Symptoms of a Bad Camshaft/Crankshaft Sensor

[kellie]

Realoem.com

[IcemanBHE]

The dealer.

Or any of many online BMW parts sites.

[Edwin NL]

Be sure BOSCH only!

[azmandu87]

Hey all, I think I'm having roughly the same problems as the posters above, but with a few extra symptoms added on top and just wanted to know if you think it could all be one problem or multiple problems.

I have a 2004 BMW 316i ES and recently it's either been not starting after short journeys for approximately 30 minutes or cutting out whilst driving along. It starts first time in the morning, but say I pop to the shops for something, when I come out it won't start for about half an hour. I've had the AA come out and check, and they advised that there are 2 error codes; one for the crankshaft sensor and one for the camshaft sensor.

On top of this, there are two other things happening - firstly, when I'm stationary with the engine running, the car will rev itself up to about 1800 rpm, then drop back down to normal, and this will repeat every few seconds. Secondly, about only half of my lights work (bulbs have been checked and they're all fine). As in only two indicators (one on each side), the top brake light at the top of the window and half the headlights. Also, if I drive with full-beams on, and press on the brake, the headlights change to dipped, then back to full when the brake is released.

It's recently had a new battery, full set of spark plugs but the problems were happening before this.

I know that that's a massive all of text, but any help would be appreciated. I'm not sure if the sensors are damaged and they are possibly causing the other electrical problems or if it's the other way around and different garages give me different solutions, although all seem a little reluctant to touch it.

[JohnboyBMW]

Hey all, I think I'm having roughly the same problems as the posters above, but with a few extra symptoms added on top and just wanted to know if you think it could all be one problem or multiple problems.

I have a 2004 BMW 316i ES and recently it's either been not starting after short journeys for approximately 30 minutes or cutting out whilst driving along. It starts first time in the morning, but say I pop to the shops for something, when I come out it won't start for about half an hour. I've had the AA come out and check, and they advised that there are 2 error codes; one for the crankshaft sensor and one for the camshaft sensor.

On top of this, there are two other things happening - firstly, when I'm stationary with the engine running, the car will rev itself up to about 1800 rpm, then drop back down to normal, and this will repeat every few seconds. Secondly, about only half of my lights work (bulbs have been checked and they're all fine). As in only two indicators (one on each side), the top brake light at the top of the window and half the headlights. Also, if I drive with full-beams on, and press on the brake, the headlights change to dipped, then back to full when the brake is released.

It's recently had a new battery, full set of spark plugs but the problems were happening before this.

I know that that's a massive all of text, but any help would be appreciated. I'm not sure if the sensors are damaged and they are possibly causing the other electrical problems or if it's the other way around and different garages give me different solutions, although all seem a little reluctant to touch it.

I am getting the same problems marked in bold. Have already changed the camshaft position sensor but that did not solve the problem.

Would be good to know if you have managed to fix this yet?

[Edwin NL]

This is a 7 forum, these issues are for the V8 engines

[01sport]

Classic Crankshaft sensor problem.

[1karkrazyguy]

How many miles on your car?

I have seen many BMW's in your era with between 80,000- 110,000 miles with these exact same symptoms, with engine dying while driving, starting problems, etc.

Replace the power relay for the engine computer AND at the same time for the fuel pump.

The power relays wear out with time, heat cycling and electrical cycling as the power flows through the relay. They are mechanical switches with points...

These relays fail at the high mileage and also when there are extremes of heat and cold.

When these relays completely fail, the engine will not start at all and the diagnostic computers can not read the engine brain at all.

When that happen, most dealers and mechanics will assume that you have " fried your engine computer " and they will sell you a new engine brain for $750+... The car still will run after it leaves the shop, but then the car dies again, exhibiting the same problems, and eventually the dealer or shop will ask you to have the car towed elsewhere....

How do I know this?

I watched an owner of a popular BMW shop in West L.A. have 3 cars with this same problem.

I ended up figuring out that it was a power relay, no power to the engine computer on the cars based on the inability of the BMW Modic not being able to read the engine computer... No power to engine computer, no read outs.

Many of these cars had had new engine computers installed, new fuel pumps, coils, and a new rebuilt automatic transmission in one....

On BMW's with automatic transmissions, when these engine computer power relays fail completely, the yellow gear light on the dash will light up indicating major transmission failure. That is because the engine computer supplies the power to the transmission computer. AND the BMW Modic can NOT get any DTC codes saying why the transmission has failed out of the engine computer, BECAUSE THERE IS NO POWER TO THE ENGINE COMPUTER TO STORE CODES OR FOR THE COMPUTER TO BE READ.

I swapped in a power relay from my BMW and the cars fired right up and the Modic read NO DTC CODES, as there was no power to store them...

This shop owner charges $500 to diagnose and fix this problem when these cars come in. He is cleaning up....

$15 for a new relay is all it is....

And I have lifetime access to use his shop hoists any time....

[rdorman]

I have the CPS in the garage for this weekend as it was throwing the code. Is a bad CPS often accompanied by a drop in MPG? I noticed a drop recently and the two seem to be timed together. Of course, once I replace it I will know the answer.

[AquilaBMW]

Gareth - You are in the wrong sub-forum. This is for BMW E38's (7-Series). But from what you describe, see if you are getting spark at the plugs.

From your description though, on the M62TU44 engine, I would suspect the CPS / Crank Position Sensor.

