Thanks to the OP, and everyone else, for the photos and information in this thread. I just replaced mine and was surprised how straightforward this was.
My light is also still on. Do I need to take it to a shop/dealer/auto parts store to merely get it scanned to get the light reset?
thanks,
Chris
Cheers for a great post. Just ordered a new unit from the dealer and the current price from them is £158 plus vat. Found a seller on ebay for £159 delivered, but needed it the next day so paid the extra.
Does anyone have a picture of the black plastic clip (off the quick connect fitting)? Or please describe to me how it works/looks like intact?
I broke the clip and half of it is off the fitting. The other half is still in place. I am guessing there is an internal ring that is still intact and securing the fitting?
I didn't want to pull or break the other half off being afraid I will cause more damage and it cannot be salvageable.
My air springs are still good so I put everything else back together and the rear end leveled up no problem. Drove it around the block and all seems fine. Should I be concerned about the broken piece and the fitting not secure?
I would like to know how to safely remove the other half so I can pull the fitting off and also be able to reuse the black clip whether as-is or gluing the broken off piece back on (how easy is it to put the clip on the fitting?). Sorry for all these questions, I just want to be as sure as possible before tackling this again, if there is doubt, I will just wait till they fail.
This is the piece that broke off.
Last edited by yersole; 11-23-2012 at 12:38 AM.
Two of the attached photos show the plastic clip half attached to the brass fitting. Your clip fragment corresponds to the top half of the clip in my photos (i.e., my photos are upside down relative to yours, and the car). It appears you are correct in surmising that the inner ring is be still in place inside your brass fitting, which is why yours is holding air. It also seems to me that it should be just fine as is. I would not do anything with it. If you ever need to remove the air spring, you will probably be able to spread the inner ring using picks or small screwdrivers.
Good luck; my system still leaks at the exact same rate as before I replaced the (blown) air springs and air reservoirs--one inch per day driver's side; a half inch per day or less on the passenger side. I've tried soapy water to no avail. When I get tired of looking at its sagging haunches, I might either swap red and blue hoses at the connector block in the spare tire well or just take it to the dealer for diagnosis. I was told the dealer has pressure test equipment for just this purpose.
cachefield - thank you so much!
It is how I imagined the clip looks like and glad that the inner ring is still in place securing the connection. Looks like the clip is definitely re-useable (as you said pry it open carefully with picks, paperclip, or safety pin) and I could super glue the pieces together before putting it back in. But yeah I won't risk it until I really need to do this.
Because the photos in older posts tend to disappear after a few years, I gathered the relevant posts and images for this DIY into a single PDF file, attached, "Replacing Air Spring on E39 Touring by BimmerForums member MLue1 et al.pdf". Thanks to MLue1 and others for a great write-up. I expect to need this sometime in the future.
Regards,
2014 i3 BEV, 2016 X5 xDrive40e
Myrtle Beach SC
Great job Stephen, the PDF file captures everything for prosperity, it's easier for others to print and work from.
The wife and I are spending more and more time on Hilton Head,...Myrtle Beach, is not too far for us.
This is a great write-up with very helpful pictures.
I was able to install the driver's side air spring with no trouble.
However, on the passenger side I've been unable to get a good connection between the air spring and the hose/brass fitting, though the circlip appears undamaged. I can slide it on but it does not appear, judging by eye, to be as deeply seated as the driver's side. And there is an obvious leak at this point.
Of course, I'd rather replace the circlip first to see if that's the problem. But I cannot find it as a part to buy separately. The entire air reservoir and pipe (about $80 most places I've found) also does not appear to include the circlip.
Would anyone know where I can find this part or have any other tips?
Thanks.
Mark
2000 528iT (E39)
I don't think an inch a day is too far out of spec, or expectations at least. Mine sags probably that much at 125K miles. Each day when I get in, it pumps up for 10-20 seconds as i drive off. When you have a true spring failure, it will be pumping constantly, or when you get to a stoplight.
I wonder if you could use a ziptie or wire ties as a substitute for the circlip. I think it's there mostly as a safety so that the brass fitting doesn't pop off. But i think that the brass fitting and the bearing inside it are what do most of the work. If you could implement sometime of clench, it would probably be fine.
Mahalo Tinius!
Last edited by dashZD; 12-18-2012 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Could be. It was my layman's impression the circlip help with the seal but I would not be surprised to know that was completely wrong. My neighbor suggested I just pour liquid acrylic over the whole thing and be done with it. Yeah…no.
I may have an answer to this question, at least. I finally found someone who actually took a look at the part rather than relying on the part's photos. He says it seems the design has changed such that that circlip is either no longer necessary or is part of the assembly in some other way. I wasn't too clear. I'm going to order it anyway and see if it works.
Still, if anyone has any other thoughts or experience with this situation I'd love to hear it.
Mark
2000 528iT (E39)
I had a peek at my setup. I am sure that under duress, something could be rigged to work, but having the correct clip is ideal. I would get the right clip, or whole assembly if needed.
