Could someone explain to me what this part is or if it goes by another name? The mechanic I got to diagnose my car told me that I needed a new rear U-Joint. I do most of my repairs myself but I have no clue what a rear U-Joint is. I'm getting a lot of vibration--especially in the backseat--when I accelerate so I assume that this U-Joint is the culprit. Can anyone help clarify this issue for me?
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
This is the rear U-joint;
I have the same problem and non of the U-joints can be replaced individually. The entire driveshaft must be replaced. I will be doing this exact thing this coming weekend. I got a used one in a very good shape with good Central Bearing from Bavarian Auto Recycling. While there, I will be replacing Trany mounts, Guibo, central guide bushing, and all self-locking nuts.
Can this part cause rattling and vibration when accelerating? How much did you pay for your used driveshaft replacement part? Is there a DIY guide for this fix? Do you have to use a lift for this fix?
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
Absolutely.
Thankfully never had a bad ujoint in the BMW, but I got them all the time in my Jeep and a bad one causes those exact symptoms. Fortunately Jeep's have replaceable ujoints.
Wonder if the 'shaft can be taken to a drivetrain shop and rebuilt there, or if it's really a no-replace U-joint....I mean, BMW's gotta get it in there somehow....right??
Knowledge isn't necessarily knowing the answer, but knowing where to find the answer.
<font face = "BMWE36">Oh duh, html is disabled</font>
It'd be nice right? I'm 24 years old and I ain't made of money. I think I'm going to start preparing for this project soon. I guess I'm going to start trolling the Internets for a good deal on a used driveshaft
geminiys: How much did you pay for your used driveshaft replacement part? Is there a DIY guide for this fix? Do you have to use a lift for this fix?
Last edited by Hagbard; 03-04-2008 at 04:39 PM.
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
I called them and bargained about refurbished one that they have posted on Ebay for $199.00. They response was $125 plus shipping for a used one in good condition for both U-joints and Central Bearing. I agreed. Being in California the shipping was only $22. the difference between refurbished and used is painted and bew Central Bearing. After talking to several mechanics, no one seen a Central Bearing going bad on bimmers yet. Bavarian shipped me the exact driveshaft from the same model car that I have.
I bought a used rear driveshaft from a 1997 318i for $182.00 from an outfit in Mobile AL called Quality Auto Parts. I have a money back guarantee if I don't like the part so I feel good about it. Now all I have to do is find a mechanic who'll let me use his lift for a weekend!
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
What do you mean rear driveshaft? Is it the whole assembly from trany to differential or just a portion of it?
You do need to replace the entire thing as there weight balancers and geometry is adjusted for the entire assembly. Also, if 2 pieces are ever reassembled, the timing marks must be put in place for exact fit putting it back together.
Bavarians selling 318 driveshafts for 179 referbished. I bet a used one will go for $100 if you talk to them.
I would be willing to bet that you are in need of a center bearing and not u joints i run some pretty high numbers in my e36 with full monoball setup and solid motor,tranny,diff,subframe mounts and still havent managed to wear out the u's and i drive the car very hard but im sure you have gotten at least a second opion on this problem just my $.02
I mean "driveshaft." I just added "rear" because it's located near the "rear." The site I ordered from seems reputable enough. This is new territory for me. I am learning about driveshafts as I go and I'm collecting parts as I go as well. I figured I'd go ahead and get the driveshaft since it's the pivotal part. I'm assuming I may as well get a new driveshaft support w/ bearing and a new driveshaft bushing as well as a new flex joint. Does anyone know of a good DIY guide for this procedure that includes proper torque specifications?
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
Thanks for your thoughts. After a lot of research and conversations with a couple of mechanics, I am convinced that my problem is a bad U-Joint. Everyone I've spoken to on this site and in my research has pretty much agreed that the center bearings on the E36 don't really go bad in most cases. I am planning to go ahead and replace the guibo though. After 265,000 miles it's probably time.
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
I have seen a video of a feller FORCE changing his u joints and worked until he decided to do a pro stock burn out and snapped it. Problem was it was a hollow greasable u joint and couldn't take the torque of a stationary rear diff. He changed it once again and taking it easy on it. I have vibration in the rear u joint and i am looking for a non greasable u joint to replace mine. Im not buying someone else's wore out junk for ump-teen million dollars just to have to do it anyway. I will find link and put it here soon as i can find it again along with the part number for u joint.....IT CAN BE DONE.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
What's the part number for the u joint you used?
He could wait 13 years for his question to make it back in time or he could do a quick search... this took 3 seconds... not even google but lame a$$ duck duck go
Screenshot_20210707-224943.png
incase anyone comes to this thread, you can diy replace the u joint and there is a guy who shows it on a e46 which will work on the e36 with the proper u joint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tz4qf8MSEGE
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