I noticed its common for e36 shift knobs to come off while shifting when they get older. Was curious if there was a common knob most you guys replace it with ??
P.S. I'm saving money for my first DE anybody wanna help ??
2011 Toyota Highlander (wife)
2002 X5 4.6is - 225,000 (Dead)
2001 Toyota 4runner
1995 S/C M3 - 99,000 miles
1995 525i - 244,000 miles (sold)
1999 528iT Touring - 175,000 (sold)
1992 318is - 325,000 miles (Sold)
1986 325e - 180,000 (sold)
A metal knob. I have the UUC. It's great. On the BMW knobs, the plastic tabs do tend to break soon.
stjobs
Yah I was curious on this since there is so much shifting and it tends to be "aggressive" shifting. Looking for a knob that wont wear out soon.Originally posted by stjobs
A metal knob. I have the UUC. It's great. On the BMW knobs, the plastic tabs do tend to break soon.
stjobs
2011 Toyota Highlander (wife)
2002 X5 4.6is - 225,000 (Dead)
2001 Toyota 4runner
1995 S/C M3 - 99,000 miles
1995 525i - 244,000 miles (sold)
1999 528iT Touring - 175,000 (sold)
1992 318is - 325,000 miles (Sold)
1986 325e - 180,000 (sold)
This same exact thing happened to me less than 2 months after I got my car while I was at the dragstrip. You could go with the recommendation of the above post and go with the aftermarket knob, but if you want to retain that stock look, BMW has an identical piece except that the shift knob and boot are combined into one unit, whereas the old style has the knob separate from the boot which eventually leads to the knob flying off while shifting aggressively.
The BMW dealer replaced the whole assembly under warranty with the one-piece unit, which looks exactly like the previous setup, which totally eliminates the chances of a repeat occurence.
'99 ///M3 13.766 @ 100.12
Gruppe M style CF intake, Eisenmann Race exhaust, Kosei K1's, Motorsport side molding badges, Rieger gt cup front spoiler, OEM ///M5 trunk lip spoiler, 6000k HID+Predator Chromium angel eyes w/parking light delete, Bilstein Sport struts/shocks, Eibach springs, Rogue Engineering RSM's
The UUC isn't going anywhere, it's much heavier than stock, made of solid aluminum, fits tightly and attaches with a stainless steel set screw. It makes shifting feel smoother and more solid, and also slightly shorter.
stjobs
Pretty much all of the aftermarket knobs attach with a set screw. Just find one that is comfortable for you.
a metal knob in texas !!! the summers here are 100 deg +, unless u want the logo on the shift knob burnt into ur palm, u might wanna consider leather or carbon fibre knobsOriginally posted by stjobs
A metal knob. I have the UUC. It's great. On the BMW knobs, the plastic tabs do tend to break soon.
stjobs
HTH,
just put a stock knob on it and quit forcing the shift lever past the point of engagement
installing a bolt-on knob does nothing for correcting the root cause of the problem, some drivers don't know how to differentiate between shifting fast and being hamfisted
My favorite knob is the Momo Short Anatomico (lower right #34 in the chart). It shortens the throw a bit and like most other Momo knobs it's secured by three set screws and i've never had one come off yet. Simple and effective :-)
Last edited by randywalters; 04-21-2003 at 12:05 PM.
Randy Walters
'89 325is (Competition car, now sold)
'96 328is (Weekend Fun car w/M3 suspension, just sold)
'03 530i Sport (Spare car)
'05 X3 3.0 (Little Woman's DD)
'21 Mazda 3 Premium Sedan AWD (Daily Driver)
BMW CCA & SCCA Driving Instructor
BMW CCA L.A. & S.D. Chapters
Multiple SCCA Regional Championships
While a stock knob can/does wear out, it is likely caused by poor shifting technique. In reality, the force you put on the shifter should in no way be in a direction that would force the knob off. Regardless of what knob you use, work on your technique.
UUC has a decent article about shifting on their site:
http://www.shortshifter.com/techniques2.htm
If you are forcing the knob off, you probably aren't shifting correctly, and you are definitely being harder on your transmission than you need to be. Chill out and try to be smooth.
I dont shift incorrectly or so I think. I've drove my car for 2 years and hav'nt broke any knobs I guess everyone was assuming I can't shift properly. But hey I suck at spelling so I'll give u that one. I just know a few guys around the dallas area that have broke theres before. Someone else driving my car broke my shifter so i replaced it with a stock shifter. Seems just as good and the metal ones feel weird to me.Originally posted by BMWRacerITS
While a stock knob can/does wear out, it is likely caused by poor shifting technique. In reality, the force you put on the shifter should in no way be in a direction that would force the knob off. Regardless of what knob you use, work on your technique.
UUC has a decent article about shifting on their site:
http://www.shortshifter.com/techniques2.htm
If you are forcing the knob off, you probably aren't shifting correctly, and you are definitely being harder on your transmission than you need to be. Chill out and try to be smooth.
2011 Toyota Highlander (wife)
2002 X5 4.6is - 225,000 (Dead)
2001 Toyota 4runner
1995 S/C M3 - 99,000 miles
1995 525i - 244,000 miles (sold)
1999 528iT Touring - 175,000 (sold)
1992 318is - 325,000 miles (Sold)
1986 325e - 180,000 (sold)
What TeamZ4 and BMWRacerITS said. Besides, if you're grabbing the knob and ripping it around with that much force, it's a lot easier to misshift. Chill out, try to be smooth, and guide the shifter from gear to gear, instead of grabbing it in a deathgrip and yanking it around.
And, a tip for those of you using aftermarket knobs - a little blue loctite on the setscrew works wonders. My UUC knob tended to loosen up and rotate a little. Finally loctited the setscrew and tightened it up - never had the problem again...
Jim
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