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Thread: Wiring Issue- E36 (RIGHT SIDE) Tail light HELP!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Chandler, Arizona
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    95 M3

    Arrow Wiring Issue- E36 (RIGHT SIDE) Tail light HELP!

    Ok guys, here is the issue. My right side PARKING LIGHTS and TAIL LIGHT are out. They are the only two lights in the entire car that do not seem to be working, or getting power. They should run on the same circuit, I'm not sure, but the blinkers etc. all work. The bulbs are new.

    Now that we got that out of the way, I tried testing the connectors that go into the tails today with my multimeter. I noticed while doing this, that on my driver side tail light, there are 7 pins. On the passenger, there are only 6. This means, one wire is missing, and I believe this may be the culprit. The car is a 1995 E36 M3. I am confused on what the hell to do, I can't seem to find the short anywhere.

    If anyone is good at reading diagrams, here is the wiring diagram:
    95 Avus Blue M3 N/A for now..
    95 Avus Blue M3 410whp,GT35R sold

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Riverside, Ca.
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    06 325i,93 325i,07VW GLI
    I had a similar issue with mine. I had to just route the wire from left side to right to fix my problem. You used a multimeter to check which wires are hot with your lights on and then your brake lights, right. You didn't mention your findings other then one extra wire on the left which I believe is normal. The problem could be at the tail light itself and not necessarily the wiring.

  3. #3
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    ----------
    I believe he's stated several times now that he's tried new bulbs, new tail light housing and all of that, so that's definitely not the issue.

    Just trace that diagram back to your pin configuration and check with your multimeter to see if you get any supply with the switch in position '1'

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Waban, MA, USA
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    1999 328i convertible
    This seems like the right place to ask a simpler question: my computer says I have a brake light failure and it appears to be the right one. Do you know (a) what kind of replacement bulb I need and (b) where to find instructions for changing it? I have a 1999 328iC (E36).

    Thanks for any help!
    Last edited by jalwitt; 03-15-2008 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Forgot to specify model

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalwitt View Post
    This seems like the right place to ask a simpler question: my computer says I have a brake light failure and it appears to be the right one. Do you know (a) what kind of replacement bulb I need and (b) where to find instructions for changing it? I have a 1999 328iC (E36).

    Thanks for any help!
    Just head on down to an Autozone and pick out a Sylvania, they should be able to tell you exactly which one you need. Does not really matter cause they are going to go out after a while anyway.

    As for replacing, you will see a plastic cover on your tail light assembly, remove it, you will see the bulb holders (plastic rectangular protrusions) twist counter-clock, the one that traces to the bulb that's blown and replace the bulb in that holder.

    The car manual should have the procedure as well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Canada
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    328i

    Right side lights not working!

    Are you still having this problem?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Canada
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    328i

    My problem

    Check the wiring harness in the trunk which connects to the trunk lid.
    The wires become fatigued from opening the trunk lid so many tomes over the years. The damage will be at the point where the harness must bend. I imagine the problems this causes can vary due to which wires break or short out. The problems I had started to compound and you would think they were not related. License plate light on very dim when lights shut off, right side driving lights not working, instrument lighting out. Door locking system not working, fuses blown.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    The temp fix.

    The wires will need to be replaced. However a temporary fix is to remove the grommet from the trunk lid, work the grommet and the sleeve past the point where the damage is. Re-solder the broken wires and re-insulate the wires which are not broken but have copper exposed. Be careful not to use too much material as it will make this area very bulky and the sleeve may not slide over this area. I recommend heat shrink over the wires that have been severed and re-soldered. After this is finished I used some electrical tape to wrap this area making the bundle tighter and area smoother so the sleeve will slide back with ease. I hope this works for you,

