Same happened to mine. RMEuropean has OE VDO actuators for $81 shipped. There was an advertiser here (they have pics of front bumpers on the top banner) selling actuators for $45. Not sure of the brand.
Hi all,
I just need some clarification about where the tabs fit into the actuator.
So the two silver ones go into the green slots, what about the two gold ones?
Which of the gold tabs goes in the blue slot and where does the other one go?
For some reason I've made the swap but my door now locks when opened / opens when locked.
What have I done wrong?
Would like to upload images but admin won't allow urls...
Bump
Last edited by beamster; 02-14-2013 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Bump - help needed...
You need 15 posts before sharing images. Host the pics elsewhere and post an altered link, such as:
Xttp://www.fixedgeartshirts.com/post/bmw_projects_12.2008/images/IMG_0613.JPG
We'll figure out what you did.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Great thanks very much, i'd like some clarification as to where the pins need to go...
For some reason - whenever I pull up to unlock the door it locks it and vice versa. I think it must have something to do with the pin placement?
I have added the following links...
- Firstly I have numbered the pins from the images before, could you clarify what holes they need to go in?
http://picturepush.com/public/12197270
http://picturepush.com/public/12197276
- I have also taken some photos of what I have done... maybe you can see why my door unlocks when you lock it and vice versa?
http://picturepush.com/public/12197284
http://picturepush.com/public/12197285
http://picturepush.com/public/12197280
http://picturepush.com/public/12197279
Central locking has stopped functioning since I swapped the actuator too... any thoughts?
Last edited by beamster; 02-15-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Moderator unnecessarily censoring content
You put it in qhen lock was in wrong position maybe. Try unplugging actuator and making sure all locks are either open or closed, then plug in again and try
95 BMW M3 Alpine-
<GO...JIC Cross Coilovers- UUC RCAB, AKG FCAB, Rogue Engineering TM bushings- AA Gen3 Exhaust- Dinan F&R Strut Bars- Dinan F&R Sway Bars- X-Brace- Mishimoto Rad- BBS RK 17x8"- TRM Chip- Dinan BBTB- DIY CAI- JP Performance Headers- 21.5 injectors- JB Racing Flywheel- Bimmerworld TB boot- 540i MAF><SHOW...OE euro clear exterior lights- Depo w/ HID- Hurricane Alcantara interior- Stereo (Kenwood,Sony,MB Quart,Rockford Fosgate,JL Audio)- Black kidneys- Euro 3 Spoke- ZHP Knob- AutoDim Mirror>
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for this thread. Very helpful.
Beamster, your central pin must be on the wrong side of the sliding lock trigger.
I just finished the rear door lock actuator in my e36 318i and have the following to add.
The 3 torx bolts holding the latch to the door were very tight. I saw a post of someone grabbing them with vice grips, I chose to use my Makita 18v torque wrench and blasted them out in record time. So satisfying.
Also the little plastic screw that holds the plastic "L" shaped bracket that is the pivot for the lock button we pull up and down disintegrated when I tried to loosen it with a phillips head screwdriver. Just the head of this little screw fell apart. It just fills the space down the center of the pivot, not sure how else to explain it, and I simply drilled it out and then used a screw extractor to get it out. The cool thing is that I just took the extracted screw when I was reassembling the door and jammed it in its place and it is working fine.
You guys rock. Without this guide I would have totally disassembled my passenger door. With it, 40 minutes start to finish. :-)
My addition to the process:
There's a small square hole in the door panel in which, after you remove the old actuator, you can clearly see the front fixed pin of the bracket that the actuator slides on. I made a mark with a red grease pencil on the side of the new actuator in the same place, front to back, where it fits over the front fixed pin. This enabled me, by looking directly into the square hole, to exactly locate the actuator, front to back, in the correct place on the bracket without actually being able to see the bracket pin or the receiving hole in the bottom of the actuator.
It really helped.
EDIT: The driver's side door actuator died so I got do do it all over again and take pictures .
Slide1.JPG
Slide2.JPG
Slide3.JPG
Slide4.JPG
Last edited by pwillikers; 12-21-2014 at 07:35 PM.
Paul, '97 328i, Calypso Red w/Beige, Sport Seats, M Sports Suspension
Thanks for all the info. I think this took me all of 20 min yesterday. I didnt remove anything except for the door panel and the the actuator itself with the connector still on. Took me a little time to reinstall without the connector installed...as someone else mentioned, couldnt get leverage. Once I did though, it snapped into place, reconnected the wiring loom and reinstalled panels...easy!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Best thread ever! Thank you for the additional clarification on getting the actuator back on. I got it, still don't know how the silver tab fits in there but somehow it does. Screwed with it for an hour trying to get it on, then I found the additional pictures and had it on within 30 seconds.
Current-
03 E39 M5 Carbon Black
01 Lexus RX300
Past BMWs-
98.5 M3 (sold)
97 328i
94 325i (RIP)
I have replaced the actuator on the passenger's door and the door is latched closed and will not open. Trying to figure out what I did wrong. Do the two metal sliding tabs from the latch go inside the same opening on the actuator bottom? (# 2 and 3 of the pictures posted by beamster). Thanks guys for any help you may supply!
BMW E36 Door Lock Actuator Replacement
I have been tinkering with my passenger door actuator for a few days, as my passenger door did not unlock when I used the fob and decided to install a new actuator (OEM $107)
I removed the old actuator, disassembled it and removed one of the side panels to see how it works. Here are a few pictures and tips that may help you if you decide to take on this job.
