Guys , a word of caution when replacing the bellhousing from another gearbox.
I had a bellhousing which had come off a broken unit , the reason I didn't use it was that the specialists doing the heavy lifting for me specifically warned me against using another boxes bellhousing due to the fact that upon assembly each box is shimmed on the main shaft to obtain a specific bearing preload, and when you change bellhousings that preload changes, possibly causing binding or incorrect clearance between the main gear shafts.
Which is actually the main reason this thread exists. Now having said this , maybe my info can be proven wrong-making things very much simpler for all.
Oh and by the way, I noticed how hard it was to push my accelerator pedal in and decided to remove the potentiometer attached to it , and also removed the switch under the pedal and replaced with a custom stop. Throttle control is now a LOT better.
I've also modified that relay in the fusebox again-I'll post some photos shortly,its more elegant than the previous contact bridging solution.
Hi Dus
Thanks for the information. I'll go ahead with my plan and keep this thread updated of any issues. I guess if there ARE issues, then it will ruin my SMG tranny?
This is the start recognition relay mod., note the link position.
The relay will enable just before cranking and disable a couple of seconds the key is back to position 2.
Hi DusM3, Thanks for sharing, what is the meaning of the last photo?
I have a question about the reverse lock out springs... Once the holes are drilled, how do you compress the springs to get the green backing piece and clip in place? My car has been stuck on this stage for about a month now.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
Mine was done in the workshop using a drill bench to press it it.
Last edited by ellislau; 12-29-2009 at 11:31 AM.
Thanks to those who responded to that question.
Wow:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=971063
Just say no to cheap reps. Go real or go home.
OZ bolt tools for $41 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-FUTURAS-S...item51a0a55203
I am amazed at the level of commitment and technical ability shown thus far for this conversion, My question is..
Can a SMG equipped vehicle be converted to manual AS PER FACTORY ? And i mean leave no trace of a conversion except VIN/original purchase identifiers. ??
Thanks in advance
Sorry Pete I don't have any more photos other than what I've posted here already, though with everbody's contibution this thread really does cover basically everything you need to know - I guess some mechanical skills and tools are required, though if a mechanic did the hard stuff for you the info is gold.
What really helps is to get the electrical diagram, (the link is here somewhere), you need the etk for parts perusal and the TIS to help you look up and understand what everything is for. I had to read and cross reference and interpret and decifer quite a few times before the parts list came together.
I would suggest re-reading the thread over and over-line by line.
Even if I took more photos it would'nt help as a lot of stuff is not in view, but as I get access I will put up more stuff.
In the meantime if you have specific questions I'll help as I'm sure others will.
Good luck
Thanks Dus I am well into the change over and have organised the parts, and have a mate who will machine my bell housing, gear box.I have removed all the hydralics and gear change units now to remove gear box and bell housing for the machining.I have allready done the electrics and thenrest will be done by me at home.
Thanks for all the info Pete
manual for ever
Confirmed that the gear shift light no longer working after the conversion.
Last edited by ellislau; 01-30-2010 at 08:00 AM.
My situation is exactly the same, I have stock setup apart from the intake, though it was the same prior.
I also have have a power loss issue, no fault codes using a peake scanner.
Had the adaptions reset and no change. I haven't had time to pull out the cats to check for blockages, nor can I find a spare-the dyno operator suggested that would be the first thing he would check.
Have you checked your power levels lately? If the engine is choking with high back pressure we may have a solution via the cats.
Cheers.
Engine power level is so far is ok. Got a few error code from the Peake scanner 14 9b 8a, need to debug. I am going to check/clean check the idle control valve and vacumn lines, i hope it may help.
I am adapting my driving style to avoid the stall and it seems to be working.
When approaching a traffic light/roundabout, to slow down or stopping form 6th,5th,4th or 3rd gear, Heel-toe downshift to 2nd gear and declutch between 800 - 600 rpm.
The M3 now becomes a heel-toe training machine.
Last edited by ellislau; 02-01-2010 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yep, I do the same thing , though I'm struggling to find a heel/toe method that I'm comfortable with.
Code 8a I believe is "switch gear"-when I had my injectors done the mechanic pulled it up and the explanation was "clutch input." I have the clutch switch on the pedal disconnected at the moment-but I had the same code prior to unplugging it. maybe its the missing switch input from the clutch hose.
Anyway its a very annoying situation I seriously want to resolve.
Just did a search on the E36 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and couldn't find information on the clutch pedal switch or the clutch hose pressure switch.
Do both manual and SMG share the same DME and firmware? if not, can we simply replace the SMG DME with a manual DME ?
Last edited by ellislau; 02-01-2010 at 10:55 AM.
There is a physical input for the clutch switch-pin 80 on the dme, its listed in the pinout table, but in the schematics its not shown anywhere, so its a mystery where that wiring would go to.
The clutch switch on the clutch pedal connects to the cruise control module.
I have an early LHD harness here and there is no input to the dme nor a plug for the switch.
Maybe reflashing the dme with manual software is a good starting point-I know it can be done as someone had theirs accidentally reflashed with the smg version and back again.
Last edited by DusM3; 02-02-2010 at 12:34 AM.
Just talked to my friend, he confirmed he cannot recall a single engine stall on his converted M3. There are at least two changes on his car different to mine:
1. the Air Flow Meter was replaced before the conversion, it is now about 1.5 year old and covered ~15,000km.
2. The DME has been Superchipped before the conversion.
Last edited by ellislau; 02-02-2010 at 07:56 AM.
Hi to everyone,
My conversion is still working fine, so much so, that i had the oppurtunity to buy a cheap SMG Coupe with a working system (for now anyway!)
It is a higher mileage abused car but feels a lot quicker than my now manual convertible,
The convertible, as far as i am aware, is totally standard, (although it was imported in 98, unsure of where from but always been RHD) i have never had the stalling issue but am now thinking the engine is not giving full power. Could this be due to the DME? still thinking it is an auto?
Any suggestions of where to start would be great,
Cheers
Hi Goughie, I'm spending a couple months in Europe from July, a big hope for me was to buy a manual version to drive around in, maybe even go to the Ring for a couple of days. Question is how do I go about finding one from here and organizing insurance, rego etc? The prices are really attractive, its the detail
Re the power looks like starting with a reflash of the dme might be easiest, if you do it before I do please post the results.
The problem at the moment is the car is off the road, have transfered insurance etc to the new one so it is not going anywhere for a while, started to look at laptop based obd scan/reset tools as i have not had the faults checked or cleared since the conversion, has anyone had any experience of them? they seem to be available to download from various (not very legal!) sites.
When you say have the DME flashed, what do you mean? Please excuse my ignorance
As for buying an M3 in the UK, there are plenty about, 3.0 one just sold for £2200, £3000 will buy a tatty but usable Coupe or Convertible with MOT (yearly safety test) insurance you will get on the day no problems but budget around £500 and road tax is £200 for the year, although the car you purchase may already have some left on it.
Keep an eye on www.autotrader.co.uk and ebay of course
I did not have access to a press, and the caps kept popping out, so i machined a groove round the inside of the hole, by hand with a Dremel tool, and used circlips to hold them in place.
A bodge is only a bodge if it doesnt work
Last edited by goughie; 02-03-2010 at 05:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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