I guess it depends on what kind of temp sensor you get. The one that comes with Zionsville wouldn't work as drawn. It is on the ground leg of the relay. The sensor gets a constant ground and then has two output wires - one for each pre-set temp setting. When the coolant reaches a pre-set temp, the sensor will ground the circuit which allows the relay to trip. At that point, the relay supplies 12v to the fan itself. This would be the same concept if it were a single-speed as well - just one less wire from the sensor and one less relay in the circuit.
Last edited by BlackSapphire; 11-28-2008 at 08:02 PM.
anyone else make any progress with this? I think I might go this route. I live about 15 minutes away from zionsville maybe should go and ask if they would sell the wiring kit.
KEVIN
BMW CCA # 416146
Current 2001 525i-5 / 234,000 Miles
///M Weighted Shift knob.
CD43 with AUX retrofit + Bluebus
Auto Dimming Mirror upgrade
H&R Sport / Koni STR.T
OEM Xenon HID Retrofit
The Ex- 2000 540i-6 / 82,xxx miles to 186,xxx miles
CDV Free, 545i Shifter and ///M Weighted Shift knob.
Member of DSC Module Failure Club $$
i did this mod on my car and i live in a 35c degree country
im using a 14 inch fan that cost me 25 bucks from a nissan sentra or something like that.
is running direct with a relay so its always on.
why i put it this way?
cuz its temporary i need to get a bigger fan just in case
i have drive the car on heavy traffic and checking the temperature with my obc the higher it gets is to 100c and im talking heavy traffic.
spirited driving 95c
the needle is always death center don't move at all. NEVER
im not using watter wetter or a cooler thermostat.
so if you are using a spal fan of 16 inch YOU should not have any overheating issues
Last edited by xisco44; 11-29-2008 at 10:58 AM.
96 318is Sport --sold
96 528ia Premium Comfort seats --sold
98 528ia euro sport pack BR41880-- sold
01 530ia Premium CE52247
02 540ia Individual GG91507
are the electric fans any quieter?
my fan is always on and i cant hear
the only thing i do as for paranoia is every time im going to turn the car on i put it in on (on) first without starting to make sure is working.
then i crank the engine when the engine is running i never listen to it
96 318is Sport --sold
96 528ia Premium Comfort seats --sold
98 528ia euro sport pack BR41880-- sold
01 530ia Premium CE52247
02 540ia Individual GG91507
So I went to Zionsville Autosport today and talked to a guy there. They said they would be willing to sell the their wiring kit by itself, but there is an issue.
The Zionsville custom cooling kit include a temperature sensor that checks the temperature of the coolant. This sensor screws into the custom radiator. He said that the fan control switch cannot communicate with the BMW's digital signal b/c it uses and anolog signal.
He said that if i can figure out a wat to screw the coolant sensor into a radiator hose that would be my best bet. I don't think I would want to put a sensor in my coolant hose. I would be afriad that would weaken the hose and it might fail. Same with the radiator.
Anyone have any ideas on where the sensor could be mounted?
I have one of those adjustable units you pick up from Autozone stuck in my radiator. I monitored the temp of the engine (via the High OBC) and I have it kick on once it hits 113c.
Rear lip $130
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post15593279
Where did you get the E36 M3 temp switch???
Dealer?
There is also the PWM.
It's a temp sensor:
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001...n_controller/1
http://www.carshopinc.com/advanced_s...2e57e7&x=0&y=0
Last edited by Jason5driver; 12-02-2008 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
I got it from a salvage car
Thanks for the reply!
Do you have any pictures of the E36 temp switch on your thermostat?
How does it screw in?
Which is better?;
1. the PWM temp sensor
http://www.carshopinc.com/advanced_s...2e57e7&x=0&y=0
2. or the E36 M3 temp sensor???
Thank you!
Jason
I found this link for fitting the Electric fan to the radiator:
http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/fan-accessories-c-23.html
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12335107#post12335107&highlight=S pal+electric+fan
"Here's some pics of the steel bars riveted in using 1/8" rivets on my Spal 16" Curved Blade Puller fan:"
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...l/DSC03459.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...l/DSC03443.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...l/DSC03448.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/1700/img1139jx4.jpg
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6648/img1381gn9.jpg
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/9693/fan1lg9.jpg
Last edited by Jason5driver; 12-02-2008 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
The kit comes with a metal probe about 3" long with wires sticking out the back. It was small enough to actually stick through the rad (fins) so I mounted it to the top row (heat rises? figured it would be the best), then let my car sit and idle till I saw it hit 113c on the dash.
Rear lip $130
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post15593279
Rear lip $130
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post15593279
I am not making any holes in my cooling hoses. That is just asking for a coolant leak/ hose failure. Thanks for the idea though.
Did you make a custom fan shroud or did you just mount the fan to the radiator? I am hesitant to not make a custom shroud out of aluminum. It's winter now, not worried about it, but I think i would want it is the summer.
Do you happen to have a part # for what you bought from autozone?
Was it something like this?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16759/10002/-1#
Last edited by jerkstore; 12-03-2008 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I just used the stock one. Didn't cut it at all. I just watched the temp a lot to see if it ever went hot in stopped traffic, and it never did. Now I live in Tennessee, so I am a lot less worried about it.
Rear lip $130
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post15593279
Should be no reason to need the Zionville kit. If you just replace the clutched fan w/ an electric fan of about equal CFM you should be good. Some guys will swap thermostats and such but I really don't think it'd be necessary. Get a SPAL fan (www.the-fan-man.com) that moves around, oh say 1400 - 1600 CFM if I had to guess, and have it wired always on with the ignition (use a relay w/ a diode) and you should be good to go. Should cost about $120 from that site.
I like to err on the side of caution and picked up a fan that moves 2000cfm.
Rear lip $130
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post15593279
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