    Cheers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    E46 M3
    Why try rigging it with jumper wires from one side to the other? That's an okay temp fix; but no recommended for an extended period of time.
    Dude, I had this exact problem when I first got my car. I did all kinds of research; checked the wiring in the trunk, fuses, relays all pertaining to [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]parking [COLOR=blue! important]lights[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]. My passenger side was out, front and rear. When I jumped the parking lights from the driver side, they worked find, all bulbs were okay. I even removed my tail light assemblies and completely dissasembled them on my bench. Corrosion a known culprit for this, but absolutely none. Everything was perfect. Anyways, it all came down to my [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]headlight [COLOR=blue! important]switch[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]. Turns out the contacts inside burn up and quit making contact on turn. Ordered a new one from Bavauto and VOILA! I had parking lights again on all four corners! Hope that helps ya! Good luck!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    E46 M3
    dunno why that happened, but in case you can't read it, Headlight Switch.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    KY USA
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    My Cars
    1998 BMW 318i

    what's wrong??

    I have a 1998 318i with a serious problem.. it started with the license plate lights staying on along with the dash lights, radio light staying on when you turn off the key,, the bmw dealer started pulling fuses until he found one that would turn off the lights.. it happened to be the fuse for the cd player in the trunk.. now the interior lights do not come on when the door is open unless the headlights are on,, the keyless remote will not lock the doors,, however it chirps like the alarm is on,, the radio illuminates with the word PHONE,, and it will not work unless the headlights are on.... the bmw dealer told me that it could cost several thousand dollars just to trace all the wires and could cost more than the car is worth,, I think they just don't want to tackle the problem.. anyone have similar problems..???

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Denver CO
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    92
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    95 325 IS
    I had the same issue w/ my driver side marker not working .turns worked fine .My mechanic found a frayed wire(cause unknown) behind the instrument panel .Earlier a friend and I tried the jumper wire from the pass. side to driver side and it blew the fuse for the pass. side. I think it is better to fix the prob than just treat the symptom.Good luck , wiring problems are the worse .

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    New Zealand
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    Honda Legend
    Sorry to bring up a dead post, but is this problem resolved? Im having the exact same problems as the guy who posted this, tried wiring from the left to the right side. The left side works fine but the right side still wont work even though it is wired directly to the left? Wat do u think the problem might be? the park lights wont work either. I did suspect headlight switch failure but how does this affect the right brake lights? Please help

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    los angeles, ca
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    17
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    94' 325i
    I've been searching for solutions as I have this same problem. All dash illumination lights out (cluster/heater controls/window switches), and the right side park/tail light is out.... I'm curious if the original poster ever got the problem fixed???

    So far I've replaced the cluster, headlight switch, dimmer switch (tried 5 different ones). I've also repaired the trunk wiring harness as it had a few exposed wires.

    I've gone over the electrical diagrams and it seems the GRY/RED wire coming out of the dimmer switch is the suspect wire....from what i see on the diagrams there isnt a connection between this wire and the tail/park lights.

    ChaseBimmer: how did you fix the problem? or did you even fix it?!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Coral Springs,Fl
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    78
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    '87 325; '00 323iT
    also looking to solve this problem.. any luck yet ?
    --Hayden--
    '87 325 -- E30Trakrat
    '00 323i Touring -- 5 Doors
    '92 Integra GS-R -- 8yr+ project

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    No one ever said anything about fuses. Remember, there are 2 separate fuses, one for each side. Check fuses 33 and 37 per the diagram. While at it make sure ALL fuses are good. I pulled a fuse to turn my interior lights out and the left side tail lights quit working along with a bunch of other stuff!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Coral Springs,Fl
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    '87 325; '00 323iT
    Quote Originally Posted by Ballack View Post
    Check the wiring harness in the trunk which connects to the trunk lid.
    The wires become fatigued from opening the trunk lid so many tomes over the years. The damage will be at the point where the harness must bend. I imagine the problems this causes can vary due to which wires break or short out. The problems I had started to compound and you would think they were not related. License plate light on very dim when lights shut off, right side driving lights not working, instrument lighting out. Door locking system not working, fuses blown.

