How-To: Replace Your Secondary Air Pump (1996-up E36 6-cylinder cars)

**Tkeeze** · 10-19-2007, 04:19 PM

Excellent post...just replaced mine...ez peezy.

Thanks

T

**Poorshaguy** · 10-21-2007, 10:10 AM

Cudos to Mrs. Burdell for the great write-up!

Ordered new pump from Circle BMW #11721744490 - $276.00
and Valve # 11727540466 (updated valve) - $80.00.

They overtly appear to have some of the best prices.

Thanks again!

**razor97** · 10-21-2007, 11:56 AM

Has anyone ever figured out what the toque specs are for the various items?

In particular I'm really interested in the non-return valve nuts since they appear to be made of copper or brass which means they probably have a low torque rating. Anyone know?

**jedi4good** · 02-13-2008, 01:10 PM

First of all, great Post/Write up from the Author. GP's steps to success were dead on concerning my 1997 328i. I also found the additional comments there after educational and insightful.

My issue was the Secondary air pump itself. I replaced the Return Air Valve first and associated hoses only to find the pump was on its last leg after all.
Still, I have to feel good since I did all the work myself with the help of this forum. At least that money I saved on installation can go right back into funding a new AC compressor.

Thanks GP!

**mperfct** · 03-02-2008, 03:47 PM

great write-up and thread. Thanks to all!

**antik** · 03-06-2008, 07:37 AM

Awesome write up!

My M is throwing codes for the air pump and I'm curious about where I can find diagnostics for it. I saw there was a PDF but that link is dead - where else can I look?

Or would it be easier to simply replace the pump and valve and be done with it?

**gutguy1** · 03-14-2008, 02:38 PM

are these instructions applicable to a 330ci (E46)?

**RexB** · 05-22-2008, 04:51 PM

Several people have asked how to find the relay, but no one has actually posted the location.

Can someone share with us where the darned thing is located ?

**G. P. Burdell** · 05-23-2008, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by gutguy1

are these instructions applicable to a 330ci (E46)?

The basic procedure would probably still apply. I have noticed that the air pumps on late-model E46s have a filter and an air flow sensor on the suction side. Troubleshooting would have to include an examination of the filter and the sensor.

Check RealOEM for the part numbers that apply to your car.

**uncle** · 05-23-2008, 11:58 AM

From a troubleshooting standpoint, if the valve holds vacumn, it is probaby good. Use a spare hose, put it on the nipple and suck. If it is bad, you will have no resitance. To test the solenoid, when the engine is cold, remove the vacumn hose and start the engine. Put your finger on the end of the hose, if you feel vacumn, that should indicate the solenoid is working. If the pump and electronics to it are OK, you will hear it run.

**antik** · 05-25-2008, 11:29 AM

This is another thanks for a good write up! This is a really easy repair. Anyone with a little patience, a flat head screw driver, a 10mm socket, and a couple of extension bars (I used a 3" and 6" 1/4" drive extension) can get this done in an hour!

I replaced the check valve and the pump on my 98 M3 today, jumped in the car and drove off which would normally cause a CEL, without trouble. The explanation provided by the OP seems sensible enough: through the valve, the hose between the valve and pump and into the pump I found brown debris that almost looked like rust. There was also a little bit of water in the snorkel hose too.

I have 2 spare, unbroken mounts that I removed from my old pump (the used pump I bought came with the plastic mount so it had untouched mounts intact already) stashed in my toolbox. Should anyone be in need, I can send one or both for the cost of shipping!

**JuiceSqueeze** · 08-06-2008, 07:40 PM

Having this dead for a while wouldn't cause engine issues would it?

Mine has been dead for quite a while, and I'd been driving no problem for a while. Then one day my car just decided to cough sputter and die below 1.5k rpms.

Related at all? I don't really want to go dump it in the shop for $100 just for them to tell me what's wrong just yet.

**SethuM** · 08-06-2008, 08:06 PM

wat if you remove it
wat would happen to your car?
cuz i dont have one

**Sammyzuko** · 12-10-2008, 11:54 AM

Subscribing so I can reference this later.

**RonaldReagan** · 12-10-2008, 05:24 PM

I just used this thread to diagnose and replace my SAP and check valve, excellent write up.

**tboonstra** · 12-26-2008, 10:07 PM

Kudos to Mrs. Burdell. Nice write-up and a very productive and long-lived thread.
My pump recently started making the gritty, whining, strangled goose noise. So I've been checking around for pumps and valves. Are you sitting down? The local BMW dealership wants $385 for the pump and $110 for the valve - without the gasket - another $7. Total for parts only $543!
Needless to say I'm looking for alternatives. I found the valve at Carquest for $85 but am still looking for the pump.

