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My e30 started up, I let it idle for 20 seconds or so, then I started going in reverse, but it died almost immediately. After that, I couldn't get it to start back up. The starter turns etc, but the engine never actually starts running.
Any suggestions? thanks
^Gone, but not forgotten.
Check for spark.Originally Posted by Xinlitik
"Screwed" by ESS Tuning
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Sorry, could you clarify please?
^Gone, but not forgotten.
take a spark plug out ground the plug to the valve cover put the plug back on and crank the engine over, you should see a blue spark come from the plug.
"Screwed" by ESS Tuning
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Thanks.
Okay, so I tested the spark. I definitely saw sparks, although they were pretty small. I dont know how big they're supposed to be, so I'll leave it at that.
I also checked to see if my timing belt was broken, but it was fine.
How can I check if the fuel is working right? I smelled gas fumes when my friend cranked the engine to test for sparks.
^Gone, but not forgotten.
You smell fuel because the injectors are pumping the fuel into the combustion chamber and the fuel isn't being ignited so you are getting fuel. Well you can always check for the voltage going to the coil, it should be battery voltage (about 12v-13v). If the coil isn't getting enough voltage it won't be able to produce a good spark.
"Screwed" by ESS Tuning
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Okay, guess I'll test that once I get my hands on a voltage meter.
Question: Since it's been cranked a lot w/o starting, does the fuel that keeps getting added to the chamber just sit there? Would that cause the engine not to start since theres way too much fuel for not enough air?
^Gone, but not forgotten.
The gas is getting pushed out of the combustion chamber when the exhaust valve opens (that's why you smell it, you couldn't possible smell it if it was inside the engine) so NO that wouldn't keep the car from not starting, sounds to me like you have some sort of ignition problem...This link might help: http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/20...newsletter.pdf The article is about halfway down the page titled "my car won't start". You're going to need a volt-meter so go to radio shack and pick one of the automatically adjustable ones for $40.00 or so (that way you won't have to set the voltage scale so it'll read the correct voltage, just set it on the "DC" setting). It'll come in handy. The other items they list that you might need you may or may not need so don't worry about that until you do need them.
"Screwed" by ESS Tuning
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Update:
I was planning on doing diagnostics this weekend when I had the time, but I gave the car a shot today and it started up like nothing. It ran rough and slightly noisy with a high idle for a bit, but after that it settled down like nothing happened.
Similar incidents have happened--except that usually in these incidents, it will have trouble starting but after 1-2 tries will work fine.
I'm confused....what would be causing it to start fine 90% of the time, but suddenly crap out like this? It wasn't particularly cold even--it was midday. Has anyone experienced anything similar?
Member
Flakey fuel pump or Motronic relay will cause hit and miss starting issues. I see it ALL THE TIME. Replace them both, they're cheap insurance.
Member
Thanks, I'll make sure to test/replace those. Question--could a very dirty fuel filter do the same? (I dont know the last time it was replaced on my car, doing it asap)
Member
Very true. If you want to save a little downtime or money, take apart the relay. Its casing should release by four little clips on the side. Once you do that, spray the entire guts with CRC electrical cleaner. It will most likely make the relay good as new, and you won't have to shell out the twenty plus dollars for a new relay. A relay has mechanical parts and this is usually what fails. The rest of the assembly doesn't break typically unless its exposed to moisture or corrodes.
Molon Labe.
Member
same thing happend to me put a new fuel pump in it, problem solved
-this was on an e30 conv not my e36
Alpinawiebe adds HP!
Did the car die on a slope? like your driveway slope by anychance??
If ya then put a full tank of gas and try it again...if it happens again ONLY THEN...CHANGE THE PUMP.
Member
My car does the same thing, if I try to drive the car to soon before letting it warm up. If/When it dies, I have to wait quite awhile (~1Hr, sometimes less) before it will start again. So far it has always started. I'm guessing ICV or Fuel pump but, I really don't know. My car also runs rough with slight surging (possible vacuum leak?) until it warms up.
Swap Whore
Is the motronic relay something different than the 5 pin relay next to the FP and one other relays?
460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i
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Ok so I pulled out the 3 relays (i think main relay, fuel relay, oxygen sensor relay) from the little box near the coolant tank.
First thing I noticed--my fuel pump relay is not 7 pronged, but 4 pronged. Pelican parts says there are in fact 4 pronged ones for my year, but still said there are 7 prong ones..so I guess each car varies.
But anyway--how would I open these suckers to clean them out? The white one (i think o2 sensor) has little clips that I could see opening, but the orange 4 prong ones (main and fuel pump) look pretty damn sealed.
Here's a pic:http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...1361378238-M14
thanks
...106 miles to Chicago..
You dont want to open the orange ones, the white one is what you want, the one closest to the front of the car. That is the fuel pump relay. Should be a bit recessed from the other two, atleast mine is.
Member
Ahhhh thanks looks like the picture I saw was wrong
Member
i had a simular problem on my e30 bm where it wud start up fine 90% of the time and it wud jerk ocasionally. my problem was a wire chafing against the fan belt. i was told its a common prob aspessially on the 320 models. i soldered them up and presto the jerking and occasional starting problem was solved.
Member
Fuel injected cars can still get flooded.
Member
my 90' is does this occasionally... it gets flooded... look at the fuse box under the hood when this happens pull the plug for the fuel injectors i think its number 11 in my car and then start it.... it will start and then die and then you put the fuse back in and itll start right up.... hopefully that will help you....
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The one closest to the front of the car (white one) is the main relay. The middle one (orange) is usually the fuel pump. The third (rear) one is the O2 sensor warmer. This can change if someone re-arranged them back on the mount. The BavAuto pdf shows it wrong on the flyer if that is an E30, otherwise it is a good walkthrough.
Search here for jumping it and listen for fuel pump to run. Then try and start it after a no start. If it starts, it was the relay. Always good to carry a spare.
You take it apart by bending tabs at base and lifting cover off of it.
Every car owner (in fact every adult) should have a multimeter. Harbor Freight has some for about $5.
Member
Ah thank you. Well, I cleaned out the main relay before reading your post. It was the only one with tabs...the orange ones appear to be pretty smoothly sealed. Am I missing something?
Well, either way I'm going to jump it when I get the time.
Member
I was having this same problem. Happens to me when I stall the car soon after a cold start. It won't refire for several hours afterwards. So far I have yet to determine if I fixed anything when it refires.
Today I tried taking the fuel pump relay(Middle relay on my 88 325is) out of the loop and just jumping the terminals (87 and 30). This spat fuel out the fuel line I had disconnected for testing purposes. I then tried testing the relay for operation and it was clicking...
So now I have two possible problems as I see it. An intermittently failing fuel pump, or an intermittently failing fuel pump relay.
Just thought I would put my two cents in since I've been dealing with this same problem.
Did you resolve yours?
Mike
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