll also note that I read a thread where someone replaced the normal bulbs with LEDs, so I gave it a try.

This did NOT work for me.

First, the LEDs were larger diameter and required I ream out the openings where the bulbs fit. Not a huge issue, but not just plug and play.

Second, the LEDs need to be matched to one another. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and LEDs either work or they don't, so you have to buy more LEDs than you need and then match the lower resistance ones together - power simply won't flow through the ones with even slightly higher resistance.

Third, once I had matched 4 LEDs they no longer were each getting enough power to illuminate. They were super bright (too bright, actually) when I had 3 matched, when I matched the 4th they all barely illuminated at all.

Finally, I guess if I'd gotten 1.2W LEDs they might have all worked fine - but they really were TOO bright. Rather than illuminate the reflector and fill up the whole housing with light, each LED projected straight out - it looked terrible. Little tiny red dots rather than an illuminated light bar. It looked super trashy, so I didn't bother with trying the lower wattage LEDs - I just went back to the normal bulbs, and it looks great.

[M52 POWER!]

I've owned my car for the last 100k miles, but there's still that first 120k where it was (perhaps questionably?) maintained by someone else.

I've been surprised at times the things either the PO or even the dealer worked on.

I'll pull mine out and look when I get home tonight. I think I have a couple "original" bulbs still, though I didn't find the plastic cover over one of the screws, so it seems like mine has been cracked open before.

I'll also note that I read a thread where someone replaced the normal bulbs with LEDs, so I gave it a try.

This did NOT work for me.

First, the LEDs were larger diameter and required I ream out the openings where the bulbs fit. Not a huge issue, but not just plug and play.

Second, the LEDs need to be matched to one another. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and LEDs either work or they don't, so you have to buy more LEDs than you need and then match the lower resistance ones together - power simply won't flow through the ones with even slightly higher resistance.

Third, once I had matched 4 LEDs they no longer were each getting enough power to illuminate. They were super bright (too bright, actually) when I had 3 matched, when I matched the 4th they all barely illuminated at all.

Finally, I guess if I'd gotten 1.2W LEDs they might have all worked fine - but they really were TOO bright. Rather than illuminate the reflector and fill up the whole housing with light, each LED projected straight out - it looked terrible. Little tiny red dots rather than an illuminated light bar. It looked super trashy, so I didn't bother with trying the lower wattage LEDs - I just went back to the normal bulbs, and it looks great.

What's funny is when I had a couple bulbs go out a year ago I thought hey I'll "upgrade" to LED's too! I purchased from SuperBrightLED's.com the single emitter "warm white" "wide angle" version. I've gone through 3 replacements as they keep going dim on me. Further worse they look like cheap crap even though I selected the warm white wide output ones. Now that I've gone through 3 replacements in a year they're out of warranty. I complained that they're defective from the original sale but they don't seem to care... That's the reason why I've now decided to just go back to plain old cheap bulbs in the first place! I've already ordered the #2721's 10 pack from Amazon and will post how they look light output wise when they arrive.

[blckstrm]

What's funny is when I had a couple bulbs go out a year ago I thought hey I'll "upgrade" to LED's too! I purchased from SuperBrightLED's.com the single emitter "warm white" "wide angle" version. I've gone through 3 replacements as they keep going dim on me. Further worse they look like cheap crap even though I selected the warm white wide output ones. Now that I've gone through 3 replacements in a year they're out of warranty. I complained that they're defective from the original sale but they don't seem to care... That's the reason why I've now decided to just go back to plain old cheap bulbs in the first place! I've already ordered the #2721's 10 pack from Amazon and will post how they look light output wise when they arrive.

I just read your build thread - that is an amazingly thorough job you're doing there!

I can't believe you're fixing these light bar bulbs when you're in the middle of getting that S54 ready. That's just bonkers!