This is a picture of the top of the lock mechanism inside the passenger door with the actuator removed. You can notice the large metal tongue that goes in the large groove along the center line on the bottom side of the actuator. You also see to the right of the picture the single lock lever (round head) towards the center and the double lock lever (rectangular head) more to the right, that go into the actuator allowing it to lock/unlock the door lock mechanism.
(see door lock mechanism a. photo hereunder)
Unlocked position
The following picture shows the actuator in the unlocked position. Notice the slide on the bottom of the actuator (where the single lock lever inserts) at the far right of the run (away from the side of the actuator with the electrical connections). Also, note you can see through the two large side openings (you can see the micro switch for the double lock position through the top one). The double lock lever inserts into one of these openings (more about it later on).
(see photo door lock actuator unlocked position a. hereunder)
Single locked position
If you press on your door knob the single lock will be activated. In this instance the slide inside the actuator slides about half way inside the actuator, looking like this:
(see photo door lock actuator single locked position a. hereunder)
Notice the hollow slide under the actuator where the single lock lever inserts is now at the other end of the run (against the side of the actuator with the electrical plug). The door may be opened from the inside but the outside handle is disengaged.
Double lock position
Locking the car using the key or the fob, you will activate the double lock. The slide inside the actuator goes to the end of the run with its plastic levers blocking the double lock lever that inserts into one of the large side openings on the bottom of the actuator. The following picture shows the side openings where the double lock lever inserts. The pink arrow shows the opening used on the passenger side actuator. The green arrow shows the opening used on the driver side actuator.
(see photo door lock actuator double lock position a. hereunder)
(see photo door lock actuator double lock lever openings hereunder)
Unlocking from double lock
You double unlock the doors ONLY using your key or fob. The slide inside the actuator will move clearing the side openings, freeing the double lock lever and allowing the single lock lever to move backwards, unlocking the door lock mechanism.
You can further explore the actuator mechanism at this website address:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/lock.pdf
Hope it helps!
Last edited by jerrycastillo; 07-02-2014 at 02:58 PM.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I just used it to replace the lock actuator in my front right door. Now it locks and unlocks again!
Thank you very much for this excellent detailed post. Although I followed it as closely as I could, I struggled to lift the old actuator on my 1999 M3 (e36). I loosened the three bolts of the door lock mechanism and eventually had to set it free to be able to remove that old actuator. As you said it is challenge to put back the new one as you need to align the three (or 4 I though) metal tabs - (2 movable and 2 anchoring ones). When I bolted the door lock back, I closed the door and while the actuator responded well by lifting the door locking pin up and down, the door was shut permanently locked with no way to open it from the inside or the outside. Wiggling and pulling on the control rods did not release the door latch. On close look (see photo), I noticed that the lever of the outdoor handle was no longer threaded through it wide rectangular/circular opening. So the door handle on the outside is not as freely movable as it used to be. Any tip on how to fix this? I need to have the door open to remove the two bolts holding the locking mechanism. I have tried for hours to open the door to no avail! Please any help will be greatly appreciated!
IMG_1076.jpg
By far this is the simplest and most intuitive method to replace actuators. Mine is a '98 328i sedan. I replaced both front door actuators using this method with no issues.
Disabled battery negative and then waited 20+ minutes. The side airbags are mounted over the access hole to each actuator. I removed both airbags (carefully, of course) and then proceeded to get at the actuators.
It helped to use an inspection mirror and flashlight to see what I was doing. Actuators detached easily. Reinstalling isn't so difficult if you take your time, use the mirror and think. It is possible to insert a thin screwdriver in same opening as manual locking mechanism if you need help repositioning the actuators.
Perhaps 45-60 minutes per door. I used Dorman actuators through Amazon. About $40-45 each. Let's see how these work. No big deal to replace if one should fail.
Gotta love those bimmers! Everything goes together so nicely.
Are E36 coupes the same as sedans in terms of the DIY?
My driver side door will not lock or unlock with the remote. It only unlocks and locks with the key. I can see the manual stem move slightly when I use the remote. Is it the actuator or could something just have gotten loose?
Yes, for the most part they are the same as they use the same handles, ect. It's just a couple of the rods that are different in length is all.
Can you hear the lock actuator? Can you move it with the key in the lock?
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I can lock/unlock with the key. With the remote I see the button move a bit but doesn't actually go up or down. I hear something but it's not as loud as the passenger door which works fine
I think the lock actuator is getting weak, unlock with the key and see if the remote can lock the car. Normally it will pull the plunger back down, but have problems with pushing it back up.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
you're probably right, the last few times, the door will unlock but not lock with the remote. strange. wouldn't it be easier to just remove the locking mechanism to replace the actuator?
Yes, it will be easier. I think the driver door actuator is from 92-98 so look for those years if you plan on going used.
However the idea is to ensure the item to be replaced is what is actually failing. I would double check the wiring, as the door wiring tends to get weak over time.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
good idea, maybe the electrical contacts are just dirty. i'll have to check it out. intermittent electrical related issues are the worse to troubleshoot.
Great DIY. Make sure you read carefully. I didn't and it took me 2 hours to reinstall the actuator when it should have taken about 15 minutes. The devil is in the details. fixed pin, sliding pin. Oh man, what a dumbass. Live and learn. BTW, my locks still won't open and close each time I engage the switch next to the gearshift. Can't get an alarm installed until that is rectified. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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