99 540iT, Jet Black on Black. Dinan mods ( CAI, MAF, TB, Brace, Stage 4 engine and tranny software ). 00 750iL, Jet Black on Black. MPars, Sport Steering wheel, alpina replica lip. 05 Mini S, Dinan CAI, Strut brace, UUC exhaust.
Mark, if you do find the circlip, please publish the source and price. I'll likely order a couple to keep in reserve. As our Tourings get older, I expect unique parts and systems, such as the Electronic Height Control (SLS), will get harder and harder to find.
...
As I see today's E39 Touring population age and diminish, I often think I should look for another, as nearly new and pristine as I can find, and stash it away for the day when my current touring bites the dust or can't be fixed.
In 2000 I actually bought and stored a second 9-year-old Honda Accord wagon for exactly that reason. Little did I know that by 2005 an E39 528iT would become affordable and take their place.
Ramblin' regards,
2014 i3 BEV, 2016 X5 xDrive40e
Myrtle Beach SC
The black plastic clip is included in the brass fitting when you purchase the tank.
I just did just so I have a clip ready incase I cannot salvage my broken one. Good thing is it cost only $60 from thebmwpartstore (forum vendor).
Just as an FYI, a buddy had the right side of the car sagging after a couple of days of none use, we used soap and water to check the lines to no avail, it turned out that one of the tanks was corroded and leaking. The road salt prolly contributed to the corrosion.
Hi. Newbie here.
Just lost air at the left rear of my e39 wagon. I heard it leaking as I was walking from the garage to the house. Didn't think anything of it ... Until I saw it in the morning!
Yikes! I kinda panicked. Both sides of the rear shocks are sagging. Like the photos posted here. After finding this thread, I breathed a sigh of relief. Maybe I'll attempt to do this repair myself.
I just want to thank everyone that posted and saved this thread. I'm still not sure I can do this myself, as I haven't done repair work in years. But this one looks doable.
I live in Morris county, NJ. Any suggestions on the best place to buy the parts?
Also, I was wondering whether anyone has had this repair done outside of a dealership? How much would this repair cost, ballpark?
Has anyone actually replaced this whole self-leveling system with a standard rear shock setup, Bilstein or whatever? Is it worth it? I'm just thinking, as the car ages, more of the other parts could fail. Like the air pump, the tank, etc...
Thank you again!
I buy most if not all of my OE parts from Mike at TheBMWPartStore.
You can order through his thread or their website.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...586003&page=70
Website - http://www.thebmwpartstore.com/
Just tell him the part numbers or if you don't know tell him what you need and he would look them up for your car.
An air spring is $150 with free ship.
Last edited by yersole; 12-30-2012 at 12:36 PM.
Bmwpartssource.com has been ok to me. They are Faulkner BMW. Prices are good. I think the airbag is less than 160 there.
99 540iT, Jet Black on Black. Dinan mods ( CAI, MAF, TB, Brace, Stage 4 engine and tranny software ). 00 750iL, Jet Black on Black. MPars, Sport Steering wheel, alpina replica lip. 05 Mini S, Dinan CAI, Strut brace, UUC exhaust.
Thank you for all the leads. I'll attempt to do this air bag replacement myself. Maybe take some pictures too.
This is my weekend car and I really love driving it. The potential cost of repairs kind of have me worried, now that it's approaching 90k miles. But it hasn't been too bad.
Possible add to thread: Does anybody know where the air spring relay is located? realoem.org doesn't really indicate.
Thanks much,
Tom
2002 525iTA
226,000 mi.
2002 E39 2.5D TOURING 200,000 miles & still runs sweet..Thanx so much for the info "JUST SAVES YOU FROM BREAKING THINGS" ie plastic retaining clips so after reading the posts ordered 2 before doing the fix & collected sametime as new airbag & did i break it YES..! Effective but poor design..Do all my own repairs/serviceing ect..Refited new Airspring today 9/1/2013...Just followed your simple instructions & it was fixed in 45 mins..Warning light stayed on dash so took car out for a little drive & after about 3/4 mile went out..THINK YOU MUST GIVE IT TIME TOO RESET ITSELF...Noticed while doing this fix that the Subframe bushes might need replacing so think that will be my next job to do..HAVE TO WAIT FOR SOME WARMER HOPFULLY DRIER UK WEATHER 1ST THOUGH What would we do without people like you..Save us ££££s on garage bills :-)
If you follow the red and blue hoses out of the base of the pump, it should lead to the battery area. I believe that is the relay you are looking for.
I don't have an actual pic of the air spring relay but it should be located roughly where the EHC Control Module is located or under the Compressor. The compressor draws alot of amps so if it is not under the compressor you should be able to track it down by tracing the wires comming out of the compressor.
These pics are all I have.
Good Luck
Last edited by MLue1; 01-13-2013 at 01:32 AM. Reason: Adding info
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