Trying to figure out why my car lists OBDII status as "Not Ready" due to Evaporative System Monitoring not completed. There is no SES, no active or stored codes, and no driveability issues whatsoever. According to what I've read, the car will pass NYS inspection with one check incomplete, so I'm not worried about that. Basically I just want to understand the cause.
The procedure to complete this test is three minutes of idling on a cold engine - while I haven't specifically done this (I'm going to do it tomorrow just to be sure, but...) I'm certain that at some point in the last four months I've idled the car cold for three minutes. (Of course if that solves the problem, I'm going to seem quite the idiot, but I digress.)
Research has suggested that this is likely due to something in the valves or plumbing that make up the evap system. Does anyone have specific knowledge of the inner workings of how OBDII completes this check so that I can sort out exactly what's going on?
Thanks very much.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
I think you are confusing an incomplete monitor with a fault code. It has not indicated a problem, it just has not done enough testing.likely due to something in the valves or plumbing
I think if it idles for 3 minutes and the fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 full, it will probably complete. Otherwise, don't worry.
I may be off in my assessment, but I found via a search one example of a similar problem that required the replacement of certain valves (the post was unclear as to exactly which valves) in order to correct. Similarly, in that case there was no fault code; it was merely a case of uncompleted testing. However, there were two incomplete tests, causing an inspection failure.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Update: I cold-started the car and let it idle for five minutes; this should be more than enough to perform the evap system test according to the documents I found. The result? Still "Not Ready" for testing. Something is not allowing the test to be completed. Anyone who has any insight on this, please feel free to chime in.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
I believe that if one test in the Mode 6 function of OBD II is not complete it will not allow to move to the next. Are there any other tests that are incomplete?
Make sure your ENTIRE drive cycle in completed, because say you don't have the second to last one ready, its potentially possible the very last one will not be ready either.
-Luke
EFFEKTIV Motorsport #189 GTS2 - Ground Control / Motorsport Hardware / Hawk Brakes
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You have to drive 40 miles if I'm remebering correctly, before the drive cycle is completed.
Here's what I'm basing my assumptions on:
As found here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=602807
According to this, the evap check is conducted during the cold idle period. Perhaps, as suggested, the entire cycle needs to be completed. I'll try that as soon as time and conditions permit. It's worth noting that the person who posted their problem in the above-referenced thread had to replace the crankcase vent valves in order to get their tests to complete.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
That's a good little reference sheet for drive cycle info. It may not be the exactly the same for all cars, but you can only preform certain tests in specific speed/load/temp. conditions so that's probably accurate. I wish someone cleared up all that crankcase BS because a positive crankcase ventilation valve in an emissions control device, and is mechanical with no electrical interface with any monitoring systems, or the ecu at all. Im probably missing something something.
What baffles me is how all these guys with blown OBDII vehicles are passing inspection? Unless they are not flashing the ecu and changing fuel maps or anythng.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulators and low boost?
Quick update to an old thread. I completed the drive cycle prescribed in the docs to the letter to no avail: system still shows "Not Ready."
I'll be digging into this more in the spring. Stay tuned.
JacksonMoto: I think that sheet is BMW-specific. I found info on some other makes while searching, and they all seem to be different in the details. It's not definitive, but it was the best info I could find on the subject. How heavily modified vehicles pass, I don't know. There's got to be a source of solid info on OBDII out there somewhere, but I haven't found it yet.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
I hope someone can reply to this old thread, I've been having the exact same issue with my evap system not ready. '99 740iL, no engine lights, no codes, engine purring like a kitten, lots of power across the powerband. I have completed the drive cycle a couple times already, but to no avail, fuel tank kept at half tank. I already failed emissions, but it had 3 systems not ready, now I only have the evap system not ready. Please help
Old post but hopefully my experience will be useful. My 2001 e38 failed smog for OBDII not ready. No code fault from scanner and only EVAP is INC. I did recommended BMW cycle drives but evap still no-go After browsing through forums, youtube videos, etc. I followed one suggestion saying drive for 25miles @ 65mph (on cruise control), with gas tank between 1/4-3/4 filled, and then park and leave engine on. With scanner plugged in (to monitor evap status) I followed the first two parts (25 miles @ 1/2 tank). While driving at city streets looking for parking spot at stop and go traffic, the evap cycle completed. It worked for me! I'll post the link where this instruction was posted from to give credit to the originator, if I find it again. Good to go for smog test :-).
To set evap you have to have between 1/4 to 3/4 fuel in the tank to start with. Not a full tank or empty
On my E36 M3 OBDII, my Evap System Monitor test is not complete, so I cannot complete a California smog check. I have no Check Engine Light on. All dash lights are off, except ASC-T due to traction control module being disconnected. Gas tank is at 1/2 full.
Where is it defined that three drive cycles must be complete where a drive cycle is defined as 25 miles at 65MPH and then idling the car for 3 minutes prior to engine shutdown?
