Yesterday I replaced my failing driver's side lock actuator. I'm not much of a mechanical whiz, but I figured it out myself and I'd like to share how I did it. I just read the existing write-up in the DIY links and the way I did it is a lot easier I think, plus a few details might have been left out:
1 - remove door panel: slip off inside latch trim, two torx screws behind inside handle, and the super secret torx screw behind the plastic "airbag" badge, then pull panel straight out to disengage plastic fasteners. There are wires to the speakers so don't pull too hard.
2 - Peel back vapor barrier around lock area of door. The gooey tar stuff gets all over you and everything if you're not careful.
3 - There is a hole in the inner sheet metal which provides access to remove the entire lock mechanism - completely expose this hole so you can get in there with your hands. (You don't need to remove the lock or disengage any of the control rods.) You should just barely be able to see the wire-end of the wiring harness which connects to the actuator - you'll recognize the pattern of the 6 wires which are just like the 6 pins on your new actuator. The actuator connects to the lock at an angle.
4 - To remove the old actuator, first visually memorize where the old actuator is connected to the lock and how it is oriented so you can put the new one on later. Leave the wiring harness connected, but clip open the wire-tie holding the wiring to the door. Then, just push the old actuator straight up and off the lock. (By straight up I don't mean vertically, I mean exactly perpendicular to the length of the actuator.)
5 - Work the old actuator out of the door, then remove the wiring harness by slipping the locking sleeve down and then pulling harness off. Attach new actuator to harness and lock with sleeve.
6 - Reinstalling the new actuator is a little difficult, but not too bad once you study what has to be done. If you look at just the right angle (a small angled mirror may help, or else just crouch down and peer upwards) you can see the metal surface where the actuator goes. There are 3 metal tabs that need to fit into the bottom (white part) of the actuator. There is a sort of a hook shaped movable tab (which controls the lock) that goes into the slot in the movable plastic piece on the bottom of the actuator, and there are 2 different sized fixed rectangular tabs that fit into the 2 square slots in front of and behind the movable piece on the bottom of the actuator. Study the arrangement of these slots on the new actuator so you'll understand how to orient it to the lock. (Note that there are numerous other slots and holes in the bottom of the actuator that nothing fits into, the only ones that matter are the movable one and the 2 small ones in front and in back of it.)
7 - So to finish up, the first thing you need to make sure of is that the actuator, which is now connected electrically (but not yet mechanically) to the rest of the locking system, is in sync with the lock. Use your central locking button to put all locks into the unlocked position if they aren't already, and then manually make sure the lock you're working on is in the unlocked position too by pulling up on the vertical manual control if need be. Also make sure the movable piece on the bottom of the new actuator is in the correct unlocked position. You can slide it with your finger if not. (I don't remember which way is which but you'll be able to tell by manually locking and unlocking the lock and seeing which way the metal tab moves.)
8 - Then, put the new actuator inside the door and get it in the correct general area above the tabs on the lock, and then peer up at it so you can clearly see the larger fixed tab which is the one closest to you. Get it to line up with the larger or the 2 small square slots on the actuator and position it loosely inside the slot. Then, get your hand inside the door behind the lock, palm facing you, and curl your fingers toward you and you'll be able to push down on the top of the actuator with your fingers with enough leverage to push it firmly onto all 3 tabs. Test it out with the central lock button.
9 - Stick the vapor barrier back on, reinstall the door panel ,and you're done.
Last edited by XOC; 04-13-2003 at 02:26 PM.
Lee
Bump for great info!
I just followed this instruction to fix my driver side lock actuator.
It broke at 30K miles on my car, about 1 month after the 4-year standard warranty expired! LOL!
-Luke
1994 6-speed Supra BPU+FMIC+aquamist
1991 Galant VR-4 Turbo-AWD daily driver
2002 Audi S4 Avant
Cool. That was my first write-up, I'm glad it was helpful.
Lee
Great write-up.
I'm just left with one question: what adhesive do you use to replace that vapor barrier? Mine was messed up so I bought a new one, but I want to make sure I'm using the right adhesive.
