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Thread: >>>E34 FAQ<<< **PLEASE** READ HERE Before Posting Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
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    Posts
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    My Cars
    bf.c e34 contour

    >>>E34 FAQ<<< **PLEASE** READ HERE Before Posting Questions

    E34 Forum Members (newbie or OG):
    Please read over the FAQ... all of it.
    I have tried to organize it into more manageable sections with the most frequent questions and helpful answers.
    It should take no more than a couple of minutes to scroll thru and find an answer, and no more than 5 minutes per section to read it.

    Some answers are a bit tongue in cheek... but will give you a taste of what to expect in the forum itself.
    Tips for newbies: Click on links that say 'search' and it will take you to a search with the best keywords for that question.
    This is provided just in case you don't know the technical terms or common terminology used by the forum, and should help you get more valid and up-to-date results than a single link.

    As always much thanks to Binjammin for lighting a fire under my butt to create this.
    Thanks also to the rest of the e34 group, without whom this FAQ would not be possible.
    Thanks guys for almost two years of great assistance and e34 knowledge sharing as our own subforum!!!
    -A/E

    Maintenance:

    Any good manuals or books that I should buy?

    A: yes the Bentley manual will answer and assist with many questions
    other online resources, like owners manuals, etc., were complied by forums members & can be found <<<HERE>>>


    What will eventually break?
    EDGE E34 Problem Checklists

    How do I reset the 'Oil service' or 'Inspection' indicator after doing my own work?
    Oil service reset DIY

    Maintenance/Inspection tables?
    Bentley List/Inspection II PDF


    1: what weight/brand oil should I use?

    M20

    M30 15w-50 (depending on area weather also.. but M50 recommendations are good also)

    M50: 20w50 or 10w40 winter anything lighter (in my experience) may cause lifter noise

    M60

    S38B36: 15w-40 or 15w-50


    Example of M50 owner's manual oil chart:


    2: what grade gasoline?

    m20
    m30 87 stock/91 chipped
    m50 91-93 octane
    m60

    NOTE: anything chipped should use 91-93


    3: where can I buy parts besides the dealership?

    BMA
    AutohausAZ
    Pelican Parts
    fellow forum members
    Ebay


    4: How can I find what part numbers I need?

    Realoem.com (no hotlinking diagrams )

    BMWfans (hotlinkable diagrams!!!)




    5: what product should i use to take care of my leather, black trim, etc etc.

    this is also subjective...
    Leather: colorplus or leatherique are popular
    Black trim: Forever black, back to black are easiest to find.
    Seriously though...Bf.C has an excellent detailing subforum ... take a look there.


    6: Intermittent simultaneous failure of wipers, sunroof, windows, central locking, radio... (or no power but battery is good)

    fusible link problems




    Engine:


    1: what engine do I have?
    525i m20b25 89-90
    525i m50b25 91-92
    525i m50TU 93+

    535 M30b35 89-93

    530 m60b30 92-95

    540 m60b40 92-95

    M5 S38b36 - all US-spec &'89 -'92 Euro
    S38b38 - '92-'96 Euro



    2: what is this Alusil/Nikasil thing? (v8 only)

    Nikasil/Alusil reading

    3: My car stutters. Why? English is not it's primary language...
    Seriously someone asked this and I'd like to know what their answer is. I've never experienced it.

    4: My car overheats, why? What can I do to fix this?
    Water pump, fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, possibly needs bleeding if you just finished working on some part of the cooling system.

    5: How can I improve power?

    OG Power Upgrade Page

    6: what is VANOS?

    VANOS info

    7: what spark plugs should I use?


    Transmission & Gearing


    1: What transmission do I have? Is top gear overdrive?

    Manuals:


    Autos:



    2: I have ___ transmisson and _____ problem, what are the possible causes/fixes?

    Well, I'm going to take the easy way out here and say... Search the forums. If you can be at least that specific, then you can probably find a couple of possibilities...

    3: What differential do I have? what can I swap in?
    Extracted from Diff chart E34.net and corrected where needed

    525i M20 89-91 5 speed 3.73

    525i M20 89-91 Automatic 4.10

    525i M50 5 speed 3.23

    525i M50 Automatic 4.10

    535i 5 speed 3.46

    535i ->6/90 Automatic 3.91

    535i 7/90-> Automatic 4.27

    530i 5 speed (M60) 3.07

    530i Automatic (M60) 3.15

    530i 5 speed (M30) 3.64

    540i ->3/04 2.93

    540i 4/94-> 2.81

    M5 3.6 ->7/91 3.91

    M5 3.6 7/91-> 3.73






    Brakes:


    1: what different brakes will fit my car?
    Factory Brake Interchange Chart
    TCD also recently released an e34 BBK which uses C5 calipers (but requires 17" spare)
    Bruno is working on a kit/brackets to use with off the shelf Wilwood calipers.
    forum member Jan K /5mall5nail5 has built his own kit using radial mount wilwood 6pistons and larger diameter OEM BMW rotors,
    you can buy the mounts from him and source the other parts yourself from your choice of discounters. Check for details at newsweden.com

    2: what are some recommended pads?
    Hawk HPS, HP+, Raybestos QS and others... best is to search and/or research for yourself. Everyone is looking for some compromise between quiet, rotor friendly, dustiness, cold performance, and maximum braking power.

    3: which is better, slotted, drilled, or plain?

    http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintena...akeRotors.html

    I like plain or slotted as they are less likely to have been done "incorrectly" than drilled...

    but a <<<search>>> will turn up more opinions and info that you would ever want to know.



    Major updates to the E34 along the model cycle:
    1989: 525i/535i debut in North America
    1991: M50 debuts in 525i, replacing M20
    1992: 525iT debuts in North America
    1993: M50TU debuts in 525i, replacing M50
    mid-1993: 530i/540i replace 535i. M60 engine replaces M30. 530iT debuts.
    1994: Prewiring for autodim mirror/rear maplights changes to PnP harness. Search for more info.
    1995: 525i gets wide grill from 530/540.
    Changes are MTech sideskirts, body colored lowers, gathered leather door panels, repeaters, &
    power telescoping steering column (late build), EWSII (1/95+), and a colored roundel on steering wheel.
    525i Value Edition (stripper model) is available.
    525i Olympic Edition also available: featured rear headrests and green piping on the seats...








    Wheels:


    1: Will the wheels from _____ model BMW fit?

    A: ALL 5 lug BMW wheels that are NOT from one of the 3 series, 3 variants (z3/z4) or SAVs (x5 x3) will fit.
    Exceptions: e30 M3 wheels will fit, e39 5series wheels will only fit with a hubcentric ring... see #2.


    2: what is hub bore diameter? why do I care?

    BMW wheels are hubcentric, not lugcentric. This means the hub is what holds the wheels centered, not the lugs.
    As a result, it is very important that the hub bore is the correct diameter, 72.56mm.
    E39s are oddballs, they use a 74.1 mm hub hole diameter, which requires the use of hubcentric rings on our cars. It is recommended by members here that you call jim @ the tire rack to order the aluminum rings if the wheels you want are e39 fitment, or you can also order plastic rings from discount tire (A670). As to which is better? <<<SEARCH>>>

    3: what is the bolt pattern and offset?

    A: bolt pattern is 5x120mm, NORMAL offset is in the ET 20 range... though many larger/wider wheels are et15 which is fine.

    4: what are the widest wheels I can run?

    A: I don't want to touch that one except generally.. but 8.5 front is almost standard aftermarket fitment and 9.5 rear is also about standard when using "staggered" wheel fitment. Others have wider rims, but for that i recommend <<<search>>> as ET, tire sizing, and ride height and even tire BRAND can become critical factors.

    5: what are the largest diameter wheels I can run?

    A: 20's have been done, rarely. 19's are a lowered street driven car's limit IMO, and 18's are the most common "large" size. 17's are probably the best handling and riding, and every inch bigger than 17" is an ever bigger trade off between looks and performance/durability.

    6: what size tires do I need?

    Something with an OD very similar to the stock tire size.
    For me that is a 245/40/18 all around.
    other frequent choices are 235/40/18 and 255 (or 265)/35/18 in 18.
    Others are 245/45/17 or 235/45/17 and 255/40/17 in 17.
    there are numerous tire calculators on the web to assist, if you just plug in the OEM tire size.

    Suspension:


    1: shimmy at 50-60? especially after larger wheels?

    Most often thrust arm bushings need replacing. Use 750 or m5 complete arms from reputable manufacturers, lemforder seems to be the best according to board members. It is difficult and false economy to try and replace only the bushings. And yes, the additional weight from larger wheels may cause the problem to become noticeable though it never exibited it on the OEM 15's.

    2: What springs/shocks should I choose?

    This is absolutely a subjective choice. I suggest <<<SEARCH>>>
    And then search some more.

    3: How low will ________ get my car?

    Vogtland
    Drop: 1.8" (45mm) front and 0.8" (20mm) rear
    H&R
    Drop: 1.3” (33mm) front and 0.75” (19mm) rear
    Eibach
    Drop: 1.2” (30mm) front and 1” (25mm) rear
    Bavauto
    Drop: 1.5” (38mm) front and 1” (25mm) rear

    Also remember to search.

    4: What is SLS/LAD and do I have it?

    SLS/LAD is a hydro-neumatic suspension used on the rear of m5s and also 92-93 Touring models (US) Works very similarly to Lowriders, with a hydraulic pump, accumulator, and spring to provide a good ride and maintain height between loaded and unloaded... instead of lifting and lowering.

    5: What else can I do to improve my steering/suspension?

    Sway Bar Upgrade, Poly bushings, strut tower brace, replace wear items like thrust arms, drag link, pitman arm, tighten steering box, etc.