Also, Secondary Air Pump Monitor test is incomplete. All other 6 tests are complete.
Any help appreciated.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 11-21-2017 at 04:11 PM.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...or-Smog-Check/
Not that anyone wants to have to cheat, but there are certain BMW computer experts who can set readiness permanently on some parameters.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 11-21-2017 at 07:50 PM.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks for the link.
Regarding step 1 (cold start):The engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C/122°F and above 6°C/11°F of the ambient air temperature during startup.
If the car is left to sit over night in a non-heated garage, it is highly likely that the coolant temp will be below 122 deg F. The coolant temp will saturate to the ambient temp. over a long period of time, not be 11 deg F above it. How is one supposed to know if the coolant temp. is 11 deg F above ambient? Does this require a scan tool?
If the ambient temp sensor is malfunctioning, will the ECU skip the test? I'm not sure if my ambient temp sensor works; haven't checked it in a while.
Again, I'm asking about step 1 of the drive cycle since I have cold started my car several times now after letting the car sit over night, yet the Evap Sys. Monitor and Sec. Air Pump Monitors are not checked off.
Thanks.
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Thanks for the link.
Regarding step 1 (cold start):The engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C/122°F and above 6°C/11°F of the ambient air temperature during startup.
If the car is left to sit over night in a non-heated garage, it is highly likely that the coolant temp will be below 122 deg F. The coolant temp will saturate to the ambient temp. over a long period of time, not be 11 deg F above it. How is one supposed to know if the coolant temp. is 11 deg F above ambient? Does this require a scan tool?
If the ambient temp sensor is malfunctioning, will the ECU skip the test? I'm not sure if my ambient temp sensor works; haven't checked it in a while.
Again, I'm asking about step 1 of the drive cycle since I have cold started my car several times now after letting the car sit over night, yet the Evap Sys. Monitor and Sec. Air Pump Monitors are not checked off.
Thanks.
I had heard in the past that CA will overlook one of the readiness monitors if not set, especially the evap one.
I have attached the drive cycle for your info.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Are there any faults in the dme for anything also there are some sib's from BMW regarding monitors that won't set most of the time it's asking the dme programming be updated
Thanks for posting the PDF. I've seen the definition of the drive cycle posted before. I'm surprised that the PDF doesn't reference a Socitey of Automotive Engineers specification that defines the Federal Test Procedure.
I'll attempt to review the E36 Bentley manual and also the Factory Service Manual to diagnose the issue of the Evap Sys. Monitor not being checked.
Yes, I smogged a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT for a friend a few years back. Prior to getting the car smogged, I verified via scan tool that 5 of the 7 readiness monitors were checked off. I then took the car for a smog check and it passed. Rumor has it that as of late, California now requires all readiness monitors to be checked prior to attempting to pass a smog check. I'll call a smog shop close to my apartment and ask if this is true.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 11-25-2017 at 02:05 AM.
I don't know how to check for DME faults. I would have to do some reading in the diagnostic forums.
I wasn't aware that the public had access to the BMW Service Bulletin Database. I've found PDF copies of service bulletins via Google, but this was only after knowing the number of the service bulletin I was looking for. I guess I could start with a Google search of E36 Evap Sys. Monitor Technical Service Bulletin and see what returns.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 11-25-2017 at 02:10 AM.
If you follow this, it will work perfectly for all modules (except ABS/ASC and instrument cluster, because of an advanced interface needed).
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...xperimentation
I don't think this is a flash update problem, because the MS41 in your M3 didn't even get that many updates.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
You're correct. As of May 4th, 2015 California Bureau of Automotive (BAR) permits one readiness monitor not be checked off during a smog check. I discovered this via a google search that yielded a PDF file posted by California BAR.
I drove my 1998 E36 M3 Sedan this past Sunday, 03-DEC-17 and was able to check off the Evap. Sys. Readiness Monitor.
I was able to check off the readiness monitor simply by driving the car. No repairs or maintenance was required. No surprise there, since I didn't have a check engine light to begin with and six of eight readiness monitors were already checked off. The excursion used to check off this readiness monitor is still a mystery to me, but I will note a few things of importance. The Secondary Air Injection Sys. Readiness Monitor remains on, even though I've verified the Secondary Air Pump is running on engine start after the car has sat over night in a 60 deg F garage. I verified the Secondary Air Pump is running on engine start using a stethoscope.
