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Thread: Do I have a major problem? kinda long(suspension related)

  1. #1
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    Do I have a major problem? kinda long(suspension related)

    Here is the story I'm getting from my brother who currently has my car: He was driving when he noticed the smell of burnt rubber coming from my car. When he got home he looked at the car and realized something was terribly wrong. The left front wheel was sticking out of the fender.( i guess it would be about about 1000 degrees of positive camber). He jacked up the car to inspect it, but he really has no idea whats going on. He has a hard time tying his shoes. He tells me that a bolt is missing????
    We finially establish what bolt it is. Its the bolt that runs perpendicular to the two bolts that attach the strut to the spindle. Does this make sense???? It connects the brake assembly to the strut( I think). This is hard to discribe without seeing it.

    Here is the problem. He says he can't move the brake assembly to line up with the holes that the nut and bolt go through. If I remember correctly once that bolt is removed the brakes just hang there. right? If thats the case, do you think something major might be bent? Any help would be great. Thanks

    Steve

  2. #2
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    I just did a suspension swap a few weeks ago and IIRC, the two lower spindle/strut bolts should hold the top bolt in alignment with its hole. Basically, these three bolts don't move in relation to one another.

    My guess is that when the top bolt popped out, the weight of the car bent the strut near the two lower bolts.

    Just my $.02

    Rich

  3. #3
    Def's Avatar
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    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...threadid=90474


    Like what happened in this thread? Did you have aftermarket struts up front?

    Best case scenario: You'll only need a new front strut. Now would be a good time to upgrade if you haven't already(stock strut/shocks suck!).

    Let us know.

  4. #4
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    Thats what I was affraid had happened. FUC$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I wonder how much one coilover costs?

  5. #5
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    One front Koni = ~$175 give or take $10 depending on where you get it.

    If you have stock struts and shocks I'd really recommend replacing all four. At the very least replace the fronts and wait until you can afford the rears. Always replace shocks in pairs so you have the same kind on one end of the car.

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    I have KW coilovers. So say that the strut housing is bent.......why wont the brake assembly still move??

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by steve m3
    I have KW coilovers. So say that the strut housing is bent.......why wont the brake assembly still move??
    The lower bolts mount through a steel plate. If the wheel was out that far then they were most likely severely bent inwards. Therefore they were the only thing keeping the wheel assembly attached to the car.


    I'd take some pics and then send them to KW(never heard of them before?). I'm willing to bet they'll warranty the strut assembly.

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    Originally posted by Def
    I'd take some pics and then send them to KW(never heard of them before?). I'm willing to bet they'll warranty the strut assembly.
    Even if its my fault?

  9. #9
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    I'm not sure what you mean by expecting the brake assembly to move.

    But, if you undo the bottom two bolts, the brake disk will pivot on the control arm. Actually, if you do this without securing the brake disk, it'll basically fall into your lap.

  10. #10
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    Originally posted by Def
    [B]The lower bolts mount through a steel plate. If the wheel was out that far then they were most likely severely bent inwards. Therefore they were the only thing keeping the wheel assembly attached to the car.]
    That makes perfect sense. Thanks alot man. I really appreciate it.

  11. #11
    Def's Avatar
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    Originally posted by steve m3
    Even if its my fault?
    If they were being used on the street at the time of failure then this is DEFINITELY a case of a manufacturing defect. They were designed for street driving, then catastrophically failed under normal operating conditions. Street tires shouldn't be able to generate near enough cornering loads to shear that mount if it was properly made.

    If they've been used in a race environment for any length of time though, I'd say you should just eat the cost of replacement(breaking parts is racing...).

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