    Lighting:

    1: what are smileys/ ellipsoids/ free forms?

    Names for the 3 different kind of headlights available on e34s.
    US got ellipsoids (projectors) for all but two years
    free forms were available those two years, and were far worse (either 91-92 or 92-93).
    Smileys is the nick name for E-code projectors, which are the best of the 3.

    2: what kind of Taillights can I get for my sedan?

    Hella made clear turnsignal lights and smoked lights for your enjoyment.
    LOADS of off brand stuff on ebay, as well, if your tastes swing that way.

    3: what kind of taillights can i get for my Touring?

    None. Seriously. It is DIY paint mods like, red-ed turns or DIY smoked tails or leave em OEM.
    The rumours are not true, there were never OEM clears in Europe or South Africa, or OZ, or Japan, or anywhere else.
    Hella never made any clears or smoked lenses for Tourings, and there are so few Tourings that the Ebay guys don't make them either. And no, sedan lights don't fit the Touring, outer or inner... sorry!
    ---"But I have seen pictures!" you say?---
    Radicast in Sweden once upon a time, in a galaxy far far away, made clear rear turn signal lenses you could glue in after carefully cutting out the oem amber turns, but those were the only 'aftermarket' lenses ever made for them... They WERE NLA and never came up for sale anywhere.

    -UPDATE- Looks like as of today 9/14/08 that radicast is offering them again on their website.
    Elekta notes the price in dollars is about $180+ shipping from sweden.


    4: Can I add HIDs?
    Yes you can... <<<search>>>

    5: Brake circuit, Low beam, foglight, or other check control messages

    Please take the 30-60 seconds to search the forum for the exact message as it is spelled ... or for it in Clear language.



    Stereo:


    1: Can I add ______ to my factory radio?

    Remember this radio was originally designed in ~1989. If it existed before or by then, probably.
    Luckily the CD43, which is newer, is a plug n play option for 91+ e34s. There are many more add on devices for it.

    2: Why does my factory radio say CODE?

    When power is disconnected, it requires you to enter the antitheft code to reactivate the radio.

    3: Can I swap to an aftermarket radio?

    YES!!!

    4: Can I bypass the factory amp?


    94-95 no, sorry. take it to a pro to build all new passive xovers for all 10 speakers
    <94 yes but needs an aftermarket radio or an external 4 channel amp

    92-93 yes no problem
    89-91 maybe... if you are skilled and/or can get moroza to take pics of his amp for reference.

    5: What sizes are the speakers? are there any "plug n play" replacements?

    sizing:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=620090

    plug n play replacements:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=speaker+size






    INTERIOR:

    1: What are the test functions on the OBC I keep hearing about?

    OBC instructions

    OBC TESTS
    your e34 will have the OBC IV, BTW.

    2: Why does my car ding when it's 38 degrees?

    Simply to warn you that it is cold outside!
    At 38 degrees the possibility of ice forming on overpasses and bridges begins, thus the 38 degree ding.

    3: Can I jump the car without removing the back seat?

    Sure, there is a jump terminal under the hood.

    4: How do I unlock my car when the battery is dead?

    Read the directions here


    5: What is the black triangle in the middle of the rear shelf?
    apparently on sedans this is the middle position belt holder.


    6:Twisted seat/seat twist fix

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=twisted+seat

    vfaq microfilter

    .pdf of procedure

    http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/...ter%20VFAQ.pdf


    pics of the old filter:




    Common Euro Add ons/ Up spec interior parts

    Rear headrests in U.S. cars
    Rear maplights
    Autodim rearview mirror (pinout)
    Rear lighter
    Lumbar support for both seats
    Sport seats

    Exterior Paint Codes:

    List of BMW e34 paint codes (w/ pics)

    Exterior trim Upgrades:


    Body modifications to E34s (body kits, spoilers, etc.)
    Fortunately, the E34 does not enjoy the availablity of body kits like the E36 does. this means there are very few to choose from, but also means that we are not barraged with unpainted or tacky kits on every other e34 on the road... thank god. If you live for kitting out cars with fiberglass body mods, the e34 may not be for you.

    Bumpers:
    Stock with 540 ducts: '94 540s came with OE brake ducts. Nice look, works on stock non-M bumper and cheapest option (all things considered).
    MTechnik (off of M5/M-Sport 540). Very rare and difficult to find.
    Racing Dynamics: Very rare and difficult to find.
    BBS: Very rare and difficult to find.
    Reiger: I guess they're out there.
    ACS: Good luck and congrats if you get one.
    Ebay specials: Don't.

    Spoilers:
    MTechnik: No 3rd light, screws into trunk. Some like the look, some don't.
    RD: Rare and hard to find.
    Ebay lip: Apparently not bad, just buy good adhesive.

    Skirts:
    MTechnik: Most plentiful, came on MTech cars and all '95s. Need the plastic door bottoms which are unobtainium from the dealer.
    See the bumpers section for aftermarket names.

    Lips:
    MTech: www.abrahamsmotorsport has it.
    Alpina: Good luck finding one.
    BavAuto: Not my favorite, has swoopy sides which don't really fit the E34.

    Mirrors:
    MTech (commonly called "M3 mirrors) even though they were on the M5 first. Some like, some don't.
    ACS: Unique mirrors. Good luck finding them.


    Wipers:
    ACS single wiper conversion
    Single wiper conversions are a love it or hate it thing.
    They were available from ACS back in the day and are basically a modified OEM part.
    A search of the e34 subforum will yield details on exactly what mod is required to make this yourself.


    MISC.

    Here's a PDF of E34 features you may or may not have known about:
    http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?yzznymy2tyw
    Compiled by: "Slocar"


    COMMON ACRONYMS:


    http://www.mbmw.com/bmw_technical_acronyms.htm

    what do they mean?

    A/E: the guy who takes his ball and goes home.

    A/E: Also short hand for Angel Eyes in the rest of the bf.c universe.

    BBK: Big Brake Kit.

    CCM: Check Control Module

    DME: see ECM

    ECM: ( DME ) Engine Control Module Ie. engine computer

    EGS: see TCM

    ETK: BMW's Parts Look Up System

    FBI: People who are watching you, right now.

    GM: General module

    IRS: people who take your money, also Independent Rear Suspension

    LKM: Light Control Module

    LSD: Limited Slip Differential

    OBC: On Board Computer (to the right of the radio)

    OBD: (I or II) On Board Diagnostics: mandatory powertrain fault reporting system.

    PEBKAC: Problem Exist Between Keyboard And Chair- Computer User's error, not a hardware error

    PEBSWAS: Problem Exists Between Steering Wheel and Seat -Driver's error/tastelessness, not vehicle fault

    PPI: Pre-Purchase Inspection (also shorthand for Precision Power, a car stereo company)

    RTAB: Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

    SSK: Short Shift Kit

    TCM: ( EGS ) Transmission Control Module Ie. Trans computer



    Last edited by e24mpwr; 07-01-2017 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Edited initial text ("I will invite you" since account is no longer active

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Eagle's Nest
    Posts
    16,049
    My Cars
    bf.c e34 contour
    was going to upload http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/741en/index.htm
    which i have in pdf, but it;s free online... and takes 120mb
    owners manual http://www.mediafire.com/?aokc2wdxq9ie8bs
    e34 shop manual in pdf (downloadable) http://www.mediafire.com/?50iu0s5c90obm4c

    Most 3 series wheels work, but only with spacers.

    1: What are the test functions on the OBC I keep hearing about? OBC instructions

    OBC TESTS your e34 will have the OBC IV, BTW.

    2: Why does my car ding when it's 38 degrees?

    Simply to warn you that it is cold outside!
    At 38 degrees the possibility of ice forming on overpasses and bridges begins, thus the 38 degree ding.

    3: Can I jump the car without removing the back seat?

    Sure, there is a jump terminal under the hood.

    4: How do I unlock my car when the battery is dead?

    Read the directions here


    5: What is the black triangle in the middle of the rear shelf?
    apparently on sedans this is the middle position belt holder.
    6:Twisted seat/seat twist fix

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=twisted+seat

    Common Euro Add ons/ Up spec interior parts

    Rear headrests in U.S. cars
    Rear maplights
    Autodim rearview mirror (pinout)
    Rear lighter
    Lumbar support for both seats
    Sport seats

    Exterior Paint Codes:

    List of BMW e34 paint codes (w/ pics)

    Exterior trim Upgrades:


    Body modifications to E34s (body kits, spoilers, etc.)
    Fortunately, the E34 does not enjoy the availablity of body kits like the E36 does. this means there are very few to choose from, but also means that we are not barraged with unpainted or tacky kits on every other e34 on the road... thank god. If you live for kitting out cars with fiberglass body mods, the e34 may not be for you.

    Bumpers:
    Stock with 540 ducts: '94 540s came with OE brake ducts. Nice look, works on stock non-M bumper and cheapest option (all things considered).
    MTechnik (off of M5/M-Sport 540). Very rare and difficult to find.
    Racing Dynamics: Very rare and difficult to find.
    BBS: Very rare and difficult to find.
    Reiger: I guess they're out there.
    ACS: Good luck and congrats if you get one.
    Ebay specials: Don't.

    Spoilers:
    MTechnik: No 3rd light, screws into trunk. Some like the look, some don't.
    RD: Rare and hard to find.
    Ebay lip: Apparently not bad, just buy good adhesive.

    Skirts:
    MTechnik: Most plentiful, came on MTech cars and all '95s. Need the plastic door bottoms which are unobtainium from the dealer.
    See the bumpers section for aftermarket names.