[Edwin NL]

Moved to the E36 forum

[S.Hafsmo]

Are there different CPS part numbers for M73 and M73N?
I got a part number from a BMW parts webshop, but when I search this number on ebay, the sensors I find are just for 95-98 (M73 and not M73N).

Confused..

[dmariop09]

Hi I have a 95 e38 all stock and I'm having a starting issue it was intermitten now it won't start at all. Change the fuel pump and filter still won't start and I was wondering would I get spark with a bad crankshaft position sensor?

[IcemanBHE]

No.

[mtse]

Typically a no spark and no fuel symptom is the crank sensor. In this case it did not fix the issue, but the video shows how to replace the sensor.

Hi Humananon

Did you eventually find out what caused your 'no spark and no fuel' issue?

Thanks.

[Hellzbellz]

I have read two different threads where the symptom was rattling noise from the fuel injectors (!) It sounds strange but when the CPS was changed the noise disappeared. No error codes from the CPS.

However, both were 6 cylinder cars: one 523iA -98 and one 528iA -98.

Hi, I have a similar problem on a 4 cylinder 316ti compact sport '54 plate 35,500 miles on clock.
I don't even know if has fuel injectors that have been causing rattle, but now Eml light staying on & in limp mode! Timing chain, tensioner,guides & timing all done on advice of BMW but noise still there & obviously car now worse. Does this sound like cam sensor?! Thanks

[Mayorchuck]

You should really start a new thread in the proper forum. Really nothing similar to the E38 on yours. Good luck.

[damaxima]

Check out my Transfailsafe thread here. My car just dies and wouldn't run for more than 5 seconds, acted just exactly like a fuel starvation problem. Mechanic said his code read a bad camshaft position sensor, will find out Tues if that is the problem. Could have sworn it was the fuel filter, or fuel pump the way it acted

Dude I have the exact same problem I didn't think it was my sensor, he replaced it and I'm still having that problem, so let me know what your issue is and how you fixed it.

[farhansadiq]

Hi guys i know this is an old thread but i am kinda suffering through the same ordeal, my car is 2000 740il with vanos on both banks intake came shafts anyhow the car was misfiring after i replaced upper timing cover gaskets and I got it scanned by an indy the messages were 21 camshaft timing fault on bank one and injector 1 so it was a loose injector connector which got rid of the misfire however now there is an engine failsafe prog on the display no ses or check engine light i think i dont have it in my car as there are no cats no egr or that stuff after the message the DSC light comes on this happens when the idle drops a lil the acceleration is sluggish till 2500 rpm and picks up nicely after that with the engine fail safe mode active i am suspecting faulty cam sensor check left bank cam sensor with multimeter shows nothing 0 in all ranges and on bank two it is 2-3000 mega ohms if i disconnect both sensors the car never starts just cranks if i connect the sensor one by one the car starts but engine failsafe message appears so I wanna know if the camshaft sensors are the cause?? please help

[e34vibes1994]

i m having the same problem with a no start on my 1994 530i im going to have my battery tested to see if it is that which most likely will be because it was my battery the last time my car didnt start but have not checked out my crankshaft position sensor so really un sure

[MisterM52]

Can a Crank Sensor go wrong without setting a code? I am having pretty much the same bogging and stalling (leaning out per say rough running when warm) issue, I wonder if its the sensor going bad, has happened before twice in the last 2 years but always set a code, I wonder??

[Mayorchuck]

Crank and cam sensors, along with the MAF, do not always throw a code when defective. Happened to me with a cam sensor. You can pull it out and check the ohms between pins 1 and 2. Should be 556 or so. If it's bad, it will be zero or way out.

[MisterM52]

Crank and cam sensors, along with the MAF, do not always throw a code when defective. Happened to me with a cam sensor. You can pull it out and check the ohms between pins 1 and 2. Should be 556 or so. If it's bad, it will be zero or way out.

Can I check it for both crank and cam sensor?? And am I supposed to see different resistance if they are warm?

A bit more detail will be appreciated

I did some tests of my own today briefly, I checked if the injector coils by unplugging one at a time and plugging it back in as the motor idled. That went well to rule them out.

Next I unplugged the ICV and held an idle which was around 12 afr..felt better but eventually as motor fully warmed up it kept bouncing back and forth lean or rich unless I gave it some gas. Almost as if its running out of fuel unless I gave it gas.

Next I realized while it idled, and I gave it a bit more gas as it crossed 1K RPM it started to lean. as if the injectors aren't delivering proper ammount of fuel or something. I am coming towards a wall where I think the breakthrough may be related to fuel trims, scaling or delivery, I plan to test fuel pressure tomorrow if I can. (but may as well be anything else like maf or something or Crank or Cam Sensor which would be odd as no codes are lodged)

[Mayorchuck]

If the car is running, it's probably not your crank sensor. Cam sensor should ohm at 1250, or close to it, between pins 1 and 2. You can unplug the MAF and start the car. If it runs better, it may be your issue.

[MisterM52]

Well it runs and then wants to die, i have had this issue before and it was the crank sensor, but this time its not picking up or showing in the ecu fault codes.

Have taken the crank sensor out of the car, to test the ohm reading, now this reads around 790ohm indoors!

And just to test out I kept the known bad one from last year which is reading some 750ohm.. Heating it really hot with a heater for 5 mins got it down to 577ohm. So definitely out of spec and I guess it gets worse as I think the car warms up.

This was a VDO, who may or may not have been the oem supplier at the time car was made, but today I asked the supplier that i wanted Genuine BMW made in Germany as the replacement.