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Thread: Tail light/ brake light failure

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    95' M3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon23 View Post
    iam having the tail light failure on my obc, but strangley its corect my rear light are not working but only on the left hand side the indicator works fine and brake light just the main rear light dosent, have changed the bulbs and fuses has any one a idea
    Im gonna bump this quote because i have the exact problem described above in my 95' M3. Was wondering if anyone knew what it could be before i take it to the shop.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dunedin, Florida
    Posts
    711
    My Cars
    2002 525i Touring
    I have changed fuses, bulbs, and even swapped the holder. Oh and the whole assembly!
    I am still getting it intermittently!

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dunedin, Florida
    Posts
    711
    My Cars
    2002 525i Touring
    Quote Originally Posted by Chasedrk1 View Post
    I have changed fuses, bulbs, and even swapped the holder. Oh and the whole assembly!
    I am still getting it intermittently!
    Note that the issue is on my 93 325i not my vert

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328is
    Since this is a newish thread, I wanna pop back in to this.

    I am having brake light failure problems on my 97 328is (manufactured 12/96).

    I was getting a "Brake Light Failure" error and my driver side brake bulb was blown. I transferred the pass side over and it worked, so I bought two new bulbs and replaced them both figuring better to just toss new ones in since i was in there. Neither bulb works now. The 3rd tail on my spoiler is working though, and fed from a BLUE/RED wire. I am getting the "Brake Lights Failure" on the OBC and I've tried inspecting the sockets, tabs, etc. All looks good. So I broke out the bentley, checked the wire colors and supposedly the left side is BLUE/BRN wire. I metered it and its 0v at all times. brake pressed or not. So I bypassed the pedal switch with a wire, and checked again. same issue. Both sides are dead. I opened up the harness and inspected the wires, everything looks to be in great shape still. I checked the metal paths that the bulb socket twists in to, and only one of the 3 tabs has 12 volts when the lights are on, brakes pressed. I've looked at both sides

    Since my 3rd light is working, i highly doubt its the pedal switch (plus i jumpered it with a wire anyway, no change). Now the diagrams in my bentley show the brake circuit going through a "Check Control Module" which I am assuming is the OBC in my dash... am I correct or is this something else?

    I'm really not excited to drive anywhere till I get this figured out.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oy vae... Ok. Complete Newb moment on my part. Feel like a total idiot since i'm not new to cars or electrical, but here's hoping this will help someone else.

    I have apparently been looking at the entirely wrong bulb on the tail light assembly. I have a single bulb on each side that is a dual filament, and I'm really not quite sure why? On the driver's side, its the left most, lower, bulb. its a 21W/4W bulb with the alignment pins at 12 & 5 o'clock. Took me a while to find replacement bulbs for it, since it was out anyway.

    So it turns out it was just a bad connection. Once i took the tail assembly and traced the blue/brn wire -> pin -> metal path on the tails, i realized. popped the bulb out, straightened the tabs, wiped em down, and whala. back in business.

    Thanks for all the good info on this site helping me along the way. cheers.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    germany
    Posts
    3,331
    My Cars
    6/96 318is
    Quote Originally Posted by Xplode328is View Post
    ... I have a single bulb on each side that is a dual filament, ... why? On the driver's side, its the left most, lower, bulb. its a 21W/4W bulb with the alignment pins at 12 & 5 o'clock....
    The second, 21W filament is for the rear fog light.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    21
    So I may not get a reply since this is so old but I have a 99 e36 Euro Spec rhd, I live in England.
    Took my car in for MOT (emissions) and they tell me the light was out, I push the check switch on the computer and its says its fine.
    Car fails MOT, and now it reads failure.
    I check all the bulbs, contacts and fuses and its all good right.
    Well I take the entire assembly out to clean and make sure its all good, put it back on and now 2 lights are out! SHIT!
    Brake light is fine, turn indicator is fine but the tail lamps that are supposed to run on are not on.
    I took the light off again and plugged it onto the passenger side, and its works fine.
    So I have concluded that it's wiring right, I have heard on here that ground wires might be the culprit but I dont see an issue there either.
    Any other magic I can try? This sucks because I cannot drive at all at night now, and not really during the day as my road tax is exp and cannot renew until I pass MOT. I have 10 days or else I have to pay for the stupid test again.