Regarding the excursion I took to clear the Evap. Sys. Monitor: the car sat overnight, with the engine allowed to cool to ambient temp., which was about 60 Deg F this past Sunday in Southern California. I started the car and pulled it out of a garage perched on a steep sloped driveway onto the street. Navigating the steep driveway to make sure I didn't scrape the bottom of the car took me about 5 minutes, so I would say for the first 5 minutes after startup the engine was basically at idle. I then checked the ambient temp. on the OBC at it read something bogus, like -57 deg F. I then drove the car out of the neighborhood and got on a freeway and maintained 60 MPH for 1 hour. Side note, this was a sad hour; I had minivans and Chrysler Concords passing me. During this very sad hour, I checked OBC again like 30 minutes after I first checked it and it registered a temp. that was within 1 deg F of ambient temp. I know what ambient temp. was with moderate accuracy cause I have a weather app on my smartphone. It appears that the OBC ambient temp gauge recalibrated itself while I was driving. The reading displayed during engine start might have been messed up, since I had the OBC and much of the interior out of the car for several months while I was working on it amongst other things. After the hour drive, I then got off the freeway, found a super market parking lot, parked the car and shut off the engine. I then check the status of Evap. System Readiness Monitor, still NOT checked off. I let car sit for about 45 minutes. I started it and let it idle for two minutes and checked the Evap. Sys. Readiness Monitor, still NOT checked off. I was like forget this, I'm driving home. I get on the freeway and am driving for about 15 minutes at 60 MPH and then I hit a traffic jam, so I exited the freeway. I used surface streets to get to get me to an on-ramp back on the freeway, way downstream of the traffic jam. Since I was on surface streets, I was driving at 30 MPH hitting stoplight after stop light for about 30 minutes. I then checked the status of Evap. Sys. Readiness Monitor and it was now CHECKED OFF. Finally. I then made it back onto the freeway and headed home. Parked the car in the garage when I got home. Done.
The Evap. Sys. Readiness Monitor may not have been tested if the ambient temp. measured by the OBC was not within 11 Deg F of engine coolant temp. on engine cold start, which certainly wasn't the case on engine start, since I was getting a bogus temp. reading from my OBC. What throws me for a loop is the fact that I was under the impression that the two cycles of engine coolant temp. being within 11 Deg F of ambient temp. had to be logged before, the readiness monitor could be checked off. This wasn't the case. When I cold started the engine, this condition wasn't met. Then after parking the car after driving for an hour and letting it sit, when I started it up again, the engine coolant was at normal operating temp., so it wouldn't be within 11 deg F of ambient.
I also must note that one of the previous owners of my car deleted the mechanical fan off my S52 motor and most likely installed a E36 Fan Delete Kit, like the one offered for sale by understeer.com. That kit includes a low temp. thermostat and requires engine coolant be replaced with water and Water Wetter, which is some corrosion inhibiting agent that also offers an increased heat transfer coefficient relative to water. You probably know about it if you've ever raced anything at a race track where engine coolant is prohibited. Opinions aside, the result of this is that my S52 motor is a tad cooler then stock and I say this cause the engine coolant temp. needle sits a little to the left of the center of the coolant gauge on the dash when it gets up to normal operating temp.. It might be possible that my motor, the majority of the time isn't hot enough during start up, cold start or otherwise, to the satisfy conditions required to run the readiness test for Evap. Sys. Monitor and Secondary Air Injection Sys.
The E36 Bently manual is silent on troubleshooting emission readiness monitors. I imagine this is intentional, since Bentley's parent company doesn't want to be held responsible for people tampering or disabling their emissions equipment. Think smoke detectors on a passenger airline.
I still haven't checked the BMW Factory Service Manual, also known as BMW TIS to see if there is any info on emissions readiness monitor troubleshooting. It would be interesting to find out if any tips are offered.
I guess at this point in time it doesn't matter, since I only have one readiness monitor that remains not checked off, so I can take the car for a smog check and it should pass. I'll let everyone know how that goes. Based on my schedule, I won't be able to take the car for a smog check until a week from today.
Last edited by Ratinoff; 12-08-2017 at 11:50 PM.
I expect that your ambient temp sensor is failing, or the plug connection is corroded or dirty, because -40 degree readings indicate an open circuit. That open circuit will not be at the OBC, it will be in the sensor wiring, which is a very common trouble, because it's mounted in a really bad spot.
Just for future diagnostics, automotive temperature sensors are "Negative Coefficient Thermistors." This means that if the resistance in the circuit is extremely high, the temperature shows as extremely low. And vice-versa. Therefore, an open circuit has exceptionally high resistance, and shows the lowest temp possible. A shorted circuit will show the highest temp possible for that circuit.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
By the way, you should know that Water Wetter has almost no corrosion inhibiting agents, and you need to change your coolant every year, without fail, or the electrolysis will eat your engine alive. Want to test? You'll find a DIY here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...m-Electrolysis
(Don't get me wrong, I'm a strong believer in Water Wetter, but it has very little protection against electrolysis.)
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks for the suggestion to replace the ambient temp. sensor. Are you aware of the temp sensor providing an erroneous reading after the OBC has been disconnected?
- - - Updated - - -
I had no idea that Water Wetter had no corrosion inhibiting compounds in it. I would imagine that my car is over due for a coolant replacement based on the result of a would be electrolisys test. I haven't had time to conduct the test yet. I'll post results after I do.
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