Thanks
Hmm I'm not sure - I just pressed mine back down and it re-stuck on.
Lee
I'm impressed that you guys have got this right. I'm a seasoned worker on cars with some 40 years experience, but I must admit I haven't cracked getting the new actuator clipped back in yet! Without either seeing what I'm doing, or any photos or illustrations as a guide, I am battling!!
I managed to get the old one off with the lock mechanism still in place, but to get the new one into the correct position and then snap it in place with one hand has so far eluded me. Any illustrations or photos would be welcome.
Well, it seems you have an E30 and my instructions were for an E36, so I don't know how similar or different the parts are. In my case, the trick to getting it back on was to look at the surface where the actuator had to fit and see the 3 metal tabs sticking up, and then looking at the actuator and seeing the holes that those tabs mate with. Then, once you gently position the actuator so it's lined up with tabs in holes, I was able to stick my hand in the door behind the actuator, curl my fingers over it, and push it down onto the tabs which clicked it into place. Sorry I don't have pics, all this is now inside the door.
Lee
Reviving this one from the dead...
Tried the unhook the latch method for almost 3 hours Saturday and finally gave up as it got dark.
Came across this post Sunday morning and had the job done in 45 mins.
This should be the new standard procedure, a huge time saver.
Just wanted to give Kudos.
Thanks!
TESTOriginally Posted by XOC
WOW thanks for the great post XOC, From what I have found online people all over the Net are searching for such an article to help them. This is a LOT of misinformation out there and sadly Bently publishing is one of the big companies spreading it to poorOriginally Posted by XOC
"driveway mechanics". I am glad I did not purchase the e36 bently manual for my car as of yet to go along with with the two others I have(they really should give discounts to past owners of the books). I was told they make it seams like its a 5 Min. or less job once the door panels are off(besides replacing them Etc.) they say "remove old one, snap new actuator in place and test locks". YEA RIGHT.....If that was the case all these threads and worn out, upset scraped "knuckle"(arms Etc.) people out there would not exist(GRIN). You should submit your article to Bently and have them publish the TRUE way to replace the actuators. To be honest there is not "easy" way but your way at least shows you have a clue and some logic and are trying to share it with others. "take it off and put new one on" does not show a lot of thought. I could tell someone the same about an engine replacement(LOL.
To be fare bently publishing does have a lot of good information in it but some times they really drop the ball hard and run.
Thank you again for the great article(I wonder if the Roudel magazine ever printed any thing like it, if not they sure should).
-Dana
Haha well thanks. But I would definitely recommend the Bentley manual. They DO leave some things out (another big omission is not mentioning the large bolt in the roof of the glove box), but what most people do is start off with the Bentley, and when something seems wrong, go online and "fill in the blanks." Many things in the Bentley are perfect though. It's the only manual I have. I don't do the Chilton or whatever else is out there.
Lee
Thanks for the help... to be honest I didnt really utilize your instructions I just kind of dove into it and somehow finished in under a half hour (including re-epoxying the door panel back together. It works out great and reading your instructions now you did a nice job at explaining it. It's really not as difficult of a job as people make it seem.
Only a few mods so far... Painted taillights, clutch stop, SSK and clear corners on the way... many many more to come!
Pics:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=lock+actuator
Pain in the ass job, I just did it, removed bolts securing hte door latch, moved it out slightly to see where that confounded thing fits.
I didnt take that out at all. I took the door panel off and slid my hand behind the old actuator slid it up and pulled it out... then reversed the process... It took a little working to get it out but the door latch step is totally unnecesary IMO.Originally Posted by choffa
Only a few mods so far... Painted taillights, clutch stop, SSK and clear corners on the way... many many more to come!
I know this is bumping a post back up, but Thanks so much for that great tutorial! I have had both passenger side Actuators go (4dr e36) I have yet to get my replacements
If anyone knows any good places online to buy parts from that do devilery to UK or are based in the UK then can you please drop me a PM, I rather not go to the scrappy and rip a door apart on another e36 that will probably end being a dead actuator soon.
If thats the only option then can you let me know I need to get me some replacements!