    ***Just swapped the second light that went out with the one working on the other side and now its fine, go figure
    Still not able to get the secondary tail lamp to work though, so still screwed but not as badly now I guess.
    Last edited by luvmy635; 05-25-2013 at 03:39 PM.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Bay area
    Posts
    42
    My Cars
    1993 BMW e36
    I'm having the same problem.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Placentia, CA
    Posts
    70
    My Cars
    1992 BMW 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by luvmy635 View Post
    So I may not get a reply since this is so old but I have a 99 e36 Euro Spec rhd, I live in England.
    Took my car in for MOT (emissions) and they tell me the light was out, I push the check switch on the computer and its says its fine.
    Car fails MOT, and now it reads failure.
    I check all the bulbs, contacts and fuses and its all good right.
    Well I take the entire assembly out to clean and make sure its all good, put it back on and now 2 lights are out! SHIT!
    Brake light is fine, turn indicator is fine but the tail lamps that are supposed to run on are not on.
    I took the light off again and plugged it onto the passenger side, and its works fine.
    So I have concluded that it's wiring right, I have heard on here that ground wires might be the culprit but I dont see an issue there either.
    Any other magic I can try? This sucks because I cannot drive at all at night now, and not really during the day as my road tax is exp and cannot renew until I pass MOT. I have 10 days or else I have to pay for the stupid test again.

    ***Just swapped the second light that went out with the one working on the other side and now its fine, go figure
    Still not able to get the secondary tail lamp to work though, so still screwed but not as badly now I guess.
    Pull up the wiring diagram for the circuit. You mean "failure" as in "brake light circuit failure"?

    So you checked all the bulbs, contacts, and fuses. Visually? Use a multimeter. Check for available voltage, voltage drop, and continuity. Make sure that power is going to the taillight assembly. Just unplug the black connector and do your thing.

    In the taillight housing, remove the bulb holder, check the holder with the bulb in it, it should have continuity if the bulb is good. If it's open, either replace the bulb, or the contacts are misaligned. Just use a small needle nose pliers to reposition the contacts. Pull the lower contact a little higher but not too high to touch the other contact or else the circuit will be shorted. Then make sure that the taillight housing contacts are still operational. Install the bulb holder in the taillight assembly and there should be continuity across the positive side to the negative side.

    Lemme know.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    13
    My Cars
    1995 BMW 325iC
    The brake light on my car consistently fails and I get the message that brake light 1 has failed. The left side brake light wouldn't light up, however switching the bulb housing to the other side stopped the problem for a day, both lights worked. Today I got that same message but it was the right side this time! I would assume the housing (the black plastic thing the bulb clips into) is bad but isn't it just a few strips of metal touching the bulb? Is something not touching that should be?

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    north west ohio
    Posts
    56
    My Cars
    1998 323ic
    I found that the po had the wrong bulbs in the tail lights, this was hard to find because both sides were wrong. They have different color sockets for a reason. After I installed the propper bulbs and cleaned the conections everything is ok.
    2009 CLS550
    2002X5
    1998 323ic (sold)
    1996 S320
    1989 300SE

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Different color sockets? brake lights are 21W, that is all what the owners manual says. I just replaced today the right one as I got the warning 1 brake lamp defective.

    Here for info the different warnings from the manual:

    Priority 1
    These defects are indicated immediately with the flashing warning lamp and the flashing warning symbol (1). Several simultaneous defects are displayed consecutively. After 20 seconds or
    when the CHECK key is pressed, the warning lamp in the instrument cluster stops flashing. The messages continue to be displayed until the defects are eliminated and can not be deleted by pressing the CHECK key (4).
    Brake lamp electrical system
    The brake lamps have failed. Fuse or electrical circuit is defective.

