19 comes with the master cylinder i ordered.
I am using the Hel clutch line, pretty good quality and you can choose the colour you like, it replaces 22-25.
http://helcarkits.co.uk/index.php?ma...roducts_id=604
Last edited by ellislau; 03-18-2010 at 03:59 AM.
sorry mate which part is the "plug-in pipe"?
i already have the HEL braided line
and the transmission is still out, so install could be easier, altho i am not doing the work
ellis, ive got one just like that and now i know which parts it replaces, thank you
Last edited by 98m3estoril; 03-18-2010 at 04:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hi,
I opened my e46 m3 smg gearbox and it didn't have this big release spring. It seems that every e36 had one. All other parts are same as e36. Any ideas where to get this spring. I'm using this gearbox in my e36 trackcar.
Plug-in pipe is item 11. It connects from the slave cylinder to the master's rubber hose, it runs along the firewall.
Do you mean part 2 & 6, they are the same parts for both E36 & E46, the gearbox has the same code name S6S420G.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E4...hifting_parts/
I'm having the stall issue that Elislau is describing. When cold, it starts and runs fine. If you shut it down and start it with the engine warm, then I get the engine stall issue when engaging the clutch. The rpms fall to 500 or so, then bounce up and then down again and then stall.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
I think you mean disengage the clutch, i find it is somehow related to the weather, it happens more frequently when it is hot. Try disengage at above 1.5k rpm and reduce engine brake duration, or even disengage clutch before release the gas pedal, it helps.
I am going to do some vacumn test as i saw some surface cracks on the cap (part 5).
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...urb_air_valve/
You're right on the disengage/engage. I meant when I push the clutch pedal in is when I'm having the stalling issue. Or when starting when the car is warm.
I'm in Florida so if it's heat related that's not good new for me. I've had the car for a few weeks now and it's recently been getting into the 75 degree range.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
I have noticed it is when the engine is in closed loop after initial warm up-outside temps do not affect it, ie make it better or worse , though declutching at a lower rpm does eliminate the dip. But bottom line it should not do that and I would believe we all have the same problem.
I have a throttle body and intake arriving tommorrow, I'm going to have a good look at the closed throttle bypass porting arrangement, they could be blocked?
I'm suprised no-one else has had this problem and solved it.
A M3 3.0 friend got the same symtom, engine stall when declutch.
He initially replaced the Air Mass Sensor and no improvement. The problem was finally solved after he replaced two Cam position sensors and one more sensor on the engine, he didn't recall what it was but i believe it is the TDC sensor which we don't have this the M3 3.2.
The cam sensors' part numbers are different to M3 3.2, i wonder if the 3.2 sensors will be more relaible.
did you get your hose from overseas or in Adelaide thanks as I havent ordered that part as yet
Petero
Hi 98m3estoril I hope you see my previous message about the braided line but also who in Adelaide did your bell housing machining for you as i thought that a guy here in Victor could do it but I saw him today and he cant so if you could give me that info it would be great.
petero
Last edited by Petero635; 03-22-2010 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hi Petero, I got my HEL braided clutch line from eBay, there is a guy selling them in Queensland:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEL-braided-c...item3cab620a35
In regards to machining your gearbox; I actually purchased a second hand manual gear box and just replaced the SMG gearbox. So I have not done any machining sorry. I don't know much about machining etc so I avoided it altogether.
There is a wrecker in Adelaide called ASV Euro Spares, they have another branch in Sydney where the manager has converted a few SMGs to manual, he said if I wanted I could courier the box over to Sydney, he would machine it and send it back. Maybe try giving them a call if you get stuck as he seemed quite knowledgeable on the subject.
I also got my clutch pedal etc from them too.
You would not purchance have the part number for the support bracket for the shifter would you?
Also on this page http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...lutch_control/
Did I need to get part 14 #21 52 6 775 924 or #21 52 6 768 362
Last edited by Talen77; 03-29-2010 at 03:30 AM. Reason: Updated info
Here it is...Part #17
Bracket= http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...r_floor_parts/
Re the HEL clutch line, I just got mine from Queensland, wrong fitting on the slave side, very undersized. The sellers been good he's making a new one that matches the original hose, I'll post a photo when I get it.
The other thing I'm concerned about the hose is the 2mm bore in the fitting, does anyone using one have the same small bore size and does it behave like a restrictor ?
Last edited by DusM3; 03-29-2010 at 10:11 AM.
hey Dus, I assume you got the HEL line from the same guy I did on eBay? we are still waiting on the plug in pipe, so I am unsure whether it connects to the plug in pipe. I am fairly sure it connects to the slave at one end though, I will double check with my mechanic
any luck on solving your power loss issue?
The problem is with the slave side fitting , other end is OK.
Re power loss, going to the dealer for a full scan in about an hour, hopefully I'll have some idea.
To Tallen 77 - Part 14 yes, part 21 no (its a restrictor and not in the listing anyway)
What does "implausible timing" mean?
Leaky cylinders may cause power loss.
http://www.automedia.com/Engine_Comp...cr20050801cc/1
I'd like to know what compression values others have, mine is at 170psi across all cylinders, dry test.
Implausible timing could have been when I replaced the vanos and being full of air threw the code, or I've unplugged something while it was running, it was only the one time anyway.
I am about to familiarise myself with the conversion process.
I was wondering.. what parts MUST be purchased new and what can we get away with using used parts from say a wreckers yard?
Is it possible to use a 5 speed gearbox from a basic 6 cylinder car?
I am halfway through my second conversion and have a decent 5 speed gearbox sat here, will it fit? If so, i can put the car back together and convert the 6 speed at my leisure as the car will be stripped again at the end of the year. I beleive the 1-5 gear ratios are near enough the same, the only slight advantage is the weight?
Any help/comments greatly appreciated
5 speed from a 328/M3 3.0 is a straight fit. I have one on mine
Thanks for that,
Is there any way you can tell by looking at the box which model it came from?
Is the prop the same?
Cheers,
Paul
Last edited by goughie; 05-03-2010 at 10:45 AM.
hey all
my conversion is finished!
the car drives really well and the shifter feels tight
the throw is quite long, so might look into a short shift kit
the shift knob is also huge so looking at a ZHP too
no stalling issues at all so far, and the power is great (ive now also got a working refurbed vanos installed)
a couple things i did notice - the throttle pedals does feel quite heavy, and isn't as responsive as i would like
i noticed in an earlier post, DusM3 wrote that he altered the throttle to fix this?
anyone know any more about this?
the clutch pedal also seems to engage a little close to the firewall, but i dont really mind that at all
no more crap SMG faults!!!!!!!!!
Congratulation, 6MT is a lot better than SMG.
Hve you check if it is caused by the throttle cable, there is a thread about this recently.
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