Steering Wheel Play- How Much Is Too Much

[Kuch569]

I already know my suspension is shot so new Bilstein and H&R will be going on all 4 corners. The car has 85,000 miles and ball joints got replaced by the PO at around 50K. While driving on the highway there is around 3 inches of play each way in the steering. Is this normal? If not what is the cause? Also, while putting on a new wheel I noticed one of the front wheels moves towards the inside of the car when I tighten the lugs. Any idea what component would decrease that movement or it is normal?
Thanks

[FierySphere]

Normal ? NO
I have about 1/4 inch of play as measured at the rim of the stock steering wheel.
But on an alignment rack, it isn't 'play'. It shows movement, just this movement does not translate into a change of vehicle direction when driving.

[axthrower]

Check the universals in the steering shaft

[Kuch569]

Well when the car is not moving there is only about a half inch of play in the steering wheel which seems normal to me. Because of this I think I can rule out the u-joints in the steering unit. Does anyone know what suspension components would have the greatest ability to tighten up the steering? Would it be tie rods or ball joints?

Maybe the new suspension will really tighten things up. I'm not expecting anything like a race car but at this point the handling is not what I expected.

[ublemaschine]

Tie rods being bad could make the steering really bad. So could inner ball joints, outer ball joints, steering universal joint, steering rack, and lower control arm bushings.

I prefer somewhere around no steering play to be good. Obviously the steering will not be as quick off center because the rack is geared that way, but if it is on an alignment rack I would want the wheels to be moving as soon as the wheel gets touched.

[Kuch569]

Sounds like I should just bite the bullet and buy new control arms, tie rods, and related bushings. I think I saw a kit on e-bay for around $200 to do all that. Any opinions on how much time that would add to my original job of struts/shocks/springs and any special tools I would need?

[ublemaschine]

You need a press to do the lower control arm bushings. And an alignment rack if you do tie rods.

[beskhu3epnm]

Had some pretty hefty play in my steering wheel, to me it was quite obvious it was the tie rods. Swapped them out, and all was well afterwards.

Getting some play again, and it looks like the universals in the steering shaft are due.

There should be next to zero play in the steering wheel.

[stowe9man]

I had very slight (like 1/4") of play in my steering, until I replaced the outer ball joints, now I have literally no play at all that I can detect. I would imagine this is normal, but some cars, like my father's '63 Corvette are supposed to have some play. In the owner's manual for the Corvette, it calls for a certain amount of play in the steering.

[beskhu3epnm]

I had a brand new 2003 GMC Sierra that you could turn the wheel 3 inches to either side and drive like they used to do in the old movies.

It was ridiculous... I suppose some vehicles are designed that way. Perhaps for off-roading? Tough to say...

But I've experienced a young E36, and there used to be zero on my car, so I know something's up

[GimmieSumMo72]

if you have any play room... you know that there is something wrong!

on any performance styled car there shouldn't be any play room at all.

[Kuch569]

Since the only E36 I've ever driven is my own I really don't have anything to compare mine too. But if what you guys are saying is correct there really should'nt be any play in the steering at 60mph right? Since I've got about 3" left and right my suspension components must be worn more than I thought.

[Hess]

Sounds like I should just bite the bullet and buy new [COLOR=blue! important][FONT='segoe UI', verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT='segoe UI', verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]control [/FONT][COLOR=blue! important][FONT='segoe UI', verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]arms[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR], tie rods, and related bushings. I think I saw a kit on e-bay for around $200 to do all that. Any opinions on how much time that would add to my original job of struts/shocks/springs and any special tools I would need?

Interesting... I just did all of the same stuff, bought the kit on e-bay per our other post, and live not too far from you!!! I've never tackled such a job but it wasn't too bad. Only "Special tools" needed IMO is a strut spring compessor, a puller to remove the bushings, and a pickle fork to separate the balls. Biggest issues where:
- getting the "hats" back on the struts (needed additional compression - 2nd set of hands)
- getting the strut routed into the tower (needed 2nd set of hands up top)
- cutting the control arm bushings out (cut them with a sawzall)
- pressing the bushings in (used a vice, broke a vice, used the new vice, got it done)
- getting the bushings on the control arm (used A LOT of dish soap on the second one and pounded it on easy with a socket to beat on the inner center ring)
- releasing out ball joints (bang the hell out of them was the answer)
- need to get alignment (obviously can't do this yourself!)

It took me about 3-4 hours to do the struts. Then I did the rest on the following Saturday when I realized I had a bad ball joint. The rest took about 3-4 hours as well... so I'd say you could do the whole job in about 6-7 hours if your like me.

[Kuch569]

Hess,
Thanks for the detailed response. So after all that how does she handle? Night and day difference I hope? What struts and springs did you go with?

[Hess]

I left the stock springs and got some Monroe Sports which were the cheapest I could find. I essentially spent as little as possible and rebuilt the entire front end suspension for $400... figured it would be a $2000 job from any shop around here.

As mentioned in your oter post, the handling IS night and day and most of it is due to the new struts which I did first.

Like you, mine is a "3rd car" which is really my daily driver. I've got far too many other hobbies ahead of my car to spend additional $$$'s on upgrades. I just want to keep it going with some resemblence of a "sporty" daily driver vs. sloppy jelaopy!