    Brake lamps defective
    Brake lamps have failed - bulbs defective. Replace bulbs.

    Priority 2
    These defects appear when the ignition key is in position 2. The warning symbols remain after the message disappears. If the plus symbol (3) appears:
    Additional messages are present and can be displayed by pressing the CHECK key.

    1 Brake lamp defective
    A bulb has failed. Refer to page 143.

    Low beams defective, Backup lamps defective, License plate lamp
    Bulb has failed or fuse or electrical circuit defective. Refer to pages 141, 143, 145 or visit a BMW Retailer.

    Washer fluid low
    Too low, top up at next opportunity. Refer to page 124.

    Check Control inactive
    Messages and warnings can not be displayed.

    Priority 3
    These status reports usually appear after the car is parked and the ignition key returned to position 0 (if several messages have been recorded, they will appear consecutively, with Priority 3
    messages following Priority 1 and 2 messages). Messages remain available for a period of approx. two minutes after the display goes out and the ignition key has been removed, and can be displayed by pressing the CHECK key.
    The messages can also be displayed before you start driving with the ignition key in position 2. The texts then go out after a short time or when you start driving, and no warning symbols remain. Messages are not displayed again until the ignition key is turned to position 0. If a plus symbol appears: display additional messages by pressing the CHECK key.

    Check coolant level
    Indicates that coolant is almost down to minimum level. Top up at the next opportunity. Refer to page 127.

    To check the Check Control display (only when no messages are displayed): Press the CHECK key with the ignition key in position 2: CHECK CONTROL OK appears in the display.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Winston Salem, NC
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 328i
    I got rear ended recently, but the damage was not severe, but I still had my Car a 1998 BMW 328i repaired at a Collision Shop. I went to pick up the Car today, as I was about to back up, I got a "Brake Light Failure" Message on my Control Panel. I immediately alerted the Collision guy, who changed my Bulbs, mind you nothing was wrong with the Car even after the rear end collision. Like I said the damage was very minor. After the Guy changed the bulbs out, I still have the Failure message come on as soon I as I step on my Brakes. Otherwise if I just check the control Panel when I start the Car, it is "ok". What is going on? somebody please help!

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,850
    My Cars
    BMW M3
    What was replaced from the taillight, bulbs and wiring after the collision?

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    China Grove, NC
    Posts
    201
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 318is Coupe
    my driver side brake light is out and thats the only one on the whole car..... replaced bulb no... cleaned contacts and bent them nooo. checked fuses no... put stock amber back in still dont work.... checked wires in trunk no bad ones... PLEASE HELP!!!
    My Grammer and Punctuation and Spelling sucks my BAD guys.!!

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Winston Salem, NC
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 328i
    To answer your question, I don't think anything was replaced after the collision. Mind you, this problem never existed even after the collision. I don't think they checked the Car after they were done putting it back together. I noticed the problem as I was about to pull out from the collision shop. Initially both Brake lights were out. The bulbs were changed then they started working properly, but I still have the message of brake light failure as soon as I step on the brake pedal.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    China Grove, NC
    Posts
    201
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 318is Coupe
    my car was backed into on the passenger side broke the tail and dented the car, replaced the tails with some i got off a member on here, then was told after install my brake light was off on the driver so i have no clue what could have happen..... put old one back in still don't work.
    My Grammer and Punctuation and Spelling sucks my BAD guys.!!