    Lips:
    MTech: www.abrahamsmotorsport has it.
    Alpina: Good luck finding one.
    BavAuto: Not my favorite, has swoopy sides which don't really fit the E34.

    Mirrors:
    MTech (commonly called "M3 mirrors) even though they were on the M5 first. Some like, some don't.
    ACS: Unique mirrors. Good luck finding them.


    Wipers:
    ACS single wiper conversion
    Single wiper conversions are a love it or hate it thing.
    They were available from ACS back in the day and are basically a modified OEM part.
    A search of the e34 subforum will yield details on exactly what mod is required to make this yourself.


    MISC.

    Here's a PDF of E34 features you may or may not have known about:
    http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?yzznymy2tyw
    Compiled by: "Slocar"


    COMMON ACRONYMS:


    http://www.mbmw.com/bmw_technical_acronyms.htm

    what do they mean?

    A/E: (AE) Shorthand for some random e34iT guy. Short for 'attack eagle', the nick for the former logo of the University of Southern Mississippi.

    A/E: Also short hand for Angel Eyes in the rest of the bf.c universe.

    BBK: Big Brake Kit.

    CCM: Check Control Module

    DME: see ECM

    ECM: ( DME ) Engine Control Module Ie. engine computer

    EGS: see TCM

    ETK: BMW's Parts Look Up System

    FBI: People who are watching you, right now.

    GM: General module

    IRS: people who take your money, also Independent Rear Suspension

    LKM: Light Control Module

    LSD: Limited Slip Differential

    OBC: On Board Computer (to the right of the radio)

    OBD: (I or II) On Board Diagnostics: mandatory powertrain fault reporting system.

    PEBKAC: Problem Exist Between Keyboard And Chair- Computer User's error, not a hardware error

    PEBSWAS: Problem Exists Between Steering Wheel and Seat -Driver's error/tastelessness, not vehicle fault

    PPI: Pre-Purchase Inspection (also shorthand for Precision Power, a car stereo company)

    RTAB: Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

    SSK: Short Shift Kit

    TCM: ( EGS ) Transmission Control Module Ie. Trans computer


    Maintenance:

    Any good manuals or books that I should buy?

    A: yes the Bentley manual will answer and assist with many questions
    other online resources, like owners manuals, etc., were complied by forums members & can be found <<<HERE>>>


    What will eventually break?
    EDGE E34 Problem Checklists

    How do I reset the 'Oil service' or 'Inspection' indicator after doing my own work?
    Oil service reset DIY

    Maintenance/Inspection tables?
    Bentley List/Inspection II PDF


    1: what weight/brand oil should I use?

    M20

    M30 15w-50 (depending on area weather also.. but M50 recommendations are good also)

    M50: 20w50 or 10w40 winter anything lighter (in my experience) may cause lifter noise

    M60

    S38B36: 15w-40 or 15w-50


    Example of M50 owner's manual oil chart:


    2: what grade gasoline?

    m20
    m30 87 stock/91 chipped
    m50 91-93 octane
    m60

    NOTE: anything chipped should use 91-93

    4: How can I find what part numbers I need?

    Realoem.com (no hotlinking diagrams )

    BMWfans (hotlinkable diagrams!!!)

    5: what product should i use to take care of my leather, black trim, etc etc.

    this is also subjective...
    Leather: colorplus or leatherique are popular
    Black trim: Forever black, back to black are easiest to find.
    Seriously though...Bf.C has an excellent detailing subforum ... take a look there.

    6: Intermittent simultaneous failure of wipers, sunroof, windows, central locking, radio... (or no power but battery is good)

    fusible link problems

    Engine:
    1: what engine do I have?
    525i m20b25 89-90
    525i m50b25 91-92
    525i m50TU 93+
    535 M30b35 89-93
    530 m60b30 92-95
    540 m60b40 92-95
    M5 S38b36 - all US-spec &'89 -'92 Euro
    S38b38 - '92-'96 Euro


    2: what is this Alusil/Nikasil thing? (v8 only)

    Nikasil/Alusil reading

    3: My car stutters. Why? English is not it's primary language...
    Seriously someone asked this and I'd like to know what their answer is. I've never experienced it.

    4: My car overheats, why? What can I do to fix this?
    Water pump, fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, possibly needs bleeding if you just finished working on some part of the cooling system.

    5: How can I improve power?

    OG Power Upgrade Page

    6: what is VANOS?

    VANOS info

    7: what spark plugs should I use?


    Transmission & Gearing


    1: What transmission do I have? Is top gear overdrive?

    Manuals:


    Autos:

    2: I have ___ transmisson and _____ problem, what are the possible causes/fixes?

    Well, I'm going to take the easy way out here and say... Search the forums. If you can be at least that specific, then you can probably find a couple of possibilities...

    3: What differential do I have? what can I swap in?
    Extracted from Diff chart E34.net and corrected where needed

    525i M20 89-91 5 speed 3.73
    525i M20 89-91 Automatic 4.10
    525i M50 5 speed 3.23
    525i M50 Automatic 4.10
    535i 5 speed 3.46
    535i ->6/90 Automatic 3.91
    535i 7/90-> Automatic 4.27
    530i 5 speed (M60) 3.07
    530i Automatic (M60) 3.15
    530i 5 speed (M30) 3.64
    540i ->3/04 2.93
    540i 4/94-> 2.81
    M5 3.6 ->7/91 3.91
    M5 3.6 7/91-> 3.73


    Brakes:

    1: what different brakes will fit my car?
    Factory Brake Interchange Chart
    TCD also recently released an e34 BBK which uses C5 calipers (but requires 17" spare)
    Bruno is working on a kit/brackets to use with off the shelf Wilwood calipers.
    forum member Jan K /5mall5nail5 has built his own kit using radial mount wilwood 6pistons and larger diameter OEM BMW rotors,
    you can buy the mounts from him and source the other parts yourself from your choice of discounters. Check for details at newsweden.com

    2: what are some recommended pads?
    Hawk HPS, HP+, Raybestos QS and others... best is to search and/or research for yourself. Everyone is looking for some compromise between quiet, rotor friendly, dustiness, cold performance, and maximum braking power.

    3: which is better, slotted, drilled, or plain?

    http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintena...akeRotors.html

    I like plain or slotted as they are less likely to have been done "incorrectly" than drilled...

    but a <<<search>>> will turn up more opinions and info that you would ever want to know.
    Major updates to the E34 along the model cycle:
    1989: 525i/535i debut in North America
    1991: M50 debuts in 525i, replacing M20
    1992: 525iT debuts in North America
    1993: M50TU debuts in 525i, replacing M50
    mid-1993: 530i/540i replace 535i. M60 engine replaces M30. 530iT debuts.
    1994: Prewiring for autodim mirror/rear maplights changes to PnP harness. Search for more info.
    1995: 525i gets wide grill from 530/540.
    Changes are MTech sideskirts, body colored lowers, gathered leather door panels, repeaters, &
    power telescoping steering column (late build), EWSII (1/95+), and a colored roundel on steering wheel.
    525i Value Edition (stripper model) is available.
    525i Olympic Edition also available: featured rear headrests and green piping on the seats...

    Wheels:
    1: Will the wheels from _____ model BMW fit?
    A: ALL 5 lug BMW wheels that are NOT from one of the 3 series, 3 variants (z3/z4) or SAVs (x5 x3) will fit.
    Exceptions: e30 M3 wheels will fit, e39 5series wheels will only fit with a hubcentric ring... see #2.
    2: what is hub bore diameter? why do I care?
    BMW wheels are hubcentric, not lugcentric. This means the hub is what holds the wheels centered, not the lugs.
    As a result, it is very important that the hub bore is the correct diameter, 72.56mm.
    E39s are oddballs, they use a 74.1 mm hub hole diameter, which requires the use of hubcentric rings on our cars. It is recommended by members here that you call jim @ the tire rack to order the aluminum rings if the wheels you want are e39 fitment, or you can also order plastic rings from discount tire (A670). As to which is better? <<<SEARCH>>>

    3: what is the bolt pattern and offset?

    A: bolt pattern is 5x120mm, NORMAL offset is in the ET 20 range... though many larger/wider wheels are et15 which is fine.

    4: what are the widest wheels I can run?

    A: I don't want to touch that one except generally.. but 8.5 front is almost standard aftermarket fitment and 9.5 rear is also about standard when using "staggered" wheel fitment. Others have wider rims, but for that i recommend <<<search>>> as ET, tire sizing, and ride height and even tire BRAND can become critical factors.

    5: what are the largest diameter wheels I can run?

    A: 20's have been done, rarely. 19's are a lowered street driven car's limit IMO, and 18's are the most common "large" size. 17's are probably the best handling and riding, and every inch bigger than 17" is an ever bigger trade off between looks and performance/durability.

    6: what size tires do I need?

    Something with an OD very similar to the stock tire size.
    For me that is a 245/40/18 all around.
    other frequent choices are 235/40/18 and 255 (or 265)/35/18 in 18.
    Others are 245/45/17 or 235/45/17 and 255/40/17 in 17.
    there are numerous tire calculators on the web to assist, if you just plug in the OEM tire size.

    Suspension:


    1: shimmy at 50-60? especially after larger wheels?

    Most often thrust arm bushings need replacing. Use 750 or m5 complete arms from reputable manufacturers, lemforder seems to be the best according to board members. It is difficult and false economy to try and replace only the bushings. And yes, the additional weight from larger wheels may cause the problem to become noticeable though it never exibited it on the OEM 15's.

    2: What springs/shocks should I choose?

    This is absolutely a subjective choice. I suggest <<<SEARCH>>>
    And then search some more.

    3: How low will ________ get my car?

