Going to change oil for 1st time - recommended E32 oil type?

[Cactuar]

Shell Rotella 15w40 here. In our cold climate the weather is warm in the summer but not Texas-hot.

[CamE32]

I’ve been using Shell Rotella T6 (Full synthetic) 15w-40 with a bottle of the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer.

3.5-4k intervals (I could probably push it another 1k miles, but at ~$35 an oil change I’d rather play it safe)

I live in the northeast USA where temps can range from 0 to ~95 Fahrenheit

[vr117]

my son has a 535i we use castrol gtx 10w40 and a mann filter and i use liqui molyMoS2 additive 238k still runs like new My 94 740 I use 20w50 castrol oem filter same additive it gets cold in NY

[letank]

Shell Rotella 15w40 here. In our cold climate the weather is warm in the summer but not Texas-hot.

Same here, in Cal, the indy has used the 15W40 rotella, the oil change place down the street the castrol 20W50. 120K on the engine.

[youngbimmer]

In reality all these 10W40-15W40-20W50 oils should be just fine for the M30 as long as a good interval is being enforced. I don’t think it’s a particularly picky engine, but id stay away from 5W30 or the European blend 0W40

[vr117]

truthfully i use the dino oil and change it frequently i dont know what the previous owner used and im wary of changing to synthetic on such an old car because i dont want to starts springing leaks but thats just me

[CamE32]

IMHO you’d be fine switching to synthetic - but also in my humble opinion, one of the reasons I go with the rotella 15w-40 is because it’s “heavy duty Diesel engine oil” meaning it has more zinc and other additives that probably more-closely match what would’ve been found in the BMW spec oils of the late 80’s early 90’s.

[shogun]

old thread revival
On page 79 of the 1992 E32 owners handbook oil specs of those days are listed http://www.e38.org/e32/E32_1992_Owne..._optimised.pdf of course, these are outdated. Castrol website mentions
750IL E32 5.0 Litre V12 M70 1988-1995 Service Refill Capacity: 7.5* Litres (Includes Oil Filter) https://rego2oil.castrol.com/en_au/a...uto_1988_1995_
CASTROL EDGE 10W-60
CASTROL GTX ULTRACLEAN 15W-40
CASTROL GTX 20W-50

735iL E32 M30 1987-1992 Service Refill Capacity: 5.75* Litres (Includes Oil Filter) https://rego2oil.castrol.com/en_au/a...uto_1987_1992_
CASTROL GTX HIGH MILEAGE 15W-50
CASTROL GTX 20W-50

740IL E32 4.0 Litre V8 M60 1992-1994, Service Refill Capacity: 7.5* Litres (Includes Oil Filter) https://rego2oil.castrol.com/en_au/a...uto_1992_1994_
CASTROL EDGE 10W-60
CASTROL GTX HIGH MILEAGE 15W-50
CASTROL GTX 20W-50

I am still using Chevron 10W40 all year round which I got cheap from COSTCO.
Which oils are you using nowadays and do you change by intervals shown in the check control or by mileage? Of course, it is also climate depending.

Service Interval Light System explained http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/328963/

[RobertRO]

Which oils are you using nowadays and do you change by intervals shown in the check control or by mileage? Of course, it is also climate depending.

In late 2020, I've stated my opinion in another thread; see the link below:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30567289

As an update, I would like to add the following:

1. An oil that has the potential to be a good option for the BMW M30 is the Motul Classic 2100 15W-50.I t is a semi-synthetic, API SH oil. As per the datasheet, it is formulated "with a combination of high-Zinc level (ZDDP content above 1800 ppm) and Molybdenum additives" and "an oxidation stable synthetic base that allows stay-in-grade viscosity, and consistent engine oil pressure and extra high-temperature oil film strength".
Here's a link to Motul US product page:
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/2100-15w50

2. The Web page below provides a link to "Mobil 1 Product Guide", a .pdf file listing the phosphorous levels for all Mobil 1 synthetic motor oils.
It is an interesting read.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...r-classic-cars

[shogun]

Thanks, I merged the 2 oil threads now

[BeeW]

I'm using Liquimoly Molygen 5w-40.
First Blackstone report shows higher than average metals, but it was first oil change after the top-end rebuild (didn't test the 250mi break-in oil).
Should have a change coming up before winter, will report back.

[youngbimmer]

Still using Mobil 1 15W50 full synthetic for its performance across broad temperature. We get freezing cold winters and boiling hot summers, and this oil is among the few grades that does well in both. Plus you can get it from Walmart for about 22-25$ a gallon and cash in on a mobile rebate bringing the cost per gallon to about 16-18$ a gallon. No brainer in my book, my M30B35 has been happy with it for 4 years

[JimmieG]

I recently switched from Driven HR oil to the Driven GT its a Pennsylvania green synth blend. But this is for a built S52 swap has 90k on it now. I like the Joe Gibbs oil.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry meant to add that is in my E34 touring but I just got a E32 735 that is pretty clean from my boss at the shop and we put motul classic 20/50 in it and I may switch to the Driven GT. A lot of people from years back swore by the old kendall and brad penn oil.

- - - Updated - - -

Also its GP not GT my bad.

[JimmieG]

Gp-1

[m60power]

I've used Castrol syntec 0w-40 in all my BMWs, all year around in Pennsylvania and Florida. For as long as I can remember, and up until a few months ago, you could buy 5 quart jugs of this oil in-store at any local Walmart for ~$26, which is an excellent deal. However, it seems that Walmart does not carry it anymore and my at-home stock is pretty much out...

I select the 2nd number of the oil weight (40 in my case) based on what viscosity you want for the engine at operating temp, and find the lowest 'W' winter weight for that oil grade. Even a 0 weight (first number) oil is still thicker viscosity when the engine is at 100F ambient temperature compared to when the engine is up to its ~200F operating temp with the -40 weight (second number) oil; even the best multi-grade oils decrease in absolute viscosity with increasing temperature. So unless you're in a climate where the outside air temp is like 130F, then get the lowest 'W' number available for the operating temp weight that you need. This will improve oil flow before the engine is up to its operating temp.

[Sansouci]

If you don't have service records or haven't pulled the valve covers you won't know the amount of sludge in the engine. I've started using LiquiMoly Engine Flush before the oil change. It's a low viscosity, high detergent additive. You only let the car idle for about 10 minutes but make sure the engine is hot before you add it. The old oil will be extra dirty from the modest scouring action. It cleared up my tapping lifters and I know I have a moderate amount of sludge. I will use it every time in ALL my cars from now on.

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