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,850
    My Cars
    BMW M3
    I would check and clean the taillight contact connector pins (male and female), ensure the bulbs are proper wattage and also open the rotary light switch and touch each pin-wire when lights are on and see if the taillight turns on, clean these contact pins as well.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sheveport, LA
    Posts
    898
    My Cars
    1994 318is; 2001 525i
    Ditto on the contact points. Burnished mine with some emery cloth, and topped off with some dielectric grease. No problems since.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Houston,Tx
    Posts
    25
    My Cars
    1994 325i sedan
    I had all of the above symptoms you guys have described. It dove me crazy and at one point(or several) wanted to get rid of my E36 because of this. What i did was cleaned all the contacts with a brillo pad, put die-electric grease on all metal contacts, replaced the brake pedal sensor, and taped exposed /frayed truck wiring. I just did everything, so don't rule any of the suggestions from other E36 owner suggestions out. These E36 are great cars, but also contain a lot of 20 year old sensors and wiring.
    Once i did all of these things i haven't had a problem since. Another alternative is to get the l.e.d. tail lights, because these plug into the existing wiring harness from the car. The bulbs don't need to be twisted into the sockets as on the OEM tail lights. They have wires running to them instead.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Upstate New York
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    mk4 Jetta. 2.0 AVH
    I thought I had them sorted out after fixing the frayed wires in the trunk but there's definitely more I have to fix. Stuck at work currently trying to find a 15a fuse. Anytime it's well below freezing (currently 5 in upstate NY right now) that's when my brake light circuit feels like failing. old cars are old cars. But I still love my E36. Guess I'll be working late tonight
    [IMG][/IMG]

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,850
    My Cars
    BMW M3
    It is so cold in NY right now that you don't want work outdoors, only indoors if you have too.

    solpowerr, you got any pictures of those led taillights, so far I have not seen a set that is as good looking as original BMW taillights.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Upstate New York
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    mk4 Jetta. 2.0 AVH
    I know it is really frustrating. But I don't have a garage and it's simply not possible to work outside. My wind chill is -15 Today Wooo!
    [IMG][/IMG]

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    294
    My Cars
    07 e91
    I made a trailer out of an E36 and learned some interesting things about the tail light assemblies and their wiring...maybe some of this info will be useful...

    the contacts at the bulbs and bulb assemblies is prone to corrosion. use a little dialectric grease on the bulbs and light housing contact arms....

    the light housing assemblies are like oversized circuit boards. a bit of a wacky design....but functional. each bulb type (brake, tail, turn, reverse) has a housing that is specific to its function and only fits in one way, and must be in the right receptacle.

    ***the lights are grounded on a grounding block behind the seats or up under the parcel shelf....be sure this ground block is in good shape..if you guys have a bad ground there it could be messing with a complete circuit. Mine was well hidden and had no corrosion anywhere near it, but a bad ground that is hidden from sight could drive you nuts!

    the brake light switch on the pedal seemed suspect...It must take some abuse over time

    you only need 3 bulbs per side for a legal trailer in NY!...

    sorry about the last item...hope the rest helps somehow...

    JP

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Springfield, MA
    Posts
    1,300
    My Cars
    1987 BMW 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
    i made a trailer out of an e36 and learned some interesting things about the tail light assemblies and their wiring...maybe some of this info will be useful...

    The contacts at the bulbs and bulb assemblies is prone to corrosion. Use a little dialectric grease on the bulbs and light housing contact arms....

    The light housing assemblies are like oversized circuit boards. A bit of a wacky design....but functional. Each bulb type (brake, tail, turn, reverse) has a housing that is specific to its function and only fits in one way, and must be in the right receptacle.

    ***the lights are grounded on a grounding block behind the seats or up under the parcel shelf....be sure this ground block is in good shape..if you guys have a bad ground there it could be messing with a complete circuit. Mine was well hidden and had no corrosion anywhere near it, but a bad ground that is hidden from sight could drive you nuts!

    The brake light switch on the pedal seemed suspect...it must take some abuse over time

    you only need 3 bulbs per side for a legal trailer in ny!...

    Sorry about the last item...hope the rest helps somehow...

    Jp
    pictures?

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Mt. Airy, Maryland
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    STX '96 BMW 328i
    My driver's side brake light has decided to become very inconsistent with me ('96 328i) and I get the "1 brake light failure" on my dash, but it seems to me that there isn't one solid answer to this problem... I'm gathering I should start with pulling the assembly apart and cleaning it up, and going from there. I noticed someone mentioned losing contact under heavy braking, and being an Autocrosser, that could very well be the case.

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