    Vogtland
    Drop: 1.8" (45mm) front and 0.8" (20mm) rear
    H&R
    Drop: 1.3” (33mm) front and 0.75” (19mm) rear
    Eibach
    Drop: 1.2” (30mm) front and 1” (25mm) rear
    Bavauto
    Drop: 1.5” (38mm) front and 1” (25mm) rear

    Also remember to search.

    4: What is SLS/LAD and do I have it?

    SLS/LAD is a hydro-neumatic suspension used on the rear of m5s and also 92-93 Touring models (US) Works very similarly to Lowriders, with a hydraulic pump, accumulator, and spring to provide a good ride and maintain height between loaded and unloaded... instead of lifting and lowering.

    5: What else can I do to improve my steering/suspension?

    Sway Bar Upgrade, Poly bushings, strut tower brace, replace wear items like thrust arms, drag link, pitman arm, tighten steering box, etc.


    Lighting:

    1: what are smileys/ ellipsoids/ free forms?

    Names for the 3 different kind of headlights available on e34s.
    US got ellipsoids (projectors) for all but two years
    free forms were available those two years, and were far worse (either 91-92 or 92-93).
    Smileys is the nick name for E-code projectors, which are the best of the 3.

    2: what kind of Taillights can I get for my sedan?

    Hella made clear turnsignal lights and smoked lights for your enjoyment.
    LOADS of off brand stuff on ebay, as well, if your tastes swing that way.

    3: what kind of taillights can i get for my Touring?

    None. Seriously. It is DIY paint mods like, red-ed turns or DIY smoked tails or leave em OEM.
    The rumours are not true, there were never OEM clears in Europe or South Africa, or OZ, or Japan, or anywhere else.
    Hella never made any clears or smoked lenses for Tourings, and there are so few Tourings that the Ebay guys don't make them either. And no, sedan lights don't fit the Touring, outer or inner... sorry!
    ---"But I have seen pictures!" you say?---
    Radicast in Sweden once upon a time, in a galaxy far far away, made clear rear turn signal lenses you could glue in after carefully cutting out the oem amber turns, but those were the only 'aftermarket' lenses ever made for them... They WERE NLA and never came up for sale anywhere.

    -UPDATE- Looks like as of today 9/14/08 that radicast is offering them again on their website.
    Elekta notes the price in dollars is about $180+ shipping from sweden.


    4: Can I add HIDs?
    Yes you can... <<<search>>>

    5: Brake circuit, Low beam, foglight, or other check control messages

    Please take the 30-60 seconds to search the forum for the exact message as it is spelled ... or for it in Clear language.

    Stereo:


    1: Can I add ______ to my factory radio?

    Remember this radio was originally designed in ~1989. If it existed before or by then, probably.
    Luckily the CD43, which is newer, is a plug n play option for 91+ e34s. There are many more add on devices for it.

    2: Why does my factory radio say CODE?

    When power is disconnected, it requires you to enter the antitheft code to reactivate the radio.

    3: Can I swap to an aftermarket radio?

    YES!!!

    4: Can I bypass the factory amp?

    94-95 no, sorry. take it to a pro to build all new passive xovers for all 10 speakers
    <94 yes but needs an aftermarket radio or an external 4 channel amp
    92-93 yes no problem
    89-91 maybe... if you are skilled and/or can get moroza to take pics of his amp for reference.

    5: What sizes are the speakers? are there any "plug n play" replacements?

    sizing:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=620090


    INTERIOR:

    1: What are the test functions on the OBC I keep hearing about?

    OBC instructions

    OBC TESTS
    your e34 will have the OBC IV, BTW.

    2: Why does my car ding when it's 38 degrees?

    Simply to warn you that it is cold outside!
    At 38 degrees the possibility of ice forming on overpasses and bridges begins, thus the 38 degree ding.

    3: Can I jump the car without removing the back seat?

    Sure, there is a jump terminal under the hood.

    4: How do I unlock my car when the battery is dead?

    Read the directions here


    5: What is the black triangle in the middle of the rear shelf?
    apparently on sedans this is the middle position belt holder.


    6:Twisted seat/seat twist fix

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=twisted+seat

    vfaq microfilter

    .pdf of procedure

    http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/...ter%20VFAQ.pdf

    Common Euro Add ons/ Up spec interior parts

    Rear headrests in U.S. cars
    Rear maplights
    Autodim rearview mirror (pinout)
    Rear lighter
    Lumbar support for both seats
    Sport seats

    Exterior Paint Codes:

    List of BMW e34 paint codes (w/ pics)

    Exterior trim Upgrades:


    Body modifications to E34s (body kits, spoilers, etc.)
    Fortunately, the E34 does not enjoy the availablity of body kits like the E36 does. this means there are very few to choose from, but also means that we are not barraged with unpainted or tacky kits on every other e34 on the road... thank god. If you live for kitting out cars with fiberglass body mods, the e34 may not be for you.

    Bumpers:
    Stock with 540 ducts: '94 540s came with OE brake ducts. Nice look, works on stock non-M bumper and cheapest option (all things considered).
    MTechnik (off of M5/M-Sport 540). Very rare and difficult to find.
    Racing Dynamics: Very rare and difficult to find.
    BBS: Very rare and difficult to find.
    Reiger: I guess they're out there.
    ACS: Good luck and congrats if you get one.
    Ebay specials: Don't.

    Spoilers:
    MTechnik: No 3rd light, screws into trunk. Some like the look, some don't.
    RD: Rare and hard to find.
    Ebay lip: Apparently not bad, just buy good adhesive.

    Skirts:
    MTechnik: Most plentiful, came on MTech cars and all '95s. Need the plastic door bottoms which are unobtainium from the dealer.
    See the bumpers section for aftermarket names.

    Lips:
    MTech: www.abrahamsmotorsport has it.
    Alpina: Good luck finding one.
    BavAuto: Not my favorite, has swoopy sides which don't really fit the E34.

    Mirrors:
    MTech (commonly called "M3 mirrors) even though they were on the M5 first. Some like, some don't.
    ACS: Unique mirrors. Good luck finding them.


    Wipers:
    ACS single wiper conversion
    Single wiper conversions are a love it or hate it thing.
    They were available from ACS back in the day and are basically a modified OEM part.
    A search of the e34 subforum will yield details on exactly what mod is required to make this yourself.


    MISC.

    Here's a PDF of E34 features you may or may not have known about:
    http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?yzznymy2tyw
    Compiled by: "Slocar"


    COMMON ACRONYMS:


    http://www.mbmw.com/bmw_technical_acronyms.htm

    what do they mean?
    A/E: the guy who takes his ball and goes home.
    A/E: Also short hand for Angel Eyes in the rest of the bf.c universe.
    BBK: Big Brake Kit.
    CCM: Check Control Module
    DME: see ECM
    ECM: ( DME ) Engine Control Module Ie. engine computer
    EGS: see TCM
    ETK: BMW's Parts Look Up System
    FBI: People who are watching you, right now.
    GM: General module
    IRS: people who take your money, also Independent Rear Suspension
    LKM: Light Control Module
    LSD: Limited Slip Differential
    OBC: On Board Computer (to the right of the radio)
    OBD: (I or II) On Board Diagnostics: mandatory powertrain fault reporting system.
    PEBKAC: Problem Exist Between Keyboard And Chair- Computer User's error, not a hardware error
    PEBSWAS: Problem Exists Between Steering Wheel and Seat -Driver's error/tastelessness, not vehicle fault
    PPI: Pre-Purchase Inspection (also shorthand for Precision Power, a car stereo company)
    RTAB: Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
    SSK: Short Shift Kit
    TCM: ( EGS ) Transmission Control Module Ie. Trans computer
    Last edited by shogun; 08-27-2018 at 09:28 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Eagle's Nest
    Posts
    16,049
    My Cars
    bf.c e34 contour
    Alarm Install DIY
    OK guys, my alarm came in, though I still have to order the oem connector shell and the pins for that, I can start writing it up for y'all. I'm sitting here at the table wiring and soldering the harness after doing all the needed research, testing, etc.
    Goal as always, as near to factory appearance as possible, no hacking or cutting if at all avoidable, reversible without damage.
    About the chosen unit:
    the RF-420 is a one way AM paging alarm... It is not two way FM... it is not a keyless entry only nor is it a remote start.
    EDIT 05/12/10 - the 420 LCD is out of production, the replacement is the 425-LCD and appears to be identical except the remote is nicer.




    It has an external starter kill relay, onboard door lock relays (selectable for Positive pulse), onboard parking light flash relay, 3 programmable auxiliary channels and two other outputs, an external shock sensor, an external siren, and an additional input for wiring an additional sensor if you choose (microwave/proximity, tilt, glass break, etc).

    In short, it has everything to make all the functions I (and you) want possible, without additional complications or expense.
    Functions desired:
    Auto Double lock Doorlocks
    Flashing parking lights
    Fuel pump interrupt instead of starter kill (just like CODE)
    Window up and Sunroof close from remote
    Pin Protection for all doors, trunk, and hood.
    Touring--- remote hatch open, remote glass open

    As a bonus it is NOT A DEI PRODUCT (viper, python, rattler, other snake, Hornet, clifford etc)... which means every idiot and his brother don't have a remote that can be added, or know the valet mode sequence. I have sold hundreds of Autopage alarms and they are quality units, with good remote availability later if needed.


    Location for alarm will be under the rear seat. Easy access to battery, as well as the Factory alarm 12 pin connector. this location will require extending the wire for the parking lamp flash to the underdash location, as well as the wires for the LED if you want it upfront--- more on that later.

    Information sources/ aka Required Reading:
    RF-420LCD install and operation manual (available online also)
    1992 ETM (available online also)
    BMWE34.net Use caution! Some info is IMO very bogus...
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...=Keyless+entry
    This diagram is all you need from there...