Anyone out there have a good used pump? Thx.

**css28** · 12-26-2008, 10:27 PM

I wrote about buying a used one for $75 on 9/9/07. 15 months and 22k miles later it's doing fine. I found it through a car-part.com search at a junkyard in Holland, MI. You'll probably want to get the valve new. Looks like $90 at bavauto.com

**m3jones** · 12-28-2008, 10:22 PM

Thanks G.P. Replaced my pump and valve last Wednesday. Your write-up was extremely helpful.

Originally Posted by tboonstra

Kudos to Mrs. Burdell. Nice write-up and a very productive and long-lived thread.
My pump recently started making the gritty, whining, strangled goose noise. So I've been checking around for pumps and valves. Are you sitting down? The local BMW dealership wants $385 for the pump and $110 for the valve - without the gasket - another $7. Total for parts only $543!
Needless to say I'm looking for alternatives. I found the valve at Carquest for $85 but am still looking for the pump.

Anyone out there have a good used pump? Thx.

Bavarian Auto Recycling is selling used pumps with a 6 month warranty on eBay right now for $100. That's what I used.

**antik** · 01-04-2009, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by tboonstra

Kudos to Mrs. Burdell. Nice write-up and a very productive and long-lived thread.
My pump recently started making the gritty, whining, strangled goose noise. So I've been checking around for pumps and valves. Are you sitting down? The local BMW dealership wants $385 for the pump and $110 for the valve - without the gasket - another $7. Total for parts only $543!
Needless to say I'm looking for alternatives. I found the valve at Carquest for $85 but am still looking for the pump.

Anyone out there have a good used pump? Thx.

Best deal I had going was picking up a new OEM valve from RMEuropean and a used but known working pump from a forum member undergoing an ODB1 swap.

It's been completely trouble free since May!

**somerset04** · 04-11-2009, 04:09 PM

Thanks for the info and I am going to replace the pump. By the way, when I took them apart, I found the electrical power socket of the pump and the connector was wet with a pool of water with yellowish brown color. Then, if I clean the power connector and connect to the new pump socket,will it be OK? Or some kind of short circuit took place? If so, where do I have to look? Also, where's the air pump relay?

Somerset

**cskinner001** · 05-30-2009, 04:55 AM

Hi,

I have just fitted the part in under half an hour, and have no previous experience working on cars.

I called my BMW dealer and they wanted £400 parts and labour! After seeing this thread, I sourced an online breaker yard and paid £40 (incl p and p) for a 2nd hand part. As mentioned above, followed the instructions and fitted the part in under 30 mins (and I have no previous car maint experience). Working space with the spanner is tight, have to use a size 10 spanner attachment for my electric screwdriver (vertical attachment) as I could not get leverage with a regular spanner. I have removed the noise, the part is working (makes a quiet noise now), for £40 and saved a lot of hassle (the dealer wanted the car for a day).

Excellent instructions, thanks.

**Ckyo5** · 11-11-2009, 05:22 PM

Any one have pics of the valve?

Has anyone tried cleaning the valve or something instead/before buying a new one?

My pump is getting noisy and i'd like to get as much life as possible out of it!

**rockie118** · 12-13-2009, 06:14 PM

I recently received the same problem codes, P0491 and P0492. I checked the secondary air pump and it is in working condition; it turns on when the engine is turned on and then, it will turn off within two minutes.

It wouldn't be the 50 amp fuse as there is power going to the secondary air pump. I had a mechanic check all of the hoses and manually turn on the secondary air pump without turning on the engine. Everything appeared to be in proper working order.

The CEL was turned off two days ago and then the CEL turned back on today. I'll like to figure out if anyone could solve the problem before going to the BMW dealership.

Thanks in advance!

**orangehatter** · 01-09-2010, 08:35 PM

Does the CEL usually clear on its own after the pump and valve have been replaced?

My E36 threw codes for both (pump is inoperable now) and I'm looking at replacing both parts here within the week.

I need to make sure my car passes California Smog so I can extend my pass on base.

**crashandburn** · 01-11-2010, 12:12 AM

Is the relay #3? I can't find any fuse or relay for secondary air pump

Thread: How-To: Replace Your Secondary Air Pump (1996-up E36 6-cylinder cars)

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Just fitted in under 30mins, excellent instructions

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