I wasn't sure about it, but after doing a little research, all E39s (including those produced in 1995) used the M62.
acet posted his DIY links in the E34 DIY Quicklinks thread but hasn't done the ICV DIY yet (He's done the procedure but hasn't completed the DIY.).
Keep checking over there for it or PM acet.
Awesome DIY - I struggled a little bit to find the ICV on my 03' 530 so thought I'd throw a pic up for those who have the same issue I do. It was rather buried under all the air intake crap and other widgets (most of which I have NO clue what they are) - but after taking careful inventory was able to remove all the necessary items - remove the ICV and clean it. Mine was pretty gummed up, was still open and still moveable, but a noticeable difference (better acceleration - no more hesitation from a stop) after cleaning! Thanks again!
Last edited by hip2bfit; 09-28-2009 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Wanted to change my notification settings
could this beign cloged create a small cloud of smoke on cold cold starts?
E39 5er, bilstines/H&R springs, M-parallels staggered, smoked tails,'02 bumpers, painted mouldings.
Ironically, the part pictured is very similar to my '95 Carrera 4's "ISV" (idle stabilizer valve). I regularly clean my Porsche's ISV with copious amounts of brake cleaner until the valve itself is able to open and close freely.
The Porsche ISV is the metal cylinder at the top center of the engine bay.
just read all of this my wife is in miami and was told it would have to be replaced, wow to clean it and get some more life out of the part would be great
From 01 on, the ICV became electronic with a very simple removal process. Two T-40's hold it in place. Simply slide it out and clean accordingly.
Dont forget to plug the cable back into the ICV when you put it back in. Still had rough cold start and started throwing codes, not to mention the huge hissing sound.
(This is why I cannot be a professional mechanic. NO PATIENCE)
BTW, my ICV was disgusting. Not a lot of gunk on the valve (unless you moved it, then you could see where it was) but WAY too much in the throttle body, and WAY too much in both ports on the ICV.
Last edited by Jarhed; 08-07-2010 at 07:09 PM.
I have to clean my ICV. Do you have any photos from where you removed the plastic clip, to where the actual ICV is located? and photos of the steps to remove the connecting cables, hoses etc ???
Thanks
What year is your 528i??
I was following your DIY and nothing in that photo is what i have in my car..Mines is a 99' 528i and i had to go to www.realoem.com to find out wheres the ICV's locations is at.
It took an half hour to remove,inspected and reinstalled it.
Pulled it out and it was perfectly clean..
Just did this wasnt completely blocked but there was some dirt there.What a fiddle getting it back in.car was idleing under 500rpm and cutting out,still up and down on start up,maybe crank shaft sensor needs replacing.thank for post
Thanks for this. Last week my 528 refused to idle and just stalled unless I pressed the gas pedal. Cleaned my ICV today and it now idles nice & steady.
Greatly appreciate for this DIY. Car initially had a dirty ICV and cleaned out with some WD-40 and Q-tips. Ides smooth and around 2500-3500 rpms engine response is smooth. Thanks again.
Remark- Anyone whom does this DIY might as well replace the rubber tube connected to the ICV. Mine was showing age and brittle and will have to go at this again once the part arrives. Yes I'm weird about that stuff but I like to have peace in mind when completing a job.
Last edited by AHay5; 08-19-2012 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hey i have a 98 e39 528i and when i first start the car it runs like crap unless i keep on the throttle.i already replaced my ccv. then after i drive it for a while it runs pretty good. its throwing a misfire code but while im driving it you would never even know.. but i unplugged my maf sensor and everything runs beautiful. just slightly less low-end power. im just curios about the syptoms that you were having that made clean the idle control
just finished this. noticed a tiny difference (not even sure if there is) in acceleration. mine wasn't too bad. before i cleaned it. Link to my video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2oXH...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by DanE39; 09-27-2012 at 08:27 PM.
Where did you find the part for 160? Eveywhere i look its 334
seriously all of you guys cleaning your ICVs and not a single picture to update this thread. shame on all you.
i have to clean my ICV as well. my 528i has been idling real bad, it sound like someone is playing the banjo under the hood.
Damn Imageshack. Pics are gone.
I successfully cleaned the ICV in the 525. Car ran a *little* better at startup. Then I pulled a spark plug. Gap waaaaay to large. Checked the paperwork and saw that they were pretty old. Re-gapped them and car idles fine.
Time to order new Iridiums.
Can anyone make some new pictures? i want to follow this diy but without the pictures i am afraid to fail :P
Hi,
Newbie here and i am joining the ranks hopefully to be a contributor and DIy'er.
Found this wonderful thread and am looking to clean my ICV on my 2007 530i but the pictures that the original poster put up are not rendering on my laptop nor desktop.
Can someone please point me to this instructional guide or some other valuable write-up that can teach me how to clean my ICV?
Thanks and looking forward to contributing my experiences.
Regards,
Don
Adding this to the library for those searching:
Hey guys,
I have been reading through this thread and it has a lot of good info in it and some good pics. As a BMW Master tech myself I found it very easy to identify what I needed to know to refresh my memory of this job (20+ years off the tools!) but I also noticed one piece of information missing that could confuse the unwary DIY'ers.
When you take off the ICV, obviously you can look inside it to see if it is dirty. A clean valve is always better than a dirty one, I agree HOWEVER, the big omission has been a description of the testing of the valve prior to and after cleaning!
A couple of things to keep in mind:
* A DIRTY looking ICV is not necessarily a faulty one or the cause of your rough or slow idle.
And, arguably the most most important:
* A CLEAN looking ICV is not necessarily a correctly operating ICV.
Sounds confusing? Let me clarify - an idle control valve in most BMW cars will generally make a rattling sound when you swivel it quickly in your hand. I mean, hold the valve body like you would a torch, and twist your wrist quickly back and forth like you are revving a motorcycle throttle. The valve should sort of rattle in the housing as it travels one way and the other in the housing. When there is a problem with the valve, this rattling sound will be very muted or non-existent because the valve assembly is sticking. When it sticks in a near closed position it will cause the engine to idle slow and perhaps stall.
Cleaning the valve with brake cleaner is recommended, as long as you continue to clean until the valve moves freely and makes the rattling sound again. A clean valve to look at does not mean it is working until you TEST THE VALVE MOVEMENT.
Often, the build up of carbon is actually out of sight behind the valve near where the bearing is so it is not visible to the eye which is why it is recommended to keep flushing the valve until it moves freely again.
There is also no need to lubricate the valve after cleaning as it can simply cause small carbon or dust matter to stick to the lube and begin building up again faster then normal. Clean and dry is the way to go.
For the record, my ICV looked similar to the one at the left below (taken from another page with references) and ended up looking like the clean version. The rattling was VERY slow to non-existent initially and now it is as loose as a goose and running perfectly again.
Note some slight drag marks on the valve assembly that MAY have been causing the valve to stick slightly? These are the signs that the carbon build up has caused the issue.
E39-M52-ICV.jpg
I hope this helps the inexperienced to decipher the info in the thread and to help guarantee a great outcome after all of the disassembly work!
Thanks again for a great site!
Last edited by Rec0n; 08-05-2017 at 01:27 AM.
Bookmarks