2001 3.0i
I'm sure you guys have dealt with this before and I have searched through the posts, drivers door handle does not always open the door. i can push on the door a little from the outside and pull up on the handle but i want to fix it.
BTW, the dealer says that i have to replace the part. $450 after laughing i thought i would look into this further with the gurus. Recommendations?
Also, Is there a "how to" on pulling the door panel and fixing/replacing this thing?
Thanks,
Blu
i had this problem as well, door would be hard to or would not open at all unless i put pressure on the door. after some quick read-thrus on some threads regarding the problem, i came upon two main solutions: 1) using a torx tool to twiddle with the latch (on the car, not the door) and 2) simply lubing up the door latch mechanism (on the door)
considering i only had a spray available with me at the time, i went for option 2 since it was easier and cheaper.. and after a quick few sprays, the door opened with ease..
1999 Z3 Coupe
Removed: spare/jack/tool kit/fog lights/A/C/knee bolsters/center cargo bulkhead/subwoofer housing/rear wiper/trunk floor
Forbes diff mount/trunk floor reinforcement
Forbes custom bolt-in rollbar
Whalen Shift Machine and billet hood release handle
TCK S/A coilovers
16" x 9" BBS E26 3-piece magnesium racing rims
Unorthodox crank & alternator pulleys
3.0 300mm discs with PF pads and braided stainless lines
Shift light & MZ3 shifter
Momo steering wheel
lightweight motorcycle battery
Corbeau seats
IE subframe bushings
Straight pipe w/resonator tips
Current weight, 04-26-09: 2,680 lbs, 55.7%/44.3% CAT certified
I have this issue. What I discovered much later is that if you tug the door handle from the side closest to the rear edge of the door, it opens!
Thanks to all. Byron, nice photo gallery.
You may have saved me $450 from the rotten dealer.
I'll let you know.
Blu
Yep, the grease did it.
Interesting that the latch has a plastic coating that has worn off at the end. my guess is that this is like a permanent lubrication so grease doesn't have to be added to the catch. Well, it does now.
Thanks
If it turns out that grease won't fix it, I have the complete door handle assembly. It was replaced by the dealer under warranty when I was having problems with the lock cylinder spinning in place. I have both sides available as I recently replaced them both with chrome handles. Anyhow, let me know if your interesed, and if you buy my rear bumper, you can it free.
Here're a DIY for fixing the spinning lock cylinder problem.
I'm not sure why the dealer chose to replace the whole thing, but it was under warranty.
ha yeah I had this same problem a little liquid wrench fixed mine!
If anyone else has this problem, I recommend using white lithium grease in spray form.
I might go ahead and put some on there to make sure i dont run into that problem
Yes, i used the white spray grease.
For now It worked great.
I am having a similar problem but my doorhandle by the lock seems to be coming off the door about 1/16". If I press on the lock/plastic (right rear side) the door opens fine. This is annoying when having the car worked on. The mechanic always asks 'what's up' and I tell them I have an 'anti-theft lock'....hillbilly style. I think I am going to need more than lube for this fix.
Robert
98 Silver Z3 Roadster 2.8 (6/07-3/09)
Currently Bimmerless :/
Hey wow. I had this problem and it was going to cost me a couple hundy to fix. I just sprayed w-40 in to the latch, and it fixed the problem! Thanks guys!
+1 on the white lithium grease. My driver's door would only open from the outside some of the time. I was going to disassemble and check for bent parts before the door stayed permanently closed. I saw a post on this forum to try the lithium on the latch mechanism (in the door jam). I was suspicious it could be this simple, but am very happy I have not had a problem since. It is now part of my routine maintenance to grease the latch mechanisms.
I put it mostly on the hook part (of the latch) and barely any on the striker post (on the door jamb).
In both cases, just a smear will do, as you don't want to be dragging your clothes (or worse: wife/gf's clothes) across it.
You can always put more grease on a year later, when it starts to act up again
I have a 2001 Z3 Coupe.
On both doors, I need to press above or below the handle, or lift upward from the handle, to open the doors. From the inside, both doors open fine.
WD-40 and Grease DID NOT work for me.
However, success achieved by using Torx socket to loosen latch on car (not door) and pushing it down and out a bit, and then re-tightened.
All your comments were useful too. Thanks.
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