    12volt.com
    http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp
    http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p

    Note- Sedans are much easier... no trunk pop or glass pop needed.
    Supplies Needed:

    Autopage RF-420LCD - Sourced From Ebay seller dimensionaudio for $75 ($13 shipping- may vary)

    Heatshrink of various diameters, from 1/4" all the way to 1/2" or 3/4" ($5-$8 Harborfreight--- optional on larger sizes but i prefer to loom wires via heatshrink)

    Package of diodes 1N4001 (up to 1N4007 acceptable) - recommend sundry package of 25 from radioshack -$2.50 PN 276-1653.

    BMW parts if wanting to make a connector like the oem alarm (i did not end up doing this):
    P/N 61131378138 (1) plastic connector shell for alarm
    P/N 61131376202 (15) bare pins for connector... available with wires for more $$$... extras are spares in case you Fubar one.

    OPTIONAL FEATURES--- PARTS NEEDED:

    Optional 1- automatic double lock-
    requires only package of diodes already purchased

    Optional 2- window rollup from the remote-

    Requires option 1 installed + Fuseholder + 1 additional 'bosch style' relay
    (suggest one with socket and flying leads- ie wires)


    Optional 3- Hatch and Glass Lid Pop (touring)
    Requires 2 additional bosch style relays + Fuse holder
    (suggest again with socket and flying leads- ie wires)


    If you don;t have the factory alarm (ie never did) you will want the siren bracket, 10mm bolt, and the two wire siren connector.
    I do not have the P/N as my car had the Alpine alarm until I ditched it 2 years+ ago.

    Tools needed:


    Brain
    Patience
    BRAIN
    Ability to solder
    Ability to read a rudimentary schematic (this is not a wire by wire & solder by solder pictorial... just isn't possible)
    Multimeter (not a test light!)
    Small flathead Screwdriver (for de-pinning unused wires from the connector instead of ghetto hacking them.)
    Soldering Iron-- preferably both a decent electric + a gas unit for the really thick wires. A $5 electric is ample for all but the biggest connections however.
    Solder - I use 60/40 (doesn;t eat the tip, melts and flows easier) on the largest joints as well as 95/5 (eats the tip, but lead free) on the 2 or less wire connections.
    Helping hands, or a friend w/ the slip joint pliers from e34 tool box to serve as heat sink when soldering diodes.
    NOTE----Diodes are mandatory to join the trunk and hood pins together and to join the FL FR and Rear door pins together for the alarm without F'ing normal vehicle operations-- and the only way to connect them is soldering them in.)
    Good wire strippers (think Klein, not autozone/walmart) or a razorblade knife for stripping wires... or both.
    A kitchen table, or very large workbench... and something to put down so solder doesn't burn it.

    Step 1: Siren
    Location: under cowl, right side
    Access THRU EBOX, not by removing the cowl grill.
    remove Ebox lid, remove tall rubber grommet.
    If you have a factory alarm siren (ie code actually makes NOISE when it goes off) you will need to remove the computer to get that older BMW siren out. This is where the 'horn' pin in the battery box actually goes. No reason to run two wires.

    Remove OEM mount from bmw siren. Cut siren's wires 1/2way between the unit and conenctor at the OEM solder joints.
    This is where the brain comes in. Plan ahead, you need to put the heat shrink for each wire on, as well as three larger id sections to cover everything BEFORE YOU SOLDER THEM TOGETHER
    Solder the connection to the new alarm siren keeping them about the same total length, black to black, blue to red, heatshrink each individual joint, then heatshrink the whole thing.
    Remove the new siren's supplied mount and transfer the oem mount to it.

    Reinstall in the OEM location with 10mm bolt, make sure horn is pointed as down as possible
    Reinstall Grommet, computer if removed, and Ebox Lid.
    Try code function and revel in the wierd sound.
    Step 2: Prepping the harness

    Harness preparation --- coming up next... but my hands are tired.

    The first thing you want to do is decide which wires you will use... or you can just copy exactly what i did and give the old noggin a rest.
    Those you will not be using can easily be de-pinned from the connector

    De-pinning them instead of cutting means if you want to go back and add them later, it is as simple as popping the wire back into the connector again... They also don't take up a bunch of room in the bundle or cause confusion (there are multiple whites for example) as you will see when you need 3/4" heat shrink on some of the bundles.

    Step 2a: De-Pinning the harness

    1: 6 pin Lock harness
    Doorlocks are positive pulse "type 3"... and we do not need to intercept the switch signal so we can immediately eliminate two wires from the lock harness. Leave the purples (will be connected to +12 to make lock pulse positive) and the green and light blue, as indicated in the manual for type III locks.

    IE eliminate Brown and White from the 6 pin connector, by pressing down on them from underneath with a small flatblade screwdriver.

    2: 5 pin harness
    eliminate blue/black horn output wire
    same method as above

    3: 10 pin harness
    eliminate violet positive trigger wire
    eliminate pink two step unlock
    eliminate white dome light output
    same method as above

    Sedans can eliminate any aux outs they will not use: Tourings need all 3.
    Channel 2 grey is trunk pop
    Channel 4 black blue will be glass pop (unlock + trunk)
    Channel 3 white blue will be used for window roll up (because it used LOCK + trunk... makes more sense)


    Step 2b: Looming the harness

    By now you are intimidated by the sheer number of wires... you should be.
    Guess what, you'll have more.
    ON the positive side it will get easier now.

    Take each connector and the wires and stretch them out to their full length.
    Tie a knot in each end and start twisting the wires in each bundle around themselves.
    The OG way is to chuck them in a drill and spin then until they are a tight bundle, if you don;t have a working drill (Like me) You can do it by hand.
    This accomplishes two things: makes them easier to manage (each bundle acts like one big wire) and makes them look nice and more factory.

    OK you now have several manageable bundles of wires...

    Sleeve the Wires for the 10 pin connector for about the first 6 inches with heat shrink, then lay them OVER the top of the unit so they lay alongside the other two large bundles from the 6 pin and 5 pin connector.
    The brain box will be on the end of our harness towards the middle of the car and all the connections will be towards the end.


    At this point before you shrink them together you can heatshrink any individual wire bundles To make them all 'even' if you choose.
    Take a 1" width of heatshrink that will fit over all the wires together and bundle them nicely together, preserving what you have organized.

    Step 2c: wiring the harness
    Now it is time to start making decisions:

    12V power lead
    the 12V power supply in the factory alarm connector is inadequate to power a bunch of relays, though adequate to provide the 12V pulse for the door locks (purple wire with fuse holder).
    You can leave it that purple wire alone and plug it in at the factory alarm connector 12V, or do as i did and connect it to the red power lead for the brain (which will eventually go direct to battery) to save bulk. I did the later, you can do the former no problem, just make sure you have a fuse in F47 (alarm).
    At this point I also soldered in the fuse holders for the aux channel relays to the same 12v lead. I now have 1 single heavier gauge red wire feeding the two extra fuse holders, the 'doorlock' purple wire, and the brain's red 12V power lead. 1 wire= one point of failure.
    This is where I had to switch to my gas powered soldering iron as these are a lot of wires and heavy gauge.
    Pull the blue and green door lock wires out of the bundled wires, as well as the white parking light flash, ignition yellow, the orange starter kill wire, and the aux channel wires you chose to use. (blue white for window close for example).
    RE-loom the rest back together.
    Spin the trunk pop and hatch wires together & heat shrink an inch or so
    Spin the Orange and yellow together & heat shrink an inch or so.
    It is time to split off the white wire for the parking light flash. Fold it back forward towards the brain, and put another 1" ring of heat shrink ontop of the previous 1" ring so it stays pointing that way.
    Why didn't we heat shrink the Door lock wires yet??

    It is time to install the first pair of our diodes.

    Step 2d:Modifying the lock wiring with diodes
    Leave yourself 1.5" inches on one lock wire wire and 2.5 inches on the other from the last heatshrink, then cut. go back 1/2" and strip the wire on each.

    How to solder diodes to raw wire:
    The diodes should point towards the connector...
    For those of you who didn't do the required reading, please go catch up. This means the striped end goes toward the OEM connector (bare wires at this point) not towards the alarm brain. Think current flowing downstream... they are a one way check valve for electricity instead of air, vacuum, or water.
    On the side without a stripe, bend the lead at the 1/2way point 90 degrees. Leaving yourself a couple of mm of bare wire not touching, wrap the remainder tightly on the BENT portion of the leg. using your pliers and friend method (or helping hands soldering jig) hold the diode between the body and the 90 degree bend. this is for heat protection. Solder the bent leg to the wire and blow it cool. Clip any excess leg off, and bend the leg an additional 90degrees, ie into a u shape pointing back at the diode body. Use your pliers to decrease the radius if needed and you should have the wire and resistor in a nice compact inline package ( i'll see if I can shoot a picture when I do my last ones for the parking light--- look below later).
    Complete the other 3 legs the same way, then heat shrink over them to prevent any shorts.

    Now you see why we staggered the cuts, the end result should be slightly staggered and reduce bulk in the harness.

    Go get the brown wire you de pinned earlier from the 6 pin connector
    strip the plain end ~3/8".
    ON the LOCK WIRE (green) we will practice a technique we will need shortly, thru wire joining. If you mess up, you can fix it with a normal wire solder/splice here.

    With your razor knife, cut just the insulation around the wire an inch or so below the last solder joint/heatshrink. about 1/4-3/8" below that do it again. slice between the two, and remove the insulation.
    You should now have a ~1/4" section of bare wire in the middle of an insulated wire.
    make a hole thru the middle of the wire using a pencil, small screwdriver, whatever.
    Don't make it 3 strands on one and 20 on the other, ok? try to make it somewhat even.

