This may be a silly question about the SMG system, but what gear setting/position (e or o?) should it be in for starting and do you need to have your foot on the brake?
Cant find any info anywhere and i have no books for the SMG
Last edited by goughie; 02-04-2010 at 07:48 AM.
Have you guys dynoed your car post SMG conversion? Am curious if the DME is registering speed or thinks its still in neutral even though we are shifting through? Reminds me of when speed sensor in my US car melted on track and the car would cut through at 6500 rpms and someone else dynoed their Euro motor with the speed sensor off and it was making less power up top.
I am going to book a dyno appointment next week just to check it out.
Lutfy
I've dynoed mine recently and I'm seriously down on power, I've replace alot of sensors and hoses, rebuilt vanos with timing correction,spark plugs,ICV,TPS, dry compression sitting around 170psi (with the vanos in the slightly advanced postion as required for starting) all before the dyno-AFR's are good , the only fault codes I'm getting are for "switch gear" (clutch input) and "can timeout"(comms to smg computer which is gone)
Since I'm struggling to make sense of it I'm very keen to see your results.
With the speed sensor off how would my speedo work?
Looks like i will be doing my 2nd conversion sooner than i thought! Got the dreaded cog warning light on the Coupe yesterday and no gears
Will be a good comparision to see if the power drops after, will also be taking the Convertible to have the fault codes read and cleared as soon as possible, will let you know what it comes back with.
Has anyone out there done the conversion and not had a drop in power?
Last edited by goughie; 02-06-2010 at 04:42 PM.
Got it dynoed:
Power seems to be spot on for a stock car (got LTW flywheel and ac removed) however the torque seems to bit out of whack.
On a brighter note, NO power loss and the car is quick (a dozen track days, no issue). So we can possibly discount out that SMG conversion does not lead to loss of power. Now that torque curve is something else. However the car does not feel weak or weird down low either.
Lutfy
Last edited by LUTFY; 02-07-2010 at 11:48 AM.
Glad to learn that no power change after SMG conversion.
The hilly torque curve is probably due to the scale of the torque value .
Y-axis torque range : 180-230
Y-axis torque value : 0-230
Last edited by ellislau; 02-08-2010 at 12:46 AM.
Managed to get the Convertible down to OSC Motorsport to have the fault codes read, nothing much to report, switch for gear recognition and 4 faults on the EGS all SMG related,
They also ran a diagnostic and vanos check, all came back ok, the boss took it out for a drive, he agreed that it was lacking something, suggesting it was not revving quick enough, and to try Premium Unleaded fuel and see if it improves over the next few tank fills.
As for the coupe, I have just aquired a 328 5 speed box, i have heard of people swopping from the 6 speed to the 5 for racing but as far as i can tell, the ratios are pretty much the same for gears 1-5, with a possible weight saving, any thoughts or comments?
My car is nearly done. We are having a similar clutch engagement problem. Important info:
1. JB racing flywheel.
2. E34 M5 Sachs clutch
3. SMG slave is currently installed.
4. I have a new E36 M3 (US SPEC) slave cylinder ready to go in.
Question is: What's the best way to solve my clutch engagement issue? 325i slave? Will the US spec E36 M3 slave work?
Second problem area:
The shift arm seems to be hitting the drive shaft. I'm using a 330d shift rod as a short shifter. I also have UUC shifter carrier bushings. I was told the 330d shifter would work as a short shifter. Is the problem the UUC shifter carrier bushings or the 330d shift arm?
Thanks in advance...
Last edited by FSUhorizon; 02-11-2010 at 11:22 PM.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
My problem was wrong bleeding technique, remove the slave cylinder, clamp it all the way in , turn it so the bleed nipple is at the highest point of the cylinder and then bleed.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
I use the 3.2 original slave cylinder http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/21526775924/
Clutch line from helcarkit: http://helcarkits.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=196&product s_id=604
i also use 330D shift and has no issue with 3.2 carrier.
Last edited by ellislau; 02-12-2010 at 11:16 AM.
SMG slave does work with the stock clutch setup, aftermarket maybe not as you may have just found.
" I use the 3.2 original slave cylinder http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/21526775924/ "
This part actually has a longer piston extension than the smg version slave, and should fit and work correctly.
Last edited by DusM3; 02-12-2010 at 05:57 PM.
I have the proper 3.2 carrier. Is it possible that the carrier was installed upside down and that may be causing the shift arm to have clearance issues? I am fairly certain that I tried installing the 330d shift arm in the carrier upside down and it wouldn't work. I could be remembering this incorrectly though as this was months ago.
Thanks again everyone for the help.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
Ellislau, have you checked the fuel regulator ? The fuel pressure should decrease by about 0.5 to 0.7 bar with closed throttle and increase with open throttle conditions, there is a vacuum line which controls a diaphram on the regulator. I also just changed my fuel filter with no change.
Hello DusM3, have not checked the fuel regulator. I find that the stall only happen under engine brake condition (eg. clutch engaged while right foot is not on gas pedal, car is slowing down, once declutching, engine rev drop and then stall.)
Why it only happend in such condition ?????
Someone got similar problem:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=305471
http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...evs-61573.html
Last edited by ellislau; 02-13-2010 at 11:49 AM.
Yes its very strange, TIS says check regulator, especially vacuum section, and then corrosion on terminals of fuel pump.
I will check the terminals of the fuel pump today and check the resistance of the motor windings, a comparison of other peoples would be a good guide. I also checked price of a new pump...$1500.
Other than this I don't have any ideas.
I checked fuel pump and visually looks ok, resistance is 0.8 ohms at pump motor terminals and from the relay is the same. Still need to check pressures.
As far as the clutch engagement goes, the master is euro m3 specific, using one from another model may not work.
My pump had the right ohms. It was the pressure which was low. I accidently let it run bone dry and the pump failed due to heat I guess. Symptoms were severe loss of power up top, kinda like a misfire but not really but it was really evident at the track, turn it and it would almost stall. New pump, no issues.
Lutfy
I described the symptom on another bmw forum and got a few responses saying they had similar problem and the root causes were related to either Cam sensor, Sticky ICV or Air Leak on intake boot.
Just found that on the SMG gearbox, it does not have the Gear position indicator swtich (part 11), anyone has idea what it is for?
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...hifting_parts/
Last edited by ellislau; 02-17-2010 at 09:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Just checked under the car. Nope do not have it either. The rest of the sensors are plugged in the gearbox in from the SMG days. BTW unlike you guys, I DIDNT have to touch any wiring or anything. Just started the car after the swap and went for a drive. 0 electrical mods/tinkering. You think that could trigger something on your guys's end? I have been beating my car non stop at the track (every weekend for the past 4 weekends) and its running like a champ (no motor/gear related issue) except for the fuel pump failure. Long and short, this swap is reliable and works. I guess its either electrical OR just regular wear and tear on sensors and such?
Ran multiple code checks on GT1. No motor related issue.
Lutfy
I have this switch ( part 11 ) installed, it is the reversing light switch.
You are correct Lufty it is not nescesary to touch the wiring at all, but if you want oil temps, cruise control to disable with de-clutching then there is no other choice.
As far as running issues goes, settled that its not smg related, but prior to the swap were being masked by the smg doing the rev matching.
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