I think I have a similar problem, starting today my 87 325is would just crank and crank, and not turn over. my guess was the fuel pump. but reading through the other threads on the subject, i guess it could also be the ECU. My question though is if my ECU # is 0261 200 380, can I use a different one like a 153? Also, does the buzzing fuel pump (the one beside the driver side rear wheel) buzz when the ignition is in the on position? Any info appreciated guys! Man, and I just got the car back on the road from a strut housing replacement. Damn! I love these BMW's
i'm no expert but that can help ya
when you turn to the position "ON" the fuel pump start for about 1 sec and stop.
if the fuel pump is buzzing more than before...it means it will fail SOON...i would change it.
do you get a spark??? i would check that
I don't know the exact operation of the fuel pump on the <=87 but usually when the key is first switched to run, the fuel pump will run for a few seconds to build up pressure. Then it will shut off. After the car starts or is cranked, the pump will start again.
Some of the ECUs are interchangeable. I know for a fact that a 153 and 154 will interchange. These two might also be replaceable by a 173.
Check all your fuses first. Make sure the main relay is being energised and is closing. If that one fails the car will not run. A way to check to see if the DME is working is to check for spark. The ingnition will not fire if the DME is either broken or not powered up. I believe the CE light is also directly controlled by the DME.
== Stable mates ==
-1996 M3 Lux, bright red (hellrot), Modena interior. Aus Freude Am Fahren!
-1988 325, Alpenweiss. The commuter.
BMW HOWTOs
thanks UD. FYI, I tried to get a error code from the check engine light, but it won't even blink it comes on very faintly, then dies out. could it be the relay? if so where is it located. any info appreciated guys.
Get someone to bang on your fuel tank from underneath while trying to start it. If it starts up then it's your fuel pump. I had the similar problem where it would just crank but wouldnt start up. As goofy as this procedure may sound my mechanic did it and found that I had a bad pump. It's worth a try.
is your car stick or automatic. if is stick and you have the crank
sensor on the trans bell housing the throw out bearing breaks and knocks of the top dead center pin.
do you have obc (board computor) or just clock. if you have obc then the alarm box under the dash( l/s) with 2 green connectors
may be bad& there no signal going to the dme.you can jump the two connectors green and white or ck with test light with key on and see if you have power passing through the box.
the DME's have numbers like CA5E this means the a stands for automatic and C85E stick. good luck
The main relay and fuel pump and the purge relays are located on the L/s under the hood. You will find them under a black plastic cover . The white relay is main power to the dme with key on,the orange relay next to it is fuel pump and last is the purge relay. PIN 87 is power out on the fuel pump relay the main relay has 2 pins 87's power out pins.
Just an update guys, I swapped out the main and the fuel pump relays. and that baby just fired up! I'm back on the road again.. Thanks again for all your input guys.
Last edited by martin23; 04-14-2003 at 03:55 PM.
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== Stable mates ==
-1996 M3 Lux, bright red (hellrot), Modena interior. Aus Freude Am Fahren!
-1988 325, Alpenweiss. The commuter.
BMW HOWTOs
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