    Insert the Stripped end of the brown wire into the hole you just made,with the wire laying AWAY from the brain, and towards the connector.
    Twist the stripped 'brown' wire tightly around the exposed green wire, closing the hole up and solder. slide a 1/2" piece of heatshrink over the green & brown to cover the joint.
    This brown wire will later become the Ch3 window roll up.

    Finishing the lock harness mods:
    You need to combine what you have practiced:
    soldering a diode, and thru wire joining to wire the diode that will supply power to both LOCK and unlock from the lock wire, and prevent the unlock wire from backfeeding to the lock.

    I suggest two inches or so, and the first thing to do is slide a 1" piece of heat shrink up the lock wire.
    At the 2" mark for example, make your circle around the wire with your razor knife, then 1/2" below that another and remove the insulation.
    Bend your diode leg 90 degrees ( stripe pointing to connector, so black side leg!) and stick it thru the wire.
    Leaving yourself a few MM, spin the rest around the leg, solder, trim leg, complete bend.
    DO not heat shrink it yet. Just make sure you have your heatshrink above it, this is your last chance.

    Bend your other leg 90 degrees, and hold it up against the blue unlock wire. a few MM above where the leg sits, make your first cut, and about 3/8" down make your second cut and remove the insulation. Solder the other end of the diode in place as above.
    Slide the heat shrink down from above and cover as much of the diode as possible, then slide a piece from below.
    Finally slide a piece over BOTH wires and heat shrink it...

    Congrats... You have now wired the locks to auto double lock:
    current on the lock wire flows thru both.
    current on the unlock stays on the unlock.
    current from Channel 3 relay via the 'brown' wire will be applied to both (rolling windows and sunroof closed when applied for longer time) without back feeding to the alarm.

    I'll try to make a diagram at some point, or one of y'all with more graphics time, photoshop etc can do so for me.
    Tidy everything up, take it out to the car and check for length, or at least trim up the bundled harness so everything is the same length as the shortest wire... relays are next.
    Some pictures: Still one relay to install (bonus points if you can figure out which one it is )
    I'll cover the details of that later.

    Many updates above:
    Diodes continued:
    Go steal the blue/black wire you depinned earlier.
    We are going to use this to turn our single Hood/trunk wire into two wires.

    At a convenient place, clip the blue wire. strip each end ~1/2.
    Slide your heatshrink on it.
    Strip the end of the blue/black wire.

    Now take Two diodes, and bend the legs 90 degrees as discussed earlier (black side). Twist the legs together. then twist the BRAIN side of the blue wire around it and solder it. clip the leg, bend em flat and heat shrink them.

    Now take the remainder of the blue and the blue/black and solder one to each remaining leg, and heat shrink them. You now have individual trunk and hood leads.

    Step 3: Adding External relays

    ok First the 'starter interrupt relay' <included with alarm> which we will be using for a fuel cutoff instead.
    wire colors are yellow and purple (twist these two together), red, and white.
    The yellow wire from the brain, ignition, will be tapped to the red lead from this relay. use the thru wire technique to connect them.
    The orange lead from the brain, starter interrupt, goes to the white wire, clip them off and twist them together.
    the relay's yellow and purple will be later be spliced into the factory fuel pump wire, which is near the 12 pin alarm connector.

    Aux channel relays

    The relay for channel 3 should be connected to power (fuse holder) on terminal 30 and 85, white/blue is connected to 86, and the new brown wire you added earlier goes to 87 (not 87a).

    For channels 2 and 4 (touring): power on terminal 30 and 85 together from a fuse holder. The color of 86 will be (#4) black/blue or (#2) gray.
    You will add your own wire on each relay's 87 that will go back to the hatch harness relay area to be tapped in and throw the original relay.

    btw guys: I temporarily plugged it in, double locks work great. I need to go find my space heater and extension cord and wire up the hatch pops temporarily just to see how it all works together.
    Tourings:
    Remove the right side cargo trim cover, and pull the relays (very small black ones, end of the row).
    Colors and function:
    white/blue or white/black stripe is signal from switch, brown is signal ground, red/whites are constant power, red/black is hatch pop out, and red/blue is glass pop out.
    Note the patterns, blue stripe for glass & black stripe for hatch.
    you can go on the other side of the relay (since you have a relay already) or you can just trip the relay with the ones you have... your choice.
    Either choose red/____ or white/_____. I'll be tripping relays.

    The brain sits between the battery and tunnel and the harness basically wraps around the battery to the connector.

    Still need to order the connectors and buy another relay, some 'red/black' zip wire to extend the LED to the rearview mirror (using the integrated one in my e46 mirror), and a spool of white wire to extend the parking light wire to the switch this week so I can finish it up.

    OK, I added my last relay to the harness (window rollup relay), and need to finish this up, as school resumes tomorrow.
    the kids are finally in bed and I need to go finish running the wire for the mirror led, and the parking lamp flash that I started at 10 hours ago.

    which means I need to go take pictures of the diode soldering like I promised earlier.

    I'm not going to wait anymore and order the connector, it is getting hardwired tomorrow afternoon, and I'll leave a pig tail on the existing connector in case I want to put it back.

    update: I got the wire for the mirror LED in and ran the wire for the parking light flash up to the front.
    Too dark nad too cold to continue further. It will be in tomorrow after classes though.
    ok it is in.
    it'll roll up the windows and close the sunroof.
    However while the alarm is busy doing the timed 'lock' signal, you can't reopen the car. I left it at 20 seconds for that reason. Easy enough to hit it again if the double sunroof AND all windows were open, rather than being locked out for 30 seconds - 1 minute.
    Last edited by shogun; 08-27-2018 at 09:36 AM. Reason: non working pics deleted

  4. #4
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    Since AE started this with the intention of putting it into this FAQ I will repost this here. Mods can link / copy at will. original post: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...28&postcount=7

    copied below:

    The complete guide to E34 front struts and mounts

    BMW had 3 different strut mounts in E34's. They are all interchangable between cars but struts have to match. I.E. you can take a strut and matching mount from any E34 and install it in any other E34. Rears are all the same. (EXCEPT SELF LEVELING - not covered here) Click on the diagrams below for all part numbers in the diagram
    The best way to tell what you have is:

    Check the cap and top strut nut.
    If 1 1/8 inch (small) you have Version 3
    If 2.5 inch and a 19 mm M12 nut then you have Version 1
    If 2.5 inch and 22 mm M14 nut then you have Version 2



    Version 1:
    525i, 535i, M5 3.6 (88 - 07/90)
    Dustcap - 2.5 inches
    Strut Nut - 19mm (M12 nut)
    PN -31 33 1 134 096
    Bearing ID: 14 mm

    Koni: 8641 1157Sport
    Bilstein HD: F4-P36-3021-H0
    Bilstein Sport: F4-P36-3018-H0
    Bilstein Touring: F4-P36-3024-H0
    KYB: 366005
    Sachs/Boge: 31321134565





    ************************************************** *************************************
    Version 2:
    525i (08/90-09/92)
    535i, M5 3.6 (08/90 - end production)
    525iT, 530i, 540i (all years)
    Dustcap - 2.5 inches
    Strut Nut - 22mm (M14 nut)
    PN -31 33 1 139 437
    Bearing ID: 16 mm
    Note: Similar to Version 1 except larger (M14) top nut and larger diameter strut insertion hole

    Koni: 8641 1224Sport
    Bilstein HD: F4-P36-3022-H0
    Bilstein Sport: F4-P36-3019-H0
    Bilstein Touring: F4-P36-3119-H0
    KYB: 366007
    Sachs/Boge: 31321092284





    ************************************************** **************************************
    Version 3:
    525i (09/92 - end production)
    Dustcap 1 1/8 inches
    Strut Nut: 22mm (M14 nut)
    PN -31 33 1 139 452
    Bearing ID: 14 mm

    Koni: 8641 1176Sport
    Bilstein HD: F4-P36-3023-H0
    Bilstein Sport: F4-P36-3020-H0
    Bilstein Touring: F4-P36-3118-H0
    KYB: 365083
    Sachs/Boge: 31321092283

    Last edited by zubbie; 11-11-2016 at 12:37 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    122
    My Cars
    2007 328iT 6MT

    E34 Touring FAQ

    There are a few E34 items that are specific to the Touring. I will use this post to gather useful information about the Touring subjects that seem to be common issues on the forum.

    Suspension
    There are limited options for touring rear suspension

    Touring rear strut DIY
    http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/...ar%20Strut.pdf

    Lowering touring suspension FAQ
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...ing+suspension

    Roof Rack
    What fits in the factory tracks:

    • BMW Factory Cross Bars part # 82129401648 (pair)
    • Yakima Rail Rider 1 (discontinued, but often available on eBay)
    • Thule Landing Pad #430
    • Oris Mercedes Rack (modified)




    Factory Crossbar Keys:
    The factory crossbar locks are made by Thule. Replacement keys are available at a nominal charge from Thule Customer Service - you just need to give them the code that is stamped on the lock cylinder.
    http://www.thule.com/ 1-800-238-2388

    Touring Roof Rack Removal DIY:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1036601

    Touring Roof Rack Thread:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=873806


    Double Sunroof
    Sunroof Operating Instructions:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...Double+sunroof

    Double Sunroof factory service PDF
    http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...g_sun_roof.pdf

    Touring Headliner Removal and Sunroof Maintenance (German)
    http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/...0headliner.pdf



    Rear Hatch
    Hatch Electrical Harness Repair DIY:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-index.php?page=Harness

    More Hatch Wiring Harness DIY
    http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/...s%20wiring.pdf

    Touring Brake Light Repair DIY:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...age=Back+Light

    Rear Glass Strut Replacement DIY thread:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=873806

    Rear Headrests
    US spec E34 tourings were not equipped with rear seat headrests. They can be easily retrofitted - if you can find them.