    The wires will need to be replaced. However a temporary fix is to remove the grommet from the trunk lid, work the grommet and the sleeve past the point where the damage is. Re-solder the broken wires and re-insulate the wires which are not broken but have copper exposed. Be careful not to use too much material as it will make this area very bulky and the sleeve may not slide over this area. I recommend heat shrink over the wires that have been severed and re-soldered. After this is finished I used some electrical tape to wrap this area making the bundle tighter and area smoother so the sleeve will slide back with ease. I hope this works for you,

    THIS WORKS !!!
    I just solved the very same problem on my 318is...
    --Hayden--
    '87 325 -- E30Trakrat
    '00 323i Touring -- 5 Doors
    '92 Integra GS-R -- 8yr+ project

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Orland Park, il
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    2
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    1992 BMW 325i
    Ok, i had this issue today. It was about 6 degrees this morning when the error happened. not sure if that has anything to do with it. i picked up replacement bulbs assuming a bulb was burnt out. all were good, so i searched around online. plenty of stuff about checking contact points (all good), fuses (none blown), cut wires(no power to right side tail light). I couldn't figure out how to get the plastic piece off the trunk, but before coming back inside, just pounded about the length of the wire from the passenger side tail light to where it went back up into the body. still nothing. went to turn the car off and noticed another error for the headlights. headlight are still on. turned the key off and back on... whammo.... everything works. wtf!!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Erie, Pa
    Posts
    216
    My Cars
    98 BMW M3 & 94 BMW 325ic
    Fog lights and right side running lights and right side break lights just all the sudden went.

    No bad fuses, no bad wires... Relays all good.

    I'm stumped?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Erie, Pa
    Posts
    216
    My Cars
    98 BMW M3 & 94 BMW 325ic
    My Fog lights were on once was warmer!

    Turned car off and turned light off and when started up again leaving the store my fogs weren't on anymore.

    So played with the switch and sure, they came on..

    So ordered a new switch and hoping it's the cause of right side running lights being out too!

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Erie, Pa
    Posts
    216
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    98 BMW M3 & 94 BMW 325ic
    Yep, new switch worked! Had my doubts, I have no luck at all..

    But All lights work now!!

    Thanks guys!

  22. #22
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Foxboro, MA
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    1996 328is
    Regarding the rear wiring loom, I wish I'd started stripping the sheath from the top. I wouldn't have had to tape the whole thing up again.
    My two right side tail lights, the plate light and the instrument cluster were out. It also blew a fuse. Fortunately, the two identical brown wires weren't broken so I didn't have to figure them out. I just soldered the wires, taped everything and saved probably a lot of money in repairs.
    I recommend this preventative repair, but, start strippping at the top of the wire.

    Loom1b.jpg

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Washington
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    1
    My Cars
    2007 328xi
    2007 328xi. I had the same problem this week. Left trunk lights out, license plate lights out and trunk remote wouldn't work. Saw a video online about a broken wire in the wiring loom from trunk lid to car body. Sure enough after removing the loom on top and bottom, I pulled on a brown wire and it was broken. Pulled the wire out from both ends and ran a new brown wire through the loom. Connected on both ends with solder and heat shrink, ran the extra bit of wire into the car body near rear window and everything works including trunk. Did not have to cut the loom. It takes a bit of patience to get the loom attached again on both ends. Saved about $300!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
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    '94 325iC, '08 328i, E93
    Quote Originally Posted by RogerBTanner View Post
    2007 328xi. I had the same problem this week. Left trunk lights out, license plate lights out and trunk remote wouldn't work. Saw a video online about a broken wire in the wiring loom from trunk lid to car body. Sure enough after removing the loom on top and bottom, I pulled on a brown wire and it was broken. Pulled the wire out from both ends and ran a new brown wire through the loom. Connected on both ends with solder and heat shrink, ran the extra bit of wire into the car body near rear window and everything works including trunk. Did not have to cut the loom. It takes a bit of patience to get the loom attached again on both ends. Saved about $300!



    As much as we appreciate the input, your car is not a chassis that we can help you with. You need to find the proper forum for your car.

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