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Thread: Z3 DIY - How to replace your entire interior

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    Denver, CO
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    3,444
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    1999 Z3M, 1999 2.8 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by chilipeppermani View Post
    I was reading the Step 1 area where seat removal and battery disconnecting was noted.
    Then it says to wait 10 minutes. Why is this and what happens if one does it sooner?
    Static, residual charge in a capacitor, etc. could set of an airbag or seat belt tensioner. Treat these items like loaded guns, the unloading procedure waiting the 10 minutes or so. I usually just disconnect the battery before I get my tools together for the project at hand. Cheap insurance.

    For the seats, you can undo the 4 bolts rights away, since it's nice to have the motor to move the seats to reach all the bolts.
    Last edited by s8ilver; 07-17-2018 at 12:27 PM.
    Nathan in Denver

    1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
    1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Louisville, KY
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    4,503
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    1997 BMW Z3 1.9L 5MT
    Quote Originally Posted by chilipeppermani View Post
    ... seat removal and battery disconnecting was noted. Then it says to wait 10 minutes. Why is this and what happens if one does it sooner?
    There is no need to disconnect the battery when removing a seat. I never do.
    That advice is given because people use the key after removing the passenger seat. Removing the passenger seat means disconnecting the air bag module under it. If the key is turned with the seat out, the SRS will set a code.
    As to why people use the key with the passenger seat out, maybe they need to play the radio, or move the car.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Baltimore MD
    Posts
    15
    My Cars
    2001 BMZ Z3
    Thanks Vintage. I know you and I discussed my Z3 in Bimmerfest, but I am proceeding with my repairs anyway. I had already taken my passenger seat out before I read this thread and asked questions. Now my driver's side is out and I am working my way thru drying out my carpets and floor pans with the shop vac. I just wish BMW made it easier to disassemble the trim parts and console etc to get the carpets in and out easier. So much to learn as far as the tricks go, to getting the interior disassembled without breaking the fragile plastic bits.

    Already have my radiator and water pump out, so now waiting on the new pump and pulley to arrive. Once I get cooling system put back together, it will be time for cylinder leak tests, cooling system pressure test, and if they all check out, I will drain the fuel and proceed with prepping to restart the car and check to see how it runs.

    Sure looks like I am in great need of the Bentley or other service manuals to research the not so obvious when it comes to the tricks and procedures of the various systems, inside and out of this Z3.

    Thank you again for your info. Vintage

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Louisville, KY
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    4,503
    My Cars
    1997 BMW Z3 1.9L 5MT
    Quote Originally Posted by chilipeppermani View Post
    ... waiting on the new pump and pulley to arrive. Once I get cooling system put back together, it will be time for cylinder leak tests, cooling system pressure test, and if they all check out, I will drain the fuel and proceed with prepping to restart the car and check to see how it runs...
    As I recall, the pump seized, broke the belt, and overheated the engine. You are not removing the head, so you waiting for the leak test and running the engine to see if the head gasket is OK?
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-18-2018 at 09:58 PM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Baltimore MD
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    15
    My Cars
    2001 BMZ Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    As I recall, the pump seized, broke the belt, and overheated the engine. You are not removing the head, so you waiting for the leak test and running the engine to see if the head gasket is OK?
    Vintage, yes,close on most points. turns out the pump bearing failed causing shaft to get wobbly, the belt jumped loose and also the plastic pulley broke.
    Also, yes to doing cylinder leak down, compression and cooling system pressure tests to determine if everything seems tight and within spec head gasket wise.

    At the time of pump failure, I was able to pull the car over pretty quickly once I saw the temp gauge head toward the red. So far, with no visible sign of oil in coolant and no visible sign of coolant in the oil, I can always take my drained oil and have it analyzed for glycol contamination. I also have the chemical block tester that actually requires a running engine to check for color change when taken at the overflow tank. Needless to say, I don't want to pull the head if I do not need to.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Baltimore MD
    Posts
    15
    My Cars
    2001 BMZ Z3
    In keeping with the focus of this thread as I still operate without a service manual for our Z3, I have found this well written post regarding the Roll Hoops removal.
    Very good pictures during the process.


    https://zroadster.org/articles/remov...roll-hoops.49/

    As usual, there are still shortcomings in dismantling some of the plastic trim pieces and maybe I will find out the secret to simpler removal with my own efforts and share them here for all to see.

    I will try to use my snippet tool and even my own camera to post pics if I can. No promises, but I will do my best to add insight.

    The main areas and reasons I am here are my goal to remove the wet carpet to dry things out, and to actually see how things are built so I know how to get at stuff when and if I have parts/electrical etc failures.

    Now, my main " how is it done without breaking fragile plastic stuff?" areas of concern are, How to access and remove the center flip up door between the 2 roll hoops.



    Mine seems to stick while trying to open all the way, like the hinges ( plastic) are bound up.


    How to get the door pillar/rear plastic trim around the speakers out to access the carpet



    How to get the roll hoops off.



    and how to get the foot rest, gas pedal, radio/center console out without the radio removal tools. I know about the 2 little tab doors needing opened to access the release points for the radio with the allen wrench. Anyway, that is all I can think of for now, until I likely get most everything out and find out I need to remove the whole dash to get at where the carpet mounts up behind the pedals and glove box area of the firewall.
    Last edited by chilipeppermani; 07-19-2018 at 03:55 PM.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Baltimore MD
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    15
    My Cars
    2001 BMZ Z3
    Well, I managed to make headway on removing the footrest/kick speaker cover on driver's side. Also, have the center console 95% dismantled. I am down to the shifter knob and OBD2 and clock disconnecting yet to go.

    These things are quite annoying to deal with for sure.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Baltimore MD
    Posts
    15
    My Cars
    2001 BMZ Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by chilipeppermani View Post
    Vintage, yes,close on most points. turns out the pump bearing failed causing shaft to get wobbly, the belt jumped loose and also the plastic pulley broke.
    Also, yes to doing cylinder leak down, compression and cooling system pressure tests to determine if everything seems tight and within spec head gasket wise.

    At the time of pump failure, I was able to pull the car over pretty quickly once I saw the temp gauge head toward the red. So far, with no visible sign of oil in coolant and no visible sign of coolant in the oil, I can always take my drained oil and have it analyzed for glycol contamination. I also have the chemical block tester that actually requires a running engine to check for color change when taken at the overflow tank. Needless to say, I don't want to pull the head if I do not need to.

    Update-------------I worked a good bit yesterday to extract the rear section of carpet (required center console removal) to dry carpet fully and get a look at the wiring and components hidden underneath.
    Glad I did so, because I found a mouse nest of other insulation from off my 5.0 Mustang's sound deadening padding up in the vertical body support area where the power top switch is located. Upon removal of the nest, I found a number of wires to be chewed bare by the mouse. Believe it or not, I think these exact wires actually likely being allocated to whatever component would have gone where the blank cover plate is next to the power top switch is. Now for reference, my top motor wasn't working, so further diagnosis is in order before I do the final reinstall of the carpet and center console, seats, etc

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    New York, NY
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    '07 BMW 335i
    Are the pictures gone from this original post?

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Several years ago one of the most used photo hosting sites for forums either changed their rules and/or went out of business causing many photos across many forums to go away. My guess is the OPs still has their photos, but they are no longer showing up in the forums.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

    2022 Z4 M40i, Misano Blue Metallic, Prem Pkg, Driver Assistance Pkg

    2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.

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