    Touring Rear Headrest Install DIY:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...drests+install

    Using Front Headrests for Touring Rear Seats:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...php?p=16330349

    Another Thread about front headrests in touring rears:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1342476


    MORE TO BE ADDED???
    Last edited by tandemracer; 01-14-2010 at 05:30 PM.
    Now: E91 6MT
    Previously: E34iT, E46iT, Lotus Elise

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Great White North
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    Front Lip / Body kit Options

    Mtech (MSport and M540(cdn)):



    M5:


    M-Tech Aero:



    540: (model year 94 only but its just brake ducts that can be added to any stock lip)



    ACS



    Zender


    Hartge


    Racing Dynamics


    Alpina


    Seidl


    Reiger


    Volvo lip


    Upside down stock lip



    Stock:
    Last edited by zubbie; 11-10-2018 at 08:10 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Posts
    1,069
    My Cars
    E34 525i M50B25
    @zubbie
    hi there, are you sure the m-technic bumpers are really exist? because i couldn't find any on BMW parts catalog.. thanks..


  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by acssilhoutte View Post
    @zubbie
    hi there, are you sure the m-technic bumpers are really exist? because i couldn't find any on BMW parts catalog.. thanks..

    Ya I'm absolutely sure as I actually own one

    http://www.schmiedmann.com/5_series/...page1.htm#8973

    part number 82-11-9-401-181


    Aerodynamics package - BMW parts catalog

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hanover MA
    Posts
    13,994
    My Cars
    '11 Golf TDI+Porsche 996
    1: what different brakes will fit my car?
    Factory Brake Interchange Chart
    TCD also recently released an e34 BBK which uses C5 calipers (but requires 17" spare)
    Bruno is working on a kit/brackets to use with off the shelf Wilwood calipers.
    forum member Jan K /5mall5nail5 has built his own kit using radial mount wilwood 6pistons and larger diameter OEM BMW rotors,
    you can buy the mounts from him and source the other parts yourself from your choice of discounters. Check for details at newsweden.com


    Where is the TCD Kit? I cannot find.

    EDIT: TCD Does not offer this kit, please update!
    Last edited by GarrettSR5; 09-27-2010 at 11:48 AM.
    I own mostly junk. Except the Porsche, that's kind of cool.
    All the motorcycles are trash which you can read about at
    http://oneguytwowheels.blogspot.com/

    I'll update it eventually

    Thansk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    From Maryland to New York
    Posts
    14,715
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Here is a great overview explaining EWS
    http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0EWS%20BMW.pdf

    Also here is picture for EWS Bypass.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    wut
    Posts
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    Ruckus.
    HERE IS SOME MORE INFORMATION REGARDING THE BUMPER/LIP POST THAT ZUBBIE MADE REGARDING THE VOLVO FRONT BUMPER LIP:

    The volvo lip can be found on the following models:
    88-90 760
    90-92 740
    91-95 940
    92-94 960
    All sedans, wagons, turbos and non turbos will have the same lip in those model years. All other model years and 240s have a completely different type of airdam.

    STRAIGHT FROM R3V. TIM POSTED THIS INFO IN A THREAD A WHILE AGO.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    too many, see sig
    OBC IV Manual redrawn and updated to be a fully-searchable PDF.

    Redone so that each page fits on a half-sheet of 8.5 x 11 paper; if you set your Acrobat Reader print settings properly, you'll be able to print it out, fold it in half, and toss it in your glove box.

    Circuit diagram is just a very rough placeholder, as I do not have a high-resolution drawing in order to read the numbers/values on the diagram. If someone has a better scan, please PM me and I will update it.

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1549180/OBC_IV_updated.pdf

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hanover MA
    Posts
    13,994
    My Cars
    '11 Golf TDI+Porsche 996
    I own mostly junk. Except the Porsche, that's kind of cool.
    All the motorcycles are trash which you can read about at
    http://oneguytwowheels.blogspot.com/

    I'll update it eventually

    Thansk

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    too many, see sig
    (Some content reposted from dasthunder's thread here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=793741)

    E34 M5 colors:

    Alpine White II (218)


    Alpine White III (300) (No image yet)

    Misano Red (236)


    Brilliant Red (308)


    Bright Red (314)


    Mugello Red (274)


    Calypso Red Metallic (252)


    Malachite Green Metallic (205) (No image yet)

    Lagoon Green Metallic (266)


    Oxford Green Metallic (324)


    Royal Blue Metallic (198) (No image yet)

    Avus Blue Metallic (276)


    Mauritius Blue Metallic (287)


    Macao Blue Metallic (250)


    Salmon Silver Metallic (203)


    Sterling Silver Metallic (244)


    Arctic Silver Metallic (309)


    Granite Silver Metallic (237)


    Sebring Gray Metallic (229)


    Fjord Gray Metallic (310)


    Daytona Violet Metallic (283)


    Diamond Schwartz Metallic (181)


    Cosmos Schwartz Metallic (303)


    Schwartz (668)
    Last edited by richinvan; 10-10-2011 at 06:20 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
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    2,437
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    too many, see sig
    E34 "Individual" Colors:

    Dakar Yellow (267)


    Kashmir Beige Metallic (143)


    Island (also known as Iceland) Green Metallic (273)


    British Racing Green (312)


    Santorin Blue (318)


    Estoril Blue (335)


    Orinoco Green Metallic (406)


    Bornite Metallic (???)


    Magic Violet Metallic (260)


    Madeira Violet (302)


    Arktis Grau (269)



    Other E34 Colors:

    Cirrusblau Metallic (???)


    Orientblau (???)


    Ascotgrn Metallic (???)


    Delphin Gray Metallic (???)


    Lazerblau Metallic (???)


    Bronzitbeige Metallic (139)


    Daytona Violet (???)


    Maldive Blue Metallic (???)
    Last edited by richinvan; 01-25-2012 at 02:47 AM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    too many, see sig
    Other Important Information (thanks to de Witt for this info):

    THE E34 M5 EXTERIOR PAINT LIST:
    Author's Note: "Perlcolor" is similar to the metallic finish, but is German for "Pearl Color."
    This applies to the finish of the paint, which has mica flakes added to create the "pearl" effect.
    Avus Blue or Macau Blue M5s' are the best example of the pearl finish in my opinion.

    All metallics contain a metallic finish component, paint code 98.

    EUROPE:

    The original colors, offered from production start, 1/89, to 8/89:
    - Alpine White II "Alpine Wei II" (218)
    - Black Avus "Schwarz Avus" (086)
    - White liner/primer (101).
    - Diamond Black Metallic "Diamantschwarz Metallic" (181)
    - Macau Blue Metallic "Macaoblau Metallic" (250)
    - Malachite Green Metallic "Malachitgrn Metallic" (205)
    - Misano Red "Misanorot" (236)
    - Royal Blue Metallic "Royalblau Metallic" (198)
    - Salmon Silver Metallic "Lachssilber Metallic" (203)
    - Sebring Gray Metallic "Sebringgrau Metallic" (229)

    Exterior colors from 8/89 to 11/91:
    - Alpine White II "Alpine Wei II" (218)
    - Brilliant Red "Brilliantrot" (308)
    - Calypso Red Pearlcolor "Calypsorot Perlcolor" (252)
    - Diamond Black Metallic "Diamantschwarz Metallic" (181)
    - Jet Black "Glanschwarz" (668)
    - Lagoon Green Metallic "Lagunegrn Metallic" (266)

    From 9/90:
    - Macau Blue Metallic "Macaoblau Metallic" (250)
    - Mauritius Blue Perlcolor "Mauritiusblau Perlcolor" (287)

    From 9/90:
    - Sebring Gray Metallic "Sebringgrau Metallic" (229)
    - Sterling Silver Metallic "Sterlingsilber Metallic" (244)

    Exterior colors from 12/91 to 7/95:
    - Alpine White II "Alpinewei" (218)
    - Alpine White III "Alpinewei" (300)
    - Arctic Silver metallic "Arktissilber Metallic"(309)
    - Avus Blue Perlcolor "Avusblau Perlcolor" (276)
    - Bright Red Metallic "Hellrot Metallic" (314)
    - Brilliant Red "Brilliantrot" (308)
    - Calypso Red Pearlcolor "Calypsorot Perlcolor" (252)
    - Cosmos Black Perlcolor "Cosmosschwarz Perlcolor" (303)
    - Daytona Violet Perlcolor "Daytonaviolett Perlcolor" (283)
    - Diamond-black Metallic "Diamantschwarz Metallic" (181)
    - Fjord Grey Metallic "Fjordgrau Metallic" (310)
    - Granite Silver Metallic "Granitsilber Metallic" (237)
    - Mugello Red "Mugellorot" (274)
    - Jet Black "Glanschwarz" (668)
    - Lagoon Green Metallic "Lagunegrn Metallic" (266)
    - Oxford Green Metallic "Oxford Grn Metallic"(430)
    - Sterling Silver Metallic "Sterlingsilber Metallic" (244)

    NORTH AMERICA

    12/89 to 3/93:
    - Alpine White II "Alpinewei" (218)
    - Arctic Silver Metallic "Arktissilber Metallic" (309)
    - Avus Blue Perlcolor "Avusblau Perlcolor" (276)

    From 9/92 to 3/93:
    - Brilliant Red "Brilliantrot" (308)

    From 12/89 to 8/92:
    - Calypso Red Pearlcolor "Calypsorot Perlcolor" (252)

    From 9/91 to 3/93:
    - Diamond-black Metallic "Diamantschwarz Metallic" (181) (Canadian Spec only)
    - Jet Black "Glanschwarz" (668)
    - Lagoon Green Metallic "Lagunegrn Metallic" (266)

    From 9/92 to 3/93:
    - Mauritius Blue Perlcolor "Mauritiusblau Perlcolor" (287)

    From 9/90:
    - Mugello Red "Mugellorot" (274)

    From 9/92 to 3/93:
    - Sebring Gray Metallic "Sebringgrau Metallic" (229)
    - Sterling Silver Metallic "Sterlingsilber Metallic" (244)

    Color Notes and Details:

    -Alpine White "Alpinewei" (218-300):
    Interestingly enough, there are in total five different shades of Alpine White, but only three made it to the M5, Alpinewei II and III.
    7 M5 Tourings came in Alpine White II, and only 2 M5 Tourings came in Alpine White III.