Thanks in advance.
I just completed this. What a PAIN! But TOTALLY worth it. It's so nice to push the lock button and actually have all the doors lock/unlock!
I spent about an hour reading and researching. And about 90 minutes doing this. Follow my added instructions and you can do this in 30 minutes or less!
Do exactly what the original post says to do. These directions are spot on. There are other DIYs here on this topic advising to remove the entire locking mechanism, remove the lock from some sort of hook or hanger... NO! You'll spend 4 hours doing it that way. Do what the Original poster says.
What screwed me up,was trying to get the metal tabs to go in the WRONG holes on the bottom of the actuator. I spent literally 40 profanity-laced minutes aiming for the wrong holes. Thats-what-she-said. When I finally figured out what hole I should have been aiming for I got the new actuator mounted on the first try.
The trick to this method -Vs- ripping the thing out of the door, is you're doing it almost completely blind, by feel, so you have to KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING AT! So here are some pictures!
The first 4 pictures someone else posted, but the thread was mislabeled "window actuator" so no one will ever find them. So I'm re-posting them here.
The last picture is my addition. The tabs on the door lock mechanism do NOT go in the RED circles - as I thought. And don't laugh when you're doing it by feel not SIGHT, it's not at all obvious. The one silver tab you can see looks big enough to go in the red circles. It looks WAY TOO BIG for the GREEN circles. But that's where it goes. The one silver tab you are going to be able to see, lines up with the top green circle. That sentence should save you 40 minutes of frustration. The blue circle is the actual moving part of the actuator that slides back and forth locking and unlocking the door. Don't stress that too much. Just line up that top green circle with the one silver tab you can see and you'll be golden.
Last edited by mattolsen; 11-29-2011 at 03:42 PM. Reason: fix the pictures
sorry, i know this is an old ass thread BUT THIS SAVED ME! the last picture with the correct placement of the holes. Man i spent like an hour trying to fit it into the big holes haha. now my door locks are working again! yess. Thanks.
good post!! works a treat. thanx for your hard work...
i need help putting the actuator back. its tough trying to snap it in using 1 hand. on top of that, the actuator cycles between lock and unlock when trying snap it in.
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Hello, I recently purchased a 1998 328i with 100K miles, all records. It's in very good shape, but unfortunately the drive's side actuator was broken when I bought it. I luckily stumbled unto this site, and specifically this thread, as I had ordered a replacement actuator and was looking for directions on how to install it myself.
I pulled the old one out with no problems, but am having major difficulties installing the new one. For the life of me, I cannot align the three metal pieces to the actuator orifices.
Do you still have the last picture you initially posted? The site no longer shows that picture and I would love to see it (the one you noted with green and red circles, as your comment states).
Many thanks for your post.
MrSaito
The directions given in this thread are dead on correct; but I found that it was a lot easier to mount the actuator back without it being connected to the wiring harness.
I struggled trying to install it whilst the actuator was connected the wiring harness; there is just not enough room in there to maneuver your hand around, and also the harness impedes your view of the bottom of the actuator so that it becomes more difficult to line up the female parts of the actuator to the male parts with which they mate.
If you are blessed/cursed with a larger pair meats, or even a downright pair meat hooks for hands, so large that you were not allowed to hold baby animals as a child, then installing the actuator without the connecting wiring harness may be easier for you too. I had no problem connecting the wiring harness after I had installed the actuator. Good luck!
When I pulled the retaining clip off the cannon plug to the actuator it broke. Does anyone know where these can be purchased?
2-963229-1
1387190
How is this thread not a sticky? Used it today and besides the crappy e36 door panels everything went smooth. Great DIY.
So my driver's side door randomly stops locking/unlocking sometimes(started about a week ago). When it happens it won't budge with a key or the unlock button but will open eventually if I persistently try to open with the inside handle. Is this a possible issue with the door lock actuator?
Also anyone have any experience with non-oem actuators?(a few on ecstuning as well as ebay)
I have a few other nagging issues to fix so I don't want to drop another 100 if it's avoidable. BTW thanks for the great write-up XOC.
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