    - Arctic Silver Metallic "Arktissilber Metallic" (309)

    - Avus Blue was introduced to the M5 in 9/1992:
    Note: The sticker in the engine bay will state "Avusblau-Metallic," but BMW offically recorded this color as "Avusblau Perlcorlor."
    I have a BMW Service Bulletin from 1997 that states "Avusblau Perlcolor" to be the correct name.
    However, Avus blue is regarded as "Avusblue-Metallic" in the BMW community. If you want a PDF of the Service Bulletin mentioned above.

    - Brilliant Red "Brilliantrot" (308)

    - Brokat Red Perlcolor "Brokat Rot Perlcolor" (259)

    - Calypso Red Perlcolor "Calypsorot Perlcolor" (252):
    Even though it is a stock color, BMW used it for the 1995 Special Edition M5. Introduced to the M5 in 9/1992.

    - Cosmos Black Perlcolor "Cosmosschwarz Perlcolor" (303)

    - Daytona Violet Perlcolor "Daytonaviolett Perlcolor" (283):
    The most common color for M5 Tourings, at 206 Tourings.

    - Diamond-black Metallic "Diamantschwarz Metallic" (181):
    Diamond Black-Metallic came in two different shades, Diamantschwarz Metallic I and Diamantschwarz Metallic II.

    - Fjord Grey Metallic "Fjordgrau Metallic" (310):
    14 M5 Tourings made in this color.

    - Granite Silver Metallic "Granitsilber Metallic" (237):

    - Jet Black "Glanschwarz" (668):
    This paint was only available for the E34 M5.

    - Lagoon Green Metallic "Lagunegrn Metallic" (266):
    Introduced to the M5 in 9/1992.

    - Macau Blue Metallic "Macaoblau Metallic" (250)

    - Mauritius Blue Perlcolor "Mauritiusblau Perlcolor" (287):
    One of the original E34 M5 colors. There were only four US-spec E34 M5s produced with Mauritiusblau.
    Note: The sticker in the engine bay will state "Mauritiusblau-Metallik," but BMW offically recorded this color as "Mauritiusblau Perlcorlor."
    I have a BMW Service Bulletin from 1997 that states "Mauritiusblau Perlcolor" to be the correct name.
    If you want the Service Bulletin mentioned above in PDF format.

    - Mugello Red "Mugellorot" (274):
    Introduced to the M5 in 9/1992

    - Oxford Green Metallic "Oxford Grn Metallic"(430)

    - Petrol Mica Perlcolor "Petrol Mica Perlcolor" (305)

    - Polaris Silver/Imola Silver "Polarissilber, Imolasilber" (60):
    Polaris Silver/Imola Silver supposedly came in different shades (559-563-576?), but it is not confirmed as of yet.

    - Rosso Red "Rossorot 95 3567 BASF Fueller ROT:
    BMW individual GE00325, used on the LTD M5s in the UK. This is the same code as Romantikrot (369).

    - Sebring Gray Metallic "Sebringgrau Metallic" (229):
    This paint is exclusive to the E34 M5.

    - Sterling Silver Metallic "Sterlingsilber Metallic" (244)

    - Techno Violet Perlcolor "Technoviolett Perlcolor" (299)

    - Wine Red "Weinrot" (224)


    Sonderlackierung

    These are the paints produced by BMW Individual. If the reference label on the passenger shock tower says "490" then it was painted in a BMW Individual Color.
    M5s manufactured after 10/94 carry a label that says "BMW Individual" on the shock tower and a more specific color description or paint code number.
    92 of the M5 Tourings were ordered with "Sonderlackierung" colors.

    - Amethyst Metallic "Amethyst Metallic" (452)

    - Aqua Metallic "Aqua Metallic" (451)

    - Estoril Blue Metallic "Estorilblau Metallic" (335):
    A very common E36 M3 color, but was first used on the E34 M5. Surprised?

    - Orinoco Green "Orinicogrn" (FQ 95-3450) (406):
    Orinoco Green is a BMW Individual color. It was used by BMW in 1995 for the Special Edition M5.

    - Night Blue Metallic "Nachtblau Metallic" (453)

    - Santorin Blue "Santorinblau" (318):
    BMW Individual special order color. Only known to be used on M5 Tourings. Similar to Audi's Nogaro Blue, as seen on the S4.

    - Black Mica Metallic "Schwarz Mica Metallic" (347)

    - Fir Green "Tannengrn Metallic" (454)
    Last edited by richinvan; 04-07-2011 at 12:19 AM.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vallejo, CA
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    '95 540iA

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    San Rafael, CA, USA
    Posts
    1,267
    My Cars
    92 E34 m54b30
    Made this horn FAQ thread a while back... not a hugely common issue topic but a real PITA to diagnose for those of us still learning their way around car electrical systems:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1630300

    E34 - 1992 M54B30 w/DISA - TRM Chip - Vogtlands - Billie Sports - Beyern Mesh 17's w/Conti DW 245/40/17's - LSD 3.23 - Smilies - 35w 5000k - Projector Fogs - Clear Rears and Corners - Euro Trim

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    too many, see sig
    This post is reserved to document the various interior accent trim choices that were available.

    Bubinga:
    (picture placeholder)

    Burlwood:
    (picture placeholder)

    Maple:
    (picture placeholder)

    Walnut:
    (picture placeholder)

    Bird's Eye Maple (M5 UK Limited Edition and 1991 Japanese 10th Anniversary Edition):
    (picture placeholder)

    Poplar (M5 UK Limited Edition and an Individual option, also possibly a South African option):
    (picture placeholder)

    Carbon Fiber (Canadian M540i models only):
    (picture placeholder)

    "Synthetic" Wood (interesting pieces of trim I obtained from Germany - seems to be plastic - perhaps from a "Value" edition):
    (picture placeholder)
    Last edited by richinvan; 10-10-2011 at 06:10 PM.

  20. #20
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    too many, see sig
    Interior Colors (please PM me if you know of other options - this is not an exhaustive list):

    Cloth and Vinyl options:
    Blue, gray, black

    Leather:
    Tan, Parchment, Black, Blue, Gray, Dove Gray, White?.

    Two-tone dark gray on black, two-tone dark gray dove gray (10th Anniversary Japan models only)

    I have seen one Individual model that had black bison seating with special charcoal cloth inserts with gray and purple accents. This was on a Canadian Individual model 530 - I can't find the VIN at the moment, but I'll update later.

    Leather options were cowhide and bison.

    Alcantara:
    Many options of alcantara were available, including some unique M patterned cloth inserts.

    Numerous BMW Individual choices are known to exist:
    - tobacco
    - purple
    - madiera

    Cars were available with 'normal' leather (leather seating surfaces), 'extended' leather (add leather center console), and 'komplette' leather (add leather dash as well).

    There are photographs of at least one car produced through the BMW Individual program as having a leather headliner, as well as others with alcantara headliners and rear parcel shelfs.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Odenton, MD
    Posts
    4,393
    My Cars
    90 535/4/5 + 93 540/5/6
    I'm sure this link is posted on the forum somewhere, but it has a lot of googling compressed into one site and I've found it pretty useful:

    http://www.e38.org/e34/

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Queens, NY
    Posts
    440
    My Cars
    92-535iM / 87-325is/e39
    I found this site...its a wealth of info about e34s and specifically the 535i.

    Many in-depth DIY how-to's and pics. Lots of BMW pdf spec info as well. Enjoy!

    http://www.exx.se/
    1987 325is -hoarding on to!
    1985 535is-sold
    1999 328ic mtech-sold
    1992 535iM
    2003 525i Sport

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    SD / CA
    Posts
    72
    My Cars
    `93 525i
    http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html (scroll down until the middle of the page ...)

    it is a good lambda calculator for those who have issues with passing the smog test.
    e34 `93 525i DD

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
    Posts
    5,362
    My Cars
    '91 M5
    In Zubbie's strut mount post, can we include car's with EDC as having version 2 upper strut mounts?
    Current Fleet:
    E34 1991 M5 Macaoblau on Complete (ruined)Leather Champagne - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1705166

    Past:
    E34 1989 535i 5-Speed AlpineweissII on Natur - Parted
    E34 1992 525i 5-Speed Islandgrun on Pergament - Parted
    E34 1995 540i 6-Speed ShwarzII on Shwarz - Sold to Sneezy.
    E34 1995 525i 5-Speed Calypso Red on Parchment - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1748143 - Sold locally.
    E39 1998 528i 5-Speed Black on Black - Sold locally.
    E34​ 1993 M5 Alpinweiss on Black - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...lpinweissII-M5 - Parted


  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    2,700
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 530i Touring

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